pindude

Problem might be that their url changed. Don't know when. Just before hamster's post above, I HAD this as a bookmark, and this is also what google still brings up: http://www.nwac.noaa.gov/ NWAC home page now this: http://www.nwac.us/ Thanks hamster.

Good folks are still working on it. My understanding is that verbal agreements have been reached, lawyers are finalizing the deal and agreement is yet to be signed. There *might* be something to report in the next couple weeks. When the deal is closed, there will certainly be a public announcement. Some more not-too-recent info here at Dishman Hills Natural Area Association, who with Spokane Mountaineers and others, are making this all possible.

C, Hoping for the best for Latte and you. We had one cat--Nipper--with Feline CRF (Chronic Renal Failure) who lived at least an additional 5 years with it, finally passing away at the ripe age of 17. Am wondering right now if early CRF is a problem for our Katy, who came to us as a stray and we think is about 10 years old. Since Sobo's post, you've probably already looked it up, but googling up "crf feline cat" yields a plethora of results. Bless you both, Steve

Johnston Canyon. Low avy hazard, but careful on blue-sky days--even when below freezing--when the sun shines on the top of the ice formations. Barry B took a big ride a few years ago when the formation he was most of the way up on broke off above him. Barry was not hurt from what I recall. And in the late 90s I with some friends narrowly missed being hit by a VW-sized block, somewhat to climber's right of the actual Johnston Falls. The latter event at least was due to solar gain while the sun was shining on the upper ice at mid-day. Another danger there might be all the tour groups who hike in...

Scroll down on this link previously posted, toward the end of the timeline. Nothing real yet. Seems the word is starting to get out in China. "Field teams," including a CNN crew, are making some progress. But finding further info, and C&C, will take time. Blessings to all involved in the search.

E, Check out Will Gadd's ice climbing pages, which start from his website here: http://www.gravsports.com/ Cheers, S Edited to add: Looks in, photo here from Will's site from Dec. 13. On Cascade, always have to be aware of snow in the bowl above for avy danger.

Very cool, MisterE, glad to know. I see the book here: http://www.amazon.com/Glen-Denny-Yosemite-Sixties/dp/0979065909 But I thought Glen Denny's movie--"El Capitan"--edited and released by Fred Padula (and one of my favorite climbing movies) in the late 70s or so, documented the third Nose ascent. Not sure if I remember that from the movie itself, or some other source, but that's what is stuck in my mind. I may well be wrong. Haven't seen that movie in at least a couple years, but I've got the VHS in my collection and have seen it at least 10 times since the mid-80s. Climbers in that ascent, in addition to Glen who filmed, were Dick McCracken, Gary Colliver, and Lito Tejeda Flores. I don't doubt you. Just wondering which ascent was which? Can't wait for Glen's book to come out. Cheers

Thanks for the ref's, CBS, Alasdair, Mr. Phil. Welcome, Kit, to the board and Spokane. Lots of good advice given so far. I'm not really a "big shot," but am glad to help. While I'm a Spokane Mountie, I'm really an independent sort, and would be glad to give you honest info on how to learn in general, and how to take advantage of the programs in the area including what the Spo Mounties and others offer. Only the Spo Mounties Mountain School is limited to folks that have to register as members by Jan. 1. While I think this rule is BS, it would be worthwhile to join by then if you are thinking about climbing in the mountains and are even remotely interested in Mountain School this spring for you or your husband. However, there's lots of other options and classes available. I can tell you much more. If you don't already know, the Mountaineers in general are royally sprayed on in this board, sometimes deservedly so. Interestingly, the disfunction in the Mountaineers is much less compared to that exhibited by the range of posters on cc.com. But while there's lots of chaff, there's also some incredible wisdom. I'm sure you're already figuring out who is who here. Point of clarification: The Spo Mounties are autonomous from the westside Mountaineers organization. While the Spo Mounties look up to the Mountaineers as a big brother in many respects, a good number of Spo Mounties take pride in being independent and somewhat non-bureaucratic. Regardless, bureacracy is inherent in any organization, and the Spo Mounties still provide some great cc.com opportunities for photo-caption contests. Re. shops, don't overlook Mountain Goat Outfitters, an independent store at Sprague and Division, at the very heart and crossroads of Spokane. Interestingly the same exact location where Mountain Gear first started and I used to work. Both Mountain Goat and Mountain Gear have great selection and help. Even though I worked at MGear for 4+ years and since have done various contract work for them, I like to champion the little guy, and in this case it's deserved. It's important to spread the wealth around the community: Mountain Goat, Mountain Gear, and REI all have their place. Kit, I was in very much the same situation as you when I really got into climbing (like doing it almost every day as opposed to only a few times a year) more than 20 years ago: back in school, not much money, and had to figure out how to do it as efficiently as possible. I can help you out re. equipment and sources/resouces in the overall community. Re. books, FOTH is a good start. There's many others depending on what exactly you get into. And once you join the Spo Mounties, you can get 20% off Mountaineers Books. I've got other resources there for you as well. You'll meet, literally, some of the best people in the world as climbers. A good start are our own Spotly and High on Rock from Spokane, and select others on this board. Cheers, Steve Reynolds

