pindude

Gym hold? Chipped holds? WTF is going on out there? Bolts are never acceptable near a protectable crack. I haven't been been out to DH wall since last year, but if the rock is indeed being brought down to certain person's levels, then action should be taken.

In Spokane: GSI Outdoors Integral Designs USA Mountain Gear ACME Climbing Also: Cascade Toboggan - Sandpoint, ID Northwest River Supplies - Moscow, ID Buck Knives very soon to open in Post Falls, ID after relocating from San Diego I assume you're not talking your standard outdoor retail shop, or we could add much more.

Sorry, don't know about these, even though my home is in Mead. The towns straight north of Mead along Hwy 2 these boulders could be near are, in order: Colbert, Chattaroy, Riverside, and Elk. Even though I climb basalt, and I've done my share of riding and trundling choss--Deep Creek, and the pillow-type basalt around Spokane--scares me and I tend to avoid it when I can. Nice list, BB.

ski it!

MC, let's do some bouldering together. Many of the cult of the pad people disappear after the local colleges (GU, Whitworth, others) end for the spring quarter...one of the beauties of Minne is that much of it is often deserted on weeknights in the middle of summer. I didn't know you'd been getting out there: that's more me not being there than you. I'll be there Wed evening. Blowboard, I was just wondering how well you knew Minne. I never thought it was likely "the best in the state" either, but I'm not one to judge. I'd like to know comparisons too. Glad to know you are/were a local. I grew up in Spokane barely on the west (Glenrose) side of the ridge just to the west of Dishman Hills. Most of my first bouldering was in the DH Natural Area, and all the many rocks to the south leading all the way up to the Tower Mtn area while MB'ing, hiking/running, and riding horses through those hills--glad to hear you discovered them too. I'm involved with a group to try and save some of that property (south of DH Nat Area to Rocks of Sharon) from development, and at least establish one contiguous trail that is friendly for MB'ing, hiking, and horses. Many of the parcels south of the DH Nat area are still private, but much land has been purchased and is now public, from near Tower Mtn and down into the valley, where you can legally MB, etc, from an access point at about 44th Ave and Schafer Road. Cheers, Steve

I'm not so sure that there are any established problems at Minne overcome with lichen or moss. As far as peeps bouldering at Minne, I see em out there all the time. Hey, Martin, why don't I ever see you bouldering? I originally wondered about Sherman's Minne comment myself, but book was written when bouldering was just getting really popular (I think it helped it along), and I would assume Sherman did not know all of WA bouldering at the time. Since the book has come out, we've got countless new and outrageous problems all over the state, not to mention worldwide. Regardless, Minne's excellent for bouldering, and climbers and boulderers alike have a lot to thank the Vermin for. Edited to add: I don't get around the state much just to boulder; if I'm travelling I'm likely doing some trad, alpine or sport climbing. I'm sure there are more bouldering areas that rival Minne, but the only other bouldering area I know of, and could be considered better than Minne as far as concentration of good problems, is in the Icicle. What are others? Blowboarder, hopefully when you bouldered at Minne, you had a *knowledgable* bouldering local showing you round, and weren't going just by some guidebook. Many problems and rocks never make it into guidebooks--Minne's no exception.

Spoke to Jim at the ID Dept of Lands office in Coolin. Ed of their office was reportedly skiing up there this past week on a day trip. I've emailed him, but don't expect a reply until next week. For now, official road access to Chimney from the East Priest Lake Road is same as last year, from Indian Creek and the north to get to the old Horton Ridge lookout. Hunt Creek road currently has logging trucks running up and down it, salvaging the burned timber from last year's fire, caused ironically by logging. So if you don't have a CB and know the trucker's channel, you'd be at risk there. They're possibly logging 7 days a week to get timber out, since they have a limited 40-day contract to do so. I'm headed to Canada for a family graduation, so have fun this weekend guys. If I get a message back from Ed, I'll post again.

Spung and SMG, I'd love to know too, but haven't heard from anyone. No Chimney approach road info at all on the IPNF website (normal). With fed observance tomorrow, Priest Ri USFS office is probably closed, but ID State Parks Coolin office may be open, and they *may* know approach road info: 208-443-2200 or 208-443-2929. They should be able to tell us if we can go up the normal Hunt Creek Rd, or if they're logging on it and they're sending folks up from the Indian Creek side like they were trying to do last summer. Regardless, this is about the time of year the Horton Ridge Rd opens up all the way to the TH. With or without the wet weather, if I was headed up there this weekend, I'd bring up my skis...more choices. Nice pics Dane. I've gotten nailed by wet snow in white Grammici cotton up there, too, in July and August.

