pindude

Whoa, hadn't heard that one. What's the real story on that? Source? Just to clarify: If your second is carrying a pack, a long enough sling--between the pack and your belay loop--will allow the pack to be out of the way and under his/her feet. However, if you're dealing with chimneys and wide cracks, and you don't really want to hear your second cussing and complaining in them with a pack on their back or with it hanging below, you as a leader with the second rope can use it to haul the pack...at least out of the chimneys and wide cracks. Two things I'd add then, if you're not going to lead on twin ropes and plan to trail the rap/second rope: Use a locking biner to attach your rap rope, and clip it preferably to an actual haul loop on the back of your harness. If you don't have a real haul loop, don't use a gear loop. You can make a temp haul loop by sliding on a small, sewn runner or tying a piece of webbing around the back of your swami. If you're twin-roping (both ropes into same biner), best to have two matching ropes: same diameter, same brand, ideally bought together for primarily that purpose. Have fun on it, spotly.

E-rock, you're right. Andrew is actually AT Apostle, as I even mentioned: it shows how gullible I can be.

Just south of the border from the Kootenays: 40 cm new for yesterday's fun, another 60 cm on top of that for today, more predicted overnight for tomorrow.

you should do this and clip the bite to your rap/belay loop...keeps you on lead, protected by the last piece while you thread the anchor! Better yet, just pass a bite of rope through the anchor, tie figure 8, clip the 8 into your belay loop, and untie the end of your rope, pull loose end through the anchor and lower. don't lower through the anchors!! if you're tr'ing, use qd's or build an anchor. if cleaning: rap off!!!

Actually, ericb, this discussion is constructive, and not what I'd characterize as your normal cc.com bashing. I agree that the instructor is plain wrong; ditto what Dane, Counterfeit, and Trogdor said. The latest edition of FOTH (7th ed., 2003), describes both the Ecrin-type and lighter weight polystyrene helmets, the main stipiluation being "buy a climbing helmet with the UIAA/CEN mark, which ensures minimum standards of impact resistance." The Meteor III is perfectly acceptable, for this and several other reasons. The Meteor and similar lightweight climbing helmets have been used in the alpine environment for years now. Interestingly, I'm still wearing my old Ecrin but have been planning for many months to buy something like the Meteor III to wear for alpine as well as cragging. As Counterfeit mentioned, there is indeed a tendency for volunteer instructors to err on the conservative side. That's not necessarily a bad thing. But there's also the tendency for some volunteer instructors to sometimes be overly officious or authoritative (reminds me of the instructor we saw at Bruce's Boulder years ago with a clipboard and a construction helmet with a big, bright rotating light on top: no thanks ). I would clarify with the actual director of the course, and perhaps even point the director and the instructor-in-question straight to this discussion. It should also be said that for helmets that break, most do so when they're not being worn, by either being dropped or banged around when they're attached to a pack. If not being worn (a climbing helmet is an excellent Cascades rainhat), have her keep her helmet inside her pack (and toward the top), but if she has to strap it on the outside, make sure it's secure and won't dangle and bash. When I've had to attach my helmet on the outside, I'll try to put it on top, and it's not uncommon then for me to use 3 and even 4 biners to ensure it's absolutely secure. It's obvious more care and attention is required for a lightweight helmet compared to the Ecrin-type.

Makes sense to me (I'd forgotten, and couldn't remember earlier in the haste of posting...must be old age ). Amusement is right!

Some folks get a little dizzy or disoriented when hiking in the dark with a headlamp in the usual spot on their forehead--not sure why this is so, but it can be mitigated by instead holding the light in your hand, or better yet, TT's suggestion above or letting the lamp dangle from around your neck.

TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. Rob's not too far off: at least the one is well worth mentioning. Wet wipes--moist towelettes--or better yet, Baby Wipes, are a high-demand commodity at populous base camps, such as on the Ruth, in Patagonia, and on Everest (only not this year on E ). Friend of mine brought several cases to Nepal and was able to trade them up for single malt, among other things. Fortunately, few climbers need body glide, and I don't think I'd want to climb with any that do. Good thread. Why haven't we yet seen any tips/tricks for removing stubborn booty?

I'm enjoying the Balvenie 12 y.o. Double Wood right now. I think it is on sale... and so is Black Bush, Red Breast, and Black Bush single malt. I may be picking up a bottle of the latter to try. Glenfiddich is on sale now, at least here on the east side.

Nice. Glad to see others finally doing some of my favorite climbs on Highway Rock. I usually rap in for those, for several reasons. Whatever your choice of approach, be looking out for poison ivy, which--while not currently in full summer foliage--can still do a number on your gear and the allergic.