I was trolling, but nothing I said was false. Gotcha there Ken, hook line and sinker (you too, Couloir). Don't know how you deduced all that about me...I may be a mofo, but I ain't cheap. And those that know me, know I'm pretty darned accepting--even of folks like you. Love ya Ken. I, as well as many others, have gone through the whole progression of belay devices as they've been introduced to climbers over the years: Sticht plates, Bachli Seilbremse, Lowe Tuber, Trango Pyramid, Grigri, ATC, Reverso, and the list goes on with multiple variations and permutations including several devices for today's thinner, lighter ropes. It'd be embarrasing to tell you all the belay/rap devices I have. Looking back over the past year, I've been using at least 4 different ones depending on the type of climbing and diameter of rope(s): Grigri, ATC-Guide, ATC-XP, Mini-Reverso. As with a lot of climbing gear, it's personal preference. I'm thankful today we have so many choices. Fig-8s still have their place. They're an indispensable tool for many in rescue, and they're still preferred by many rec climbers. Most important to know is that they're designed for rapping, not belaying, unless it's through the single hole in-line style like I mentioned before. Many out there still prefer 8's for rapping because of the amount of friction they place on the rope. In-line devices designed primarily for belaying produce a lot more friction for rapping--sometimes too much as most of you know--especially if you're rapping on two ropes of medium to large diameter. Mullster: I can see that your team forbids fig-8 belaying, but I'm interested in knowing why your team "highly discourages them for rappelling." Who's your "team?" In terms of weight, steel 8's designed for rescue may be heavy, but not 8's designed for regular climbing. Comparative weights of common belay/rap devices: BD Super 8 (a Fig-8 that also allows in-line style belaying): 87 g ATC: 50 g Reverso: 81 g ATC-Guide: 103 g Grigri: 225 g Ketch's question has essentially been answered, especially for those that actually read the link provided by Kurt. I've never heard of a good fig-8 failing outside of normal use. The "breakings" in the article weren't "when a fig 8 device busted the side out of a biner," as Ketch corrected himself, but--in two cases--a small part of the sleeve of a locking biner breaking because of triaxial or non-end-to-end loading caused by operator error. I originally replied because it was obvious there was some misunderstanding and whining going on, without a more balanced view. As mentioned, it comes down to knowing your equipment and it's limitations, being attentive, and thinking clearly and objectively. --pindude, Defender of the Figure-Eight

Pansies! Before the advent of heat-dissipating in-line devices, many of us used fig-8s for years (even decades for those of us older guys) to rap. In all the years I used them, I never had a rope lock up on my fig-8, nor did I ever have undue twists in my rope due to rapping. Folks must be doing some strange things. And you can safely belay with a Fig-8 provided the small hole is large enough it can be used like an in-line device. Fish on!

