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JasonG

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Everything posted by JasonG

  1. Yes, because I am too. Almost, the guides have the stations set up so that the pulls are really nice (with big stainless rings)....we never had a close call on any rap. It is pretty much alpine cragging now, with the same crowds.
  2. We climbed the Jeff Park on the 4th. Excellent shape, top to bottom! The 'shrund is a bit nasty, but passable on the extreme right side. I would think it would still be in this weekend. Summit is still mostly snow covered, and the Whitewater easy travel. I was impressed, it is a really cool route.
  3. South Howser is set up for a single 70m rope (35m rappels as of last summer). Given how good and well placed the bolted rap stations are, I think a single 70m is the ticket. Gene- It is amazing how different it is in the Bugs (on the trade routes) compared with just 10 years ago. Shiny anchors everywhere!
  4. We climbed it on 7/4 via the Jefferson Park Gl., descended the Whitewater. The mountain is in great shape, though the summit block is mostly snow and ice until you get to the North ridge. Dry scrambling on the east side of the north ridge for the last bit. Jeff Park Gl. was barely passable on the extreme right side of the 'schrund. It may be in for a few weeks, hard to say. Knife edge ridge mostly snow free. Whitewater Gl. well filled in, easy travel. I'll have a TR up with photos probably this weekend or early next week.
  5. Nothing like stepping in a pile of human feces to start your day. Or traveling uphill 3000' vert in a car wash. But the views, oh the views!
  6. True, that history really rounds out the TR. Thanks!
  7. That is a lot of work, not that you need me to tell you that! You certainly seem motivated this year. Dark and Dome are no joke. When you go for Sinister (NF!), might as well go in via Stehekin and tag Agnes and Gunsight as well. And Asa, if only to read the original summit register from 1908.
  8. I obviously need to climb with people that make me much, much angrier. In all seriousness though, that's an impressive climb Blake!
  9. Thanks for the work around! FYI, you might want to unlock the ability to post questions over at that link.... C'mon Bronco, the suspense is killing me. I think my boots are finally dry though.
  10. You've got to be kidding me. This thread is the definition of first world problems. Pretty entertaining though, in a sort of sad way.
  11. JasonG

    Remember?

    Getting old isn't much fun (esp. if you're obese and a smoker), so I think it is natural for folks to pine for the days when they could run and jump. I think a lot of the political posturing is just misplaced angst over the fact that we aren't getting any younger. Well that, and the evaporation of the middle class. Watching my kids makes me realize that I'm older than I think I am. I'm sure I'll be a curmudgeon in their eyes someday. Oh, and go TRUMP!
  12. Ha! I'll let Kit know. My wife still laughs whenever she sees a photo of me in my Sirocco. Although, she does sort of like the fact that I have no chance with any lady climbers I might run into in the hills. The helmet is just too damn light and comfortable for me to care how it looks.
  13. Thanks Mike, I really appreciate the kind words! Glad you enjoy the TRs, will do my best to keep the wife happy and the hall passes flowing like Canadian Hunter around the campfire.
  14. Damn Darin, I love those photos (some are downright stunning) and thanks for the heads up on Primus. I've wondered about that route. I forget, did you get the RX100?
  15. Witness the fitness! I agree, that's a lot of terrain in two days. I've been meaning to get back to Anderson after hiking up to the glacier back in the 90's. Thanks for the report!
  16. Do you notice any color change on the side exposed to the sun? If not, I wouldn't worry about using it. If so, retire. But, what do I know? That's just my gut instinct, it's not like I have anything to back it up.
  17. Stay at the Castle Mtn. hut and climb Brewer's Buttress. Highly recommended exposed limestone route. Or, climb the Grand Sentinel (also great): http://www.summitpost.org/grand-sentinel/155304 But maybe you should just bail out of the Rockies ASAP and climb at Roger's pass? (if the weather is good, and there aren't bear closures). So many uber classic moderate routes at the pass. And good rock, which is in short supply in the alpine of the Rockies. You'll love it up there (if you get the weather)!
  18. Yep, that's it. As Rad said, follow the Terror Basin climber's path (very good tread) that leaves the old road in the Goodell Creek valley. Where the climber's path drops drops over a saddle (6240+) sidehill directly north to a pass (~6600+). Drop down and skier's right to gain a rib that will take you to Azure's outlet. Shouldn't take more than 8 hours from the road unless you are packing heavy. I'm curious now, are there fish in it? If this is the Jason I think it is, give me a call!
  19. Thanks guys! I know Darin, they are amazing. Kit (guy in the pic, and long time USFS employee) thought that those yellow cedars may be contenders for the oldest trees on the MBSNF. Given the altitude, species, and size, he thought they were both easily more than 1000 years old, maybe even approaching 1500-1800 for the scraggly one.
  20. JasonG

    why?

    This was the economy option for dorm space at Trump University.
  21. JasonG

    why?

    Because REI buyers never leave the office.
  22. Yep, sure does. That's a tough call then. Maybe a thinner sock and lower profile footbeds will make the Alps comfy out of the box? They seem like a fantastic boot. I am impressed with the re-design. One tip I've found is to not lace the boots too tight. There isn't a lot of padding, esp. around the ankle. Even without the boots cranked down, my feet don't seem to slide around.
  23. Probably not a bad idea to wear your helmet when traveling across boulder fields off trail, though I had never really considered that before this accident. I've certainly taken a tumble in this type of terrain before, but luckily haven't been seriously hurt. I can see how it would happen though. Hoping for a speedy recovery!
  24. Trip: Cinderella - East Buttress Date: 6/4/2016 Trip Report: Both Curt and Darin have written up TRs on the mythical East Buttress of Cinderella with a lot of swanky beta, so I'll spare you a retelling. Suffice to say that the Green Creek valley is a pretty special place, even for people used to such places. This was my third trip in there and I think I may even be more taken with the beauty, solitude, flora, and interesting geology than I was several years ago on my first visit. The climbing is pretty darn good too! This time we found the excellent climber's path that is now established into the upper valley and it made a world of difference. The easy(ish) travel means you can hike in after work (2- 3 hours) to the excellent camps and be ready to tackle your choice of high quality routes early the next morning. For dads like myself, this area has quite the remote feel without the time commitment of getting deeper into the range. The views alone are worth the price of admission. The East Buttress of Cinderella isn't the best route in the area, but it is, long, scenic, and worth doing (IMO). As you can read in Darin's report, a soloist can race up it in a couple hours, but it was a pretty full day for us, even with a bivy in Green Creek. Expect climbing to mid-fifth or so and some looseness (for this area, not bad for the Cascades in general). I realize I'm talking up the area a bit, but I think it could use a bit more love, if only to keep the climber's path established. Although, Blake's new book features Green Creek, so maybe you'd better get in there while it is still quiet! Gear Notes: Medium rack to 2", with emphasis on the smallest cams. 60m half rope works well. Helmet! Rock shoes are nice.... Approach Notes: Bridge still out over Middle Fork. Log upstream. There is a VERY NICE climber's path that leaves the elbow lake trail at the end of the long traverse just before the major switchbacking commences. Look for obvious tread traversing steep slope below the trail. Easy to follow all the way to treeline. Good camps below Green Creek arete, on other side of the valley near the major creek junction.
  25. I think it is time for people to advocate (to their electeds) on behalf of the USFS to re-establish those hundreds of miles of trails that have been neglected or abandoned for decades. Sure seems like hiking is getting popular enough for voices to be heard. Spreading out the use make a difference, though perhaps not on the dog front. I agree that Fido should be left at home, though I'm sure some of you will say I'm a terrible person. That's OK, I know.
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