genepires

I tried to use my mtn boots on a regular high back binding. There is some pain due to the fact that the boots don't go higher than the high back. Some wierd pinching that was bearable but did detract from the experience. I tried taping on a small bit of foam to my leg but it just falls off. If your boots are higher than the high back, you should be fine. Koflach made a mtneering snowboard boot many years ago. Looked like a nepal top. I should have got one but didn't. All good things get discontinued quick.

it is a backup and therefore can be shitty.

I have big expectations of my partners and besides draggin me up hard shit, I expect that they make damn good anchors. If they made a anchor like the slung pebbles shown, I would not climb with them. thanks for sharing and I hope this thread makes someone who is making shitty anchors think twice about it. Damn Billbob, why the hate?

May is a rough time to have 5 days off for. How about the boston basin area? You could always do forbidden, sahale, sharkfin, buckner or the torment forbidden traverse.

nice looking place you have. Too far for me though.

nice and great choice for music.

though the vast majority of climbers are good about trash, this message should be for all climbers.

by june for the "alpine ice routes" not glacier walk ups out: colchuck couloirs dragontail colfax greybeard cutthroat chair colonial in but possibly spicy stuart routes in and in good shape probably baker maude buckner shuksan rainier

+1 of using non crevasse for practice. You can use manmade snow features as well. Not suggesting a half pipe but there can be some cut banks in ski area parking lots and along some roads. Use common sense on site choice though. We once did "crevasse rescue" on the recently cut out "trail" from hwy to the toilets up at washington pass. If you are going to a determined location for your practice, keep a eye out while driving for easy man made features. Also, non evergreen trees may have a branch that is low and horizontal enough to be able to throw a rope around (to be able to setup a regular TR) to do a good prussik practice. If you need a real crevasse, not much will be available till the snow starts to melt. You could use moats near rock faces. Use common sense again in regards to rock fall into moats.

what is the song in the video. good stuff. good climbing too.

the biner looks good. well worth the $15. having key chain biners on a rock rack sounds like a bad idea, especially if you are swapping leads. There are plenty of lightweight full strength biners out there that using toy biners is unnecessary .

sweet. I would think it is hard to ice climb and kayak the same day in banff.

thanks y'all. I will run by those names with MIke tomorrow. Will also try yoder on him.

winter has started.

Alan was way too straight cut for a pony tail. Plus I think he was mostly a AAI company man. The guy I am looking for a rainier guy who did lots of solo/side work. Maybe pirate work as no one was looking at them back in those days. Yeah, I know this is a futile attempt. Just trying to help out a old cool guy. And yes, I have never seen a photo of Wickwire or the allman brothers. Thanks Mark for the 70's education.

I am a choade and I don't want to be patented.

isn't the combo of the glacier and a rigid ice boot bad in general? You have a mostly hiking boot with a steep ice crampon. Maybe you just need a general use crampon? just a thought.

So I was talking to a old timer at work and he was telling me stories of back in the day, late 70 and early 80's, in which he would very often into a guy in the hills who was a guide. This mystery man had a pony tail but he forgot the name. I ran through names that I had read about. Jim Wickwire rang a bell with him but not sure. Anyone know if Wickwire sported a pony tail back in the late 70's? Or any other prominent guides from our area from that era? thanks

that boot collection is total history. I would have thought you had more stuff. looks nice!

maybe check out the rock rescue books that are available when you get back stateside. Self rescue book by Fasulo in the "how to" series. Lots of good techniques and knots for rock rescue situations.

who would have thought that such beautiful granite domes in the middle of the amazon?

good to hear they are doing repairs. and it is midweek so us working monkeys won't even know it is closed.

amazing photos! the ice in the 1st and last two photos are world class ice climbs.

what type of rock is slider nuts good for? (obviously they would work where cams would work but it there a type of rock or climb in particular where the sliders work well and nothing else does?) I would think that other gear (nuts and cams) would fully cover granite. I can't think of ever needing them for any chunk of granite I have been on. But then, I don't push things that hard. Not an arguement Mike, just trying to figure it out.

Hasn't the newest cams made slider nuts obsolete? (like the zero cams and other really flexible stem cams)