genepires

I got some draws on a rad 5.6 Please don't take my draws.

very good video and music. Is that mask the newest in balaclava from patagonia?

pair of aiders, pair of daisies (regular kinds not PAS) and pair of jugs. The daisies are cheap. Unfortunatley the whole thing will run into a couple hundred bucks I think. You could use prussiks instead of jugs if the line is straight up. Hopefully your partner has some pro and biners to couple with your set of gear for that monster aid rack needs. As seen in your video, you can get by with tied aiders and prussiks but the daisies will help.

"used to be a long distance/marathon runner in High School and Junior High" says it all. Hope you get better. MAybe muscular imbalances? Maybe try to figure out ways to promote more muscular balance in legs and hips areas. (work hamstrings and glutes?)

I think the wierd bounce test was near the end of the video. A #2 tcu high and bounce on a nut below. I would not have brought anything up if I hadn't been in the same spot myself. the testing thing matters more on sketchy aid. City park is a very good long aid pitch. Aid climbing is one of those sports where reading more helps because there is so much rope work, gear management and various techniques to various situations. Always something new to learn there.

not being a hater but your aid sequence needs some streamlining. Plus, it is a good idea to clip the piece after you have tested it either with a bounce or applying full body weight. And why bounce test a nut with a solid cam above it? It should have been bounce tested from below. Just a little friendly advice from someone who is not a aid expert by any means. Get a pair of regular daisy chains and use a fifi on them. read some on aid techniques. try it. read some more. try them. continue ad nauseum. simplify, simplify, simplify to go faster. here is my basic sequence that I am sure many others can improve upon: assume nut for simplicity climb up aiders till nut at waist height. hook fifi into nut. Place next nut as high as possible while still being strong. An extra 2 inches won't matter if it blows. clip daisy to nut. No other biner besides daisy biner. Clip lower piece to rope, take fifi off and give a little bounce test via daisy. Put one or two aiders onto daisy biner (if not on already) and give it full body bounce test as aggresive as you feel like. While bounce testing, your rope is connected to the nut below the testing nut which has been tested already and should hold a good fall. (If the rope is connected to testing nut and it fails, you have introduced slack into the system) If satisfied with the new nut, climb up aiders till at waist height and fifi in again repeat till you are sick of aid climbing and go sport climbing. Once, no hating here just saw a lot of inefficiency going on in the video. Why the equalized anchor mid pitch?

I don't think CF and I have different opinions really. I was just trying to make people think about when to use a boot axe and when not to. the seated hip belay is a very dynamic belay also but I think it is easier to make it dynamic. that may be due to the training though. I never had much practice with the boot axe due mentors opinion on such.

I would agree that the boot axe belay is useful, there are times that this kind of belay is not appropriate. I have seen many times people using a boot axe in very bad situations and when I talked to them about it, they usually bring up the Schoening or similar arguements. Before some newbie reads this thread, reads a little of the freedom of the hills, runs out and has one fail, I would like to throw out a few thoughts on the boot axe belay. -is the snow strong enough to hold the expected force applied? Is the snow soft and new? Mushy afternoon snow? Like pickets, a frozen surface crust over mush is better than the opposite. Obviously frozen all the way down is ideal. Also, are you catching a leader fall? (really, I have seen it) Or catching a slip on snow that is less than 45 degree steep. -what would the outcome be if there is a fall? You gotta think about the position of the fallen climber at the end of the fall to decide if the boot belay is appropriate. It is ideal if the climber can quickly get back on their feet after the catch Will they be hanging on the rope for a long period of time? (Think crevasse fall or a slide over a cliff) You will need to be holding the rope in a rather uncomfortable position and the failure of the anchor is a matter of time. Boot axe belays of people crossing fragile crevasse bridges drive me nuts. Yeah, you may hold the fall but then what? You gonna stand there all day, hunched over. What if you got to help the injured person out? How are you going to make an anchor in the snow? sorry for the rant. When I hear about the virtues of boot axe belays, my skin crawls. IMO, I like the seated hip belays more than the boot axe. except for the wet butts.

new meaning to the phrase "speed is safety"

probably. I don't care about them listening to my phone calls too. What negative effect is there with the cameras pointing at the climbing wall?

why care about a camera if you are doing nothing wrong?

damn it.....another one of the best is taken too early. condolences to family and friends of Joe.

I'll wait for the day after DPS goes in so there is a boot pack.

you might need to define alpine ice a bit. There is a lot of variety in term of alpine ice such that for some routes, your tools listed are not good options. I've been on some alpine ice where the regular mtn axe 60 cm was better than the reverse curve ice tool.(N face maude and buckner come to mind) While a iced up gulley would be a good terrain for your listed tools.

beckey route lib bell. south face ingals pk scan through the selected guide and see what fits your bill, then go and follow the masses to the route, right behind me.

right on and good job. I am not sure what happened but it sounds like you kicked some fed ass in court.

what are the winter boots you own? I doubt the s evo is stiff enough but maybe you cannonball calves?

If you are planning overnight snow camping trips, you may need to invest in a insulated pants also. Down may be a better choice for small females for both jacket and pants, due to the weight of the item and the heat retention ability. By down now or buy it later, either way.

While I am not for the parking fees, it is only $30 a year and there are a lot of poor people buying $5 coffee drinks on a regular basis. If they can afford to drive to the trailheads, they can afford the parking fee. The arguement against parking fees based on eliminating the poor doesn't hold.

while not basalt, I tried climbing in a quarry (it had bolts so someone is using it) and I thought it was very loose. A loose rock face would not be a good business location. Maybe you need to consult with a geologist to see what the face would be if you did some blasting. My gut feeling is that blasting would shake the place enough to destroy any good location.

damn sweet.

go in do what you can and rappel at a predetermined time. You will have the approach and lower pitch info for a full ascent next spring. don't let the haters deter ya.

climbing in shorts and larches! not a common occurance. nice job.

I fell into a crevasse (two feet dangle but only down into waist) near the top of the inter glacier. Very unexpected as the next glacier has more crevasses of size. There is a way to get from the top of the inter glacier to sherman without getting on the glacier again via downclimbing some shitty looking rock and the rangers use it often. The rangers often use another approach to not step on the inter glacier too but it cuts off the main trial early, goes up a different valley and runs along a ridge climbers left of the inter glacier. I have never done it so that is all the beta I got.

for $75, it better go in on it's own.