pindude

Powderhound, I'm guessing you're referring to Chimney Rock, WA. Come to Chimney Rock, ID (what the OP is referring to), and bring your skis. Ghoulwe and Tim, I just got word that a friend last weekend drove up the Hunt Creek-Horton Ridge Road east from Priest Lake, and was able to drive to about a mile from the old lookout. He spent the day skiing the slopes of Roothann. I hope to be doing the same tomorrow, Saturday, before the forecasted T-storms move in. I would expect Chimney Rock climbers this year will be approaching on snow through July, if not into August.

Dane, Just found this thread. I'd been thinking about you too and wondering why you were quiet. I'm so sorry, but I'm glad you're on the mend. Sobo, thanks for going above and beyond. Good thing you weren't hurt too. Very brave act. Dane, your fall is a shock. For all the times I saw you easily and casually climbing years ago at Minne, sans or with rope, you were an inspiration--not sure if you knew. Maybe it was my late, formal intro to roped climbing by you (relatively speaking, I was in my mid-20s and up to then had dabbled with roped rock climbing and solod up to easy 5th class alpine), but some of your confidence, assurance, and exuberance for rock rubbed off on me: after your intro the bug really caught me and I climbed as often as I could, bouldering, top-roping, learning to lead better, and even highballing a little. Generally though, I've been fairly conservative. I personally haven't suffered any great injuries, so it really gives me pause. Added to it is that Fault to Catapult is one of my Castle faves. Wishing you the best on your recovery, and that you heal quickly.

You can do just about anything with duct tape. Goran's weight (about 220# if I remember right) in a haul bag, with the same pro he had in, as best they could re-create it. Synopsis here , original long accident thread here . An awful tragedy. RIP, Goran.

Yes, Jordrop, breaking them is a slight concern. After the first winter season I had them, I decided to use them only for BC and touring, not in-bounds, where I'm a little less crazy. I also never use wrist leashes, in- or out-of-bounds, primarily to avoid shoulder/arm/hand injuries in a potential fall. I broke the lower shaft of one of the CF poles in-bounds the first year I had them. When linking slalom turns straight down a fall line, a snowboarder going faster and banking a big GS turn was about to collide with me on the same side I had just pole-planted, and I had to throw in a quick turn in the opposite direction instead, before I could completely remove the pole. I skied right over it near the basket. My edge didn't chop the planted pole in two, but it sure broke it...a new, replacement lower shaft at retail was more $ than I originally paid for the pair.

Right on, AlpinFox. Funny how that rumor that it was Goran's persisted all this time. AlpineMonkey, I gave that second-gen (ca. 1988) #2 Camalot to Mike G. and Lee D. when they tried to re-create Goran's accident. It's all yours--you can give me beer or money if you want. Haven't tried the water trick yet: will have to next time I get the opportunity.

I had a pair about 20 years ago, but lost one pole when it fell off a roof rack somewhere on I-90. The other pole still lives on as a mismatched pair used by a ski partner. If you're looking to save weight, why not go carbon fiber? I've got a pair of BD carbon fibers I've had now for about 7-8 years.

I, too, doubt it's the fumaroles, and if I were you I'd pay attention to potential HAPE and other high altitude problems next time you go high. HAPE diagnoses are not uncommon at elevations of Hood or lower. Part of it is the elevation you originally were acclimated to, and have traveled from, to do your volcanoes. I'll describe a situation I went through in the chance it'll give you some info to go by. A couple years ago I met my brother, who lives and works in the Bay area, on a Friday evening at Tuolumne. He had driven straight from work to get to us. We left early the next morning and climbed Cathedral, which is just shy of 11,000. He showed signs of AMS (Acute Mtn Sickness) near the summit: lethargy, short of breath, not 100% there cognitively--but improved dramatically on the descent and seemed to be his old self. We camped again at Tuolumne that night, which is at 7500 ft. He awoke in the morning after a really bad sleep, and described rales in one of his lungs: a clicking, rattling, or bubbling sound, caused by fluid. He felt it in one lung only, and tried to compensate for it by sleeping on the other side. We knew his vacation at Tuolumne was over, and the best thing was for him was to head back down to sea level, where his HAPE cleared up after a couple days. Personally I do very well at altitude most of the time, but I've also had a few times when I got AMS and had my ass handed to me. My response to altitude, and others I've noticed, is not consistent--and even with good conditioning--seems to vary widely.