Thanks Sobo! And as well to Andy Fitz, et. al. Have it marked for future ref.

Joe, Thanks for taking the initiative on this. Our Access Fund rep is the same one listed for WA at the Access Fund website--Jonah Harrison from Seattle--but I've yet to meet him. He *may* have the exact info Off White is referring to. Yes, indeed a landowner is protected from liability from recreationists. I've avoided Classic Cracks since the house was built, and have never contacted the landowner, but given that the area was at least once popular and is in the guidebooks, it's good that we as climbers are at least communicating with the landowner. Not sure if Roadstead has ever met him. I'll shoot you a PM. Thanks again. Steve Reynolds

Any motorized vehicle going off-road is indeed illegal there. Signs used to be posted, and it was obvious just from that. Don't mess around and call the Grant County Sheriff dispatch office directly at 509-762-1160 or 1-888-431-9911 during the weekend so they can get caught while they're out there. The Sheriff is based out of both Moses Lake and Ephrata, and it might take a little time for him to get to you and then deal with the situation. But be persistent, and let the sheriff do the work he's paid to. WA Fish and Wildlife, who is the land manager, I think answers their phone (at least the one listed at the above-linked WCC site) only during weekday business hours. Good luck and get em! Let us know the outcome. Edited to add: WA F&W, as the land manager, will still want to know what's going on out there. The WA Guard used to exercise all over around there, but that was banned years ago. Indeed pictures may well be needed.

I'm still grateful for the hexes--they went to a young climber who couldn't afford pro and really needed them. They went to good use. Haven't seen him in a couple years but I'm guessing they're still being used. The Hummingbirds, on the other hand--with their place in the history of climbing and today's better tools--belong on somebody's wall. I'll raise NOLSe by $10!

I felt the same way when he came to Spokane for a presentation in the mid-80s. I was pretty tongue-tied when I had the opportunity to speak with him. I second the worship part, Sobo. You still use a pair of Hummingbirds: whoa, those are museum pieces! And I thought I was old using my Moser Pulsars, when I do get out on the frozen stuff. Unfortunately I've had at least a couple friends with MS. It's really tough overall for anyone, of course, but incredibly tragic irony when it afflicts one of our greatest mountaineering icons. I'm only an occasional lurker on supertaco, but enjoy reading his posts. Jeff Lowe has always been a true inspiration in the physical and mental realms of what is possible in climbing, and continues to be as he moves forward with strength, dignity and humility.

OMFG. I only watched the first one and couldn't believe what I was watching. It'd be funny if it was meant to humorous, but this guy's serious. He certainly isn't AMGA-certified. It's gotta be said for the few who read this board that don't have a clue: this guy's an idiot and shouldn't be taken seriously. I'll save the real criticism for for those here who certainly know better. FWIW, here's his website: http://climbonadventures.com/aboutus.aspx Apparently, you can get paid a little more than beer money if you register as an "expert" and provide your video spiel at this site: http://www.expertvillage.com/ Avi, how'd you find this one?

At least it wasn't Goran's. That #2 Camalot got fixed from those trying to re-create the accident, lobbing off a weighted haul bag. Surprised that piece is still there.

Actually if you study much of the history of NW climbing you'd find that a very high percentage of climbers skied in the backcountry. In the modern age some people solely focus on crag climbing, but that does not represent all climbers. Yup, skiing is a part of climbing, and climbing a part of skiing, especially in the Cascades. They are integral to each other; skiing plays a huge role in the Cascades mountaineering history. Not sure how a true Cascades climber can be ignorant of the importance of skiing in regard to climbing and simply being in the Cascades. That said, there are certainly some alpine and ice climbers who don't ski, and even more rock climbers who don't. Kevbone, here's one site that may help the awareness of a Cascades ignoramus: Alpenglow And a BIG THANKS, Lowell, to you and your family for all you've done and continue to do. Oh, and AND thanks Hafilax and Porter for making this change.

I've heard Mead Hargis described as a very gifted climber. I was always impressed with his and Tom Hargis' FFA of Iconoclast in 1971. Raindawg will be heartened (as I was) to read his quote, as provided by Fred Beckey who reported the following for the 1972 AAJ: Snow Creek Wall, Iconoclast. This route lies between Galaxy and Outer Space, beginning with the first pitch of Remorse and ending with the last pitch of the Outer Space crack. It was climbed June 13 by Mead and Tom Hargis. Mead writes, “Unfortunately it was my onus to remove a bolt ladder placed by several intermediate parties attempting to finish the climb in this manner, a malefaction that showed they weren’t up to the standard of climbing.” NCCS III, FlO.

