genepires

what could a black hawk heli do to help with fires? shoot missles at the fire?

I think the theatre of shadows used to be called cruel shoes in older guidebooks. The first time I went there, tied to a tree branch at the base was a pair of baby shoes with a crossed pair of small bones (mice?) in the laces. I will never forget that. The second time I went there it was gone and never went back to that crag. If they are the same route, then both names are not really good for a description. Maybe "Grandma's lead". Yes the city is my fave cragging place, hair width better than squamish only due to the wilderness like ambiance.

peace brother. getting all angry about it will cause you harm. it is only a shoe and not worth the angst. yes karma will take care of it so please let it go. you are creating bad karma for yourself by hanging onto it with negative emotions. the way to create good karma is to harbor feelings of goodwill especially to those who would do you or your property harm. So, feel sorry for this thief and invite them into your home. (if you care about your own karma)

cool! you should name it the toddler rock or something. where is this place specifically? Not at sunbug?

ease off but hang in there to toughen up. never heard of blisters on hands while climbing. not from the rope?

beautiful sea of granite. damn good looking country.

spooky! It is amazing than OSHA doesn't jump all over that shit. I can't expose myself to a 10 foot fall without fall protection yet these guys can expose themselves to a 1700 ft fall. and lightning.

two words. la nina. translates to high prob of rain this fall/winter so there is a low prob of doing anything other than standing around wearing goretex unless you are a ubber hardperson suffer madman. with good weather, it is probably fine shape given the summer (or lack thereof) we had.

from AAI website that has NZ trips Our New Zealand ascents are led in conjunction with Adventure Consultants, a New Zealand based guide service and mountaineering school whose internationally certified guides have extensive experience guiding and instructing on the high peaks of the world. AAI and Adventure Consultants offer three ascent programs in the Southern Alps and they are described below. 1. A Week of Classic Ascents (7 days, all levels) Join us for a week of climbing in New Zealand's magnificent Southern Alps as we review skills and then enjoy the pleasures of alpine climbing in this superb range. Climbing at a 2:1 or a 1:1 climber to guide ratio, we customize the itinerary at beginner, intermediate, or more advanced levels to fit your skills and ambitions. Guide and climber greet the dawn above Mt. Cook's Grand Plateau. This program's use of helicopters and huts allows us to pack a great deal of quality climbing into a short trip. On a typical seven-day itinerary, we first fly to Pioneer Hut on the Fox Glacier where we review skills, and then the next day ascend our first route on Mt. Von Bulow. From the same base we also climb Glacier Peak and Lendenfield Peak and from their summits enjoy tremendous views of the Southern Alps and of the nearby Tasman Sea. We later climb over West-Hoe Pass and establish ourselves at Centennial Hut. From here we can make several ascents, with the beautiful Minarets as a likely choice from which we enjoy terrific views of the many rugged peaks surrounding the upper Tasman Glacier as well as of the Malte Brun Range. Pricing: (Includes air access flight, guiding, permit fees, ground transport, all meals and snacks, hut accommodation, and New Zealand 12.5% GST. ) 2:1 - NZ$3150 per person 1:1 - NZ$5350 so for 7 days it would cost over $5000. He wants 18 days so proportionally it would cost $12860. This is considerably more than his plan for airfare, food, ect. I am not discounting the possibility of this being a troll though but it makes sense number wise. (if he can find a suitable person to take over there which is a expensive gamble) Try finding a seasonal guide who is not working right now and just wants to go climbing. Maybe offer $50 per day with all the expenses too.

that is a lot of work for a troll.

das toof = the tooth at snoqualmie pass.

this is at murrin right?

ingals peak? das toof. both of these should be in good condition with a day of good weather. there is always the good crags of the icicle canyon to get the rock mojo back.

I saw something similar many years ago (maybe 4?) at the same place. If all the debris is not in the accumulation zone of the glacier, it could be the same flow that maybe gets exposed late every summer. can you see fresh tracks in the snow so that it came down recently? Given the activity in that crater, it would not be unrealistic to think that BIG chunks would fall off from the hanging glacier above and flow downwards on a fairly regular interval. How about that for objective hazards on a glacier route?

sweet photos!

when in doubt, always buy french

TR of the future. way to raise the bar.

a cheap way to keep the floor safe is to use the round metal reflector that came with the stove ontop of some sleeping foam pad. Wouldn't do it on top of a pricey thermarest. cooking in a tent is a desperate situation though. Too much CO and you will be back in walmart, acting like the RV owners, mental patients and elderly needing assistance. wouldn't it be cool if tents came with a little flap (2ft by 2ft) that one could pull back and cook on the ground?

spending money and gear is SO west coast. Everyone should sleep in a walmart pup tent and have a little fire from twigs burning inside. I use a target black iron skillet as a stove board which doubles as protection from bears. Why doesn't everyone agree with me?

right "forgot the camera up there so I gotta go back up honey" nice planning

work on a rainy weekend is a ok thang.

If you can find "mirkwood", walk down the moraine on a small climbers trail that eventually cuts back onto the glacier area. mirkwood is the heavily wooded area on the moraine that is next to the lower coleman and below some prominent rock butte called photographic spot or something like it. If you stay left at all intersections, you should hit mirkwood. The forest service calls it something else but AAI guides call it mirkwood for obvious reasons if you are there in a drizzly day. Call the american alpine institute for exact directions as they go there weekly.

have a backup plan. seasonal forcast and general feel in the air is for a early winter.

interesting that you are primarily a ice/mixed climber and not interested in warm weather rock climbing. Rock climbing is a valuable skill for ice and mixed climbing. While I don't know anything other than what is written above, My rec is to get some serious warm weather rock climbing in before any motions are taken with ice tools. I have met some people who jumped straight to ice and they never got the "feel" for how to move well on the steep terrain. As for ropes, I would have to ask how you are getting off most climbs. Raps longer than 30m? Then get doubles. If they are all 30m or less or walk offs, then you can find thin single lines that have a low impact force. The single would be good for non wandering ice and mixed climbing. Doubles rule in the canadian rockies but I am not sure about your area. Ideally, your ice rope and mixed rope will be different as you should not be falling while on ice but defiantely will on the mixed ground.

another fallen brother. sad indeed.