pindude

Rad, thanks for the review. I haven't seen the movie, but have read Harlin's book. He mentions much in the book that would better enlighten anyone viewing the movie. Harlin was originally doing this only as a personal experience. Stephen Venables, employed by MacGillivray-Freeman, was hired to do the story line for The Alps and knowing Harlin wanted to climb the Eiger, talked him into having it filmed. One of the concessions Harlin requested was that he didn't want the climbing experience impeded by the film crews. Outside of the obvious intrusion of having to wear helmet cams, a helo hovering around, and cameramen at strategic spots, Harlin in no way wanted the climbing altered/stopped/changed/repeated for the whims of the film crew. Too bad, saw that in the trailer and wondered how it would fit myself. Harlin actually led many of the pitches, but then these must not have been compelling enough for the film editors. Right, Harlin did the classic route vs. the Harlin Memorial diretissima, and he details many reasons why including wishes of his family and that this route was his first attempt on the face. Considering all the weighty personal issues, I can't fault him for the choice of route. After all, it's still the Eiger Nordwand. The book's a good read, and you might like it better than the movie.

Exactly my point. I couldn't agree more. I dunno: General irrational behavior including consistent bad decision-making or showing an IQ far below 100? Or specific acts, even by a "smart" person? Perhaps this? (except only for "his decision" to finally RELEASE the Brit hostages): Let's be careful. Don't want this thread moved to spray!

He didn't die because of the rope's age. He had just jumped on it previously the same day. Using the same basic anchor system, and wanting to set a new record for length of a dynamic rope jump, he jumped from a new spot. It was determined by his friends who reconstructed the accident that the rope most likely broke because of friction at a point where it erroneously crossed over his anchor rigging, something he obviously overlooked when he jumped from the new location. Danno wasn't dumb, but that sure can be argued because of his incredible risk-taking. How'd the "getting started" thread end up here? Hey, KitCat, let's get you out climbing. The rock has warmed up in the spring-time sun, and it's calling your and your husband's names!

Yup, another great slogan. I'm sure'd there'd be glass as well if the same rocks were plunked down in the urban area in Seattle or Tacoma. At least we've got the nearby rocks!

No direct link, but at this site http://www.acrelectronics.com/ listed under "outdoor 406 PLBs" among a couple other places. Retails around $650-700. Looks like it's the shit IF you want a PLB in the mountains.

+1 "Mirabeau" used to be a TR'ing and bouldering area just a very few locals climbed on when it was surrounded by the Walk in the Wild zoo, now defunct. Good to see all the work out there documented; now we need route names and FA info to make it more complete. Mirabeau is what I've heard it called since both kinds of development (real estate + lead routes). Way to go, Kurt.

I should add: I can tell you a little about use of PLBs in the US, nothing about Canada. PLBs are essentially a smaller, personal version of ELTs and EPIRBs, which were originally designed to be used for planes and boats. Test program in only the state of Alaska in about the 1990s for use as Personal Locator Beacons on land: was successful enough PLBs were adopted for voluntary use for all of USA. I sold all 3 of these types of emegency rescue beacons until 1998. ACR made the only easily available PLB during that time.

You'll want to do your own research, but Doug Ritter's site "Equipped to Survive" will give you most of the info you ever wanted to know. I'd start here: http://www.equipped.org/plb_legal.htm and then link to all the info Doug has, including this comparison chart of PLBs. It appears ACR with several units, and McMurdo with one unit, are the only current manufacturers of truly affordable PLBs. Doug's a pilot and a long-time, well-respected survival authority.

Great TR, E! Glad y'all had a great time.

Clarification and correction. Not true, you're supposed to have a permit--see below. According to your link, an org that call themselves the Mt. St. Helens Institute: - Permits are required year-round for folks going 4800'+ - Permits are free Nov 1-Mar 31, but cost $22 Apr 1-Oct 31 - "Climbing use is unrestricted" Nov. 1-May 14 - "Climbing use is restricted to 100 daily permit holders" May 15-Oct 31 A clarification: Yes, every climber (going above 4800') is supposed to have a permit, that, according to the website, must be registered for and picked up at Jack's between Nov 1-Mar 31. Between Apr 1-Oct 31, the permit must be purchased online in advance then picked up at Jack's during their business hours. A correction: Mother's Day 2007 is on May 13, Sunday, so that date will not "fill," and as many climbers/skiers/boarders/cross-dressers that want to, can be on the mountain above 4800'. K's second question still stands: What's the penalty for no permit?

OK, thanks. It's not listed at all at the Imax site for Omni, but now I see is here...best to check those show times..."at 11, 1, 3, 7, and 9, today."

