pindude

Tom, thanks for the heads-up on the Cooper-Baldwin Chief flick. No KCTS in eastern WA, but I'll find it elsewhere. I previously didn't know about the story, nor much about Baldwin, but Ed Cooper's been a hero for quite awhile with his FA's all over the west, and his photography. In my backyard, Ed Cooper and David Hiser put up in 1960 the first route on north Idaho Chimney Rock's east face. The climb, especially with the Canary Legs start, is one of the best around. While I'm mentioning it, it's probably second as far as "classic" status only to our own Dane's much more stout Free Friends-Illusions, which is just to the right of Cooper-Hiser on the same east face. Here's a pic from Ed's website, him on Angel Crack in 1960: Here's a shot of Chimney's stellar 450-foot-tall east face. Angle doesn't show it, but it's very vertical:

Bigtree, thus the reason I used "carbon neutral" in quotation marks and and the phrase "attempting to be green." Not that that's a bad thing: at least there is beginning to be awareness of how our actions affect everything around us. On a related note, MIT prof and meteorologist Edward Lorenz passed away just two days ago.

Nelson's Peak Freak team on Everest is "carbon neutral," and without looking at all the other current Everest or worldwide expeditions out there, I'd wager they're not the only one attempting to be green.

Yes, indeed very well put. Wise words not just for this accident but for those of us grieving the loss of others in the mountains as well. Don, thanks very much. Peter, my sincere condolences and best wishes for you, Paul's widow Im Mei and your families, and all of Paul's friends. --Steve Reynolds From Tami Knight's Alpinist memoriam (which Drew linked to earlier), "an illustration Paul drew for his wedding":

Right on, Slick, you just punched one of my hot buttons. I've been preaching this for over 20 years while witnessing at least 4 episodes of mostly full Nalgene bottles flying down due to "loop failure." Each subsequent time it's happened I believe I've gotten exponentially more pissed. I thought it obvious when looking at Nalgenes when I first started using them in the 80s; in my NSH opinion clipping by the loop is a newby/gumby/idiot thing. For those I've been around that don't heed the advice, I've used it as cause to pass, and cause to keep the lead. Yup, works well, and in addition to the ubiquitous OR insulated jackets there's commercially available sewn slings. R-dawg, while I think the former is more the sign of a geek (chalk bag attached with biner is another), and the latter is not my normal attire, next time I know you're going to be near I'll gladly wear shorts over polypro just because I know it turns you on so. Geek/idiot alert. You've been warned now. TWICE. Don't hold me responsible for anything I might do to you. Thanks, Sobo, for the synopsis and clarification with the types and numbers there. I'm not a Chicken Little, but I'll likely be throwing out quite a few Lexan #7's because my wife likes to run them through the dishwasher. Now we'll have a little more room on the wine rack I use to hold our collection of water bottles.

Short answer: it's confirmed. I just spoke with Mt. St. H. Climbing Ranger Mark Walker, who was very helpful in answering a number of questions I had regarding access and permits. The following is what I learned primarily from Mark but also from reading the St. H. website. Access: Marble Mount Sno-Park is still closed: Road 83 has up to 5' of snow and downed trees. Road 83 is presently open only about a mile past its junction with Road 90. I'm not sure of the exact mileage, but that would be at least 4 miles from Marble Mount Sno-Park. Crews are plowing and clearing as they can, but forecasted new snow this weekend will obviously slow that. Hard to predict when 83 will open all the way to Marble Mount Sno Park, but estimates vary from 2 to 4 weeks or more. Personally, I've been planning to head up the first weekend of May. I'll check the website or call back at the beginning of that week to check progress. Permits: Indeed there's presently a double-standard as far as climbing/skiing vs. snowmobiling above 4800'. A climbing permit is required year-round for anyone not on a snowmobile; snowmobilers can access terrain above 4800' until May 14 as long as they stay with their sled and don't go north of the crater rim. Sledders are required to display a Sno-Park permit (on both the sled and the towing vehicle), which is received in WA state as part of the snowmobile license registration of $30. The required climbing permit costs $22 per climber from Apr 1-Oct 31 and consequently is free from Nov 1-Mar 31. The climbing permit must be applied for online, and picked up now at the Lone Fir Resort (since Jack's burnt down). Gary told me management is assessing the issue, and suggested the strong possibility that sledders in the future will have to purchase a climbing permit to go above 4800'. A decision would likely not be made before sledding is to cease after May 14 of this year, but may be instituted before next fall. I had to finish the conversation and didn't get to ask two questions which I'll ask next time. One, I didn't get the chance to ask about the penalty for not having a permit. Second, I didn't confirm who would be the primary contact regarding management decisions. Mt. St. Helens is designated a National Monument, and is managed by the Forest Service, I believe through the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The Mt. St. Helens Monument Manager is Tom Mulder, who is one obvious contact if you'd like to respectfully express your opinion. PM if you'd like his contact info. Here's an interesting discussion on the climbing permit issue from last year. --Steve Reynolds

Yes, and Ed Viesturs certainly speaks, and writes, better than the great majority of posters on this board.

