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Posts
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Everything posted by pindude
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Nice one, Dechristo. They certainly do. Flexon frames are one brand that are titanium-based. Titanium alloys are stronger and have better "memory" so your frames are less likely to break or bend. Costco sells titanium-alloy wire-frames for the lowest prices I've found, including among the big boxes (LensCrafters, etc) and independent opticians. Costco also has a one-year guarantee/warranty on their frames and on lens scratches. You can pick out frames in their display, or if those don't cut your mustard you can try and get a helpful customer service-oriented optician to look through their books with you to make a special order. Matt's "progressive" lenses are merely bi- or tri-focals without the lines in the lenses. There's a gradual change or progression in focal length as you vertically go up or down the lens. Many of us folks approaching or beyond 40 lose the flexibility of our eyes to easily focus on characters on printed page or screen, thus the need for "reading glasses," or if we're already near-sighted (meaning can't see far) then the dreaded bifocals. I have progressive lenses as well, and have the same issues sighting in on my feet that Matt mentioned. Basically, for cragging and regular rock climbing, I like my much-abused titanium-framed glasses, and for the alpine where bad weather, snow or ice are involved, I generally wear contacts in combo with different sunglasses or goggles. Let us know what you find or choose. Cheers, Steve
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Sorry to hear, Alpinfox. My old neighborhood, too. Well, 30 years ago anyway. I've had my crag pack/main rack ripped off twice here in the Spokane area, both the only claims I've made through my homeowner's policy. Both times reported to cops, both times I scanned pawn shops and want ads for months but no luck finding any of it. First in 1992, about $3K from my truck in Mtn Gear's parking lot, by some gang-bang-wannabe's who had no clue about climbing. Exactly 3 weeks before a big trip to the Valley. Insurance cut a check for the whole thing, no questions asked, and I had almost everything replaced before the big trip. Second time about 3 years ago right at Minnehaha with about 50 folks around, more than $4K worth including wedding ring. A couple teenage punks who had been hanging around watching for the previous hour. This time the same insurance company, Unigard, made me purchase first then reimbursed after I produced receipts. I was treated like dishonest scum, given a big run-around, and lied to. After given advice by the company about my claim and told it wouldn't raise my rates or policy wouldn't be changed, the fuckers then immediately raised my rates significantly and wanted me to sign a new policy. I've since discovered it helps to have friends inside the insurance industry who can give realistic, good advice rather than be lied to and given the corporate hot poker up the ass. Hope you catch the bastards and your insurance company treats you right. Edited to add: For my most recent claim for any item that was older than new, the insurance company wanted to pro-rate and only partially reimburse. They did finally fully reimburse, but only after much back-and-forth. Avoid the BS and just say everthing was fairly new.
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Classic link-up. Thanks for the little TR, Joe. Enough snow on the north side--for laps between the Ruthann crest down to the drainage--to make it worth bringing the skis?
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Yes, this could be in general forum. Lots of good links presented, but I like to keep it simple. For weather forecasts, the NWS is best, and you can pinpoint a Fx from your regional center: NWS Seattle NWS Portland NWS Spokane Canada's NWS equivalent: Environment Canada Imagery loops are obviously important because the current pattern of movement can be predicted for the short-term future, complementing any forecast. Before heading out, I almost always look at two different imagery sites, one for the big picture and another that is more specific to the NW. For big picture imagery, my fav is the GOES-West satellite Pacific Ocean imagery with an infrared moisture overlay originally developed at Purdue but sold to and now provided by Unisys: Unisys GOES-West sat 12-hr enhanced infrared imagery For the local precip pattern, this site is very accurate (more so than the higher-altitude Unisys imagery): Intellicast 2-hour infrared radar loop Quite often for me weather goes in hand with snow and avalanche conditions, so I check the avy forecasts in season. Other good sites for specific info and Fx models include the UW Atmospheric Sciences Dept and the Aviation Wx Center, all linked from Lowell Skoog's links list. Many useful weather links here at Turns-all-year.com
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I can imagine what else you "drink"...
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Hmm, one of my fav WSU prof's in the 70s, and an old cowboy then, taught me how to make a martini I thought was real old school: 1 part gin to 1 part dry vermouth in a shaker. In the last couple decades, I have made them--sometimes by request--2 or 3 parts gin to 1 part vermouth, which I thought was more traditional. You say the trend is to have no or little vermouth? James Bond can't be happy.
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letsroll: Too bad, but good to know. jport: Thanks for posting the website. Glad to see you're going strong.
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If you don't give the gear to the Bushwackers, the Explorer Post in PDX is affiliated with the Mazamas.
