pindude

To the ignorant and uninformed, it especially appears to do that.

Congratz Paul. My bro-in-law's firm did the historic Monroe St. Bridge reconstruction recently here in Spokane. Also one of my Structural Engineer bud's got to work on the Golden Gate reconstruction as his very first job back in the early 80s, when they replaced all the rivets, among other things. When's construction start, and how long is long is your project scheduled to last? Hopefully you get enough time away not only for family, but to climb and play and not turn into a pumpkin. Cheers!

The Sounders rock. Porter, it may take a couple more generations, but soccer in the US will rival and perhaps surpass baseball and even our regular good ol' American football in popularity in this country. Both in terms of players and fans. I've been watching it grow since I was a young kid. Current Sounders Coach Brian Schmetzer and his family helped change the face of soccer right here in Seattle and the NW area. Brian's dad Walter started the Lake City soccer club in the late 60s in north Seattle and his teams instantly started winning state championships across several age divisions. Dad Walter not only coached but trained others to coach, under whose tutelage I not only learned good skills but those of general sportsmanship as well. My younger brother was fortunate enough to play directly under Walter and with Brian until our family moved back to eastern WA in 1972. As a young kid I grew up playing the traditional American football-basketball-baseball, but through the leadership of the Schmetzer family, many in our Lake City area learned to embrace soccer, at least as much as the trad US sports. It was the main sport I competitively played until well into my adult years. Here's an article Brian wrote about his story, with a couple pic's, of growing up with soccer in Seattle. I remember well those socks and playing in the rain and mud. Good times. GO SOUNDERS!!!

Good so see you up there on Saturday, Chad. Amazing how quickly even consolidated snow melts out in hot weather. At least we could get some great turns in on the north side of Roothann. For general info, the road is open (snow-free) to the Horton Ridge TH and location of the old lookout. Thanks to whoever winched or pulled aside the big log. If you go up during the week, there is logging so it would be cheap insurance to have and use a CB radio. A group of 4 local HS kids from Sandpoint camped at the TH at least on Friday night. Brings to mind there are no facilities up there and folks should know to practice good camping skills. Bears, both Black and Griz, requires storing coolers in vehicles. Bury your shit. Don't piss all over where others park and pitch tents. Know that since the demo of the old lookout there are a bunch of old 16-penny and larger nails above and just under the surface of the soil, just waiting to puncture your tires if you park near where the old lookout stood. The USFS has long neglected this very popular area. About time some action is taken to improve existing conditions.

McCallBoater and I climbed one of the right side faces almost 20 years ago. The front side faces aren't as steep as they look, and are chossy. Interesting sections with lack of good cracks and pro. Whereever it is you may be climbing on Quartzite, to get access get permission from any of the private property owners whose land surrounds the mountain. Locals--folks who run the ski area--climb on a crag on the opposite side of the valley from the view shown in the photo.

Right on, Canadadug, the Royal Arches-Crest Jewel link is even more primo. About 10 years ago I got passed on the final Arches pitch by a small group of Squish climbers who'd soloed Arches so they could do Crest Jewel later that evening in the full moonlight.

Braydon, The "pendulum" is actually a fixed sling (sometimes webbing, sometimes a short section of old rope) attached I believe with a bolt and hangar. It'll have a tied loop or two you'll clip a biner into. If you can't make the move free, it's merely a little French Free move. You can have your belayer put you on full tension with the rope using that sling while you traverse left to the ledge, and you can also grab the fixed sling as Serenity says. Yosemite ratings of difficulty are actually true. It's where the system of American ratings--originally called the Yosemite Decimal System--was popularized and refined. Generally, trad climb areas being established around the same time (50s to 70s, including Leavenworth, Index, Minnehaha in Spokane) tend to have ratings more similar to Yose. Other areas developed since the 80s, often more sport-climb-oriented (including Smith, Frenchman Coulee, and Q'emiln Park in Post Falls, ID), tend to have softer or inflated ratings. The original descent for the Arches is the North Dome Gully, which is on the other side of Washington Column from the Arches route. If you have to rap on that descent you're off route. With it's little bit of 4th class, or worse if you get off route, it's definitely not one to try and find in the dark. Especially if no one in your party has ever done it. However, some say you aren't getting the full Arches experience if you don't do the North Dome Gully descent, with it's hike up and over the Column and great views of Half Dome and that side of the Valley. Even if you do the newer rap descent, you HAVE to do the final friction traverse into The Jungle, not just to truly finish the route but also to refill your water bottles. A clarification: The raps don't start to the left of the finish of the route. The raps start at the belay anchors marking the beginning of the final, Friction Pitch that traverses in to The Jungle. It's "cheating," but you can fix your rope on the Friction Pitch so you can more easily reverse the traverse to get back to the rap anchors. You'll get the most karma points, though, if you don't fix the final traverse pitch, and both the leader and follower do the Friction Traverse standing up without any touching with your hands. Both ways. Have fun and good luck on freeing that move. --Steve

Both my potential partners bailed with the weather as it was this early a.m., and I hiked Rocks of Sharon instead. Not sure if the boss has me working through next weekend or not, but I hope to get up to Chimney-Roothann to ski in the next couple weeks while the snow is good. Chad, thanks for the heads-up on the log and the need for a saw. From the notes in the log, did you get the first ascent this season? Tim, snowmobilers were playing two weeks ago under the north face of Lion's Head, and the report I got from them is that they thought the area would be holding snow until well into the summer. Lion's Head is notoriously wet, including the classic 6-pitch Kittel-Pierce route, and some years never dries up. With all our snow I'm wondering if it'll dry up this year. Chimney Rock--sticking up on the Selkirk Crest of north Idaho--is definitely a lightning rod and a place I've bailed from at least a couple times as storms were moving in.

Powderhound, I'm guessing you're referring to Chimney Rock, WA. Come to Chimney Rock, ID (what the OP is referring to), and bring your skis. Ghoulwe and Tim, I just got word that a friend last weekend drove up the Hunt Creek-Horton Ridge Road east from Priest Lake, and was able to drive to about a mile from the old lookout. He spent the day skiing the slopes of Roothann. I hope to be doing the same tomorrow, Saturday, before the forecasted T-storms move in. I would expect Chimney Rock climbers this year will be approaching on snow through July, if not into August.

Dane, Just found this thread. I'd been thinking about you too and wondering why you were quiet. I'm so sorry, but I'm glad you're on the mend. Sobo, thanks for going above and beyond. Good thing you weren't hurt too. Very brave act. Dane, your fall is a shock. For all the times I saw you easily and casually climbing years ago at Minne, sans or with rope, you were an inspiration--not sure if you knew. Maybe it was my late, formal intro to roped climbing by you (relatively speaking, I was in my mid-20s and up to then had dabbled with roped rock climbing and solod up to easy 5th class alpine), but some of your confidence, assurance, and exuberance for rock rubbed off on me: after your intro the bug really caught me and I climbed as often as I could, bouldering, top-roping, learning to lead better, and even highballing a little. Generally though, I've been fairly conservative. I personally haven't suffered any great injuries, so it really gives me pause. Added to it is that Fault to Catapult is one of my Castle faves. Wishing you the best on your recovery, and that you heal quickly.

You can do just about anything with duct tape. Goran's weight (about 220# if I remember right) in a haul bag, with the same pro he had in, as best they could re-create it. Synopsis here , original long accident thread here . An awful tragedy. RIP, Goran.

Yes, Jordrop, breaking them is a slight concern. After the first winter season I had them, I decided to use them only for BC and touring, not in-bounds, where I'm a little less crazy. I also never use wrist leashes, in- or out-of-bounds, primarily to avoid shoulder/arm/hand injuries in a potential fall. I broke the lower shaft of one of the CF poles in-bounds the first year I had them. When linking slalom turns straight down a fall line, a snowboarder going faster and banking a big GS turn was about to collide with me on the same side I had just pole-planted, and I had to throw in a quick turn in the opposite direction instead, before I could completely remove the pole. I skied right over it near the basket. My edge didn't chop the planted pole in two, but it sure broke it...a new, replacement lower shaft at retail was more $ than I originally paid for the pair.

Right on, AlpinFox. Funny how that rumor that it was Goran's persisted all this time. AlpineMonkey, I gave that second-gen (ca. 1988) #2 Camalot to Mike G. and Lee D. when they tried to re-create Goran's accident. It's all yours--you can give me beer or money if you want. Haven't tried the water trick yet: will have to next time I get the opportunity.

I had a pair about 20 years ago, but lost one pole when it fell off a roof rack somewhere on I-90. The other pole still lives on as a mismatched pair used by a ski partner. If you're looking to save weight, why not go carbon fiber? I've got a pair of BD carbon fibers I've had now for about 7-8 years.

I, too, doubt it's the fumaroles, and if I were you I'd pay attention to potential HAPE and other high altitude problems next time you go high. HAPE diagnoses are not uncommon at elevations of Hood or lower. Part of it is the elevation you originally were acclimated to, and have traveled from, to do your volcanoes. I'll describe a situation I went through in the chance it'll give you some info to go by. A couple years ago I met my brother, who lives and works in the Bay area, on a Friday evening at Tuolumne. He had driven straight from work to get to us. We left early the next morning and climbed Cathedral, which is just shy of 11,000. He showed signs of AMS (Acute Mtn Sickness) near the summit: lethargy, short of breath, not 100% there cognitively--but improved dramatically on the descent and seemed to be his old self. We camped again at Tuolumne that night, which is at 7500 ft. He awoke in the morning after a really bad sleep, and described rales in one of his lungs: a clicking, rattling, or bubbling sound, caused by fluid. He felt it in one lung only, and tried to compensate for it by sleeping on the other side. We knew his vacation at Tuolumne was over, and the best thing was for him was to head back down to sea level, where his HAPE cleared up after a couple days. Personally I do very well at altitude most of the time, but I've also had a few times when I got AMS and had my ass handed to me. My response to altitude, and others I've noticed, is not consistent--and even with good conditioning--seems to vary widely.

I remember as a young kid in the 60s, when I was home on Saturdays at 4 pm and not skiing or involved in some team sport activity, running inside to catch ABC's Wide World of Sports. Through that show, and other sports programs Jim McKay anchored, he introduced me to an incredible variety of outdoor activities and locations, some of which I've tried and/or traveled to. As a sportscaster, he humbly, simply, and effectively communicated what it was like to be involved in those activities. Some were obscure, and included: * Acapulco cliff diving * Vanuatu vine jumping (precursor to bungee jumping) * Iditarod dog racing * Olympics - skiing * horse racing * Little League World Series (I played Little League and other ball in Seattle) - who remembers underdog Kirkland finally beating Taiwan in the finals in the early 80s? * rock climbing even - I missed this one: but my mom saw on WWOS someone climbing on Monkey Face, also in the 80s, and giving her a little more understanding of what I was into. His voice was THE voice of sports through all of my life, and still resonates. Knowing he was a big thoroughbred racing fan, I'm surprised he didn't stay with us long enough to know how Big Brown did today. To Jim McKay

I'm tired of being wet...

I couldn't agree with Fender4 or Winter more: thanks guys for your words. John David Jr, you come off as emotional and shrill. Sounds like you have no idea what the AAC is all about, nor the full issues surrounding Gunks camping. I'm a long-time AAC member: like Fender4 the vast majority of us certainly aren't jet-setters nor have any interest in vacation homes, and like this dirt-bagger (me) take advantage of AAC benefits such as worldwide rescue insurance, reduced rates on some lodging (in particular the AAC Teton Climbers' Ranch and reciprocity with the ACC-Alpine Club of Canada), and staying informed and being involved in regard to regional and national climbing issues. Perhaps you should consider joining too, so you can learn more and if you want to effect change, do it from within.

Erden, Welcome back and congratulations! Good call to go onboard the Champion 52. This latest leg of your journey, with all your time in convergence zones and the new typhoon season, was to me the most anxious yet. I was rooting for you to get to New Guinea for the possibility of Carstenz, but more importantly am glad you're epic wasn't an even bigger one, and you're safe and heading home. Cheers, Steve Reynolds

Carolyn, Sorry to hear. I know nothing about immobilizers, but more importantly think you may need another opinion by a specialist. I understand you're working within your county medical system. Even though your GP may be doing his best, I think you really need to be seen by a specialist: an orthopedist, preferably one who specializes further in knees. Any way you can get a referral to one? Experience and knowledge, and the ability to diagnose, varies greatly by doc's. I may be overreacting, but I'm troubled by your GP's inability to interpret your X-Ray. I'm also surprised he didn't make a referral or at least consult with a second MD if he couldn't read it. While I myself know no more than basic first aid, I'm grateful I'm surrounded in my immediate and greater family by a bunch of health pros: while our health care system is royally screwed up, at least when I or my immediate family have needed it, we've been able to find the best specialist to receive the best possible care here in the Pacific NW. I know the Twin Cities area is renowned for it's health care as well. Good luck with it all.

At Laclede we've got Weasels Ripped My Flesh Part 1 (first pitch), and Weasels Ripped My Flesh Part 2 (second pitch): a very worthwhile climb. Is creative album art dying out? Most of the stuff I can think of is classic and older: maybe it's just my age, and I don't know much of the more obscure stuff. I kind of had a theme going. This last one reminds me of the ending scene of Kubrick's 2001: A Space Odyssey

The Miss-ooh-la-la area has it all--rock, ice, mountains. I don't know much, but Blodgett is nearby (granite multi-pitch), and there's several other areas. At least two gyms: Missoula Rock Garden and another at the U. Good hills/trails to run/bike right out of town. Trailhead is the shop. Lots of climbing choices within a reasonable driving distance; don't know what exists in or just adjacent to town as far as pulling down goes. But the world is at your fingertips around Missoula. I heard a rumor JoJo was going to release soon a climbing guide for the area: if he is, no doubt it'll be worthwhile. The school has a good rep, especially for certain disciplines. What're ya gonna study?

What are your favorite songs where climbing is a part of the lyrics, or at least it's alluded to? Reason I ask is that that in the last week, by chance (music picked out by others), I've heard three songs that were about climbing, or at least mountains were referred to. I don't think there are too many out there. Those 3 I recently heard: Fearless - Pink Floyd (Meddle) South Side of the Sky - Yes (Fragile) Fat Man - Jethro Tull (Stand Up) Yah, I know mine are old skool. Hopefully y'all can come up with some newer stuff. And Fat Man is a little bit of a stretch, but "mountain" is in the lyrics.

Sounds like a lot of fun, J. I'll have to find a new job first, but I'll be thinking about you. I've wanted to get back into the Sawtooths since I was lightninged off several times in the span of a week about 12 years ago (on that trip fortunately I brought a mountain bike, and also discovered several hot springs), and was chased away again by lightning more recently. Both times in August, so good luck on the weather.

Friends are on Fairweather right now: they're using Paul Swanstrom of Alaska Mountain Flying Service out of Haines. He's gone above and beyond to accommodate their constantly changing schedule because of weather and avy concerns. http://www.flyglacierbay.com/ Sorry I can't help you with weather forecasting. Indeed NOAA doesn't have the same forecasting for St. Elias compared to what we're used to in the Cascades. You've likely seen the NPS page for St. Elias: http://www.nps.gov/archive/wrst/eliasrng.html I'd speak directly to a ranger at one of the phone numbers listed at the bottom of the page, and/or ask when speaking to one of the pilot services, including Swanstrom, to know what weather sources they use.