genepires

One could kick steps half way up bugaboo spire. Kain didn't have it so easy.

Hey Rad, you could leave behind one of those cable swage draws (no nylon) fixed with biners on it. Maybe yates? Would definately last longer but more importantly, would be less visually obtrusive. maybe not yates but there some american company that made them some years ago. Maybe someone with a better memory can chime in.

Nice job.

he was bear grylls-ing.

uh......What can one say after seeing that?

you talking about the rolled aluminum rings that are used with webbing or the fixe bolted anchor kind of rings? I think it is bad to lower off the rolled aluminum rings due to the strength being reduced on a already relatively weak ring. I think it is bad to lower off the fixe sort of rings too because as the rope wears the rings down, it is impossible to replace the rings without destroying the anchor.

I soloed half dome once in 15 minutes. Would have been faster but there was too many tourists on the cables. That boy is friggin good. crazy good.

I want my 10 minutes back.

sweet satelite photo and you can see the pooty tang towers!

do you have glacier skills?

While I have not been on it (just walked by the base) I could make a conjecture. If you are good enough and confident enough to be able to do get to the top, I think you can walk off climbers left.

damn cool. way to make the most of the small break in weather and go big at the same time.

for wash pass, I like the usual suspects east butt s early (you can easily aid through the hard bits) west face s early west face n early (you can easily aid through the hard bits) a new area above cutthroat TH maybe called cutthroat wall, search for Blake TR some 3 or 5 years ago n face burgundy

I went to the city in august once and it wasn't too hot. Maybe we were lucky. sierras too far away?

protection on rock climbs are important. so is hydration. the above photo is a perfect piece of pro.

rope gun setting up TR's kong frogs for conversation pieces.

the method favored by petzl and many euros uses one double runner. Girth hitch double runner to harness. Tie overhand knot in middle of sling giving you two equal loops. Clip belay device into loop closer to harness and use other loop to clip to anchor. When rapping, clip locker that was the connection to anchor to rope that gets pulled after rappel is over. (as a reminder for which rope to pull) don't know if this is the answer to your question.

nice job.

you made a good call. Last time I was up in there a big slough came down and we were in small gulleys in the constrictions. We barely missed getting caught up in it. The snow came from sun warmed rocks which sent a small slab off. The temps weren't that warm either.

http://www.fullscreen360.com/st-helens.htm 360 degree view from summit of st helens, just move the mouse around and click to get all the sights without the hassle of walking! Maybe they could make one for every peak and we can sit at home.

not trying to belittle the trouble they are in, but I saw a video from their local news stations in which the towns people were tearing down the building before the water took them over. This is a question for someone who has experience with life in that kind of high country. What would be the reason for doing that? It didn't look like the building blocks could be used for another building on higher ground. If they left it standing, would the water do something to the blocks? There is also another landslide dam forming on another fork of the same valley. If it broke, the inrush of water could overwelm the current attabad landslide dam making an even bigger mess.

there are spots for a 12 point turn around for long bed pickup trucks. Car can probably do it in a 3 point turn without bashing trees around. from where we parked, (might have been the 8 oclock TH. We should have persevered a little longer but we like our vehicles too much) it was a mile or so of easy walking the where the road got real beat up. Then we got the ride but the going was real slow so we probably didn't save much time. I can't remember the exact times, but allowing 2 hours for all of the approach seems right and conservative.

as of last summer, the forester would get a real beating. You can drive for a while, maybe a mile, before it got real rough. We managed to hitch a rid in a ways but that truck got real beat up. Even though it was rather extreme "fun", I am glad it wasn't my vehicle. I would say take the forester but at first sign of it getting bad, park facing the drive home.

try calling American Alpine Institute gear shop. REI (shutter that I am saying this) has shoes but I don't know what models.

yeah! snow covered slabs. If the rap anchors were hard to find in the summer, then imagine it now.