I remember as a young kid in the 60s, when I was home on Saturdays at 4 pm and not skiing or involved in some team sport activity, running inside to catch ABC's Wide World of Sports. Through that show, and other sports programs Jim McKay anchored, he introduced me to an incredible variety of outdoor activities and locations, some of which I've tried and/or traveled to. As a sportscaster, he humbly, simply, and effectively communicated what it was like to be involved in those activities. Some were obscure, and included: * Acapulco cliff diving * Vanuatu vine jumping (precursor to bungee jumping) * Iditarod dog racing * Olympics - skiing * horse racing * Little League World Series (I played Little League and other ball in Seattle) - who remembers underdog Kirkland finally beating Taiwan in the finals in the early 80s? * rock climbing even - I missed this one: but my mom saw on WWOS someone climbing on Monkey Face, also in the 80s, and giving her a little more understanding of what I was into. His voice was THE voice of sports through all of my life, and still resonates. Knowing he was a big thoroughbred racing fan, I'm surprised he didn't stay with us long enough to know how Big Brown did today. To Jim McKay

I'm tired of being wet...

I couldn't agree with Fender4 or Winter more: thanks guys for your words. John David Jr, you come off as emotional and shrill. Sounds like you have no idea what the AAC is all about, nor the full issues surrounding Gunks camping. I'm a long-time AAC member: like Fender4 the vast majority of us certainly aren't jet-setters nor have any interest in vacation homes, and like this dirt-bagger (me) take advantage of AAC benefits such as worldwide rescue insurance, reduced rates on some lodging (in particular the AAC Teton Climbers' Ranch and reciprocity with the ACC-Alpine Club of Canada), and staying informed and being involved in regard to regional and national climbing issues. Perhaps you should consider joining too, so you can learn more and if you want to effect change, do it from within.

Erden, Welcome back and congratulations! Good call to go onboard the Champion 52. This latest leg of your journey, with all your time in convergence zones and the new typhoon season, was to me the most anxious yet. I was rooting for you to get to New Guinea for the possibility of Carstenz, but more importantly am glad you're epic wasn't an even bigger one, and you're safe and heading home. Cheers, Steve Reynolds

Carolyn, Sorry to hear. I know nothing about immobilizers, but more importantly think you may need another opinion by a specialist. I understand you're working within your county medical system. Even though your GP may be doing his best, I think you really need to be seen by a specialist: an orthopedist, preferably one who specializes further in knees. Any way you can get a referral to one? Experience and knowledge, and the ability to diagnose, varies greatly by doc's. I may be overreacting, but I'm troubled by your GP's inability to interpret your X-Ray. I'm also surprised he didn't make a referral or at least consult with a second MD if he couldn't read it. While I myself know no more than basic first aid, I'm grateful I'm surrounded in my immediate and greater family by a bunch of health pros: while our health care system is royally screwed up, at least when I or my immediate family have needed it, we've been able to find the best specialist to receive the best possible care here in the Pacific NW. I know the Twin Cities area is renowned for it's health care as well. Good luck with it all.

At Laclede we've got Weasels Ripped My Flesh Part 1 (first pitch), and Weasels Ripped My Flesh Part 2 (second pitch): a very worthwhile climb. Is creative album art dying out? Most of the stuff I can think of is classic and older: maybe it's just my age, and I don't know much of the more obscure stuff. I kind of had a theme going. This last one reminds me of the ending scene of Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey

The Miss-ooh-la-la area has it all--rock, ice, mountains. I don't know much, but Blodgett is nearby (granite multi-pitch), and there's several other areas. At least two gyms: Missoula Rock Garden and another at the U. Good hills/trails to run/bike right out of town. Trailhead is the shop. Lots of climbing choices within a reasonable driving distance; don't know what exists in or just adjacent to town as far as pulling down goes. But the world is at your fingertips around Missoula. I heard a rumor JoJo was going to release soon a climbing guide for the area: if he is, no doubt it'll be worthwhile. The school has a good rep, especially for certain disciplines. What're ya gonna study?

