genepires

I nominate Steph as the best TR poster ever. another steller job.

really high and has some snow. You should be able to see it from bothell. really, you need the ALL CAPS?

dads life is rad. the base jump is almost as rad. and rad is rad. and a dad.

Nice photos. nice looking country. very cool "weird geological" ridge.

how come so cheap? Is it one way?

there was (and hopefully still is) a pay phone at the mazama general store. the early winters campground (my name may be off but the nearest campground to mazama) is nice too. I haven't stayed at any other though. A nice creek to chill beers. If you are on the cheap, you can stay at the cutthroat trail head for free. there are a scattering of camp spots or stay in your vehicles. A outhouse is available and a creak is nearby. I have not had issues with bugs there but I could have been lucky.

If memory serves right, it is all 25m or less. We had 2 ropes but put one away for the descent. Seems like having two ropes would guarantee getting a rope stuck due to the blocky nature.

damn impressive. Would be really cool to see a before and after shots of the peak. ANyway you can post that?

cool TR. good idea! BTW, there is a booger in your nose in the last photo.

the snow should be soft enough that crampons would not be needed for the descent. Just bring a axe and call it good for the walk off. far far safer than some rarely done rappels. Now you will prolly need the axe for the getting to the start of the route. It will be frozen hard and sketching across that without a means to self arrest....nothing needs to be said. If you can't climb with an extra pound of metal on the back, then maybe you should not be on backbone.

if the doc would remove your legs, you could prolly bust out another couple hundred pullups.

16 minutes per pitch!

strange leash for a venom. The twist leash is best suited for water ice tools where you hardly ever grab the head of the tool. (insert beavis & butthead laughter) switching from the hand on the lower shaft to head would need to have the strap around the shaft slide up as well. It would prolly catch and become frustrating. Just my opinion though.....

might rain this saturday up there and restock the puddles.

why not just prodeal a couple of good packs? I think your durability needs are a bit excessive. I guided for 8 years and never had to retire a pack.

very very sad. it didn't even look like a ice cave that collapsed but rather a big chunk of the compact snow. Could have happened to any place near snow.

The new #6 is about the same as a old #5? If so, the #6 will work for that pitch. You may need to climb a move or two into it before you can get it in though.

very cool that you have a friend to climb with after 30 years. GReat TR! The route sounds good. Why was it taken out of the Selected classics of cascades? (between 1st and 2nd editions)

similar situation happened to a canadian team on baker some 8 years ago. (+ or _ 3 years) A team was coming down the coleman deming just below the pumice ridge, when all fell into a crack. I believe it was late season and very icy. Last guy in was dead but the others were ok. Very sad and spooky. I think they had to spend the night in the crack before getting rescued by park personnel and AAI guides.

man up and keep your name public. Only pussies use alias online.

screw crampons and their bags. chop steps with long alpin stock axes. keep crown royal in the bag instead of crampons. better yet, stay home and get drunk on said crown.

those little icy trail spikes that hikers use for thier shoes would be a good idea if you are on the fence about crampons. getting to the base would require about 20 minutes of step chopping if there is no boot pack across. Falling on that traverse would be a VERY BAD thing. (for someone without a axe) Chopping steps would make the spirit of Conrad Kain proud though!

purdy!

damn, I hope i am half the badass your dad is when I am 65. super cool for you two.

that rappel near the top can be avoided with a down climb a little lower down. Maybe 30 feet before the station and obviously down to the right. There are small cracks (for pro) and jugs to keep it around mid 5th. Seems like this spot is right before it gets steeper.