genepires

what are you instructional needs? What is your climbing goal that the instruction is geared towards?

Looking to go to icicle or tumwater for some good cragging. First rock of the year so I was thinking of 5.8 to 5.10 range. Up for anywhere around there but some of the new areas (from new book) look interesting.

Is scottp photo below pilchuck pk?

why should I buy these and not a BD or metolious one? Not meaning to be a hater, just trying to figure out the benefits of the wired bliss ones. (historically they are significant)

squire creek area?

nice looking area. too bad you are keeping it a secret.

oh the umbrella is such a sweet thing to have. Thanks Josh for bringing back the memory of the awesome alpine weather shield. I would get the craziest looks when the umbrella was strapped next to a picket on the pack. But when I was walking down the trail in a down pour (going home of course) under the umbrella with no goretex jacket on, those crazy looks turned to envy. (I have an aversion to wearing goretex) I had to use the axe to keep others from crowding underneath. I always had the ultralight small model kind cause that is how I roll. But I remember Paul Rosser used the LARGE golfing kind. He rolls large in every way and his umbrella matched his personna. I think he could fit 6 under it. No one dared to tread on his precious dry ground though. umbrellas work good in low wind situations so it is mainly a below treeline tool. I lost a couple to the wind gods on the glaciers of the mighty Baker-horn. A small one could be worth the weight if you were strictly backpacking. I always had a dry pair of thermal top and bottom for sleeping. I would not wear wet clothes at night but just put the wet clothes back on in the morning and sack up. But I always have down bags so I could not dry my clothes out if unable to dry the bag the following day. Dang Dane, that wet trip sounds insane. Props for hanging in there when the rain started. I run at the first sign foulness. ditto to the thanks to SAR guys. Much like the lineman guys with PUD, they are always out in the sick weather, doing good work. Thanks SAR and PUD lineman.

I have spent too many days in the hills in the rain. The above advice is very sound but my best piece of advice I could offer is...if it rains, go home. really. Rain throws in another element into the slurry of objective hazards. You have got to be hardcore to want to summit anything in the rain. or are a SAR. or doing the pacific crest trail.

backbone is a more fun route. if you are doing stuart and prussik, then backbone will make a fine addition. those three in one trip would be a stellar trip.

I tried to use my mtn boots on a regular high back binding. There is some pain due to the fact that the boots don't go higher than the high back. Some wierd pinching that was bearable but did detract from the experience. I tried taping on a small bit of foam to my leg but it just falls off. If your boots are higher than the high back, you should be fine. Koflach made a mtneering snowboard boot many years ago. Looked like a nepal top. I should have got one but didn't. All good things get discontinued quick.

it is a backup and therefore can be shitty.

I have big expectations of my partners and besides draggin me up hard shit, I expect that they make damn good anchors. If they made a anchor like the slung pebbles shown, I would not climb with them. thanks for sharing and I hope this thread makes someone who is making shitty anchors think twice about it. Damn Billbob, why the hate?

May is a rough time to have 5 days off for. How about the boston basin area? You could always do forbidden, sahale, sharkfin, buckner or the torment forbidden traverse.

nice looking place you have. Too far for me though.

nice and great choice for music.

though the vast majority of climbers are good about trash, this message should be for all climbers.

by june for the "alpine ice routes" not glacier walk ups out: colchuck couloirs dragontail colfax greybeard cutthroat chair colonial in but possibly spicy stuart routes in and in good shape probably baker maude buckner shuksan rainier

+1 of using non crevasse for practice. You can use manmade snow features as well. Not suggesting a half pipe but there can be some cut banks in ski area parking lots and along some roads. Use common sense on site choice though. We once did "crevasse rescue" on the recently cut out "trail" from hwy to the toilets up at washington pass. If you are going to a determined location for your practice, keep a eye out while driving for easy man made features. Also, non evergreen trees may have a branch that is low and horizontal enough to be able to throw a rope around (to be able to setup a regular TR) to do a good prussik practice. If you need a real crevasse, not much will be available till the snow starts to melt. You could use moats near rock faces. Use common sense again in regards to rock fall into moats.

what is the song in the video. good stuff. good climbing too.

the biner looks good. well worth the $15. having key chain biners on a rock rack sounds like a bad idea, especially if you are swapping leads. There are plenty of lightweight full strength biners out there that using toy biners is unnecessary .

sweet. I would think it is hard to ice climb and kayak the same day in banff.

thanks y'all. I will run by those names with MIke tomorrow. Will also try yoder on him.

winter has started.

Alan was way too straight cut for a pony tail. Plus I think he was mostly a AAI company man. The guy I am looking for a rainier guy who did lots of solo/side work. Maybe pirate work as no one was looking at them back in those days. Yeah, I know this is a futile attempt. Just trying to help out a old cool guy. And yes, I have never seen a photo of Wickwire or the allman brothers. Thanks Mark for the 70's education.

I am a choade and I don't want to be patented.