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Everything posted by JasonG
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[TR] North Cascades - Ptarmigan Traverse Attempt 8/19/2015
JasonG replied to Schaef's topic in North Cascades
In a normal year, the PT is pretty boney come August. While things are a lot worse than normal for the date, it isn't like it wasn't passable earlier in the season. -
[TR] Eldorado Peak - Inspiration Glacier 8/16/2015
JasonG replied to montynet's topic in North Cascades
Wind direction is key. The Newhalem fire blew up today so it might not be so clear right now. -
No, at least what I hear (and personally think) is that we are opposed to giving more land to NOCA to manage. In my view, the USFS land in question is already adequately protected under the NW forest plan (or wilderness protections if any of those lands are included in the ALPS proposal). If the NWFP is amended significantly to undermine that protection, then I will re-evaluate. Until then, I will oppose the park expansion, for the many reasons outlined above.
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Bold indeed - the Ensakwatch Enchainment
JasonG replied to maurop's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Weird. I never have had an issue uploading with Firefox. I always dumb the photos down though so maybe that is the difference? -
Bring steel crampons and some patience. It was in shockingly bare shape over a month ago. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1141133
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http://www.bellinghamherald.com/news/local/article30756399.html Condolences to the friends and family of Mr. Moldver. He sounded like a good man.
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Pardon me, "Iron Intestines" Trent.
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No flowing water on the Cascadian, or west ridge, but there is a bit of snow below the true and false summits that you could melt. At least I think it should still be there.
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Quite smokey up the Cascade River yesterday, but it is raining today so who knows what it will be like in a couple weeks. Wind direction will be key.
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I thought there was still a fire burning up in Thunder Creek? Where's the Teton's TR?
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Tell me about it. This was my worst experience with giardia. I'm going to be more consistent with treating water, at least for a few years. Glad you guys liked the photo, it was a pretty amazing sunset- i.e., not hard to take a nice picture of.
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Heard thru the upriver grapevine about a party inflicted rockfall fatality yesterday on Fisher. Anyone have more details? Sounds terrible, condolences to all parties involved.
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One of the best TRs of the summer! Well done boys.
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Trip: Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge Date: 7/19/2015 Trip Report: Ten years after I climbed the upper north ridge and gendarme I returned to give the whole shebang a go with Trent, my usual rope gun. There is plenty of beta for the CNR aspirant so I won't bore you with the excruciating detail. Since we aren't young or particularly fast, we opted for the slow and steady plan from the Esmeralda road end- TH bivy, approach and climb lower NR to notch on day 1, up over and out on day 2. This meant that both days were around 11-12 hours, providing ample time to rest and enjoy the surroundings (or pant and grunt up the 5.9 pitches in my case). If you have the Kearney guide, we opted for the death pitch option on the lower ridge and found it to be clean, well-protected, strenuous lie-backing. We climbed Sunday-Monday and had the whole mountain to ourselves, which was a pleasant change of pace from the usual Stuart weekend gong show. The only thing I would add is that you might want to treat your water near the base of the NR or when you are melting snow at the notch. I didn't and came down with Giardia a couple weeks later when I was in the Bugaboos (though iron gut Trent did not). Not recommended. Really though, the trip was an excuse to try out my new Canon S120. It is nice to finally be able to shoot RAW with a small camera that fits on my pack strap. Trent Photo: Trent Photo: Cascadian Couloir Dirt Lines Gear Notes: No crampons or axe needed. Treat your water. Approach Notes: Goat pass. There was snow about a rope length below the notch for melting.
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Access fund calls NOCA's bolting policy "the ugly"
JasonG replied to Greg_Malloure's topic in Access Issues
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, unfortunately. The NPS is a knockout in their own estimation. They're not my type though. -
[TR] SOUTHERN PICKETS - Vacation of Inspiration and Terror 7/18/2015
JasonG replied to YocumRidge's topic in North Cascades
I didn't mean that it took you too long, just that I am impressed that you didn't bail and stayed in there for TEN DAYS. Stout! -
[TR] SOUTHERN PICKETS - Vacation of Inspiration and Terror 7/18/2015
JasonG replied to YocumRidge's topic in North Cascades
Brings back memories that is for sure, thanks! 10 days??!! -
Access fund calls NOCA's bolting policy "the ugly"
JasonG replied to Greg_Malloure's topic in North Cascades
Disappointing, but not surprising. NOCA's zealotry continues. Having just come back from the Bugs, with their thoughtfully placed bolted rap routes (and minimal tat), I've realized just how ridiculous bolting bans are. Why not just ban climbing? Or how about banning all those hikers and their trails? Maybe we should all just stay out of the hills so we don't "damage" the mountains. -
I think those pitches were on the south side of the west ridge, but then again I can make 5.6 look like 5.9!