Climbing articles have appeared in the WSJ previously. Now that climbing is considered more mainstream, at least in the western world (compared to even 10 years ago), I would expect to see more. Thanks for pointing this out, and to Winter for posting the article. Armando is a great, stand-up guy who regularly helps others. With Castro's demise apparently eminent, perhaps we'll see some big changes coming down the road in Cuba, especially in regard to climbing and the attitude of their government and general culture toward it.

What I can pass on: Much has been printed in the local paper, and much is known by the climbers who frequent the Rocks of Sharon. I don’t want to screw the pooch, as the real estate deal that will save Big Rock and the RoS is presently in closing, and should happen “sometime later this month.” If/when it does, Big Rock and much of the property containing the Rocks of Sharon will transfer from private hands to public. We’ll all know when it happens, as the news will be publicized and there will be a public ceremony. Access has not been an issue for climbers and others who show respect when entering the area, and we as climbers have tried to keep a low public profile since the PR debacle two years ago. I don’t have Marty’s book in front of me; indeed it shouldn’t be any different from the time his book was printed: from the Palouse Highway, follow Stevens Creek Road to the south. However, it should be pointed out the couple spots near the end of the road where parking is acceptable. I tried to place markers for these 2 park spots in Google Earth’s Community layer, but didn’t have the patience. Here’s coordinates you can punch in: Parking Spot #1: 47 deg. 34’ 06.8” N, 17 deg. 17’ 22.1” W For vehicles without clearance this spot is just before a small ditch an adjacent property owner had to dig to drain flood water from his property. When the property is purchased, we’ll have to place a culvert here. The road is the middle fork you come to at the end of the public portion of the road. Parking spot #2: 47 deg. 34’ 21.9” N, 17 deg. 17’ 22.2” W Only about 5’ walking distance away from parking spot #1, this spot is for high-clearance vehicles that can clear the ditch—a Toyota 4WD P/U can, a Subaru can’t. It’s the large, fairly level bladed-out area just south of Big Rock. Please don’t drive beyond this up the hill; it’s only about a 10’ hike uphill to Big Rock from here. This will likely be the established parking area once the property is in public hands. Regarding the the $46,000, and for those of you who would like to donate or become involved: The $46K amount is what was promised to be paid in addition to the land being swapped in order to obtain the 80-acre Rocks of Sharon parcel. The Spokane Mountaineers as a club have pledged to make up any difference in the $46K amount needed, so that is not an issue that would keep the deal from taking place. Outside of the club, many individuals have donated—and others have expressed intent to donate—to contribute to the $46K needed. The Spo Mounties don’t want to take away the opportunity from any individuals who would like to make a tax-deductible contribution and be a part of this important conservation effort. The payment of the $46,000 will be part of the closing, thus the original announcement by the Spo Mounties for individuals to donate by Sept. 9. The announcement has not been updated, but because the closing date has been pushed back, individuals still have the opportunity to donate. I don’t know of a drop-dead date. The property will be part of the overall public reserve managed by the Dishman Hills Natural Area Association, who also provided the acreage for which the RoS is being swapped for. They are a 501©3 nonprofit, while the Spo Mounties are not; thus the DHNAA is more appropriate to receive all money for this project. As mentioned at the Spo Mounties website, checks should be made out to the DHNAA—you should also reference the Rocks of Sharon acquisition and the Spokane Mountaineers. Once the deal is closed, we’ll have much work to do to rehab the area and provide for appropriate parking and access. If more than the $46K is collected, that will go toward the improvements that will need to be made. If you’re interested in helping out you can contact me or the Spo Mounties. Sorry to hear about the new graffiti at Minne's Don Q. I'm sure it will get removed before or during next spring's cleanup. Steve Reynolds

Of course you're welcome to come here olyclimber. Big drive, ha! You can practically coast coming off the Cascade crest. Drive time from Seattle is about 4 hours, but I hear a lot of folks claim they do it in less than 3. I don't have good accessible pics I can easily post, but am sure others will oblige.

