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needtoclimb

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needtoclimb last won the day on May 22 2019

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About needtoclimb

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    enthusiast
  • Birthday 01/01/1972

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    Seattle, WA
  1. BC Partners?

    This forum is pretty dead. It's main use anymore is the trip reports. Lots of great beta you won't find anywhere else.
  2. Trimming the inventory. Both jackets are in excellent condition with no holes or tears. Both jackets are size Large. For size reference, I am 6 foot tall and weigh 190 pounds. All prices include shipping to the lower 48. Arcteryx Dually Belay Parka size Large. Great for ice climbing as it is synthetic and rain/wind resistant shell. $350 (Discontinued. Originally sold for $479.) Arcteryx Nuclei FL $200 (Sells for new for $300) Outdoor Research Foray 3/4 Zip pants size Large. $90. (Sells for new for $180.) I am a 33 waist/32 inseam and these fit great. I have a pair of full zips so I don't need two pairs of rain pants. No holes or rips. Black Diamond first generation Couloir Harness. Size L/XL. $20 (enough to cover shipping and my time to the post office.) I upgraded to a newer model. I hate to throw this out and hopefully someone getting into mountaineering can use it. It is too big for my size 33 waist. It would fit a size 35 or larger.
  3. Looking for a pair of Forty Below Fresh Tracks size large. Not looking for purple haze or K2. If you have a pair laying around, i'd be willing to buy or rent them from you for a Denali trip in May. Kevin
  4. Denali 2022

    I read Noah's blog and its pretty good. I like the detail, the photos', etc. It is his blog so he is entitled to his opinion. He sounds young and I remember being young, invincible and judgmental too. 25+ years of climbing experience changes a person's perspective so while I may not agree with everything Noah writes, I understand why he is writing it. I can't necessarily disagree 100% with his perception of guides. A few years back I was leading a group of inexperienced climbers up Rainier and leapfrogging a RMI group as we took breaks. After one break, we were moving slow and one of the RMI teams decided to pass us by cross through our rope team! Yup, crossed his entire team right between my 2 and 3rd person, with all his clients stepping on our rope. When I called him out, he challenged me to a fight at 12,000 feet. After the climb I had a long discussion with RMI managers back at their HQ's and they knew exactly who I was talking about since they have had issues with him before. That being said, I having nothing against RMI. I first climbed Rainier with my dad in 1996 under RMI's tutelage, and I still remember the trip and the really good guides we had. There are good guides out there and bad. But many of the guides I have come across are just tired of dealing with climbers trying to either mooch free training/advice from them or just follow in their footsteps. I was at Camp Sherman a few years ago on an independent climb and a guide was sitting among the rocks talking to his clients. I sat back just to listen to him and gleam any insights he had on the route conditions. Independent climbers kept coming over and asking all sorts of technical/weather/stupid questions. The guide gave them very curt replies and continued to advise/train his clients. I didn't mind his attitude at all. His clients paid for his services and independent climbers were trying to get it for free. So it really does go both ways: prick guides and prick independent climbers. Noah is a little harsh on the "Take your money" thing so either he had a bad experience with a paid guide or never had a good paid guide. A good guide is well worth the money, a bad one should be left in a crevasse with nothing but a bottle of hot sauce and a box of toothpicks. Anyway, enjoyed your write up Noah. And just to add to this thread, I am interested in Denali this year. I am not getting younger so I am reaching a now or never stage. If anyone is still looking for partners or teams, give me a holler at kevindenali2019@gmail.com. (Had 2019 plans fail when my partner had to call it quits a month before our climb due to family issues.)
  5. south america Geezers

    Are you still active on this forum? I sent you a PM.
  6. [TR] Buck Mountain - Northeast face 08/11/2021

    My dad's axe? I have an axe like that in my gear room and its not my dad's, its mine! Jeesh. Young whipersnappers.
  7. Need a new camera

    Looking for suggestions for a new camera for alpine/mountain climbs. My old one is taking crappy pictures now days (probably too many times being dropped), and I tried my phone a few times but don't really like it. While normal pictures on the phone are fine, I recently found out that most phones don't actually zoom. They just crop and expand the picture, leaving you with a very blurry picture. Any suggestions for a fairly rugged, light-weight camera?
  8. Mountaineering Ropes

    There ya go Joe. Grab the rope to start out. Can't beat free and will get you through glacier climbs. As you can see above, ropes are like footwear and underwear. Everyone has their own style and preference. Get out with more experienced climbers, see their style, and find one that suits you best.
  9. Mountaineering Ropes

