JasonG

Typically when you descend off the east side of Forbidden you use what is called the "East Ledges". Five 25-30m raps off the summit straight fall line, then scramble along nearly level until you can climb back up to the notch that starts the Direct East Ridge route. Warning: You must be comfortable traveling across loose, exposed, 3rd and 4th class terrain without much in the way of protection (best to do unroped). A slip here would most likely be fatal. For folks used to such things, the East Ledges aren't terrible, but they demand respect. This is why most descend the West Ridge.

No, I think the site is having issues.

The chimneys will be very snowy, wet, and generally unpleasant for climbing in April (unless it is cold). This is a route typically done once they melt out, usually sometime in June or July. If you do decide to go in April, bring pickets. But maybe you are looking to ski the chimneys?

Nice work Luke!! Looks like you made quick work of the whole thing, and no training. That sounds almost fun. Too bad that the site is having issues, seems to be a thing. Jon?

I like the hardest peak by easiest route debate, its a good one. My two cents having climbed the following (but not Lincoln, yet): J'Berg, N & S Hozomeen, Nooksack Tower, Burgundy, Inspiration, Goode, All the Index Peaks, Agnes, Both Main Gunsights, etc..... I think Nooksack Tower is hands down the mountain that I was the happiest to get off of. I'm surprised nobody mentioned Middle Index. That is a tough one to get, but quite enjoyable in comparison to Nooksack Tower. I found the climbing on the Index traverse fun and varied. A great thread, glad to give it a bump

The weather that came in Saturday night was well-forecasted. I would agree with Peter. Anyone who knows Rainier knows you don't want to be on the upper mountain when a front goes through, especially this time of year. So many of the Rainier accidents could have been prevented with just a simple check of the forecast. Your margin of safety is nil during a storm on the upper mountain. If anything goes wrong you're dead, and you may still be dead if nothing goes wrong. Why stack the deck against you and your partners? I know it is bad form to comment on a death so soon after the fact, but I get tired of history repeating itself.

That's quite the effort! Thanks for the beta, I think I'll wait to get a bit closer to Cold Springs.

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I thought it was pretty fun. But it was 15 years ago and my memory is hazy. Can't beat the access. Of course, I think it melts out pretty quickly in the spring.

I'm with you Pete.

I like the tire spike idea! Really easy to pop those up after a certain time, swing the uphill side of the gate closed and go home for the night.

You're preaching to the choir Gene, I usually try pretty hard to keep it civil both on and off line. But, I certainly understand how others may not feel so inclined when reading some of Bob's comments over the years. Even so, I'll miss the SOB. He kept things interesting.

People are hating on Bob too much? Didn't he sling more than his fair share of hate around these parts? You tend to reap what you sow.....

The thing I don't understand is that the park has staff based in Longmire 24/7 (or am I wrong here?). Why not close the gate a couple hours after dark and have anyone who gets locked in to grab someone from the front desk of the hotel? That would solve 90% of the issues, foster good will among recreationalists, and reduce the flak that the officers get on a weekly basis. Loren- have you tried to reason with the higher ups in your contacts with them (I would assume so)? What was their response?

Impressive. That looks like a lot of work!

2/24/2017 at 4:52pm

All I get are ads for Valhalla this and Valhalla that. I never knew there was a Valhalla anti-itch cream.

Typically ads are targeted based on your web history......

I wish I could say I was surprised. Sorry to hear about the end of your day Luke.

You'll love Olympus, if you get the weather. It's Classic with a capital C.

I've never climbed in the Waddington Range, but it is high on my list. Get the excellent guide by Don Serl and pick something that seems challenging. You won't be disappointed.

The glaciers in the Bugs are fairly tame, but the climbing can be remarkably similar to Patagonia in early season (May/June). For glaciated approaches to alpine rock routes, Marble Creek Cirque in NCNP is a good bet (July). Early Morning Spire, the West Face of Dorado Needle, and the west arete of Eldorado are all good climbs, though probably much easier and shorter than what you have in mind in Patagonia. For the real deal, you might want to check out the Waddington Range. After early summer in the Bugs and Cascades, you would be ready to see how it goes in a much bigger range that will throw more challenge your way. If all goes well, Patagonia beckons the following fall/winter. To be honest though, I think most would find trekking (and scrambling easy peaks) down around Chalten and Torres del Paine just fine if the climbing in Patagonia is more exciting than you would like. I know I didn't climb a single pitch and had a grand time. There is now lots of sport climbing and bouldering down there if the alpine is out of condition or too daunting.

The name just gets more and more fitting.

And after Matlock

Well.......I think our work here is done. It's not often that a thread of such caliber ends so appropriately. Explorer- Thanks for becoming a part of cc.com history, and don't be a stranger.