genepires

with the prevailing attitude of this place, why would anyone? incomplete information, assumptions, jumping to conclusions and then the critical judgements are common practice here. why do you care so much if there is a "mess" up there?

either 3 oclock rock (total soul?), the comb or maybe the first dozen pitches of slab daddy. PM me.

it seems like just hosing off the set up tent would be a good idea. The boots are usually so filthy already that washing it is pointless. Seems like the pores in goretex are smaller than ash size so having ash get into the pores should be unlikely. But clogging up the pores is a possibility. I doubt any actual harm to the material has or will happen.

the infamous rope question without what the use of said rope will be. You asking about cragging or alpine rock? buy whatever is on sale.

a sport line up that feature would be sweet. I think the masses on the aid line would not mind much.

seems like there is a lot of people here that sell their msh permit. on this site. good luck and if not, I would say adams as it is non glaciated and hood is glaciated sort of.

??? do you hang onto everything? let it all go man. it is only electrons of people acting out in ways they would not in person.

I nominate Steph as the best TR poster ever. another steller job.

really high and has some snow. You should be able to see it from bothell. really, you need the ALL CAPS?

dads life is rad. the base jump is almost as rad. and rad is rad. and a dad.

Nice photos. nice looking country. very cool "weird geological" ridge.

how come so cheap? Is it one way?

there was (and hopefully still is) a pay phone at the mazama general store. the early winters campground (my name may be off but the nearest campground to mazama) is nice too. I haven't stayed at any other though. A nice creek to chill beers. If you are on the cheap, you can stay at the cutthroat trail head for free. there are a scattering of camp spots or stay in your vehicles. A outhouse is available and a creak is nearby. I have not had issues with bugs there but I could have been lucky.

If memory serves right, it is all 25m or less. We had 2 ropes but put one away for the descent. Seems like having two ropes would guarantee getting a rope stuck due to the blocky nature.

damn impressive. Would be really cool to see a before and after shots of the peak. ANyway you can post that?

cool TR. good idea! BTW, there is a booger in your nose in the last photo.

the snow should be soft enough that crampons would not be needed for the descent. Just bring a axe and call it good for the walk off. far far safer than some rarely done rappels. Now you will prolly need the axe for the getting to the start of the route. It will be frozen hard and sketching across that without a means to self arrest....nothing needs to be said. If you can't climb with an extra pound of metal on the back, then maybe you should not be on backbone.

if the doc would remove your legs, you could prolly bust out another couple hundred pullups.

16 minutes per pitch!

strange leash for a venom. The twist leash is best suited for water ice tools where you hardly ever grab the head of the tool. (insert beavis & butthead laughter) switching from the hand on the lower shaft to head would need to have the strap around the shaft slide up as well. It would prolly catch and become frustrating. Just my opinion though.....

might rain this saturday up there and restock the puddles.

why not just prodeal a couple of good packs? I think your durability needs are a bit excessive. I guided for 8 years and never had to retire a pack.

very very sad. it didn't even look like a ice cave that collapsed but rather a big chunk of the compact snow. Could have happened to any place near snow.

The new #6 is about the same as a old #5? If so, the #6 will work for that pitch. You may need to climb a move or two into it before you can get it in though.

very cool that you have a friend to climb with after 30 years. GReat TR! The route sounds good. Why was it taken out of the Selected classics of cascades? (between 1st and 2nd editions)