JasonG

Wow, that is strange. I have to think some sort of AI scrubbing going on?

Another 2 weeks and there would be zero bugs. Bugs die fast in the far north as summer ends in late August. I think that might not have been so aytpical for mid August.

It is a little known fact that Darin develops routes so that he doesn't have to see other people when climbing high quality rock

Wow, quite the adventure!! Did you just plunge in and cross with your footwear or did you make changes for each crossing?

Yeah @Lucas Ng, glad I could inspire the trip! That is one of my favorite places in all of the cascades, so great that you got there! And thanks for the heads up that the trail has been improved....just might need to make another trip in there for Old Guard and the German Helmet.

Trip: High point of The Needles (AKA Big Methow Needle) plus the East Peak - Standard Trip Date: 08/02/2025 Trip Report: It seems to be that after 20 years you can repeat a peak and it is almost like you've never climbed it before. Almost. The memory of the character building approach in soft snow wasn't entirely forgotten when @Trent suggested the high point of the Needles (Top 200!) on a Saturday a few weeks back. I had last been up that way 23 years before with my friend Dennis and we had gone straight up from the highway/campground, traversing endless ribs and isothermic mush for a few short 5th class pitches. BUT, Steve had found a better way! Or, so I sincerely hoped, and so I found myself gearing up on the shoulder of 20 again, peering into the brush and looking for the faint hint of a trail @Eric Gilbertson had mentioned was in there. After some minimal thrashing indeed a halfway decent trail emerged, though downed logs were beginning to reclaim it slowly but surely. Things were looking better than I remembered and we continued up. Thankfully the valley thrashing is relatively short lived and the ascent up an open forest rib soon lifts one to views and cooling breezes. A couple hours slogging brought our first views of the Methow Needle, which was more impressive than I remembered. The views to Tower and Golden Horn were also much better than I remembered: Soon we were at the base of the climbing, racking up for 3 pitches of 4th/mid fifth class: @Trent took the sharp end first and launched up on the surprisingly steep first pitch, which was solid, if somewhat kitty litterish: A couple more rambly pitches brought to the lonesome summit, which really hasn't gotten much more popular since the register was placed in 1968. It was a much more entertaining read than most, and I especially enjoyed the firsthand accounts of FA by Pete Doorish and his partners many moons ago: We were definitely not worthy, but we were there, on the summit nonetheless: And the views, of course, were better than I remembered. Buckner, Boston, Sahale, Tower, Eldorado, Mesahchie, Katsuk, Kimtah (L-R): When I had last climbed it via the not recommended approach in less than ideal snow conditions, I was a young man and was still thoroughly whupped by the end of the day after climbing only Big Methow Needle. This time, we were older and wiser and had some extra energy to head over to the East Peak of the Needles which afforded a grand view of the North side of The Needles, along with many ladybugs (visble at black specs in the photo of @Trent below): But, pleasant as it was up there, we couldn't stay forever and reluctantly had to descend back to the brush and blowdown to battle the masses back west across the pass. Still, a parting view of Big Methow Needle as we dropped to treeline was a good reminder that we have an exceptional backyard here in the North Cascades: Gear Notes: Light Rock rack to 2", 60m rope, helmet Approach Notes: Stay in the valley and find an old trail up Pine Creek on south side. Where it crosses to north side of creek follow for a bit longer into timber until it peters out and you head up via open forest to treeline and the peak.

Quite the effort @Lucas Ng! A lot of summits for a week human powered, those are all way back in there. So let me get this straight....somebody cut through all the avy debris on the Bacehlor creek trail?! That was pretty horrific just a few years ago (2022) when I last came through. I didn't think anyone would put in the effort to clear it ever since the USFS gave up decades ago.

Little J-Berg! Thanks to @John_Roper, @rat, and @lunger for getting me to peruse some images and revive this thread!

paging @dberdinka....