Wally, In Spokane you can go to Minne, and as you're facing the Main Wall from below, set up a TR anchor just to the right of Smoky Overhang: it's a nice overhang where you can get lots of Prusik practice in. The bolts above this line were put in for setting up TR Prusik anchors at least as much as for climbing. As far as a pulley system, there's enough random trees on top of either the Main or Secondary faces to set up Z, C, or Z x C systems to your heart's content, or take Dru's advice and climb/aid up and set up an anchor halfway up one the of classic crack climbs like Diagonal, Dihedral, Bat Crack, or Don Quixote.

Hopefully he showed you that slide he has of the foot.

Friends from Spokane-CDA area climbed Beckey route two weekends ago (Memorial weekend), reporting no problems on the rock. As far as rack goes, a modest rack (~20 pieces) of nuts and cams/hexes should do ya.

The fun I have missed by being away from this board... I agree with just about everything you have to say, pu. I like CDA a lot too, in many ways better than Spokane. If you get on snow on a board or boards, I'd be glad to take you into the winter BC around here, and I'm not talking Tubbs Hill or Mt. Spokane. Many of the winter BC places I know are closer to CDA than Spokane. Conversely, maybe you could show me where those condoms and needles are?--apparently, I've been missing where the parties are out there all these years, nothing new. Don't mean to chestbeat, but there is perhaps one person who has picked up more trash at Minne than I have--that's Bob Loomis. In all the pounds of trash I've picked up out there in 18+ years, I've seen less than that # of needles and condoms you mention, but of course it's gonna be out there, to some degree. We've done a lot to clean up that place, including having private security patrol at night (thanks County Parks) and sheriffs patrol in the day...but they do stick close to the road and stay in the parking areas. Let me know, and I'll bring a Sharps container. AaronB, I'm glad you're glad. But don't make up sh*t about me like I am the "super safety expert." If you knew me, you'd know I'm not, but on the other hand I'm not passive if I see someone at the crags doing something that may kill them. Have fun in the Valley--hope you get good weather and get lots of vertical in. OK, Gotta get back to my bible and prepare for my next work prayer meeting.

Greg, Just got on this board after avoiding it for many days. If you get a chance to read this, I'll be out at Minne on Saturday, with a Spo Mounties class, at least for the morning. We generally don't take up all the good climbs, so there should be lots of choice climbs open....but in particular I'd be glad to give you a quick tour and point you toward some appropriate routes. Ask anyone for Steve and someone should point you toward me. Re. China Bend, it's too hard for me in my fat middle age--hopefully you got some beta from Marty Bland, who probably knows it best. If not, Mountain Goat Outfitters (NW corner of Sprague & Division) or Mtn Gear (2002 N. Division) climbing folks will have current beta.

OMG This is some of the best stuff on the net. I was wondering when we'd be able to read her next journal entry. Thanks for staying on top of her, I mean things, Dru!

