JasonG

No open crevasses perhaps. They're most certainly there, and conditions will be changing week to week throughout the spring. e.g.: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1148277/Re_Mt_Hood#Post1148277

I'm as big a Luddite as anyone, but I have to say that a smartphone app like Avenza or Gaia is the way to go. My S5 is waterproof so I just keep it in my pocket or pack in airplane mode and I can easily get a week out of it (including playing music at night). I tend to only turn it on when the weather is bad, however. Just got back from the Rockies on a big ski traverse and it worked like magic. Of course, your device can always crap out (or you can drop it), but I'm willing to take that chance. Plus, you always have Halen or Ozzy at the ready. This is key.

My personal favorite of the early TRs from Marc: Two White Boys on a Big White Hill Some of the spray is hilarious given what has transpired in the intervening years. Especially that SummitchaserCJB. In case you were wondering, here's CJB's list for 2016 : Since lists are fun, i'll do a top 5 of real, serious objectives from now until 2016. 1. Dragontail Triple C 2. Mt Stuart Sherpa Route solo. 3. Mt Colchuck 4. Prussic in winter. 5. Ski a technical line off a peak 6. Do a link up of three peaks (bivy allowed) 7. Do Stuart Glacier Couloir I'll leave it at that. The list may contract or expand. I'll keep you updated with videos and hopefully lots of photos. Bye for now.

Wait, he just started climbing in 2008??!! Marc's first TR on this site: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=790223 Just a wee bit of progress since then.

Great, thanks Jon!

Youth!

Wow. Seth, those are some incredible adventures on your Flickr page! Have you written up any of those anywhere? I would love to read some more, though the images are incredible. Taking an FX camera and lenses into those locations is no small feat.

Most years, by mid-July it will be snow free with the possible exception of the exit gully (this isn't a problem as you can work around the snow patches). A lot depends on the spring weather, but I would say you could plan on it being in fairly good shape. Have fun, it is a real classic.

Here is the photo from the mthorman's TR:

Can you fill us in on what is going on with the TR problems people are having? I'm sure you're working on a fix, just curious. Thanks for the thankless work you guys do behind the scenes, much appreciated!

Typically when you descend off the east side of Forbidden you use what is called the "East Ledges". Five 25-30m raps off the summit straight fall line, then scramble along nearly level until you can climb back up to the notch that starts the Direct East Ridge route. Warning: You must be comfortable traveling across loose, exposed, 3rd and 4th class terrain without much in the way of protection (best to do unroped). A slip here would most likely be fatal. For folks used to such things, the East Ledges aren't terrible, but they demand respect. This is why most descend the West Ridge.

No, I think the site is having issues.

The chimneys will be very snowy, wet, and generally unpleasant for climbing in April (unless it is cold). This is a route typically done once they melt out, usually sometime in June or July. If you do decide to go in April, bring pickets. But maybe you are looking to ski the chimneys?

Nice work Luke!! Looks like you made quick work of the whole thing, and no training. That sounds almost fun. Too bad that the site is having issues, seems to be a thing. Jon?

I like the hardest peak by easiest route debate, its a good one. My two cents having climbed the following (but not Lincoln, yet): J'Berg, N & S Hozomeen, Nooksack Tower, Burgundy, Inspiration, Goode, All the Index Peaks, Agnes, Both Main Gunsights, etc..... I think Nooksack Tower is hands down the mountain that I was the happiest to get off of. I'm surprised nobody mentioned Middle Index. That is a tough one to get, but quite enjoyable in comparison to Nooksack Tower. I found the climbing on the Index traverse fun and varied. A great thread, glad to give it a bump

The weather that came in Saturday night was well-forecasted. I would agree with Peter. Anyone who knows Rainier knows you don't want to be on the upper mountain when a front goes through, especially this time of year. So many of the Rainier accidents could have been prevented with just a simple check of the forecast. Your margin of safety is nil during a storm on the upper mountain. If anything goes wrong you're dead, and you may still be dead if nothing goes wrong. Why stack the deck against you and your partners? I know it is bad form to comment on a death so soon after the fact, but I get tired of history repeating itself.

That's quite the effort! Thanks for the beta, I think I'll wait to get a bit closer to Cold Springs.

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I thought it was pretty fun. But it was 15 years ago and my memory is hazy. Can't beat the access. Of course, I think it melts out pretty quickly in the spring.

I'm with you Pete.

I like the tire spike idea! Really easy to pop those up after a certain time, swing the uphill side of the gate closed and go home for the night.

You're preaching to the choir Gene, I usually try pretty hard to keep it civil both on and off line. But, I certainly understand how others may not feel so inclined when reading some of Bob's comments over the years. Even so, I'll miss the SOB. He kept things interesting.

People are hating on Bob too much? Didn't he sling more than his fair share of hate around these parts? You tend to reap what you sow.....

The thing I don't understand is that the park has staff based in Longmire 24/7 (or am I wrong here?). Why not close the gate a couple hours after dark and have anyone who gets locked in to grab someone from the front desk of the hotel? That would solve 90% of the issues, foster good will among recreationalists, and reduce the flak that the officers get on a weekly basis. Loren- have you tried to reason with the higher ups in your contacts with them (I would assume so)? What was their response?

Impressive. That looks like a lot of work!