So, Marc, what's the update? I see you're well enough to be posting on other topics, or is that your new second head doing the talking?

As we well know on this board, climbing accidents are generally more sensationalized, but trust me, my sled friends as well as skiers and climbers realize how dumb and lucky the guy was. As far as your "learning curve" goes and the stats you're referring to, that's not an accurate assessment. To determine the risk per user group you have to compare the deaths or accidents to the number of users out in the avalanche environment, or better yet, compare number of deaths or accidents to the user-days or user-hours of a particular group: I don't know that there's been an accurate study of that. In my own experience with each of the three groups, I've found that *in general* skiers actually know more about and attempt to avoid avalanches, with climbers a close second, and sledders a distant third.

Bug, I definitely agree with your advice to Marc, but call BS on your cause of the "calcified cyst." Is this a self-diagnosis? Likely it's just a cyst. At least it makes for a good story. Here is what I do know. When I was a boyscout in the Bob Marshall Wilderness, I found a gorged tick on the back of my head. My father tried to remove it using the match technique. When he pulled it off, it had no head. For the rest of thte trip, I was repeatedly asked what the tick had to say about this, or that, or whatever. The lump grew over the course of a few days but hten receaded to a small pimple size lump. Over the years, it has continued to grow and is now 3 feet in diameter and has the shape of Ronald Reagan's head. Unfortunately, it keeps muttering, "I don't recall, I don't recall". How dare you question my honesty! Sorry, dude. I now feel really bad for you. OK if I refer to you as Tick from now on? I have no idea if foreign bodies in our epidermis can cause cysts, but really, I wanted to hear the story behind it all. Didn't mean to question you're identity--at least ticks are great climbers. I don't think I could live with myself though if I was sportin a talking Ronnie Reagan head. One of the reasons lots of folks use matches or heat I think is they're too squeamish to put their fingertips on the little buggers and squeeze them just hard enough to pull them off. I've unfortunately lived with them most of my life and it's such automatic behavior now when I see them (usually on our dogs) I immediately get down to business and deliberately and carefully do the duty. But if I came across a giant-sized, talking Ronnie head I think I'd scream and run the other direction.

PM feck. He'll have reco's for sure.

God you guys are funny and entertaining. Glad this is in spray. A disinfectant like Lysol? I know you meant antiseptic. There are obviously better methods of removal than the misguided older use of heat with a match, cigarette, or even hot needle. Bug, I definitely agree with your advice to Marc, but call BS on your cause of the "calcified cyst." Is this a self-diagnosis? Likely it's just a cyst. At least it makes for a good story. No myth; is true. Good luck, looking forward to hearing the outcome.

Marc: While it's possible you have a tick part in there, it's highly unlikely it's a "head." If anything, it might be a mouth part. Over my lifetime, and mostly in eastern WA, I've pulled several hundreds of ticks off animals, others, and myself, and have *never* left a head nor a mouth part--not even once. There are many myths and a lot of paranoia surrounding tick bites, but certainly Lyme's Disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever are possibilites, as rare as they are. If you think something was left in, don't let it fester as just suggested: take some tweezers or a pin and get the shit out, then clean it up well. If you're unsure--or if you have obvious skin irritation continuing hours after you do your clean-up job--head to a doc, but know that many doc's and PA's or NP's don't have much experience with ticks. Probabilities are, that if you had some tick part left in there that *might* cause cellulitis (which is an infection of the tissues that makes them red and inflamed, and is not lance-able like a localized infection is with the presence of pus), you may need an antibiotic. No time to be squeamish: If in doubt, clean it out! Here's an older cc.com discussion. For future, note how I described there how to pull off a tick. --Steve

After Google Earth opens up, try zooming in on western WA: that's what I had to do. If Erik's routes aren't there, then perhaps you should update to the latest GE version. Good luck. BTW, snow got real wet here on the east side today, making for a little bit of work, but the turns, sun, and near 70 temp's cured all ails. Spring has sprung!

Doh! Guess I was in too much of a hurry to run off and socialize on a Friday night. Yup, the button's right there, no attached file needed. Indeed it only takes about 45 seconds for my PC to do it's stuff, but sometimes my brain takes longer. Pretty cool. Those google boys really have it goin on. I better get to bed: sun and spring corn await in just a few hours...

