genepires

if you were 15 pounds heavier, the rope would stretch enough to reach the anchors. So the real solution is for you to use the new rope money on fatty foods instead. Do you know how many burgers you can get for the price of a rope? Like 150 burgers from the dollar menu or god knows how many cheap taco-hell soft tacos. Our rope is a rather old (so it prolly has shrunk somewhat) 60 m rope that BD was distributing. It would be interesting to measure it out but my feel is that it is 57m rope. You must have been using some really short 60m ropes.

what are some examples of the "bad" or heavy guidebooks? Back in the cheap days, I would photocopy most guidebooks (I know...BAD me). But that allowed me to pull out selected pages easily. Most parking spots in l'worth only had a couple pages of routes accessed. If the weight of the guidebook is too much, photocopy the pages from your store purchased guidebook that you need for the day. 85 sheets ($8.50) would cover the icicle area. A cheaper option is to make your buddy carry the guidebook and the beer.

I have a "in the field" repair job using regular seam seal that has lasted 7 years. Your repair kit should work better. Maybe the material used is not good for adhering to glues? Maybe you have another small hole? (try the tub trick)

I once dreamt of doing one elcap route in 3 years. right on for 3 in a day!

We did that feb buttress route this spring with one 60m rope. Was VERY careful with that first rappel as it is a solid 30 plus a little extra rappel but I think we made to the anchor with 2" of extra rope. You can walk off bath tub dome. I think bath tub dome 5.8 is like pearly gate 5.8.

as usual, nice photos.

One could kick steps half way up bugaboo spire. Kain didn't have it so easy.

Hey Rad, you could leave behind one of those cable swage draws (no nylon) fixed with biners on it. Maybe yates? Would definately last longer but more importantly, would be less visually obtrusive. maybe not yates but there some american company that made them some years ago. Maybe someone with a better memory can chime in.

Nice job.

he was bear grylls-ing.

uh......What can one say after seeing that?

you talking about the rolled aluminum rings that are used with webbing or the fixe bolted anchor kind of rings? I think it is bad to lower off the rolled aluminum rings due to the strength being reduced on a already relatively weak ring. I think it is bad to lower off the fixe sort of rings too because as the rope wears the rings down, it is impossible to replace the rings without destroying the anchor.

I soloed half dome once in 15 minutes. Would have been faster but there was too many tourists on the cables. That boy is friggin good. crazy good.

I want my 10 minutes back.

sweet satelite photo and you can see the pooty tang towers!

do you have glacier skills?

While I have not been on it (just walked by the base) I could make a conjecture. If you are good enough and confident enough to be able to do get to the top, I think you can walk off climbers left.

damn cool. way to make the most of the small break in weather and go big at the same time.

for wash pass, I like the usual suspects east butt s early (you can easily aid through the hard bits) west face s early west face n early (you can easily aid through the hard bits) a new area above cutthroat TH maybe called cutthroat wall, search for Blake TR some 3 or 5 years ago n face burgundy

I went to the city in august once and it wasn't too hot. Maybe we were lucky. sierras too far away?

protection on rock climbs are important. so is hydration. the above photo is a perfect piece of pro.

rope gun setting up TR's kong frogs for conversation pieces.

the method favored by petzl and many euros uses one double runner. Girth hitch double runner to harness. Tie overhand knot in middle of sling giving you two equal loops. Clip belay device into loop closer to harness and use other loop to clip to anchor. When rapping, clip locker that was the connection to anchor to rope that gets pulled after rappel is over. (as a reminder for which rope to pull) don't know if this is the answer to your question.

nice job.

you made a good call. Last time I was up in there a big slough came down and we were in small gulleys in the constrictions. We barely missed getting caught up in it. The snow came from sun warmed rocks which sent a small slab off. The temps weren't that warm either.