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Nick Sweeney

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About Nick Sweeney

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    stranger
  • Birthday 04/08/1993

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  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  1. Wow. Nice send! Thanks for the great blog post too.
  2. Thanks for posting, I appreciated that you reflected on your decision making in the blog post. Rad photos too!
  3. Nice work! That's an incredible looking route.
  4. [TR] Pickets - Northern Pickets Traverse 8/7/2017

    So impressed by this. Nice work!
  5. [TR] Bugaboo Spire - Northeast Ridge 7/31/2017

    Chuck, thanks for the compliments. It's pretty hard to take a bad picture up there! In regard to the cave, we only had bad options to choose from. Here's a little more detail: I had just made the first rappel off of the North summit and was scrambling a somewhat exposed ridge to find the next set of bolts. I approached the gendarme, and noted that the entire rock pinnacle was buzzing. Not just the bolts, but the gendarme itself! My partner began screaming has he was rappelling - he was receiving shocks while he descended. He later said it felt like bees stinging him. I ran back up the ridge and gave him a fireman's belay while telling him to keep rappelling as calmly as I could. By the time he got off rappel, our ice axes were buzzing, the wind gusts had reached 60mph, and things were looking pretty grim. Our choices were to continue descending, stay where we were on the exposed ridge, or scramble up to an alcove. I was not willing to make the next rappel off of the Gendarme AKA lightning rod, especially considering how loudly it was buzzing. Staying where we were wasn't especially attractive since it was starting to rain - if I was going to die, I didn't want to be cold while it happened. We scrambled into the alcove where we were sheltered from precipitation (it was hailing now), somewhat out of the wind, and clipped into a good anchor. Once we got all situated in our perch, the storm cleared and we started rapping again. In retrospect, the ridge may have been safer, with both the gendarme and the summit being higher than I was. But in the moment, it felt like a pretty scary place to be!
  6. [TR] Bugaboo Spire - Northeast Ridge 7/31/2017

    No problem my man! You had an awesome trip, I am really jealous you guys knocked off the Snowpatch Route. Let me know if you want to do some climbing sometime.
  7. Trip: Pigeon Spire - West Ridge Date: 7/29/2017 Trip Report: The best 5.4 in the world was pretty damn good. Full TR: Spokalpine Gear Notes: Skip the climbing shoes, just use approach shoes! Approach Notes: Follow the cattle trail from Applebee.
  8. [TR] Bugaboo Spire - Northeast Ridge 7/31/2017

    That's what I thought - very poor form, especially on such a popular route, and especially with other teams standing there, ready to climb. Thankfully the team of 4 split into two teams after the first pitch.
  9. Trip: Bugaboo Spire - Northeast Ridge Date: 7/31/2017 Trip Report: This was a big aventure climb that involved a close call with lightning and a miserable shiver bivy. You can read the full report at Spokalpine.com Gear Notes: An extra Gu for the morning Approach Notes: Short from Applebee
  10. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 7/8/2017

    Hey Daphne, I would recommend bringing ice axes and crampons right now. We got away without crampons, but if the snow was much harder we would have been forced to bail. We used approach shoes, which should be fine for you. Boots are unnecessary unless you want to keep your feet dry on the descent. Have an awesome time!
  11. Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete Date: 7/8/2017 Trip Report: John and I climbed Dragontail's Serpentine Arete in 24 hours car to car on July 8th. We should have brought crampons, which would have made things safer and saved time. I expected the descent to take 4 hours from the summit to the car, based on my experiences on this peak in early Spring conditions. It actually took us 8 hours! A painful learning experience. You can see my full trip report and photos on my site: Spokalpine
  12. [TR] Rainier - Ptarmigan Ridge 6/29/2017

    Awesome climb, I'd like to tick that one some day soon!
  13. Trip: Black Peak - Northeast Ridge Date: 6/17/2017 Trip Report: Cornices were a problem on the approach and on route. Be ready for a lot of loose rock! Full trip report on my blog: Spokalpine
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