OK, I think some order is being restored in the Spokane area. Turns out the person responsible for many of the bolts being removed up top—but perhaps not all—is a long-time honored denizen of the Spokane climbing scene, and a good friend of mine. While this person indeed was cleaning up with the best of intentions, and is likely the person who does the most cleaning up of trash and weeds (Minne has a huge knapweed problem) on a regular basis, they were removing selective bolts without previously speaking with others of us who climb and do the greatest share of teaching and training there. It's true there has been a proliferation of bolts on top of Minne in the last few years. At this point, we’re moving forward and taking the opportunity to ensure we have the minimum amount of sound anchors for the variety of the uses seen out at Minne—instruction for climbing, belaying, rappelling and rescue, rescue training, top-roping, and leading. So we’ll start with the anchors on top, and then move onto the faces, where there are many bolts that are old and need to be replaced, and where discussion and consensus will be reached before any new bolts are added. There are also questions of how we can better manage Minne and the overall park. I don’t necessarily want to be the point person, as this should be democratic, but I’m willing to start the ball rolling. Anyone interested is willing to contact me. I apologize for coming on strong in the first place, and for offending anyone, including especially Dave, Marty, and other eastern Washington climbers. In my last post I wrote that McLellan is “not destination-worthy for out-of-towners,” in part because that was my belief, but even more so because I’d like to see the area protected for at least the local climbers. Talking to Dave, and he’s right, McLellan is destination-worthy, as well as a lot of other Spokane-area climbing. He describes it as world-class, and it’s true. I take for granted that we have so many places to crag around here, not just in the surrounding area within a couple hours’ drive, but also within the metropolitan Spokane-Coeur d’Alene area. Nearby and close enough for lunchtime or evening climbing we’ve got Minnehaha, Dishman, Deep Creek, Post Falls (Q’emiln Park), and Tubbs Hill. Within an hour or even half-hour for many folks are the Rocks of Sharon, McLellan, and Tum Tum. A couple hours away or less are Metaline Falls, China Bend, Laclede, the Pend Orielle area, and the central Washington desert area including Frenchman Coulee and Banks Lake. The aforementioned include a variety of rock types: granite, limestone, basalt. A day trip in our area will get you on the Selkirk Crest, including Chimney Rock, for stellar alpine granite. Weekend trips from Spokane-CDA and the list is endless, and includes incredible alpine in 4 states and 2 provinces. So, out-of-towners, feel welcome to climb around here. We've got plenty of cragging to go around. Yeah, do have it good here in our area, and good is going to come out of the question I initially raised here.

This'll probably disappoint you Iain... I climbed out at McLellan today, which is a small, quiet untrodden crag that sees very little traffic. It's not destination-worthy for out-of-towners, believe me, but is a peaceful, mostly natural area, perfect for us locals for a half-day or evening. I've had a very small hand in a couple of the routes out there, but by and large the person who can take the most credit for the area is Dave Stephens. Short single-pitch granite, mostly sport and some cracks. State Parks-owned. Named after the McLellan family who live in the area, some of whom are climbers themselves, and incidentally are related to my main climbing partner. McLellan is developed so that it's made for lead climbing with lower-offs so the sensitive top areas of the rock aren't impacted. Well thought out, and the opposite of Minne. My partner and I were the only ones out there , and I gotta mention that in the middle of my thrashing around, Dave, Arden, and Tizzy walked up. We had a good discussion and made peace. Thanks, Dave. Now I just need to meet Marty away from cc.com and in person.

