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Everything posted by genepires
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[TR] Alpine Lakes (Alpental) - Improbable Traverse 10/2/2010
genepires replied to Ed_Hobbick's topic in Alpine Lakes
if it wasn't for the rope, it would look impossible. nice job finally getting on it. -
what about old hacks? can we ex non-hardman be the human sacrifice for the AMGA?
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heal fast. You both handled the situation in the best way possible. Much thanks to the rescue people involved.
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Red Rocks ? - headed there for the 1st time
genepires replied to wfinley's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
regular cars are fine for even the black velvet canyon drive. Just don't tell the rental agency you are going to red rocks to climb. You are driving the strip and never going to think about leaving town. Otherwise they will give you the business and strong arm you into a expensive SUV. If you bottom out a couple of times, no one will ever know if you go slow. routes frogland is very good for your grade (shady) dark shadows (shady) lotta balls wall NOvember may be cold so you will have to chase the south facing aspects cat in the hat (5.6) all day sun solar slab (5.6) all day sun olive oil (5.8) late morning to early afternoon sun tunnel vision (5.8) with morning only sun do your homework before getting on routes there. Know the approach and descent. Have double ropes. get a early start and watch out for prickly plants. Some guidebooks have some mistakes. If you know the routes you want to do, ask people for advice on it before going out there. I lived out there for one year and would give you advice for specific routes if needed. JasonMartin has done lots more than me out there too. -
damn it all..there is no justice. Met Dallas a couple time and he was one of the most friendly outgoing guys I ever met. Both times were very good encounters. We all will miss this great man.
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anything BUT video games. They rot the brain and there will be no future for you to return to.
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he shimmies himself back across, flossing the crap out of his ass crack.
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I think it is a plastic firemans hat. maybe discarded poop is the objective hazard and a firemans hat is good protection to this hazard.
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I actually had no idea. No fire fight experience. I also go my helicopters mixed up. I thought the black hawk was the skinny 1 person one, armed to the hilt with stealth capabilities.
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what could a black hawk heli do to help with fires? shoot missles at the fire?
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[TR] City of Rocks and Smith, moderates - many 9/20/2010
genepires replied to markwebster's topic in Idaho
I think the theatre of shadows used to be called cruel shoes in older guidebooks. The first time I went there, tied to a tree branch at the base was a pair of baby shoes with a crossed pair of small bones (mice?) in the laces. I will never forget that. The second time I went there it was gone and never went back to that crag. If they are the same route, then both names are not really good for a description. Maybe "Grandma's lead". Yes the city is my fave cragging place, hair width better than squamish only due to the wilderness like ambiance. -
peace brother. getting all angry about it will cause you harm. it is only a shoe and not worth the angst. yes karma will take care of it so please let it go. you are creating bad karma for yourself by hanging onto it with negative emotions. the way to create good karma is to harbor feelings of goodwill especially to those who would do you or your property harm. So, feel sorry for this thief and invite them into your home. (if you care about your own karma)
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cool! you should name it the toddler rock or something. where is this place specifically? Not at sunbug?
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ease off but hang in there to toughen up. never heard of blisters on hands while climbing. not from the rope?
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[TR] Crown Point - Peeler Lake & Rock Island Pass 9/11/2010
genepires replied to off_the_hook's topic in California
beautiful sea of granite. damn good looking country. -
spooky! It is amazing than OSHA doesn't jump all over that shit. I can't expose myself to a 10 foot fall without fall protection yet these guys can expose themselves to a 1700 ft fall. and lightning.
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two words. la nina. translates to high prob of rain this fall/winter so there is a low prob of doing anything other than standing around wearing goretex unless you are a ubber hardperson suffer madman. with good weather, it is probably fine shape given the summer (or lack thereof) we had.
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from AAI website that has NZ trips Our New Zealand ascents are led in conjunction with Adventure Consultants, a New Zealand based guide service and mountaineering school whose internationally certified guides have extensive experience guiding and instructing on the high peaks of the world. AAI and Adventure Consultants offer three ascent programs in the Southern Alps and they are described below. 1. A Week of Classic Ascents (7 days, all levels) Join us for a week of climbing in New Zealand's magnificent Southern Alps as we review skills and then enjoy the pleasures of alpine climbing in this superb range. Climbing at a 2:1 or a 1:1 climber to guide ratio, we customize the itinerary at beginner, intermediate, or more advanced levels to fit your skills and ambitions. Guide and climber greet the dawn above Mt. Cook's Grand Plateau. This program's use of helicopters and huts allows us to pack a great deal of quality climbing into a short trip. On a typical seven-day itinerary, we first fly to Pioneer Hut on the Fox Glacier where we review skills, and then the next day ascend our first route on Mt. Von Bulow. From the same base we also climb Glacier Peak and Lendenfield Peak and from their summits enjoy tremendous views of the Southern Alps and of the nearby Tasman Sea. We later climb over West-Hoe Pass and establish ourselves at Centennial Hut. From here we can make several ascents, with the beautiful Minarets as a likely choice from which we enjoy terrific views of the many rugged peaks surrounding the upper Tasman Glacier as well as of the Malte Brun Range. Pricing: (Includes air access flight, guiding, permit fees, ground transport, all meals and snacks, hut accommodation, and New Zealand 12.5% GST. ) 2:1 - NZ$3150 per person 1:1 - NZ$5350 so for 7 days it would cost over $5000. He wants 18 days so proportionally it would cost $12860. This is considerably more than his plan for airfare, food, ect. I am not discounting the possibility of this being a troll though but it makes sense number wise. (if he can find a suitable person to take over there which is a expensive gamble) Try finding a seasonal guide who is not working right now and just wants to go climbing. Maybe offer $50 per day with all the expenses too.
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that is a lot of work for a troll.
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Whats 'in' for moderate technical Alpine?
genepires replied to Lucky Larry's topic in Climber's Board
das toof = the tooth at snoqualmie pass. -
[TR] Squamish - - Sixty-Nine 8/23/2010
genepires replied to marc_leclerc's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
this is at murrin right? -
Whats 'in' for moderate technical Alpine?
genepires replied to Lucky Larry's topic in Climber's Board
ingals peak? das toof. both of these should be in good condition with a day of good weather. there is always the good crags of the icicle canyon to get the rock mojo back. -
I saw something similar many years ago (maybe 4?) at the same place. If all the debris is not in the accumulation zone of the glacier, it could be the same flow that maybe gets exposed late every summer. can you see fresh tracks in the snow so that it came down recently? Given the activity in that crater, it would not be unrealistic to think that BIG chunks would fall off from the hanging glacier above and flow downwards on a fairly regular interval. How about that for objective hazards on a glacier route?
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when in doubt, always buy french