JasonG

Good point on the summit blocks of the two mountains. But Black can have some steeper snow to deal with lower down, depending on the snow year. I guess I figured the OP knew his way around 4th class rock. Sahale isn't too bad to downclimb.... if you don't fall. I guess I should say the same for Corteo. A slip would be very bad.

Any snow left on Black or Sahale in late August or early September will be hard and not easy for someone without snow experience to travel across. You will need ice axe and crampons and know how to use them. You might be able to avoid the snow on Black, but not on Sahale. Roping up on either peak usually isn't necessary for those that are comfortable scrambling exposed 3rd or 4th class rock, but steep snow is no joke if you aren't familiar. I would stay away from anything with snow, unless it is very low angle. A slip usually ends very badly if you don't know how to self arrest. Thanks for the offer Rob, looks like some cool scrambling down there!

That is a good time to do some scrambling for sure. West Ridge of Columbia with a camp at Twin lakes would be a good two day adventure. Crater would be another with a camp at Crater Lake. Thornton Peak is a good 1-2 day scramble, but permits can be hard to come by. Corteo, Tomyhoi, West Ridge of North Twin, Del Campo, Vesper, and Sperry would be good one day options. None will have much snow to contend with at that time of year. You can buy copies of the Green and Red Beckey guides to provide info, or search the web for TRs.

I haven't seen @mattp around in awhile but maybe he has some good legal perspective on that? I know he has worked with non-profits and is an attorney. Glad to hear of this desire to keep this going long term!

Well, @John_Scurlock told me to steer clear of books but maybe I might try next November? I'll have to look into what it would cost and what I would have to charge to sell a few copies. Maybe @olyclimber can create a poll to see how many copies I could expect to sell? I do know that I would have limited appeal outside of the North Cascades. Thanks for the encouragement @sepultura and @emilio taiveaho pelaez! Choss-land is calling you both!

There are plenty of good practice slopes up by Heather Meadows (upper Baker ski area lot). You may wait for snow to consolidate though, May is often a good month to dust off the snow skills before alpine climbing season. Once they start clearing the road to Artist Point, the snow walls are good practice "crevasses" too. But there are steep drops off the roadway that can also work.

oh yeah @JBo6, you'll love it! Post a TR please! I had to bail on my hut trip this year due to being sick.....

That looks terrifying, well done in keeping it somewhat safe and sane. What a place, I had never even heard of it!

Well, from the article I read about this, I think the folks up there unfurling the flag were already fired?

Me on the summit of Sahale, back when I had hair, September 1995. Cotton jeans and flannel!

This is really inspiring @Fairweather, please post some TRs! I am only about halfway to that climbing milestone. My first technical summits were about 30 years ago. I'll try and dig up a cotton and denim photo of me from Sahale in the mid 90s....

Another plug for Dylan at Mount Vernon gear repair.... just had a jacket and pack repaired within 2 days.....Back to chossing without delay!

The void at the center of the human condition will never be filled with climbing (at least it wasn't for me), but it is a fun hobby. Glad you survived unscathed to continue your quest! The Polish route has always looked burly, and this TR confirms that it isn't to be taken lightly...

It is shocking to see just how much so.....I was last on Frostbite Ridge in high summer of 2003 (August?) and it was completely snow covered, top to bottom. We only had a tiny bit of ice climbing out of the crater.

I feel like yes? But I know Steve Swenson would disagree.

Now that is what I call adult entertainment!

Glad I could give you hope for when you reach your mature mountaineer phase @Alisse!

The East ridge is classic! Though more in a scrambley than hard climbing way. Still, I thought it was highly recommended....but the South Face wasn't super fun to descend (still the best way down probably in summer though).

There aren't enough USFS LEOs to deal with keeping the crush of humanity out of our public lands for the next 4 years. I suspect that they won't like how DC comes down on this.

Here you go @korengalois: JasonG portfolio images I probably need to update these galleries....been a couple years since I added some images to them. But....you get the idea - I like hauling a boat anchor around the mountains.

Awesome @3rdclassmaster, post up your adventures when you do make it back this way!

Happy to sell images to whomever for a small amount above my cost. I have never even really sold one so I can't get greedy! And let me know when it is time to do another auction to keep the lights on around here.... And how much $$ do you need to run some of these off @olyclimber? I'd kick in a few dollars.

Happy to provide whatever image for a sticker!

A good example of how each year is it's own animal @bigeo, thanks. June used to be the time for a lot of snow stuff in the Cascades but it tends to be earlier these days....unless it's not!

That is a pretty sweet ride .... for Kiba!