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needtoclimb

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About needtoclimb

  • Rank
    enthusiast
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  1. As the title says. New in packaging. I bought them then decided to go with a shorter pair. $400 shipped to lower 48. I live in Mill Creek and work in Seattle, so can meet as well.
  2. Alpine Dads wanted

    I am a 45-year-old father with a full-time job but try get out into the mountains once every couple of months. Every time I do so, I have to search the internet for a partner. Most of the time I end up with a partner who is single, no kids, young, extremely fit and has a much higher risk-tolerance than me. Then I never see the person again as I may not be free to climb for several more months while they are ready to conquer a new climb the next day. I am looking to put together an informal group of Alpine Dads; fairly fit alpine climbers who understand balancing work life, families and climbing. If you are in the same boat I am, always looking for a partner for the one day a month you have free to get out, then shoot me a PM. The idea is to have a group of alpine dads where we can reach out to each other to see who is available for the day you have free to climb, and climb together for years to come instead of just a single outing. As the kids grow (mine are 6 and 8), get them more and more involved and start taking them up bigger peaks. Couple of things I would like to do this year: Ski ascent/descent of Whitehorse mountain in the next month, a 2-day light and fast ascent of Glacier Peak in August, and hopefully more if I can convince my wife the need to get away. Other weekend outings will be comprised of backpacking trip with the family, and family cragging days at Index or Exit 32/28. Look forward to hearing from you.
  3. Wanted: Partner willing to strap a couple pieces of wood to their feet, skin up to the heavens and suffer possible -20 degree temps with wind chill. Willingness to suffer from minor altitude sickness and eat freeze-dried meals for two days a plus. Even better would be willing and able to pull out a partner from the claws of an icy abyss and huddle with him for warmth and companionship (though I really hope it doesn't get to that point.) If all this sounds fun, then give me a PM to go ski the Gibralter Ledges in the next month. Hopefully we will get another high-pressure system and can go do it. Plan is to drive down morning of, get permit and skin up to Muir. Next day ascend Gib ledges if conditions permit. Either descend the ledges, ski down Gib chute or the Ingraham direct. Descent will be conditions dependent. My only issue is that my wife works most Saturdays and Mondays, so it will most likely have to be a mid-week trip. I might be able to pull off a Friday-Saturday as she works some Saturdays. Looking for a partner with some flexibility to go make an attempt. PM me here if you are interested then we can talk dates.
  4. Beginner Rope System

    I pretty much have the same set up as DPS and Jason. For alpine or glacier routes, I bring along one of my Beal double ropes (I forget the diameter, but it is low 8.) The rope is 60m long. It is light and I do double it over to use when the climbing gets technical or want to simuclimb. Basically, you then have a 30M double rope to use, which for alpine routes is usually enough to get you through the crux moves. If you are doing something long and sustained, then bring both the double ropes and pitch it out as usual. But for something where you know most of the climb is scrambling and you want a rope for the couple of harder sections, then one rope will usually suffice. I don't plan on falling and only need it to catch one fall. I wouldn't go this route if pushing grades where you expect to take multiple falls. As for a tagline, i have found that with the newer, lighter ropes, there isn't much use for a tag line anymore. You can bring two 7.9mm ropes, climb on them both and use them both as a rappel, or bring one and a 6mm tag line that just sits in your pack most of the time. If doing long, meandering routes, you probably want the two ropes to reduce rope drag and increase redundancy if one of them does get hit by a rock. Darrington: I bring both ropes for the meandering routes and rappels. Approach is short enough the weight doesn't really matter. North Ridge of Stuart, Mt. Torment, various glacier climbs, etc I brought one rope, doubled it over so there was 30m between us. For any crux moves, 30m was plenty of rope to pitch it out traditional style. Cragging: 9, or 9.5 70 meter rope. I rarely take my 60m rope out cragging anymore. More and more routes have been put up with 70, so it's nice to have knowing that you can climb most of anything with it. Fun, shorter multi-pitch routes (think Leavenworth stuff), pitches can be combined with a 70. So i suggest you purchase a thicker 70m rope for cragging purposes, and a set of thin double ropes for alpine purposes, knowing you can take one or both of your double ropes
  5. review Sleeping bag for the cascades

    I second the FF Swallow 20. It suits me well in the Cascades, but does get warm in the summer if you are down lower. I open it up and use it like a blanket with my upper body out. It is very light.
  6. Denali 2019

    Myself, Mtnklimr and BamaD have formed up a team so I am no longer looking for partners. Hope to see you guys up there.
  7. Time to get rid of all the excess crampons that have been sitting around my gear room for years. If you are just getting into mountaineering and want some inexpensive gear before committing to high-end stuff, this is a great opportunity. I live in Mill Creek, work in the SODO district of Seattle, so can meet in either place. I am not willing to ship as it just isn't cost-feasible. Call or text to 425-659-5902. I take Venmo, Paypal or cash. Only have the sabertooth left. Black Diamond Sabertooth. Hybrid. No anti baling. $40.
  8. free Free snow shoes

    An older model Atals snow shoes. They do not have a heel lift and one of the rear straps is broken. They are free. I can leave them out front of my house for pickup. Text or call me at 425-659-5902. In a couple days they will go to Goodwill, but figured I'd give someone a chance to grab them first.
  9. sold! Entry level ice tools and axes

    I am selling off my old gear that has sat around for years. If you are just getting into mountaineering and want some inexpensive gear before committing to high-end stuff, this is a great opportunity. I live in Mill Creek, work in the SODO district of Seattle, so can meet in either place. I am not willing to ship as it just isn't cost-feasible. Each axe is $25. Call or text to 425-659-5902. I take Venmo, Paypal or cash. For Sale: Ande Kong Raid ice axe 65 cm Alien Ice Tool Lucky 007 Ice Tool Stubai Extreme Line ice tool Unknown brand Ice Tool
  10. Whitehorse Mountain in May