What are your favorite songs where climbing is a part of the lyrics, or at least it's alluded to? Reason I ask is that that in the last week, by chance (music picked out by others), I've heard three songs that were about climbing, or at least mountains were referred to. I don't think there are too many out there. Those 3 I recently heard: Fearless - Pink Floyd (Meddle) South Side of the Sky - Yes (Fragile) Fat Man - Jethro Tull (Stand Up) Yah, I know mine are old skool. Hopefully y'all can come up with some newer stuff. And Fat Man is a little bit of a stretch, but "mountain" is in the lyrics.

Sounds like a lot of fun, J. I'll have to find a new job first, but I'll be thinking about you. I've wanted to get back into the Sawtooths since I was lightninged off several times in the span of a week about 12 years ago (on that trip fortunately I brought a mountain bike, and also discovered several hot springs), and was chased away again by lightning more recently. Both times in August, so good luck on the weather.

Friends are on Fairweather right now: they're using Paul Swanstrom of Alaska Mountain Flying Service out of Haines. He's gone above and beyond to accommodate their constantly changing schedule because of weather and avy concerns. http://www.flyglacierbay.com/ Sorry I can't help you with weather forecasting. Indeed NOAA doesn't have the same forecasting for St. Elias compared to what we're used to in the Cascades. You've likely seen the NPS page for St. Elias: http://www.nps.gov/archive/wrst/eliasrng.html I'd speak directly to a ranger at one of the phone numbers listed at the bottom of the page, and/or ask when speaking to one of the pilot services, including Swanstrom, to know what weather sources they use.

Today is Erden's 300th day at sea, and in 5 more he'll break the record for longest solo rowing ocean voyage. As Wayne said, he's now planning to head toward the Phillipines, but that's still more than 1,000 nm away--at least another month and possibly up to two. With the strange convergence zones and doldrums around the equator, Erden's still just north of zero degrees latitude. To get to the Phillipines, he needs to bear west and a little north. Most recently he's actually headed closer to the equator and is about as far south as he's been. With the extra number of days at sea, Erden will be resupplied soon. Of concerns are storms, hidden atolls, and ships in the shipping lane he's now in. Godspeed and God Bless, Erden! http://www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/ano/ http://www.oceanrowing.com/ErdenEruc_Pacific/dist.htm

Dane, you pissed off whiner, you! Seriously, I know you know the score, and while woodchips has legit concerns, I'm pointing out two obvious items since Graham's big laying-it-out-there message of a week ago: (1) it's a full week shipping time between NY and Puget Sound, so give it a few more days. (2) If woodchipper hasn't received the item in a few more days, then he should make an attempt to contact Graham directly. If then there's no response from Graham, then truly woodchipper may have reason to be pissed. I'm not saying woodchips is one of them, but I've seen too many whine on the net about manufacturers. Sometimes it's legit, and sometimes it's not. On the positive side, the net is a great tool for the consumer, especially when dealing with the nameless, big entities and companies out there that don't care. I think Graham does care. And while he's had his problems, I'd rather give him the benefit of the doubt and give him a chance.