I sure missed this thread earlier. A couple or so misperceptions need to be corrected, so here goes. And since it’s in Spray and is living up to that name... Short answer Minx: climbing is generally good, cost of living is generally low. The negative thing here about Spokane is overblown in this thread. There will always be people dissing on an area for different reasons. Bottom line is that you make the most of an area you live in. It is true Spokanites have had an inferiority complex compared to the west side, but that’s mostly in the past—the general perception I see here is that people are thankful for what we’ve got, including when comparing life to west of the Cascades. Not saying it’s better over here as there’s a lot I like about the Sound area and that I miss, including quick access to the Cascades and “more culture,” although the amount of culture here is at least what you’d expect for the size of this area--Spokane is ranked by the US Census at about #100 as a MSA. There is a lot to be said for the Sound’s quick access to the incredible Cascades. For us to get into comparable mountains we have to drive a little further, but in general comparison to the Sound area, there is a wider variety of climbing opportunities based out of Spokane. And there is much more climbing in town compared to west-side towns. I have several friends who moved here precisely because of the climbing, skiing, whitewater boating, and other recreation this area has to offer, not only for what is available to do in the evenings or on single days, but also for the incredible variety that is accessible on weekend trips. PU, you say the “city is lacking in many ways.” Care to elaborate? Is that why I see you—a CDA’ite—in Spokane city so often? The Spokane area really encompasses a metro area that includes the newly incorporated city of Spokane Valley, and stretches to the east across the Idaho border to Post Falls and Coeur d’Alene, although the US Census does not figure the Spokane MSA to include these Idaho communities—it’s a political thing. As far as jobs go, the economy is very two-tiered. The one main area where Spokane is really lacking (right, PU) is that of good jobs—Spokane has been hit hard and lost a lot of better paying jobs since ~2000 that have not been made up for. Generally the best positions here are in the health industry. In terms of pay, Spokane’s median pay is around $27K, which ranks it pretty low, especially in terms of its size, but the cost of living is fairly commensurate. Here's a breakdown of jobs and pay scales. AaronB, at the risk of pissing you off further: maybe you need a better paying job than that which you had at Silver Mtn, a better car (and those drive times you listed will improve, except for the Wasatch, which is more accurate), and you need to learn to love yourself first! Sabertooth is the most objective and pretty right on. The only thing I would correct is one item on his list is way wrong: local crags for trad climbing is definitely a plus . Sabertooth, I don’t know how you missed that one. As far as the skiing goes, I can see how AaronB’d be bummin’ if he had to make the drive on I-90, then have to take that long ride in that gondola, 5 days a week—especially if it was to a low-paying job. Silver Mtn is my least favorite of the 5 area resorts, but it’s still a fine mountain according to many. Inland NW skiing does not generally compare to Utah and the ‘Satch, but it can if you know where to go and when, including the backcountry. One of the best-kept secrets of the CDA-Spokane area is that we have excellent day-trip access to world-class BC skiing—Minx, I’d be glad to take let you know more about it. Lastly re. snow stuff, another one of the skiing secrets about the Spokane area is that if you’re into skinny skis on groomed trails, Mt. Spokane is difficult to beat (quick access, big network of groomed trails, long season). I’m not sure how old AaronB is, exactly where all he’s lived, skied and climbed, or what has him so upset. My experience? I’ve been skiing and have climbed in mountains for a happy 34 years, throughout the western US and Canada. I’ve traveled on ski and climb road trips throughout western NA, lived in 4 towns in the NW from Kalispell to Seattle (in addition to living as a kid in the northern midwest and east coast), and traveled in Europe and South America. Minx, here’s some more stuff here at CC.com: Spokane climbing Climbing near Spokane Climbing areas near Spokane on a hot day And ski info from ttips: Idaho at Easter skiing north Idaho Cheers, pindude

Interesting discussion since I was last on. MS Word with "Find/replace" does the trick too, CBS. Not translated, in my first statement, was why not use 5.5-mm perlon? (not Gemini, Titan, Spectra-type cords as mentioned in the second cryptic sentence.) I've been using regular 5.5-mm cord for crevasse rescue since the mid-80s--it grips well down to 8.5 mm, but I haven't used it on 8.1-mm or less rope yet. On another note, rescue folks I have spoken to, including the now-retired Arnor Larson of Rigging for Rescue, prefer prussiks over mechanical-type ascenders in a rescue situation. Especially with the weight of two or more people on a single rope, there is more concern about a mechanical ascender's teeth (this would include a Tibloc) tearing the sheath of the rope if somehow the rope were shock-loaded.

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Nothing positive to report yet, but I thought the #$%@heads who stole my pack might try to use 2 tickets in my wallet for last Saturday's "Radical Reels" show in Spokane. It was non-reserved seating, but I knew the ticket numbers. They didn't show, maybe because they were too lazy, or too smart to know that I had several climbing buddies including a city police detective waiting for them to pass the tickets. Thanks everyone who helped out. And at least the show was enjoyable. Others who were at the rocks that day confirmed there were a couple 18-y-o white boys, non-climbers, watching the action that Saturday afternoon. It's most likely them: they were noticed to be gone only immediately after my pack was ripped. Obviously they either took the gear to sell, or to use themselves. What I'd really like to get back is the wedding ring. I've personally contacted all 20+ pawn shops in the Spokane-Spokane Valley area in the past week, plus emailed my list of stolen gear to all the Play It Again Sports Shops in the four NW states. If they took the gear to use themselves, I'd appreciate people keeping their eyes open. They likely were local, but could have been from outside the area, as they didn't show up at the crag until Saturday afternoon. Shop owners and employees: If they are wanting to climb some vertical, these guys still need a rope, 2 harnesses, and one belay device. They did get a grigri and two pairs of shoes (one pair older La Sporty Megas and one pair La Sporty Focus, both needing resoling). If they sell or try to use the gear, I doubt they would take the time to pull off all the electrician's tape I used to mark it, which is in a white-blue-white pattern. I should mention that I found out about another Spokane climber ripped off the same weekend: one of the Wild Walls gym employees had his gear broken into outside his home, with his indoor climbing gear taken--it might be noticable because he engraved designs on some of his gear like his grigri. One of the items ripped was a brand new pair of red 5.10 shoes (Moccasyms?). I'm not holding out much hope for my own stuff, but appreciate the support and awareness I've received. I'll certainly be talking to more of the folks I don't know--climbers or non-climbers--at the crags from now on. --Steve Reynolds

