JasonG

Are there any crevasses on this glacier any more? I've never roped up, no matter the season. I think bare ice is usually the late season hazard, not crevasses.

I think anytime you are on glaciers for a long time, esp. in the afternoons, low top shoes are going to mean wet feet, no matter the construction. Gore tex doesn't really matter when the snow comes over the tops. Gaiters don't seem to work that well,in my experience, but I'm not up on every single style that's out there. On the plus side, low tops seem to dry pretty fast once you get off the snow. The Arc'teryx shoes look interesting with the liner so maybe they're different..... but I'm suspicious. Time will tell.

Actually more July/August than May. But May weather returned today so things may shape up again on the high north facing terrain. Let us know what you find!

I have the Boulder X low top and generally like it. Good value, and very durable. Also eems to do pretty well climbing. I used them for approaches in the Bugs last summer, including hiking over to the Howsers and East Creek from the Kain Hut. I've also used them for getting to the full north ridge of Stuart. In general though, I've found that the Cascades really aren't the place for approach shoes. Too rugged, and too muddy in my opinion. A lightweight real mountaineering boot that climbs well is much better. Like the Trango S or Trango Alp Evo GTX (my current boot). Boots are a pain to carry over, but most routes in the Cascades aren't that long or hard (while the approaches often are). For those really long or hard routes (or short WA pass approaches), I use my Boulder X's. For all the others, I wear real boots.

Thanks, it is on the list!

This is a good time of year to get Constance, the tedious scree is mostly snow covered and the campsites should be snow free. I would recommend the West Arete if you want a bit more spice.

I love the cloud sea, weather on Sunday was a lot better than I expected!

That's a really good idea, you're right that not many people do that link-up. About how long for the RT?

The A7RII.......sigh. Is it as good as I've read, or at least comparable to your 5dmkIII? Excellent report as usual Luke! I love the humor, seriously (esp. the greased calves). I also need to get back to that side of the mountain, thanks for the reminder. Curious why you didn't cut the corner on the trail up Tahoma Creek?

Yeah, Gaia Pro is way slick. I built routes for each day of the Wapta and pre-loaded the map tiles for each route. Worked flawlessly. I didn't even need my spare battery, but our weather was pretty good.

That is a stout effort, thanks for the TR! If you haven't ever used one, I'd highly recommend a topo app (Gaia is great) and a smartphone for whiteout navigation. You can leave the phone off most of the time and power it up when things are dicey. I've been impressed with how well they work and you can get a week out of a battery for most phones in airplane mode.

That chimney is a pain for someone of my skill level.

Thanks for the update on conditions! Throw some snow in those bottles and drink out of the streams, you'll move way quicker when hydrated, with or without sleep (although that isn't a bad time for spring conditions on foot).

South Couloir on S. Early is all melted out. The easy side of Vesper is not slabby. I don't think you have much in the way of glide avalanches to be worried about. But this is internet advice so......

I think the one in telluride looks cooler.

Agreed. It gets tiresome. Of course, they've covered their bases: "Closed near junction with Icicle Road until snow melts and road dries out". Dries out? Do they close the road when it rains in the summer? In other words, when the permit season opens.

The Slot could be good for your purposes if there is enough snow. I'm not familiar with what it is like up there now. You could also go climb Vesper or Sperry. The boot to Headlee pass is pretty steep as is the finish to Sperry. Those are sure to be in pretty good shape. Also, the descent route on Chair might still have enough snow to be entertaining, depending on if the cornice is still there or not.

That looks like the real deal right there. Stout!

I'll second that Josh, you're an inspiring example of how to persevere in the face of pain and setbacks. You are already an Alpinist, certainly in attitude. That is the kind of mental strength and determination that fuels the strongest in the climbing community. I hope to run into you again in the hills, take care!

You can save maps for offline use AlpineK?

Worth the wait, thanks Lucas! I loved the bit about the fight, but you were wise to stay out of it. Lena lake is a haven for derelicts, and they were just speaking each others love language.

Thanks! I appreciate that you guys are working on it. TRs are vital, as you know.

Oh, that makes it all seem so much more reasonable. I had forgotten about that switch, thanks!

They're not completely similar, but the routes on 3 O'clock Rock, Green Giant Buttress, and Exfo Dome in Darrington (Clear Creek) should be in good shape about now. Condorphomine Addiction in Leavenworth Prime Rib on Goat Wall in Mazama

Expect several feet of snow above 4500'