genepires

The new #6 is about the same as a old #5? If so, the #6 will work for that pitch. You may need to climb a move or two into it before you can get it in though.

very cool that you have a friend to climb with after 30 years. GReat TR! The route sounds good. Why was it taken out of the Selected classics of cascades? (between 1st and 2nd editions)

similar situation happened to a canadian team on baker some 8 years ago. (+ or _ 3 years) A team was coming down the coleman deming just below the pumice ridge, when all fell into a crack. I believe it was late season and very icy. Last guy in was dead but the others were ok. Very sad and spooky. I think they had to spend the night in the crack before getting rescued by park personnel and AAI guides.

man up and keep your name public. Only pussies use alias online.

screw crampons and their bags. chop steps with long alpin stock axes. keep crown royal in the bag instead of crampons. better yet, stay home and get drunk on said crown.

those little icy trail spikes that hikers use for thier shoes would be a good idea if you are on the fence about crampons. getting to the base would require about 20 minutes of step chopping if there is no boot pack across. Falling on that traverse would be a VERY BAD thing. (for someone without a axe) Chopping steps would make the spirit of Conrad Kain proud though!

purdy!

damn, I hope i am half the badass your dad is when I am 65. super cool for you two.

that rappel near the top can be avoided with a down climb a little lower down. Maybe 30 feet before the station and obviously down to the right. There are small cracks (for pro) and jugs to keep it around mid 5th. Seems like this spot is right before it gets steeper.

hells hwy photo is very good. great TR.

try indoor climbing areas. maybe marymoore and or the mtneers place too. leavenworth - if you think he can start to smear his feet. if you think he is ready for cracks, then XY cracks are good beginner cracks. playground point and busch gardens offer lots of beginner places. the far side at 38 might give more options for short juggy climbs than the trestle side. good thread as I am in need of this info in a couple years too. if this gets to be a good list, maybe we can sticky it in the kids forum.

justin..where is my "love"....you never call me anymore???? Fishing for partners but you can always throw your hook my way.

nice photos

very excellant.

I was thinking that your route is probably on average for all routes put up in squish. If so, then there must be hundreds of thousands of dollars put into the chief and surrounding areas. Who says climbers are cheap and don't contribute?

just curious.. what did you need to buy that cost a total of $1100? if it was just bolts, wouldn't that be about 110 bolts? (assuming one bolt and hanger costs $10) 110 bolts for a 18 pitch line is at about 6 per pitch with two of those at the anchors. thanks for putting up the route. sounds cool.

that is a lot of cash and a sign of the great job put forth by so many people.

great TR! thanks for the details.

sulphide glacier on shuksan.

yes you were lucky no not get busted up at the pass. They are very serious about the permit system there and at boston basin due to previous excessive damage to the fragile area. I have been asked for my permit as I walked through the pass and we barely escaped a heavy fine for illegal camping. Only true ignorance (summit of buckner is in park), honesty, not so honest remorse and the fact we filled out a voluntary climbing permit saved us. It was early july and he was parked there, chatting away with hikers, asking everyone about their permits. NCNP rangers spend a larger fraction of their time in that area vs others in the park. He/she would have been livid to see a tent there on the grass, especially if you popped off with your examples. You get the FREE permit to not get busted with a fine in NCNP. They are required to minimize impact and gather information to get the federal funding they need badly. For a 63 year old, you have no clue and are a bad example for the young-uns. With all your experience of "years of hiking/camping/climbing", you should have known better.

You guys have some hard qualifications for a guidebook. I look for a book that shows the routes and helps get me it done. With those needs, almost all guidebooks are good. The only book that I am not thrilled about is the can. rockies alpine select guidebook due to serious sandbagging and just plain wrong information. If you are looking for great reading, why are you looking at guidebooks written by climbers? Go to the library and find the classics instead for your cerebral needs.

follow the tracks in the snow to the start? The yellow arrow may be under snow, maybe not.

I had my paraglider (bought used which was a problem) set up above a cliff on a granite dome in the southeast. Sat there all harnessed up for a while before realizing that I couldn't run down the slab and off a cliff. I give a big thumbs up to anyone who can pull that stuff off. grassy hills are one thing. jumping and running off cliffs is something else.

I thought the shizzle about paragliding was the launching off of summits and landing near the car. A means of descent vs the activity itself. I saw a guy launch from the upper curtis on shuksan and land in the ski area parking lot. My brief foray into paragliding revealed I lack that kind of commitment, to go off a cliff with no chance of turning back.

As a victim of a rappelling accident I must say that one should have a 70 m rope for feb buttress. Not worth the hazard to try a sketch out that rappel. It is a long way up and zero chance of making it alive if botched. We weren't intending of doing that route but ended up there after finding lots of wet rock everywhere else.