PP, The offer was for 7.95 CD, plus mailing, for copy in "like new" condition. With low price and helpfulness of Dru's bro, I have to throw in a tip in good conscience. Thanks mucho, Dru. --Steve

Greg, Sabertooth pretty much hit it right on. One thing I would add is that, obviously, Minne is no destination area, but is perfect (except for the effing thefts) as an urban crag, to get out in the evenings or when your time is limited and you gotta be near town. Climbing problems and routes run the gamut, unless you're lookin for 5.13. As far as camping is concerned, unfortunately there's no camping at Minne...then again you wouldn't want to with potential of break-in problems for cars parked there overnight. Mt. Spokane still has lotsa snow, and would be good if you don't mind snow-camping, and would be even better yet if you wanna do skin-laps and ski on the 1200' or so vertical there is to play on. Their ski ops closed for the season last Sunday, so you'd have the hill to yourself along with maybe a small handful of other skiers and snowmobilers. Riverside State Park just northwest of town will have snow-free camping. Free camping?--you'd have to drive a ways out of town to the north or east (in ID) directions before you could get on FS or public land to camp. I'm also known for putting up friends and climbers, but right now you'd have to contend with some remodeling work I'm doing--let me know.

AlpineK, Wish the place was better, at least it looks better. The problem at Minne has always been the non-climbers, and they’re still the problem. Such is this urban crag. Jake, One thing I’ve noticed out at Minne this spring is that some of the trails, especially in the same bouldering area we’ve been talking about, are disappearing in new grass growth. Something I haven’t seen for many years. I thought bouldering was more popular today than ever, but it seems there isn’t as much bouldering going on at Minne as there used to be. Perhaps the locals need to be reminded about what a great bunch of problems exist out there. AaronB, If you knew me, you'd know I'm not rude, but you'd also know I'm not afraid to call it like it is. As was expressed in the above posts (please read *all* of the above), and agreed upon by Jake, there was a lot more to climb out there both yesterday and today--Minne's not that small, there was more than just "some space" for others to climb, and we *were* in smaller groups. Most Spokane-area climbers know me, and know what Minne and our local club is about. I know you're new to town. Let me know, Aaron, and I'd be glad to show you around Minne and other crags around here, climb, and knock back a beer or two. Steve Reynolds

I wasn't there, but that was likely the instructor workshop for the same Mtn School program. They would have been ensuring the instructors were all on the same page as far as how to teach belaying, etc. Many of those folks are still fairly new climbers, so they were probably intrigued with whatever set-up you had going on for your aid self-belay. I can picture the looks you got myself! Reminds me of when I started solo-aiding out at Minne in the late 80s, setting up an anchor at the bottom of the route and heading on up. I typically had people gawking at me and my system then, too.

Yeah, Minx, thanks, I feel for you too. I'm taking your advice re. the identity theft: that's what I'm most worried about. Work tomorrow is shot, as I've got a big list of things to do to resolve some of this. The more I think about the theft, the more I have a gut feeling it might have been a HS or so-aged kid or two who I earlier saw cruising around. Not climbers, but obviously fascinated by what was going on. It's very possible they took the pack for the gear, and will try to make the most of the other goodies. --So I appreciate you all being on the lookout for it. I would love to do some Dane-style justice (that's a story ) on these (*@#%$$#%. --Steve

COOL let me know when you want to teach a leader class for free I will be alll over it We'd be glad to teach you anytime over here, Muffy. There are a lot of excellent lead-climbing instructors on this board, I'm sure, who would do the same thing for you at Smith, L-worth, Squish, or any of the other higher quality places on the west side.