Erik, very nice, thanks. How long did that take? I haven't played with Google Maps or Earth much, but am wondering how easy it would be to layer the same info on Google Earth. Have a great weekend, where ever you're headed with your skis. Matt, thanks for note of that project. Am presuming they would be interested as well in eastern WA, ID, MT, OR.

The more original pack: 1 lb 7 oz. 30 liters. 53 bucks.

Whoa, hadn't heard that one. What's the real story on that? Source? Just to clarify: If your second is carrying a pack, a long enough sling--between the pack and your belay loop--will allow the pack to be out of the way and under his/her feet. However, if you're dealing with chimneys and wide cracks, and you don't really want to hear your second cussing and complaining in them with a pack on their back or with it hanging below, you as a leader with the second rope can use it to haul the pack...at least out of the chimneys and wide cracks. Two things I'd add then, if you're not going to lead on twin ropes and plan to trail the rap/second rope: Use a locking biner to attach your rap rope, and clip it preferably to an actual haul loop on the back of your harness. If you don't have a real haul loop, don't use a gear loop. You can make a temp haul loop by sliding on a small, sewn runner or tying a piece of webbing around the back of your swami. If you're twin-roping (both ropes into same biner), best to have two matching ropes: same diameter, same brand, ideally bought together for primarily that purpose. Have fun on it, spotly.

E-rock, you're right. Andrew is actually AT Apostle, as I even mentioned: it shows how gullible I can be.

Just south of the border from the Kootenays: 40 cm new for yesterday's fun, another 60 cm on top of that for today, more predicted overnight for tomorrow.

you should do this and clip the bite to your rap/belay loop...keeps you on lead, protected by the last piece while you thread the anchor! Better yet, just pass a bite of rope through the anchor, tie figure 8, clip the 8 into your belay loop, and untie the end of your rope, pull loose end through the anchor and lower. don't lower through the anchors!! if you're tr'ing, use qd's or build an anchor. if cleaning: rap off!!!

Actually, ericb, this discussion is constructive, and not what I'd characterize as your normal cc.com bashing. I agree that the instructor is plain wrong; ditto what Dane, Counterfeit, and Trogdor said. The latest edition of FOTH (7th ed., 2003), describes both the Ecrin-type and lighter weight polystyrene helmets, the main stipiluation being "buy a climbing helmet with the UIAA/CEN mark, which ensures minimum standards of impact resistance." The Meteor III is perfectly acceptable, for this and several other reasons. The Meteor and similar lightweight climbing helmets have been used in the alpine environment for years now. Interestingly, I'm still wearing my old Ecrin but have been planning for many months to buy something like the Meteor III to wear for alpine as well as cragging. As Counterfeit mentioned, there is indeed a tendency for volunteer instructors to err on the conservative side. That's not necessarily a bad thing. But there's also the tendency for some volunteer instructors to sometimes be overly officious or authoritative (reminds me of the instructor we saw at Bruce's Boulder years ago with a clipboard and a construction helmet with a big, bright rotating light on top: no thanks ). I would clarify with the actual director of the course, and perhaps even point the director and the instructor-in-question straight to this discussion. It should also be said that for helmets that break, most do so when they're not being worn, by either being dropped or banged around when they're attached to a pack. If not being worn (a climbing helmet is an excellent Cascades rainhat), have her keep her helmet inside her pack (and toward the top), but if she has to strap it on the outside, make sure it's secure and won't dangle and bash. When I've had to attach my helmet on the outside, I'll try to put it on top, and it's not uncommon then for me to use 3 and even 4 biners to ensure it's absolutely secure. It's obvious more care and attention is required for a lightweight helmet compared to the Ecrin-type.

Makes sense to me (I'd forgotten, and couldn't remember earlier in the haste of posting...must be old age ). Amusement is right!

Some folks get a little dizzy or disoriented when hiking in the dark with a headlamp in the usual spot on their forehead--not sure why this is so, but it can be mitigated by instead holding the light in your hand, or better yet, TT's suggestion above or letting the lamp dangle from around your neck.

TMI Tipping dangerously close to spray, here, fellas... Please respect the OP's request. Thank you, and we now return to your regularly scheduled program. Rob's not too far off: at least the one is well worth mentioning. Wet wipes--moist towelettes--or better yet, Baby Wipes, are a high-demand commodity at populous base camps, such as on the Ruth, in Patagonia, and on Everest (only not this year on E ). Friend of mine brought several cases to Nepal and was able to trade them up for single malt, among other things. Fortunately, few climbers need body glide, and I don't think I'd want to climb with any that do. Good thread. Why haven't we yet seen any tips/tricks for removing stubborn booty?