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needtoclimb last won the day on May 22

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About needtoclimb


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    Seattle, WA
  1. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 06/15/2019

    Nice work ignoring the social media group-think and heading up to figure it out.
  2. Kautz or Adams Glacier mid-week

    No one wants to climb one of the "50 Classic Climbs of the Southern Cascades"? I'll even buy you a beer at the end.
  3. Looking for a partner or two for Kautz or Adams Glacier either June 18-20 or June 25-27. Those are hard dates for me, as my wife works Mondays and Fridays and I have other commitments on the weekends. I am 45 years old, been climbing in the Cascades for 15 years. I move slower than I used to, so if you are 25 years old, just expect to walk a little slower than you are used to. Have done Emmons, Gib Ledges, ID and DC routes. Give me a shout if you want to go so we can talk logistics and plans. 425-802-3100
  4. [TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 6/3/19

    Here is a picture of June 14th, 2010. What a difference in snow levels. Below is the ice stop. It looks like the ice step has lost about five feet of ice. That right variation didn't exist nine years ago.
  5. Yak peak conditions

    Just drove by it on Monday. Some snow on the south face with water streaks. Not much, but enough to be noticeable while driving by at 60 mph (or is that 110 kph?) Not much snow up on top either. I bet a few more days of sunshine will dry out the south face.
  6. Alpine Dads wanted

    I just made a google doc sheet with all names and e-mails, etc. If you didn't get an invite, PM me with your name, e-mail and phone number to add you.
  7. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Thanks. Good info. For Mexico, I wouldn't want a guide. Looking for more of a logistical planner. I sent Servimont an email regarding that. Thanks for the tip. After researching Ecuador, guides are required. They won't let you climb without one. Still very much in planning phase and cost. Mexico is cheaper, but less "real mountaineering" other than altitude. Equador seems more expensive but appears to be more glacier climbing. At the end, it will come down to cost vs reward. If anyone has an ecuadorian guide company they recommend, please share. No way am I going with an American one like RMI. The prices they charge are outrageous, and I dont meed or want the pampering they do.
  8. Mexico or Ecuador climbing

    Looking to head south this winter for a week. Haven't decided on the Mexican volcanoes or Ecuador. I would want to hire a local guide to handle logistics, lodging and transportation. Any recommendations for either location, and any recommendations of a local guide? Anyone else headed down this winter with room for two more (me and my wife), or anyone looking to go that want to join us? I figure prices get cheaper the more people you have. Thanks.
  9. Trip: Mt Baring 2-fer (north and south peaks) - Standard Trip Date: 05/19/2019 Trip Report: Chris and my original plan was a ski ascent of Baker, but with changing weather coming in over the weekend, we decided to do something lower and less likely to be in the clouds. We chose Baring Peak for a day outing. Having hiked Baring before, I wanted to spice it up by climbing the rarely-summited south peak as well. We came prepared for any conditions with two axes, pickets, crampons and rock pro. Some people call it overkill. We called it training weight. We reached Barlcay Lake trailhead and started up the trail. The approach was still as steep as I remembered, reminiscent of climbing trees in my childhood. It is more root than trail. We made snow-covered gully without incident and headed up. The snow was perfect for kicking steps and we made the notch easily. Snow gully. Baring on the left, south Baring on the right. We scouted the south route, which comes right out of the notch. It looked very doable with a couple snow patches broken by a couple rock steps. We couldn't see above the rocks steps though, so we hiked Baring proper to get a good look at the whole route. Baring was still all snow, but again solid snow that allowed easy steps. We headed down and geared up at the notch. We brought a single 8.2mm twin rope and folded it over. With the amount of trees and possible meandering, I didn't see the point of trying to pitch out 200 feet and deal with the rope drag. I offered Chris the leads and he offered them right back to me. I guess I was leading. The first twp pitches were muddy rock and thin snow without much protection other than slinging trees. The rock horns were loose and the snow too shallow and soft for pickets. It was easy climbing though, something like higher-upper 4th class. ( I want to call it low 5th for egotistical purposes, but it wasn't.) The route from the notch. The stars are the belays. Each belay had good tat with a newer rap ring around a solid tree. The letters line up with photos further down. Chris following the snow finger marked A. The upper route. We chose a narrow chute between two rock outcropping. It was steep and rather thin snow coverage. Going climbers right would have been safer but longer. We rapped down the chute. Chris climbing the snow chute marked B on the above photos. Obligatory summit photo. We hiked down the upper snow and did three raps to get down. The trees ate the rope like a lion with lollipop, so the descent wasn't much faster than going up. The way out was steeper than the way up (I don't know the physics behind it, but somehow the approach trail got steeper) and my knees screamed and almost quit. I gave my knees some pep talks, and they carried me down the root trail and back out to the car. It was a fun trip, but not something I ever need to do again. Gear Notes: ice axes, lots of long runners. Did not use crampons or pickets Approach Notes: Steep. Very very steep. Make your knees cry steep.
  10. Alpine Dads wanted