Wayne, you're such a tease. It's not gonna be another "Vertical Limit," is it? If it's not yet in Seattle, Spokane, Portland, or McMinnville (scheduled to open in Seattle March 30, not scheduled for future for other 3), where/when did you see it? The IMAX movie is actually called "The Alps." Interesting I just bought today Harlin's new book "The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father." Congrats to John. Here's The Alps trailer: FDIPBZViN9c

60CSX and its features are well worth the price--yes and yes--although you should be able to get it for much less. I paid about $100 less shopping around/using discounts 11 months ago. However, you'll be spending much more for a bigger memory card (biggest is best), map software, minor accessories (carry bag, holders for car, etc.). [Edited to add: more power to ya if you can get software per Bigtree's "suggestion."] I researched this heavily one year ago, and decided on the 60CSX over the Vista Cx and others--then shopped for price. I used to sell all kinds of GPS's 10+ years ago, and am blown away with the improvements since then--especially with this unit. I use it for climbing, SAR and work, and for driving as well as on foot and skis. Excellent for satellite acquisition in tree cover, and use with a PC.

GLAD to hear, Carolyn! Friskies is our cats' food of choice as well: we pull it out generally just for special occasions as both our older cats are on "special" diets. Cheers!

MisterE: Thanks for clarifying. Sorry for the belated reply here. I finally looked at Hans Florine's site, and according to him, "The third ascent of the route took 3.5 days, Layton Kor, Steve Roper, and Glenn Denny." (Source here.) No date given, but the second ascent, first one done in a single push, was Robbins, Pratt, Frost and Fitschen in 1960. MisterMo: As far as price goes, it lists at $60, with signed and numbered copies being sold by Patagonia (who is the publisher along with Editor Tom Adler) for $120. Amazon's selling for $37.80 before shipping and tax. Were you able to get yours for any less, possibly using a more local supplier? BTW, nice photos in the wayback thread. Yup, can't wait until I get a copy, but trying to suss out the best deal, hopefully from a non-big box retailer. Whatever the price, I'd have to think it's worth it. Looking forward to having Glen promote the book and Yose on a little tour if that's in the works.

Sorry to hear you're sick Oly, get better quick. Since you liked cream in your coffee so much, here it is again: 79TQx0llt9Q And now that I'm guessing you're a boob man, here's a classic one for ya: V7fmy0JOHBg

I'm jealous. Even if our current NW area warm-up is extending to Sorcerer, I'm sure things will be back to normal there within a couple weeks and you'll have a great time. Here's a slew of Sorcerer TR's from ttips.com: Mar 10-17 Feb 24-Mar 3 Feb 24-Mar 3 Air & Crashes Feb 3-10 minor beta

Yesterday's NPR's Morning Edition: "Morning Edition, March 8, 2007: Oregon is about to pass legislation requiring climbers to carry electronic-locator devices when scaling Mt. Hood. The legislation is the state's response to recent high-profile cases of climbers getting lost on the mountain." Audio and story here. What a damned shame if the bill does pass. I know this topic has been hit hard here at cc.com in context of this past winter season's two media-frenzied Hood accidents. I searched and couldn't believe this recent bit of news hasn't been discussed in last few days here.

Speaking of that (probably NSFW): 79TQx0llt9Q BTW, in Spokane, best sit-down is at any of the Rocket Bakeries, and best drive-through is Jacob's Java of which there are 6 scattered around here.

I'll spoil it. He wasn't found alive, anyway. It's speculated he drowned while trying to make a river crossing. Body found in 2001. http://www.southeasternoutdoors.com/public-lands/national-parks/randy-morgenson.html As far as a via ferrata in the Sequoia-King's Canyon area goes, you might have better success by throwing it out to the folks on supertaco. You may even find someone there who knew Randy Morgenson personally.

The angle of your dangle for Hood be this: Declination = 16 deg 38 min E changing by 0 deg 9 min W/year From this website: http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/seg/geomag/jsp/Declination.jsp

Hey high, Looks like all those over there today are hanging out for tonight's partying and tomorrow's clean-up. Looking at the weather there today from the comfort of my PC (I skied today in the NE mountains of WA ), it looks like it stayed dry. Tomorrow's NWS Fx for Vantage is for 57 deg and 10% POP. Hmmm, we do know Vantage is about the dryest place in the state... GO FOR IT, big guy, and have a great time!

Just received in mail today the latest Patagucci catalog, "2007 Spring Yosemite." Filled with 60s Yose pics by Glen Denny, one of the Valley's pioneering climbers of that era. Patagonia's still at the fore of catalog graphic design, a position they've been in for a good 25 years. At their website here, they've posted 48 of Glen's B&W photos plus a few interesing vids.

Either Fredston's Snow Sense or the late (both, sadly) LaChapelle and Ferguson's ABCs of Avy Safety are good intro books. If you'll be spending much time in the BC, you'll want to read a more comprehensive book as well; the best is Tremper's Staying Alive in Avy Terrain. It's current, it covers some avy topics many of the others don't, and it reads well. There's a lot of info, and even more up-to-date stuff, on the web. You'll find a ton following links beginning at avalanche.org and avalanche.ca. Yes, take a Level One course, and best to hook up with a folk or two who are avy experienced and know the area you're skiing. As far as specific course, a local will have to answer for you, but Oregon's a pretty big place...what part? Portland? The BC is about as good as it gets right now, but there's at least a couple tricky layers out there. Happy skiing.

Nice TR, Scott, and congratz on the racing. I knew it would be a good time, glad to hear that it was.