Patience. Yes, you have concerns but with Graham in NY, you've got to expect at least a full week's shipping time: that's exactly when he made his big response to you, so you haven't given him time to do the actual repair/sewing. You've called him out, he responded just 7 days ago, and he's obviously under some big stresses. I'd wager you'll see the pack in the next few days. If you think more communication is in order, then call him and speak to him directly before you air it again here. You're starting to sound like a whiner. Not to be cutting extra slack, but shit is more likely to happen to the little guys, and I always try to be more understanding of their situations. Each of the two times I had a pack repaired by someone other than the local repair guru, I've had to wait long periods: once for a whole year by one of the best top-end specialty pack manufacturers, and the second time for 6 months by a different "little guy" on the east coast. Each time I was concerned, but each time there was communication such that in end I was happy to have received much better packs than what I'd originally sent. I doubt I would have had the same outcome if I hadn't been persistent in my own personal, direct communication and I'd been airing all my worries over an internet forum.

How not to climb, or fall... 5oKnkp5KSCQ

I spoke with another climbing ranger yesterday. New/updated info: 1. Road is expected to be plowed up to the Cougar Sno-Park by the weekend. If I remember right, Cougar Sno-Park is at the junction where Road 830 forks left to Climbers Bivy, and Road 83 continues to the right/east to the Marble Mount Sno-Park. This would still leave about 5 extra miles one way. 2. Last Saturday, from the plowed end of Road 83, 61 rigs parallel-parked for a mile-long stretch. Almost all rigs were snowmobile-related. More expected this weekend. 3. According to the ranger, the trail to Climbers Bivy is shared between sledders and climbers/skiers. If a line is drawn from Climber's Bivy to the summit, sledders are to stay to the west and out of the corridor that climbers take to the summit. 4. Fine for not having a climbing permit above 4800' is $100. The climbing rangers do patrol it. I've made it to the mountain about half of the years over the last 20, almost always this same weekend just coming up, and most of those times I've seen a ranger on the mountain. This year I'm not going due to the access issues at St. H and the great abundance of snow I still have in the mountains here in eastern WA/north ID. As far as the Mt. St. Helens Institute is concerned, as a 501©(3) nonprofit their financials and other info are a matter of public record, and it's freely available on the web if you know where to look. I'm reluctant to spray hard or critically about any organization for whom I haven't studied or don't have the full facts, especially a nonprofit. (Like belaying off Nalgene loops, spraying ill-informedly about others or organizations is a hot-button issue for me, and what coaxed me out of lurkdom and onto cc.com in the first place. ) The Mt. St. H. Institute started collecting climbing fees last year, so we should have already started seeing how it comes back to us as climbers. I haven't been to St. H. for a couple years, so haven't seen it first hand. From a national nonprofit reporting organization, St. H. Institute claims the following: Accomplishments for Fiscal Year Ending December 31, 2007 - Repaired and cleaned 87 miles of trails with over 250 volunteers - Supported 15,000 Mount St. Helens climbers with permits, education, trail maintanance and climbing brochures - Volunteer Docents were available to provide education and lead short guided hikes for 500,000 visitors to the monument Objectives for Fiscal Year Beginning January 1, 2008 - Implement Kids in the Woods Volcano Explorers program to introduce elementary students to science in general and volcanoes specifically - Repair and clean 125 miles of trails with up to 400 volunteers equalling 3200 volunteer hours - Expand the Mountain Stewards Program to meet climber needs--recruit and train up to 20 Mountain Stewards and offer climbing support at least 5 days per week during the season. Equates to approximately 1500 volunteer hours over 4 months.

Yes. So who's the cornhole? Too funny.

Nice, Tim, glad you and your bud got out there and after it. Welcome back to Spokane and winter: it's snowing hard outside as I type this. Per your previous thread, what rope system did you end up using? Packs? Any hauling? Must not have been too much sniveling and groveling or I think you'd have written about it. Cheers, Steve

methinks that if a Nalgene bottle flies by your head it's more likely that someone put it down on the snow or ground next to them and it took off, rather than the lid strap breaking. True, but straps still break, especially on the single liter size. It's no joke when they go flying by your or another's head whether the strap breaks or they're plain fumbled. Other gear too of course. I've spent a bit of time with large groups of new climbers in the alpine, but I've also had water bottle loops break with climbers/partners who knew better. It happens, no doubt. Enough. Just don't do it, young 'uns.