    After staring at the peak for years, i might as well try to climb it. Looking for a ski partner for a one-day ascent, with a possible bivuac at the trailhead to get an early start. Me: 44 year old weekend warrior with strong mountaineering/glacier/ski skills. You: Know how to ski. Know how to hike. Willing to openly cry when the pain becomes too much, but then just keep on climbing. Route-finding/Avy knowledge,/Glacier exp/Steep Snow exp/ is a bonus, but I just need someone who wants to do a epic 7k feet in a a day ski/climb. I have May 7th and May 19th currently available, but an flexible at work to take a day off mid-week. However, this weekend (May 7th) is looking pretty good and Whitehorse is better with snow on it. E-mail me at kevin@tcd.org with your phone number if interested. I don't twitter, instapound, facebook, myspace or other stuff, but I do text and call, so if you want to climb Whitehorse (and brag about it to all your friends later), give me a shout. Kevin
  11. Denali 2019

    At 44 I am not getting any younger, and next year is my year to climb Denali. Wife has agreed to give me a month sabbatical from the family, and saving vacation time from work. I have extensive Cascade climbs, glacier travel and general mountaineering experience. I have never been to Alaska however. I tried to find a team via CC.com about 5 years ago, and it fell apart early. Then kids came along and my Denali dream was put on hold. I am hoping to find or put together a team for next year. If you are like minded, give me a shout. Looking for people who truly want to do this and willing to commit. Kevin
  12. Ski Denali 2018

    It sounds awesome, and I want to ski it as well. 2018 is out for me though. If you are going in 2019, I will give you a call.
  13. Denali 2018?

    I am looking at going in 2019. Also want to avoid a guide service mainly due to the costs. If anyone is looking at 2019, send me a pm.
  14. Canmore climbing

    We (myself, wife, 5 year old daughter and 6 year old son) are doing a week in Banff for basic camping. A quick internet search shows there is very good rock climbing in Canmore. However, the same search showed 8 different locations and hundreds of routes. I lead up to mid 5.10 (trad and sport.) Looking for a decent place for a one-day excursion with the family. Due to the kids, it can't be to long of an approach or dangerous location. Any suggestions?
  15. Trip: Gunn Peak - Barclay Creek route Date: 7/15/2017 Trip Report: Ten years ago my wife and I attempted this peak. She was new to the Cascades and new to climbing. She was also new to any type of off-trail travel, route-finding and bushwhacking. Needless to say, Gunn is not a very good first peak. After numerous wrong turns, eye-level slide alder and miles of bushwacking, she sat down, took off her pack and exclaimed "I'm done with this shit!" She then took off her pack and through it on the ground. Well, we were still on very steep terrain and gravity took over. Her pack rolled several hundred yards down the mountain, only to be stopped by a stream. We fished her soaked pack out the the stream and descended. It didn't make for a very good trip. Ten years later and numerous peaks under her belt, she was game to try it again. The challenge this year is the unknown snow pack on the hidden gully and narrow north ledge. I wasn't going to be deterred by snow or any other conditions. Prepared for the worst, we packed a rope, pickets, ice axe, crampons and some rock gear and set out at 0730. The lower portion from the road was a lot easier to follow this time. Ten years of climbers have rendered a passable trail, though there are the abundance of nettles, pricker bushes and blowdowns. But there was a trail. Lower waterfall crossing. No water, but it is steep down to this crossing and up the other side. After a tremendously steep forest ascent on very clear trail, we reach tree-line and left the forest for the fern and heather meadows. Here, the growth became thick and the trail a bit harder to follow. The trail is below all the ferns, just have to move the ferns to see it. While overgrown, the occasional cairn and ribbon lead the way. Where we lost the trail, we either kept hiking up until finding it again, or backtracked and looked around until we came back upon the trail. It is about a thousand feet of ferns/slide alder bushwacking before reaching the open heather meadows, where the trail again became very easy to follow. My wife was a super-star this time, charging right through the growth and never once complaining about it. The more overgrown it was, the stronger she became. I think i have created a monster! Upper meadows Gunn came into view and we saw there was very little snow. Still not sure about the gully or backside though, so we continued to carry our gear. Gunn is the rocky crag with the clouds behind it. Take note of the snow field below the summit. We reached the hidden gully and found it was snow free! The class 3 scramble, while only about 30 feet long, was almost vertical. We climbed up no problem, and later downclimbed it, but there are rappel options if downclimbing vertical, dirty rock isn't your thing. Class 3 scramble in hidden gully. We reached the upper snow patch and crossed it with ease. It was soft enough where no crampons were needed. Just for kicks, we entered the moat behind the snow field, where the snow was up to 12 feet deep! Now for the moment of truth: the north narrow ledge. Snow-covered or clear? It was clear! Turns out we brought a rope, pickets and protection for no reason. We easily crossed the narrow ledge and scrabmled to the top. The picture doesn't give the narrow ledge justice. It is about an 18" wide grassy ledge with several hundred feet of exposure. A fall would be fatal. Luckily, the ledge is only about 20' long, and there are options of cracks and trees for pro if one desires. We had no issues and walked right across. I can see, though, how snow can make this an impassable problem (unless one carried a rope, pickets and protection!) Five hours from car to summit. Now time to head down. It took us five hours to get down, same time as going up. With such a vertical trail, going down was slower than going up. Using trees to slow our descent, essentially a controlled fall, we worked our way down the mountain and reached the car. Gunn is done!
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