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Nice pics, spotly. Some of these avatar pics are hard to make out, but now I know what yours is. Yeah, I think it's the same thing. (the one in my avatar!), Here's some pics: Highway Rock Highway Rock and Roadside Rock are the same. "Highway Rock" is the original name used by locals. It's noted correctly in the newer La Belle guide, and was mistakenly named "Roadside Rock" in Bland's older guide. Mistake was repeated by Whitelaw in "Weekend Rock," which was written and printed prior to the 2006 La Belle guide. La Belle's "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" has the most and newest routes for Banks Lake and nearby areas. "Weekend Rock" is a good complement as Whitelaw lists several boat-in only areas near Highway Rock that aren't included in La Belle. If you'll be climbing on popular Highway Rock, use La Belle's guide for sure. Many routes are bolt only, but La Belle lists which routes require trad gear. He also notes approaches and rap-ins, number/length of ropes needed, number of bolts and trad gear size for specific climbs. Good intros and warmups for Highway are on the south side starting with Bono and The Edge, Washington Pass (as mentioned by spotly), and Calanques. My favorite climbs on Highway Rock are on the west, water side and include Aqualine, Creamsicle Buttress, Danton, Tom Paine, Robespierre, Pas de Deux, White Lung Disease, Croissant, and Rashomon as a summit top-out. Further to the north on the west side, out of the sun the longest (until about 2 pm these days) and best reached by rapping in after walking around from the north are Cinderelle, Pas de Cheval, Papillon, Ou est Valdes, and Steve's Classic Dihedral. In Northrup Canyon, good moderates include the Southwest Arete of Gibraltar and several routes on Picnic Table Rock such as Earnest Stemmingway and Jugoslavia. Likely the best route on Picnic Table is Dr. Ceuse, which some say is the best single pitch in the Banks area. All climbs I've mentioned are moderates, not harder than mid-10. Boat not needed for Highway Rock and Northrup Canyon climbs. La Belle's Penninsula area used to be accessible by vehicle via Barker Canyon from the west side of the lake but is now closed to vehicles near the Barker Canyon boat ramp (as of this past winter), necessitating a several-mile hike. Best access for the Penninsula is now by boat from the east side, from the boat launch across from and west of the Northrup Canyon road. The Penninsula has the longest climbs on Banks, 3-5 pitches from just above waterline to the top of Orange Wall, but can get hot. When accessing Highway Rock by crossing through the marshy area between the gravelled parking area and the rock, look out for poison ivy including right on the beaten trail. It's a real ivy jungle there, but on Saturday I emptied two spray cans of herbicide on the stuff just within reaching distance of the trail. Poison Ivy abounds also on small ledges on the west side, so look out when throwing your ropes. Other hazards include rattlers and loose rock. Most routes are still fairly new and/or don't receive much traffic, and the granitic gneiss is crumbly enough to warrant constant attention. Have fun out there.
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Brian lived and worked here in Spokane only a few years ago. Strong in spirit and body, honorable, and well-liked by virtually everyone around him, Brian was truly a good, nice person. He was one of my favorites when he worked at Mountain Gear's retail store where I'd go out of my way to seek him out for info and advice. Among our discussions was Denali's West Rib: climbing the route was a dream of his for many years. I didn't know Mizuki, but am confident any partner of Brian's--especially for this route--would be similar in character. It's this aspect of climbing I hate. What a tragic loss. My condolences to the families and many friends of both.
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If that's such an issue, you can easily get a tracking number and track it yourself. Your reply doesn't change my opinion at all; it only reinforces it. I feel for you, but you have to take some responsibility on your own. I too once had to wait on a haul bag from Russ before a Yose trip, and had it delivered by Russ after a first projected date of when I would receive it, but got it in time--especially once I was clear with him when I needed it and what I needed it for. Perhaps you need to communicate with him more/better. Now that you've brought this shit up to the world, and to be fair, you at a minimum owe it now to let Russ know you posted your shit on this board, and you need to let us know when you receive your order, if not to let us know what further comm's you have with Russ. You made the bed with your original post, you now have to lay in it. Shit happens. Do your best in a positive way to reconcile problems, rather than resort to whining on the net about your late delivery. Hope you get your stuff soon, and you have a great Yose trip. responsibility?? communicate?? geez..i'm not asking anyone on a date.. i paid money for a product. i've been in conctact with russ on e-mail. why do i owe it to anyone to tell them about this post. do all the other rants about people and businesses need to be reported to the subjects? that's bogus. word of mouth advertising can be ones best or worst enemy. that's why businesses need to be on top of it. i deleted the original post because russ sent me a private message right away and i did feel bad about going here before going to him. so i replaced the rant with just some simple statements of what is going on. since then, russ has posted part of an e-mail i sent directly to him. we all gotta take the good with the bad with this internet stuff.. Damn right you should've taken resposibility, and you obviously not only failed to communicate well with Russ and this forum, you lied. Reread the whole thread if you don't know how apparent this is. I see my initial presumptions about your first post were true. Good job, you've defined yourself as one lacking credibility. I'm not going to debate you any further, I'm going to bed. Others can take it up tomorrow.