Also, I want the record to show that somehow when I was trying to edit the tags I accidentally rated this thread one star and I can't change it to 5! So, sorry @rat and @lunger if I'm ruining your Zagat FA rating.

And so it shall be in the Griffith house! Thanks for that bit of history @John_Roper, always fun to hear new details for the familiar vistas in our backyard.

Boom! Just look at that proud face! (at least I hope that is your buttress on the skyline)

My guess is downclimbing from the WR Terror col in early July might be the ticket.

I could be convinced to go in there and check it out. It has been long enough since I approached the north side of the Southern Pickets, obviously!

Well done getting all that done solo, and safely, in a few days!

Wait. There were THREE parties on the West Arete of Eldorado in one day??! I would be surprised if it got climbed 3 times in one year. Interesting. That is a crazy fast amount of climbing in a few days!

Yikes! Well done keeping things from going bad, and thanks for the honesty. Beautiful country to be in, if nothing else.

So great that you could check in @Martin Volken, this is the kind of first hand info and history that makes keeping the lights on around here worth it! Please dig around the site and add some more history and beta!

Great TR Nick! I especially liked the asides about the first ascensionists. I think you captured the yin and yang of that route perfectly. What a line though....

@Phil K and Rod above the snow arete 2006 (check out the glacial differences from the photos above): Looking down from near the top onto the glacier: Strong work @JonParker!!

Good to see folks getting on this one! If you want to see photos and a description of the descent down the South Face, here is a TR from way back with my friend TJ (RIP) and @therunningdog.

Let's do it @geosean!

Keep the MRNP minor peak TRs coming @Fairweather! Another good looking one for me to put on the list....so many great options that aren't THE Mountain.

uh. DAMN. You basically compressed most of my north cascades 25 year career into one trip. I should take up knitting.

Trip: Markhor and Needle Peak - Traverse Trip Date: 07/07/2025 Trip Report: I am too behind on everything right now to write much, but I figured some of you may be interested in a lesser known romp across the valley from Yak Peak off the Coquihalla. It is quite the scenic and reasonable outing for the mature mountaineer, but I think most would enjoy the lovely ridgeline between Markhor and Needle Peaks. It starts with a steep grunt up the climber's trail up Markhor, with expanding views of Yak Peak across the way: Within an hour or two, the summit of Markhor comes into view, with nothing more challenging than some exposed class 3 standing between the car and the summit: The view expand greatly, with the shapely Needle peak beckoning across a kilometer (we're in Canada, eh) or two of ridgeline: The bugs were a bit on the bad side so I didn't waste much time picking my way down Markhor to a rap station and fixed line which greatly aided the descent down a slabby section. I wrapped a prusik around the thin line which was a nice hand hold as I slid it down and scrambled lower. Here's looking up at the slabby bit below the summit of Markhor after clearing it: And then the really good stuff lay ahead. Always scenic, often exposed, sometimes a bit on the kitty litter side, it was nonetheless "distinctly alpine and a pure joy" to quote Fred from some peak or other in the North Cascades (Logan?). It was usually pretty easy, although a few sections edged into exposed 4th class where a fall would end very badly: I caught a glimpse of another couple behind me as I scrambled along: And soon was on the summit of Needle, alone with the festive summit register: The bugs here were terrible as well so I didn't stay long, mosying down the well trod Needle Peak trail that was very scenic the entire way. Yak Peak on the left and Markhor on the right: Partway down there was a nice viewpoint where I could take in the entirety of the Markhor to Needle ridge traverse: And soon was spit out at the well marked Needle Peak trailhead: I think it took me about 5-6 hours for the loop, including stops, which was a bit longer than the drive, thankfully. The only bummer is that it isn't longer! Gear Notes: helmet and approach shoes. Brought a 30m RAD line to rap but fixed line in place on slab downclimb Approach Notes: Park at Needle Peak Trailhead and find flagged route up Markhor to the east, starting in pipeline swath. Descend well marked Needle Peak trail after traverse