It wasn't just "some chick." And it wouldn't have mattered if it was. Good thing you withheld the urge, jerk. --------- Vancouver Province obituary of D'Arcy McRae, 12-28-04: Kootenay legend lived 'the life' Ski mountaineer D'Arcy McRae dead at age 31 after fall Greig Bethel, The Province December 28, 2004 GOLDEN -- D'Arcy McRae, a Kootenay ski town legend, died from brain and spinal cord injuries in a Palm Springs, Calif., hospital after a Dec. 15 rock climbing accident in Joshua Tree National Park. He was 31. McRae was climbing a moderate route on Saddle Rock known as Walk on the Wild Side when he slipped and fell about 20 metres. The safety rope caught, but McRae slammed into the rock. He was not wearing a helmet. The popular three-pitch route is rated as 5.8, which was well within McRae's ability, and is bolted for protection. There is speculation that he may have missed placing protection or went off route. Three-hundred people -- including family, life-long friends and mountain freaks from around the Kootenays -- attended McRae's funeral last Wednesday at the Wasa Community Hall. An impromptu wake was held that night at Lussier Hot Springs under a clear, starry sky. McRae grew up in Wasa, a small, tight-knit community set among the ponderosa pines and mountain peaks of the southern Rocky Mountain Trench. During his high school years in nearby Kimberley, McRae had a seminal experience. While working as a summer student at the massive Skookumchuck pulp mill on the banks of the Kootenay River, he came to the conclusion that he'd rather be out skiing somewhere -- anywhere -- than stuck in a job he didn't want. "A day at the hill is better than a day at the mill," McRae was fond of saying. These words became his mantra. A couple of years later, he moved to the historic West Kootenay ski town of Rossland to pursue his passion for skiing the steep and deep. He worked as a ski instructor at Red Mountain and in 1996, was part of a team that won the Olaus Jeldness super-G, a ski race that was established in the 1890s. He then made the East Kootenay forestry-turned-ski town of Golden his permanent home in the late '90s. McRae's skiing reached a new level in Golden, perhaps inspired by the numerous mountains that surrounded him. Along with partner Pierre Bernier, he recorded a number of incredible first descents in the Columbia and Rocky mountains, most notably 3,507-m Mount Bryce on the southwestern edge of the Columbia Icefield and 2,539-m Mount Dennis above the town of Field in Yoho National Park. According to ski mountaineer Ptor Spricenieks, the ski descent of Bryce's northeast ridge -- done in less than ideal conditions -- was one of the most difficult and most radical he has ever witnessed. Spricenieks, who was part of the Bryce expedition, speaks from experience. He has recorded a number of first descents -- including the north face of the highest summit in the Canadian Rockies, 3,954-m Mount Robson. But unlike Spricenieks, McRae accomplished his feats without any sponsors, media coverage or hype. He led a low-key, laid-back outdoors lifestyle -- one that is idealized in advertising and the media -- on a shoestring budget and supported his ski-bum ways by working summers as a tree planter. In recent years, McRae also started up a fledgling guided-hiking and ski-shuttle operation, Kootenay Wilds. McRae, a friendly and generous guy with a quick, easy smile, lived 'the life' -- winters spent skiing powder, summers spent working hard, other parts of the year spent playing in the mountains and travelling the globe. He knew that it was about the journey, not the destination. And, more importantly, McRae -- someone who personified the Kootenay vibe -- knew that it was not about how much money was in his bank account, but how rich his life was. He will be missed.

Wild Country and Black Diamond sell trigger repair kits directly: info is at their websites. Re. Aliens, CCH doesn't market a trigger repair kit, but you may be able to deal with them directly...although I've given up on using Aliens since the big QC and recall debacle.

Likely arches his back.

Glad to read, Dane, and glad you're not going too soft. Your words give *me* hope. Keep those shoulders strong and the opinions comin'... Cheers, Steve

JAD, Climber's group for the Vantage area is the FCCC, the Frenchman Coulee Climbers' Coalition (Frenchman is the main coulee, but there are other named coulees in the near vicinity that have established routes). They're set up as a Yahoo group here. From that page you'll see that Kevin Dwight is the contact, and you're welcome to post a message there as well. Others are active here at cc.com and may well respond to your post, including LUCKY and Paul Detrick. Here's more info on FC at the the Washington Climbers' Coalition site, and here's the original FC info page on the net originally put up by the late, great Bill Robins. RIP, Bill. Thanks to whoever's keeping it up. If you're jonesing for rock, JAD, don't wait 'til mid-March. Now's when FC gets good, and is well worth the drive from B-ham for at least a full, dry day of cragging. As far as a clean-up goes, don't be afraid to grab the bull by the horns and go for it. Good luck and cheers.

Not just that, mlou wrote: Half-off, hmm?