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If that's such an issue, you can easily get a tracking number and track it yourself. Your reply doesn't change my opinion at all; it only reinforces it. I feel for you, but you have to take some responsibility on your own. I too once had to wait on a haul bag from Russ before a Yose trip, and had it delivered by Russ after a first projected date of when I would receive it, but got it in time--especially once I was clear with him when I needed it and what I needed it for. Perhaps you need to communicate with him more/better. Now that you've brought this shit up to the world, and to be fair, you at a minimum owe it now to let Russ know you posted your shit on this board, and you need to let us know when you receive your order, if not to let us know what further comm's you have with Russ. You made the bed with your original post, you now have to lay in it. Shit happens. Do your best in a positive way to reconcile problems, rather than resort to whining on the net about your late delivery. Hope you get your stuff soon, and you have a great Yose trip. -------- Edited to add: In the time I made my point above, I see underworld made some major edits to at least 2 of his posts here, and Russ replied. OK, at least glad it worked out. Russ: underworld: I was initially unsure about giving you a thumbs down, especially with your edited contrition. Too bad I didn't quote your original message so others can see what you originally wrote. Still, the original grievous act outweighs all:
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Madison, Wisconsin Climbers?
pindude replied to jessieo's topic in The rest of the US and International.
What town in Wisconsin are you moving to? My family is from and I was born in the cheese state, but I became a climber after moving away. Devil's Lake near Baraboo is the main show, although there's a few other places to boulder and climb that I've heard about. Carolyn from this board is from Minnesota and will know better about places and any local climbing discussion boards for the area. -
It's well known by most in this activity that Russ is a climber and prompt delivery is not expected when ordering Fish Products. However, it's bomber gear and well worth it. In the past when I've needed gear for a trip on a specific date, I've simply and plainly told Russ and received the order in time for the dance, no problem. Are you just wanting it, or do you have a trip planned? Have you communicated clearly with Russ? I'm all for supporting the little guy and am willing to cut some slack, especially for those such as Russ who are innovative and creative, are into it for the love of the activity and are not getting rich from it. What really stinks are folks like you who complain to the world on the net about something fairly minor, and then claim "fishproducts stink!!!" WTF.
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Nice TR and photos, thanks for sharing. Especially like the wood axe with the off-white tape.
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E, it's gonna take at least a month to plan and get folks together. Ted, yes, I will ask the MS folks, thanks. I just got assigned a new work project that will take me to Wenatchee during weekdays for at least the next 6 weeks. I'll be back on weekends. How about a weekend day in June. Who's interested in helping, and what weekend day would be good? And hey, E, I like the new avatar with the nice big, uh, beer steins.
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The West Face is another free route commonly done in a day by fast parties. 20 pitches total, mostly 5.10, with 4 "spots" of 5.11 or so.
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I moved away from Seattle when I was still fairly young, so others may know better about JP. Regardless, he was a Seattle icon throughout the 60s and 70s, and is speculated to be the inspiration for Matt Groening's Krusty the Clown.
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JP Patches, every morning before school.
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Frontline is meant for dogs and cats, and is dosed by weight/size. Yeah, I think best for you may be to do the collar thing. No guarantees on what might fall off, though.
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Frontline isn't meant to be ingested, it's applied topically between the animals shoulder blades where the animal can't get to it and ingest it. When used correctly, it's safe and it works. For dogs and cats vs. ticks and fleas, I understand it's the most recommended by vets. The red-hot needle thing is also plain wrong and flat-out unnecessary. I'm sure quite a few kids were burned from it.
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DON'T twist them as you pull: that's why the body is being pulled off the head. The twisting "trick" is plain wrong. And forget the alcohol swab thing too. After getting the body perpendicular to the host skin surface, and separating it from as much hair as possible (and as I mentioned above), slowly and gently PULL IT STRAIGHT OFF. My nurse wife calls it "perpendicular traction." Archie, if you brought your pet over, I'd be glad to give you lessons. Frontline is the best. It will very effectively keep ticks from latching on, but our dogs will still bring ticks into the house on top of their fur before the ticks bail off wherever they may be in the house, not untypically on our beds. And oh, yeah, Makers Mark will indeed work. But only if you drink it yourself. Work for what?
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Exercise science degree? Cent. Wash. University?
pindude replied to Chad_A's topic in Fitness and Nutrition Forum
I realize you said you're burnt out on nursing, but I've got a couple friends, plus had a US Marine cousin, who had RNs and went on to become nurse anesthetists. All have or had great interests in the outdoors, and being a nurse anesthetist allowed them a fair amount of time off to play, plus they received good pay. -
OK, so my wife who is a ARNP took some of the smirk off my face. Thanks mtnsk8r. Mouth parts can be accidentally left in, which can cause serious complications. Another tick malady most know about, and is more prevalent in the Rockies, is Rocky Mtn Spotted Fever, which can occur with imbedded mouth parts. I once watched another "fiddle" a tick out with tweezers, pulling the body apart, and the tweezers were ultimately useful to get the mouth parts out. This person was an MD. In my experience, tweezers--especially sharp ones--are more likely to tear a tick body off before the tick is pulled out. Especially if the tick is an enlarged, engorged, blood-filled female, fingers work better. When you're done, just don't lick your fingers or eat before you wash your hands. Less than 10% of the ticks I've pulled are the engorged type: Most are like this little guy, which is about 10-20% the size of the above:
