pindude

Wayne, you're such a tease. It's not gonna be another "Vertical Limit," is it? If it's not yet in Seattle, Spokane, Portland, or McMinnville (scheduled to open in Seattle March 30, not scheduled for future for other 3), where/when did you see it? The IMAX movie is actually called "The Alps." Interesting I just bought today Harlin's new book "The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father." Congrats to John. Here's The Alps trailer: FDIPBZViN9c

60CSX and its features are well worth the price--yes and yes--although you should be able to get it for much less. I paid about $100 less shopping around/using discounts 11 months ago. However, you'll be spending much more for a bigger memory card (biggest is best), map software, minor accessories (carry bag, holders for car, etc.). [Edited to add: more power to ya if you can get software per Bigtree's "suggestion."] I researched this heavily one year ago, and decided on the 60CSX over the Vista Cx and others--then shopped for price. I used to sell all kinds of GPS's 10+ years ago, and am blown away with the improvements since then--especially with this unit. I use it for climbing, SAR and work, and for driving as well as on foot and skis. Excellent for satellite acquisition in tree cover, and use with a PC.

GLAD to hear, Carolyn! Friskies is our cats' food of choice as well: we pull it out generally just for special occasions as both our older cats are on "special" diets. Cheers!

MisterE: Thanks for clarifying. Sorry for the belated reply here. I finally looked at Hans Florine's site, and according to him, "The third ascent of the route took 3.5 days, Layton Kor, Steve Roper, and Glenn Denny." (Source here.) No date given, but the second ascent, first one done in a single push, was Robbins, Pratt, Frost and Fitschen in 1960. MisterMo: As far as price goes, it lists at $60, with signed and numbered copies being sold by Patagonia (who is the publisher along with Editor Tom Adler) for $120. Amazon's selling for $37.80 before shipping and tax. Were you able to get yours for any less, possibly using a more local supplier? BTW, nice photos in the wayback thread. Yup, can't wait until I get a copy, but trying to suss out the best deal, hopefully from a non-big box retailer. Whatever the price, I'd have to think it's worth it. Looking forward to having Glen promote the book and Yose on a little tour if that's in the works.

Sorry to hear you're sick Oly, get better quick. Since you liked cream in your coffee so much, here it is again: 79TQx0llt9Q And now that I'm guessing you're a boob man, here's a classic one for ya: V7fmy0JOHBg

I'm jealous. Even if our current NW area warm-up is extending to Sorcerer, I'm sure things will be back to normal there within a couple weeks and you'll have a great time. Here's a slew of Sorcerer TR's from ttips.com: Mar 10-17 Feb 24-Mar 3 Feb 24-Mar 3 Air & Crashes Feb 3-10 minor beta

Yesterday's NPR's Morning Edition: "Morning Edition, March 8, 2007: Oregon is about to pass legislation requiring climbers to carry electronic-locator devices when scaling Mt. Hood. The legislation is the state's response to recent high-profile cases of climbers getting lost on the mountain." Audio and story here. What a damned shame if the bill does pass. I know this topic has been hit hard here at cc.com in context of this past winter season's two media-frenzied Hood accidents. I searched and couldn't believe this recent bit of news hasn't been discussed in last few days here.

Speaking of that (probably NSFW): 79TQx0llt9Q BTW, in Spokane, best sit-down is at any of the Rocket Bakeries, and best drive-through is Jacob's Java of which there are 6 scattered around here.

I'll spoil it. He wasn't found alive, anyway. It's speculated he drowned while trying to make a river crossing. Body found in 2001. http://www.southeasternoutdoors.com/public-lands/national-parks/randy-morgenson.html As far as a via ferrata in the Sequoia-King's Canyon area goes, you might have better success by throwing it out to the folks on supertaco. You may even find someone there who knew Randy Morgenson personally.

The angle of your dangle for Hood be this: Declination = 16 deg 38 min E changing by 0 deg 9 min W/year From this website: http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/seg/geomag/jsp/Declination.jsp

Hey high, Looks like all those over there today are hanging out for tonight's partying and tomorrow's clean-up. Looking at the weather there today from the comfort of my PC (I skied today in the NE mountains of WA ), it looks like it stayed dry. Tomorrow's NWS Fx for Vantage is for 57 deg and 10% POP. Hmmm, we do know Vantage is about the dryest place in the state... GO FOR IT, big guy, and have a great time!

Just received in mail today the latest Patagucci catalog, "2007 Spring Yosemite." Filled with 60s Yose pics by Glen Denny, one of the Valley's pioneering climbers of that era. Patagonia's still at the fore of catalog graphic design, a position they've been in for a good 25 years. At their website here, they've posted 48 of Glen's B&W photos plus a few interesing vids.

Either Fredston's Snow Sense or the late (both, sadly) LaChapelle and Ferguson's ABCs of Avy Safety are good intro books. If you'll be spending much time in the BC, you'll want to read a more comprehensive book as well; the best is Tremper's Staying Alive in Avy Terrain. It's current, it covers some avy topics many of the others don't, and it reads well. There's a lot of info, and even more up-to-date stuff, on the web. You'll find a ton following links beginning at avalanche.org and avalanche.ca. Yes, take a Level One course, and best to hook up with a folk or two who are avy experienced and know the area you're skiing. As far as specific course, a local will have to answer for you, but Oregon's a pretty big place...what part? Portland? The BC is about as good as it gets right now, but there's at least a couple tricky layers out there. Happy skiing.

Nice TR, Scott, and congratz on the racing. I knew it would be a good time, glad to hear that it was.

Problem might be that their url changed. Don't know when. Just before hamster's post above, I HAD this as a bookmark, and this is also what google still brings up: http://www.nwac.noaa.gov/ NWAC home page now this: http://www.nwac.us/ Thanks hamster.

Good folks are still working on it. My understanding is that verbal agreements have been reached, lawyers are finalizing the deal and agreement is yet to be signed. There *might* be something to report in the next couple weeks. When the deal is closed, there will certainly be a public announcement. Some more not-too-recent info here at Dishman Hills Natural Area Association, who with Spokane Mountaineers and others, are making this all possible.

C, Hoping for the best for Latte and you. We had one cat--Nipper--with Feline CRF (Chronic Renal Failure) who lived at least an additional 5 years with it, finally passing away at the ripe age of 17. Am wondering right now if early CRF is a problem for our Katy, who came to us as a stray and we think is about 10 years old. Since Sobo's post, you've probably already looked it up, but googling up "crf feline cat" yields a plethora of results. Bless you both, Steve

Johnston Canyon. Low avy hazard, but careful on blue-sky days--even when below freezing--when the sun shines on the top of the ice formations. Barry B took a big ride a few years ago when the formation he was most of the way up on broke off above him. Barry was not hurt from what I recall. And in the late 90s I with some friends narrowly missed being hit by a VW-sized block, somewhat to climber's right of the actual Johnston Falls. The latter event at least was due to solar gain while the sun was shining on the upper ice at mid-day. Another danger there might be all the tour groups who hike in...

Scroll down on this link previously posted, toward the end of the timeline. Nothing real yet. Seems the word is starting to get out in China. "Field teams," including a CNN crew, are making some progress. But finding further info, and C&C, will take time. Blessings to all involved in the search.

E, Check out Will Gadd's ice climbing pages, which start from his website here: http://www.gravsports.com/ Cheers, S Edited to add: Looks in, photo here from Will's site from Dec. 13. On Cascade, always have to be aware of snow in the bowl above for avy danger.

Very cool, MisterE, glad to know. I see the book here: http://www.amazon.com/Glen-Denny-Yosemite-Sixties/dp/0979065909 But I thought Glen Denny's movie--"El Capitan"--edited and released by Fred Padula (and one of my favorite climbing movies) in the late 70s or so, documented the third Nose ascent. Not sure if I remember that from the movie itself, or some other source, but that's what is stuck in my mind. I may well be wrong. Haven't seen that movie in at least a couple years, but I've got the VHS in my collection and have seen it at least 10 times since the mid-80s. Climbers in that ascent, in addition to Glen who filmed, were Dick McCracken, Gary Colliver, and Lito Tejeda Flores. I don't doubt you. Just wondering which ascent was which? Can't wait for Glen's book to come out. Cheers

Thanks for the ref's, CBS, Alasdair, Mr. Phil. Welcome, Kit, to the board and Spokane. Lots of good advice given so far. I'm not really a "big shot," but am glad to help. While I'm a Spokane Mountie, I'm really an independent sort, and would be glad to give you honest info on how to learn in general, and how to take advantage of the programs in the area including what the Spo Mounties and others offer. Only the Spo Mounties Mountain School is limited to folks that have to register as members by Jan. 1. While I think this rule is BS, it would be worthwhile to join by then if you are thinking about climbing in the mountains and are even remotely interested in Mountain School this spring for you or your husband. However, there's lots of other options and classes available. I can tell you much more. If you don't already know, the Mountaineers in general are royally sprayed on in this board, sometimes deservedly so. Interestingly, the disfunction in the Mountaineers is much less compared to that exhibited by the range of posters on cc.com. But while there's lots of chaff, there's also some incredible wisdom. I'm sure you're already figuring out who is who here. Point of clarification: The Spo Mounties are autonomous from the westside Mountaineers organization. While the Spo Mounties look up to the Mountaineers as a big brother in many respects, a good number of Spo Mounties take pride in being independent and somewhat non-bureaucratic. Regardless, bureacracy is inherent in any organization, and the Spo Mounties still provide some great cc.com opportunities for photo-caption contests. Re. shops, don't overlook Mountain Goat Outfitters, an independent store at Sprague and Division, at the very heart and crossroads of Spokane. Interestingly the same exact location where Mountain Gear first started and I used to work. Both Mountain Goat and Mountain Gear have great selection and help. Even though I worked at MGear for 4+ years and since have done various contract work for them, I like to champion the little guy, and in this case it's deserved. It's important to spread the wealth around the community: Mountain Goat, Mountain Gear, and REI all have their place. Kit, I was in very much the same situation as you when I really got into climbing (like doing it almost every day as opposed to only a few times a year) more than 20 years ago: back in school, not much money, and had to figure out how to do it as efficiently as possible. I can help you out re. equipment and sources/resouces in the overall community. Re. books, FOTH is a good start. There's many others depending on what exactly you get into. And once you join the Spo Mounties, you can get 20% off Mountaineers Books. I've got other resources there for you as well. You'll meet, literally, some of the best people in the world as climbers. A good start are our own Spotly and High on Rock from Spokane, and select others on this board. Cheers, Steve Reynolds

I was trolling, but nothing I said was false. Gotcha there Ken, hook line and sinker (you too, Couloir). Don't know how you deduced all that about me...I may be a mofo, but I ain't cheap. And those that know me, know I'm pretty darned accepting--even of folks like you. Love ya Ken. I, as well as many others, have gone through the whole progression of belay devices as they've been introduced to climbers over the years: Sticht plates, Bachli Seilbremse, Lowe Tuber, Trango Pyramid, Grigri, ATC, Reverso, and the list goes on with multiple variations and permutations including several devices for today's thinner, lighter ropes. It'd be embarrasing to tell you all the belay/rap devices I have. Looking back over the past year, I've been using at least 4 different ones depending on the type of climbing and diameter of rope(s): Grigri, ATC-Guide, ATC-XP, Mini-Reverso. As with a lot of climbing gear, it's personal preference. I'm thankful today we have so many choices. Fig-8s still have their place. They're an indispensable tool for many in rescue, and they're still preferred by many rec climbers. Most important to know is that they're designed for rapping, not belaying, unless it's through the single hole in-line style like I mentioned before. Many out there still prefer 8's for rapping because of the amount of friction they place on the rope. In-line devices designed primarily for belaying produce a lot more friction for rapping--sometimes too much as most of you know--especially if you're rapping on two ropes of medium to large diameter. Mullster: I can see that your team forbids fig-8 belaying, but I'm interested in knowing why your team "highly discourages them for rappelling." Who's your "team?" In terms of weight, steel 8's designed for rescue may be heavy, but not 8's designed for regular climbing. Comparative weights of common belay/rap devices: BD Super 8 (a Fig-8 that also allows in-line style belaying): 87 g ATC: 50 g Reverso: 81 g ATC-Guide: 103 g Grigri: 225 g Ketch's question has essentially been answered, especially for those that actually read the link provided by Kurt. I've never heard of a good fig-8 failing outside of normal use. The "breakings" in the article weren't "when a fig 8 device busted the side out of a biner," as Ketch corrected himself, but--in two cases--a small part of the sleeve of a locking biner breaking because of triaxial or non-end-to-end loading caused by operator error. I originally replied because it was obvious there was some misunderstanding and whining going on, without a more balanced view. As mentioned, it comes down to knowing your equipment and it's limitations, being attentive, and thinking clearly and objectively. --pindude, Defender of the Figure-Eight

Pansies! Before the advent of heat-dissipating in-line devices, many of us used fig-8s for years (even decades for those of us older guys) to rap. In all the years I used them, I never had a rope lock up on my fig-8, nor did I ever have undue twists in my rope due to rapping. Folks must be doing some strange things. And you can safely belay with a Fig-8 provided the small hole is large enough it can be used like an in-line device. Fish on!

Climbing articles have appeared in the WSJ previously. Now that climbing is considered more mainstream, at least in the western world (compared to even 10 years ago), I would expect to see more. Thanks for pointing this out, and to Winter for posting the article. Armando is a great, stand-up guy who regularly helps others. With Castro's demise apparently eminent, perhaps we'll see some big changes coming down the road in Cuba, especially in regard to climbing and the attitude of their government and general culture toward it.