Iain said: Yes, very entertaining. Looks like I'm not going to get any on-topic answers here, but at least it’s good for quite a few laughs. A few things to respond to here, sorry I’m not going to take the time to come up with a song for you all. Bigbro said: Some people on this site...Dave and Marty? You've got to be kidding. Two things: The posters on cc.com are not representative of all Spokane area climbers, and Dave and Marty represent the extreme fringe of the narrower sport climbing community—they certainly do NOT represent “low impact” climbing! Talk to me in person, Bigbro: I’ll objectively enlighten you. I like virtually all types of climbing, from trad to sport, and I have always believed in low-impact climbing. Yes, 5 anchors is excessive. I’ve never put in 5 anchors above a line, nor have I been with folks who have done so. (Yes, I’d like to know the route fatboy was referring to with 5 anchors, too.) When bolts on top of Minne’s walls have been replaced over the last 20 years, myself and the others I’ve worked with have done it judiciously. In several instances at the top of Minne, other folks have added additional bolts mostly at the very edge, I’m assuming because they don’t want to use longer slings to rig TR setups. Bottom line is this: For safe instruction, for beginners learning how to climb, rappel, and belay, and to teach and train for rescue techniques (professional and volunteer rescue org’s), you need SOME anchors that are placed AWAY from the very edge. At the top of Minne, there are few opportunities to place artificial pro—thus the need for bolts on top. And I'm talking about anchors away from the edge not on all routes, but intermittently on a few spread out over mostly the main cliff as you go from end to end. The very urban crag of Minne has traditionally been an instructional/learning area for the uses I’ve listed, and is THE area for such in the greater area. It was saved from development (the property was purchased and turned into a public park) by the very climbers and rescue folks who teach and train there. Minne traditionally has, and continues to be, "cleaned up" both informally and formally by many including myself. Minne was massively cleaned up—graffiti and garbage removal, among other things—in a $50,000, 200+ person effort 4 years ago by the overall community. Were Marty or Dave/Roadstead ever involved in any these purchase/clean-up efforts at Minne? Have they done anything to improve or confirm access or clean up other areas? Interestingly, when the bolts on top were chopped 2 years ago, and we needed to replace them then, fatboy was among the first to offer his rotodrill to do the work—which I appreciate. When we replace the missing bolts, we will again do it judiciously and minimize the impact with the bottom line of safety in mind. Roadstead/Dave Stephens said: Marty Bland said: Dave, Marty: I never thought the two of you or those in either of our climbing circles had anything to do with the bolts being removed from the top of Minne. This is a strange case where some maverick who hasn’t a clue thinks he’s doing the right thing. Generally, I am diplomatic, and in both your cases over the past few years I’ve held back to give you both the benefit of the doubt and to prove yourselves. Well, prove yourself you both do, but of what I’ll let you each figure it out. I give up on you two. Dave, you say I “don’t care about McLellan?” Where did you get that? What in hell are you rambling on about? Never mind, I don’t need to hear a response from you. Marty, the topic I’ve brought up here has nothing at all to do with Dishman. It’s even more different than apples and oranges. Your Dishman “anti-bolt cleanup party” would not have happened had you and others shown up like you said you were going to. Another act of dishonor for you in a long list: jeopardizing our climbing access to certain crags, chipping and placing artificial holds on lines you can’t climb, stealing other’s projects, constantly dissing other climbers and generally stirring up dissension, to name a few. And I've been dealing with missing/chopped bolts since before you started climbing. Both of you do the most to put the joke in Eastern Washington climbing on this board, and skew the IQ on this side of the Cascade crest. I could go on, but won’t. I don’t have the time to waste, and I’m not going to respond to any more illogical, antagonistic, off-topic personal attacks by the likes of Dave Stephens and Marty Bland. On the other side of the coin, thanks for your support Val and others. I no longer expect to discover the answer to my question on cc.com; I’m sure I’ll find the answer on my own sooner or later. Meanwhile on this board, feel free to entertain including posting any of your favorite songs.

