mike_m

Tahoma Glacier, thx

Looking at the 20/21 weekend Thx

It was in one of the glissade tracks around Moon Rocks. I turned it in to the Paradise Rangers. For a KIA.

Anybody know the status of the Cloud Cap road? Worth it or even able to drive partway up, or just start out with the TJT from the bottom to get to Sunshine?

FWIW, when we did the w Butt a few years back I used the old chrom-moly BD Sabretooths, full bail front and back, with 40-Belows and had no problems at all. I had recieved the advice above about leaving the 'pons mounted to the boot/overboot combo to create "memory" in the foam, and it really did seem to help.

Second Ascent, in Ballard

I'd agree--as you traverse around the South side of Source Lake, get into the second, more prominent gully heading up to the Basin, not the fainter first one

For the summer approach, use the lower lot just below the gate, where the footbridge over to the ski lodge is. To my knowledge, though I haven't tried it, it would be a challenge to get across the creek & up to the trail from the upper lot. You'd waste whatever time you gained by driving to the furthest lot. FWIW, I did the Tooth via the winter approach from the upper lot last Thursday, it was in good shape except for the gully leading up from Source Lake to the Basin. Lots of bottomless moats in the first drainage we were punching through, especially on the way out in the afternoon. The further one under Bryant (where the summer route heads up) was in better shape.

Did you approach via the Tilly jane Trail, or is the road open?

Most of what I used has already been covered, so FWIW, here it is: Tent: old standby VE-25 Pack: Dana Terraplane, don't know off the top of my head the equivilent Mystery Ranch one is. Down: Feathered Friends Icefall parka and Peregine bag, the wider cut one. I had them add 4 oz of down to the bottom (knee down, more or less). Plenty warm even for a May trip. Shell: had a ltwt Marmot Activent shell that I cached at 11k, most of the trip relied on my Driclime for wind protection, didn't bother with a puffy or any other shells other than one of those old Marmot 1-piece suits with the fleece upper and Gore-Tex lower. Loved it for up there. Stove: X-GK--it sounds like your going with a guide service, I believe they generally provide the stoves (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). Boots: Asolo 8000, fit me the best of what was available at the time. Like has been said, anything warm enough for Denali is going to be way overkill for "normal" use in the Lower 48.

I was just up at Paradise last weekend with a small group for CR practice, there's a great vertical snow wall (15-20') right at the East end of the upper lot where the road continues towards Mazama Ridge. Worked out great.

For reducing friction in the system, I don't know if it matters if a single pulley is used as the fixed or floating pulley in a 3:1 system; the fixed one is weighted much more than the floater, but more rope travels through the floater. It does make sense, especially if the lone pulley is a prusik-tender, to use that pulley as the fixed one to make the best use of the ratcheting prusik, since if the system is set up right that prusik would not have to be tended at all, even during re-sets. I usually only carry one pulley (a Petzl Mini PMP) unless I'm on a two-person rope team, but do carry a DMM Revolver biner (the one with the small pulley wheel built into the biner frame) to use as an improvised pulley if I need one. So if I was setting up a 3:1 with just my gear, the lone pulley (with a very short ratcheting prusik that needs no tending)would be the fixed one at the anchor and the Revolver would be the floating "pulley." If the $4 petzl is that little nylon wheel to clip into a biner, I've never used one, but have heard the same stories of them breaking. Hope that helps. OK. With the drawing, I understand your "drop loop" better: a 3:1 piggybacked onto a 2:1. in this setup I still say the best place for the pulley would be at the anchor, so #1.

Not Machines, but I've got a set of Taakoons in need of a new home now that Santa brought a set of new Cobras if you or anyone else is interested.

Having the second (smaller) shovel also allows you to keep one "clean" for mining snow to melt and not risk adding others' secretions to your meals, and use the bigger one for around camp.

There is a couple of shuttle services from Montrose, Telluride Express and Mountain Limo. Mountain Limo sux. Telluride Express was $25 per person (one way) with a $75 minimum the last time I used flew with a group and needed a shuttle, and actually showed up when they said they would. Alpenglow Condominiums has a bunch of units in all different configurations, all with kitchens. A little more expensive, but nice units on the Park end of town.