    Just saying that most newer routes are put up with 60m ropes. Steve House and Vince Anderson are in a different class than someone who has taken one course and it asking about his first rope. You also have a lot of experience to go with a 50m so can "go back" to it. Trying to give the guy advice so he only needs one rope and not having to worry about if his 50m rope is long enough to get him down on routes that are mainly put up with 60's now days. I'd rather see someone new carry a little bit extra weight than rappel off the ends of their rope or have to simul-climb a bit. With experience comes the ability to go lighter and faster. "Worthless" may have been a bad choice of words though. A 50m isn't worthless, you just need to know when to use it. In this case, based on his question, he doesn't have the experience yet when to use it other than glacier travel. A 60 is simply more versatile for one all-around rope is all I am saying. I would recommend if you are going to get one rope to start with for multitude different climbing styles, it would be one 60m mid 9mm rope. It will do glacier, alpine and cragging. For only glacier, a 50m, 8.5 would be my choice. On my 8.2mm, prusiks suck in trying to get bite but the Sterling Autoblocks work great and grab very well. Microtraxion also grabs the 8.2. Perfect world for me (The diameter listed below is a ballpark.) 40M 8mm glacier rope for two or three man travel on smaller glaciers. It would also work for ski mountaineering or scramble routes where you are not sure if you will need a rope, but want one in your back just in case. Double 60m 8mm ropes for wandering alpine routes or double-rope rappels are mandatory. Use one for larger glacier parties or where crevasses are bigger (Rainier.) 60m 9.5mm for alpine routes where single rope rappels will get you down and for shorter crags. 70m 9.8mm for longer cragging routes This I did not now about diameters being off. Thanks. I also started when a 50 was all I could buy. Then 60's, now 70's and even 80's. When is the madness going to stop? Who the heck wants to carry an 80 meter rope?
  10. Mountaineering Ropes

    I use one an 8.2mm dry rope for all my glacier travel. 60m long. It is 60m as it is part of my double ropes for alpine climbing. It weighs 5.5 lbs. I could chop it to 40 meters and save 2 pounds, but then I would need to buy another rope for my doubles. I don't mind the 60 as that lets me put 3-4 people on the rope with some room on the ends. When I go with just one person, each of us has enough coils to perform a rescue. Remember that for a two-man team, each person needs coils that are just longer than the span between them to be able to drop the other end down. You will see a lot of two-man, and three-man teams tied into the ends of a short rope but that gives them nothing extra for rescue. 50m would be long enough for a 2-3 man as well. 50m is almost worthless rock climbing or in the alpine though as most routes are 60. Your 50m rope would be dedicated only to glacier, while a 60 can do both. Also, if you get into where you cross glaciers then onto rock, a thin rope can be folded over and then used as a double for the rock climb if the pitches are short or you are simulclimbing.
  11. Has anyone done any more work to this route? It looks like a great route, except for the lack of real descent. No descent will keep most people away from this route, and it will quickly grow into obscurity. I wanted to climb it this weekend with my wife, however, the potential of being benighted on the rappel leaves a lot to be desired. What do you think of the below lines for a possible rappel? Blue will take you straight down from the summit and looks like half of the stations could be tree belays, with just a few bolted stations lower down on the blank wall. Would this take you all the way down without any bolted stations? Purple is a cutoff to get back to the route. That would require that the lower route has bolted belay/rappel stations. Yellow would require tree rappels down the ridge (or downclimbing) then bolted stations. It would drop you right back to the base of the climb. Having not been there, looking for some insight before heading up to explore the area and search/build a better descent.
  12. Washington Pass Conditions

    Just came back from there. Tons of bugs in the parking lots and on the approach. None once at the rocks. (Did both Kangaroo Temple and Liberty Bell,) No snow at all on any approach. Snow level is pretty sad.
  13. Climbing partners

    I just climbed Adam's Glacier with David. He's a solid guy. Very willing to learn and very competent. I'd do more climbs with him but I've used up my yearly allotment of "away from family" days.
  14. State of Cllimbing Report

    I noticed the same thing when I was at Index the past few times. The parking lot was packed, the campground lot was packed, yet I was able to walk up and get on Godizilla. It was an hour or so before another party came by to climb it. With the amount of cars there, I wasn't sure where everyone was. What I have noticed is that many climbers go in large groups now. When I started, it was just 2-4 people. Now, 8-10 people will go to an area, hang one or two ropes, then everyone gets a lap. Which works out fine as those 10 people are really just confined to a couple of climbs.
  15. Thoughts on Eldorado forecast

    I've been watching the weather and canceled a rainier trip this week because of it. Reading the forcast discusion, the low pressure will be pushing east on Friday, so it looks like Friday will be partly cloudy, Saturday much better. I agree with Jason, not enough accumulation to worry about slides. Smaller cracks might be thinly covered though with the wet snow, so be wary about that.
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