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John Frieh

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John Frieh last won the day on January 26 2019

John Frieh had the most liked content!

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About John Frieh

  • Rank
    sprayer
  • Birthday 12/02/1978

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    PDX
  1. [TR] Sloan Peak - Corkscrew 11/17/2018

    Great TR. How long did the approach take before you broke out of the brush? How was the road to where you parked?
  2. GPS struggled at times on the face but it give you a good general idea of the route. SuuntoMovie.mp4
  3. Trip: Mount Temple - Greenwood Jones Trip Date: 08/03/2017 Details: Given the reputation and lore select Canadian Rockies north faces hold I've always wanted to climb one but never had the opportunity minus a failed attempt on GCC on Kitchner way back in the late fall of 2008. High my list was/is any route on Mount Temple but avy conditions in the winter and grizzly conditions in the summer/fall had prevented me from ever trying. My understanding is most years the CAN parks require (communists ) a minimum party size of 4 for anyone entering the area below the north face or risk BIG fines (and possibly a grizzly encounter ). As finding another team of 2 keen on an alpine start that was also willing to climb a different route was pretty much impossible I never have had a chance to try. However in August of 2017 I heard they made the party size a recommendation and not a requirement. Lucky for me Daniel Harro was also keen so we pointed it north. Based on dawn & sunrise times and our plan to filter water at the lake we settled on a 3:30 departure. We started the face slightly later than I had hoped and wandered around trying to make sense of the beta before settling into the route. Everything you heard is true: choss to perfection and everything in between. Not the worst rock I have climbed but Oregon volcano climbers have a high threshold. Managed to climb it without placing pins but we definitely clipped a few along the way. All in all an awesome route and deserving of the status. I definitely want to come back for Greenwood Locke (in colder temps) and the Cardiac Arete on the Grand Sentinel looks awesome. We found this TR in conjunction the most useful for route finding but even then we scratched our heads more than once and I had to reverse/downclimb a few false starts. Pins can show the way as well as get you way off route If you try to do it in a day (which I recommend as it makes the packs more manageable) you need to save as much daylight as possible for the descent; I would expect attempting to follow the cairns down in the dark even with a headlamp challenging at best especially if you go back to your car via Paradise Valley. A google search will turn up more than a few TRs that detail a night spent out high on the mountain. Gear Notes: Standard rack. Took pins but didnt use them. Crampon and mini ice axe. Approach Notes: Opted for the car to car option
  4. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @jon I clip them on my neutrinos. And they save ones face a little when someone forgets the sunscreen
  5. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @JasonG the chockstone pic is the actual crux; ice or no ice. Looking at the guidebook and the few other pics I could find usually the ice forms a curtain over the chockstone which I could see making it a little easier...? Either way it was a fun day out for us
  6. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @olyclimber Air France and Alaska Air love me but not for my climbing travel
  7. first ascent [TR] Strobach - Jatinga (FA) 01/30/2018

    Thanks @JasonG I've got a Mt Temple Greenwood Jones TR and a Montana/Wyoming trip in the works.
  8. Trip: Strobach - Jatinga (FA) Trip Date: 01/30/2018 Summary: First Ascent of Jatinga WI4 35m John Frieh and Joel Campeau January 30 2018 Details: Joel and Jen did a recon trip the weekend prior and baited me with photos of what appeared to be unclimbed ice climbers right of "First on Right." Even better it looked extremely similar to the Hyalite classic "The Thrill is Gone." Two days later Joel and I returned and made good time to the base drafting the trail he and Jen had punched in a few days prior. I saddled up and with a cool head and creative ice screw placements was able piece it together before finally getting good rock gear higher up. Finally "interesting" thin climbing (classic Strobach) guarded the top out. We rapped off a tree climbers right of the top out. Joel followed and we then ran a lap on what apparently was the very first route ever climbed at Strobach "First on Right" which we both found to be very steep off the ground before easing higher up. Joel and I did some recon hiking after that and found some other possabilities that Jen and he climbed the weekend after that. Hopefully they post a TR soon! Shout and a BIG thanks to Alex Krawarik for always being willing and able to answer all my Strobach questions! You the man! Gear Notes: Rock gear + stubbies recommended (required?) Approach Notes: Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide
  9. PORTLAND! Tonight, Wednesday, at 7 pm at Arcteryx on NW 23rd Radek will share photos from this trip and others. FREE BEER, Arcteryx prizes and international climbing radness. Hope to see you there!
  10. New, extended Enchantment Area permit season

    Just in time for the new guidebook
  11. Food on the Ruth Glacier

    I usually take a 0 for basecamp. The -20 is probably the safe bet unless you can borrow a 0 from someone.
  12. Food on the Ruth Glacier

    20 will work unless you go in early April... Early and late April are often very different.
  13. Yes they have. Brunckhorst guide book
  14. Hyalite/Bozeman beta

    +1 for Royal 7. Great spot
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