Dave, "New bolt cop"? I'm not sure what you're talking about. Unless you're just giving me a gentle elbow in the ribs, then you got me. Bolt placement at Minne normally has been a cooperative, community effort, especially the TR anchors up on top. I may be jumping on this issue, which may now make me some sort of bolt cop, but I'm certainly not doing it in a vacuum, isolated from others. I can't remember what we talked about a couple years ago. Sport rappellers aren't that common around there anymore that I've noticed--I've seen just a couple instances in the last 2 years. Regardless, I don't think sport rappers have anything to do with placing or removing Minne's bolts. While Paul's biz has continued to grow and he sells to climbers far beyond Spokane, I know he still cares very much about Minne. Paul, as well as Lon at Mountain Goat, have indeed offered bolts and hangers at cost when bolts/hangers have been vandalized before: but that still ain't free for the likes of me. That's still money (and time) out of myself and others, not to mention the cost of the drill and bits as you know. Most of the anchors I've placed on top, and for all of the few new routes I've worked on, I've paid retail. Thanks for wishing me luck, I hope I don't need it. ****** This same act of bolt removal of TR anchors up top at Minne occurred 2-3 years ago the with the person(s) first identifying the bolts and hangers they were to remove by spraying them with red paint, then removing them several days later. Those anchors were replaced by myself and a few other climbers. The anchors that have been removed--both a couple years ago and most recently--are essential and used for at least 2 purposes: 1. Instruction (belaying, rappelling, tethering away from the edge) for many programs including those for area high schools, colleges, and several other groups. 2. Anchors for those who have led a particular route and need to clip in AWAY from the edge at the top of a route. Whoever is doing the removal may not be doing it with malicious intentions, and is possibly trying to do what they may think is environmentally correct: They are removing the hangers, chopping off the bolts/studs flush at the rock, and then covering them up with some sort of glue and dirt...obviously trying to do a "good job" of hiding any trace or scars from the original bolts. They are doing this above routes that typically have two bolts near the very edge, such that the bolts being removed are the 3rd and 4th bolts above a particular line furthest away from the edge. Whatever the intentions, these actions are misguided and are nothing more than vandalism. The removed anchors will be replaced, and I'd like to at least get the removed hangers back. If any of you know who the responsible person(s) is, please contact me directly. I'm not out to crucify anyone, but rather speak with and educate whoever is doing this. If necessary, I will be discreet. I and other individuals, with the help of other climbers and the outdoor shops of Mountain Gear and Mountain Goat, and all the groups who use Minne as a venue to teach, have an investment (financial and otherwise) in these anchors.

In the last 30 days or so, somebody has chopped up to a dozen or more bolts used for anchors at the top of the walls at Minnehaha Rocks-Shields Park in Spokane. These are not bolts near the edge, and are typically those that are further back and several feet further away from the edge. This same act occured about 2-3 years ago, with the person(s) first identifying the bolts and hangers they were going to remove by spray-painting them, and then subsequently removing them days later. Whoever you are: 1. Cease and desist your bolt and hanger removal 2. Identify yourself 3. Explain your actions This forum is appropriate for response, but you are also welcome to contact me directly. Steve Reynolds Mead, WA

sobo said: Back in town just for a few days. Thanks for the kudos, although I know I'm surely not the only "voice of reason" around here (you, Matt, PP, in his own way Dru, others), and I'm perfectly capable of descending into the depths myself. I decided a while ago to stay out of the cacaphony part and any name-calling unless it was for a really special occasion. I don't have the opportunity or time to monitor on-going exchanges; for me it's much more productive to say my piece and jump out. I missed hooking up with ya too last summer, Paul. Same job has me traveling again way out of town, this time in several-week chunks. Quite often away from easy internet access and sometimes even out of cell phone range. Leaves little time for real stuff like climbing, skiing and general playing in the mountains...I'd really like to have a different job with more predictability and real time for myself. AlpineK said: I like his style too. It's the style of just a few others that leaves much to be desired.

It's 45 minutes of easy trail with good views. The destination is worthy so suck it up. It's a trail and it will have snow on it now. What kind of beta do you need? Consider parking your bike at the Roothan Saddle, the last 1/8 mile might be pretty rough. Chimney has no motorized restriction or anything, but leave the dirt bike at home. It's an easy approach. Hi Martin, glad you're ripping it up on the west side. Wishing you and M well. Good answer. Used to be a sign at the standard west-side TH where the old Horton Ridge Lookout once stood: sign long since gone and never replaced. My understanding is that much if not all of the Selkirk Crest IS off-limits to motorized vehicles, including Roothann and Chimney. This can be easily confirmed by contacting the Priest Lake RD. Regardless Donny, your buddy was blowing smoke. In practicality, ground access to the base of Chimney can only be done by the 2- and 4-legged variety of transpo. Just a few years ago a buddy of mine tried to get a quad or dirtbike in close, and realized after a few days of recon that it wasn’t close to feasible. While I like dirtbiking and 4-wheeling, the Chimney area isn't the place for it. You’ll appreciate the place more once you're there. It's easy to get off-route on the approach, both by vehicle and hiking. The summitpost.com beta is confusing and not entirely accurate, and needs to be updated. PM me Donny, and I'll be glad to give you accurate approach beta. Steve in Mead