    I'm headed to Skaha for the long weekend for some family climbing. My next free weekend is July 13th. I am thinking of either Adams Glaicer, Kautz Glacier or Liberty Ridge. Trying to convince my wife to join me, but whether she joins or not, I'd want another person or two.
  11. Amazing trip and photos.
  12. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Leaning tower at Vantage. Yeah, it's not alpine, but it is in the Cascades...kinda. Was pushed over about 15 years ago.
  13. [TR] [TR] Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm 04/28/2019

    The very last photo has Johansburg in the background, just over my right shoulder. I don't have any other shots of Johansburg.
  14. Trip: [TR] Sahale Peak - Sahale Arm 04/28/2019 - Sahale Arm Trip Date: 04/28/2019 Trip Report: Inspired by last week's trip report, I decided to give Sahale Mountain a go. I have climbed Eldorado and Torment, but never drove to the end of the road. Of course, we still couldn't drive to the end of the road, so Lee and I hiked about 3 miles from the gate to the trailhead starting at 0700. The road had been plowed most of the way to the end. Looks like they will be opening it soon. Near the end of the road. Lot of plowing to clear out this section. Next was to enter the gully and get up on the arm. A huge avalanche had come down in the last week. Looks like it started high on the Triad peaks, set off multiple slab slides and filled the valley. The debris wall on the sides of the slide was over 15 feet high. It was an amazing show of force by mother nature. We stayed out of the debris by skining along the edge on the left hand-side. Kind of worried about coming back down this thing in the blazing sun. The debris wall there is over 15 feet high. Below us, a group of six were coming up the middle of the debris. Not sure if they found an open path in there, but it looked like difficult travel. 20190428_092024.mp4 Video of the gully and surrounding slopes. We picked our way through the rock bands, staying clear of where the slide came down as it looked like there were still more slopes above it that hadn't released. Once on the arm, it was clear sailing. The clouds moved in and out giving us respite from the sun and keeping the snow firm. The snow went from slush to firm in seconds when the clouds covered the sun. The higher we went, the icier it became, so we ended up switching to crampons for the last couple thousand feet. Boston Basin with Torment on the left and Forbidden in the middle. The summit pyramid was rime ice over rotten snow. One person from the group of six attempted it and made it about 2/3 of the way before coming back down. It wasn't worth it to me. One slip and you would go flying off the east side of the peak, landing thousands of feet below. Bottom of the pyramid was high enough. Lee. His foot was bothering him from the ski boots, hence the look of pain. Me: The clouds had settled in pretty well, wrapping most of the snow in delightful shade. We put on our skis around 3:00 PM, and dropped 5000 feet back to the upper parking lot in an hour. The snow was fantastic the whole way. A couple of small spots of butter snow (Lee's words), but otherwise it had warmed up just enough to make for an amazing descent. Note: The upper thousand feet was wind-loaded with anywhere from six inches to two feet of powder, sitting on a layer of ice. If this gets some direct sun, it is all going to slide. Had the sun been out in force and melted the snow to a slush consistency, we would have turned around a thousand feet below. Since it stayed cold the whole way, it felt safe enough to proceed but I can easily seeing that whole upper slide slide off soon. We booted back down the road and reached the car by 5:00 PM. Round trip was about 15 miles and 7000 feet of gain. It was a good day. Gear Notes: Skis, ice axe, crampons Approach Notes: Lots of snow.
  15. Long snowy approaches - equipment recs???

    Mountaineering in the cascades: Dec-March: Resort skiing, maybe ice climbing, very wet hikes. March-June: Volcano climbs and back country ski tours/ascents. Often long approaches. July-October: Cascade rock and high routes. November: Stay home and drink beer.