Spoke with author and editor. "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" should be out on shelves this spring, hopefully in March. Alpine climbs will not be covered, but Banks Lake and nearby Central WA cragging areas will. Includes sport, trad, and mixed routes up to 3-4 pitches in length. The author, friends who have helped, and especially the editor are taking great care to ensure a quality product. Interestingly, Falcon and the Mountaineers declined to publish this guide. Thanks to Mountain Gear for picking up the slack. My personal opinion is that the guide will provide a great alternative for those of you who like to go weekend cragging and want to get away from the concentration of climbers at places like Frenchman Coulee. Many of the areas in the book have seen decades of climbing, but most of the routes are more recent, and eyes will be further opened to the potential of the central Columbia basin. I don’t think the Banks Lake area will become another Vantage, for many reasons including its lack of proximity to the greater populations in the NW, and all the high-quality climbing areas we have to choose from. The quality of the columnar basalt upstream of FC is varied, and the underlying granitic gneiss exposed around Banks Lake and Northrup Canyon can be chossy. Climbers will have to be careful for loose rock features, especially until the newer routes see more traffic. Poison ivy and the occasional rattler need to be avoided. All that said, the Banks Lake area has its own identity and is stunningly beautiful. The quality of the rock in Central WA can be excellent, and there are many stellar routes that are well worth the travel.

Since the original posted question, your reponse Matt is the most accurate by far. I don't know much more, but will spill what I do. Can't remember the title, but the guide will cover mostly crag climbs on basalt and granite in the greater Banks Lk area, plus some nearby alpine climbs. Climbs/routes not previously covered in other guides, many new, but certainly the book will not be nearly as big as a Beckey tome. Author is Rick LaBelle, publisher is Mountain Gear. Serious formatting issues have delayed the printing. I'll ask Rick for a more definitive answer, but won't be able to post until at least Friday. Meanwhile, if you're really hot to know, MGear could probably give you an answer during the business day. Chimney Rock (Idaho) is not covered in this guide, and still needs to be updated since Randy Green's 1987 effort. Cheers, Steve

Try this one, then, if your lookin to get your stoke on. Many of you have probably seen it, but it's still good on a tenth, etc. viewing. And done relatively locally (by Bill Heath of Nelson, BC). Snow Falling on Sinners select clips from above movie

Ladyrose, PM'ed you: am glad to give you straight info on the club and our outdoors community in general. Hope you're able to get out there and enjoy all this great new snow. --Steve

During the cleanup last Sunday, a dozen or so folks cleaned up at least two tons of garbage, hauled out 2 old car/truck hulks, and established a temporary barrier (temporary in regard to working with landowners to put in a permanent gate) to help keep folks from being able to dump trash in the parking and climbing areas. After these initial cleanup efforts were done, removed were the artificial holds and bolts next to protectable cracks. No one showed up at the cleanup among those present at the REI meet (when it was agreed to do a cleanup) who spoke out in favor of the chipping, artificial hold gluing, crack-bolting, and route names written on the wall in semi-permanent marker--all of which (I shouldn't have to add) are obviously NOT considered ethical by consensus of the general climbing community. The idea of the cleanup was to get folks together for those who will take responsibility for the crag. The hope has been for the entire climbing community to work together with the landowner and public agencies. So someone (or more) already dismantled the temporary vehicle barrier, rebolted the cracks, and bolted back on to the rock an artificial gym hold. Yes, unfortunately one of the rewards for cowardly, irresponsible acts may well be to have the crag closed.