Taluscat Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 (edited) Trip: Sloan Peak - West Face Date: 12/10/2011 Trip Report: I have posted asking Q's regarding this awesome face though in the meantime I will summarize our accent that occured Saturday and will have Braden follow up with the photos.. So on the lunar eclipse,Braden Downey,Will Hinkley and myself made an accent of a long snow and ice route on the Northeren aspect of the west face and IS the line of weakness to our eyes (well provide an overlay shortly) the route begins at the lowest part of the face and follows a steep ice flow aprx 950' up to grade 4 climbing and provided 5 full length pitches,We found fair quality ice though at times a bit runout and very insecure and coined pitch 4 "The Window" due to a hollow hole in the middle that I gingerly passed "puckered up" high above gear, the flow gave way to an additional 1000' of steep snow and ice to 50' mostly good neve'and solid ice that we climbed ropeless.This deposited us at a prominent notch in the north ridge, we soloed out the notch maybe 40'of easy 4th class with snow before ropeing up for a rock pitch that had a fixed yellow alien, the lead carried upward then went hard left through a very insecure series of off balance moves on really poor feet and worthless tool placements,felt 5.8/. one more lead of easy mixed and steep snice over a short but steep wind blown ridge crest saw us on the west side of the N.ridge, ropes away and the long and sometimes very exposed ridge required an additional 1000' of route finding, down climbing into a deep notch and false summits that were non the less exausting, we finally topped out just pass 3:00pm after 12 hrs on the go A brief snack,high fives and we were now racing the fading light and tempetures down the corkscrew route which none of us were familiar with, incoming clouds made rt.finding issues not so trivial and were further made difficult by nightfall and fading headlamps, the traverse over two passes and basins went supisingly well given the w/x lack of knowledged and whiteout conditions..we were relived to finally make it back to our poles were we could put ourselves in autopilot mode and make the slog back to the car and well deserved beer. I want to thank Braden and Will for an amazing time to a cool place on a fun adventure climb..This was the first time I had met Will and the first time any of had climbed together-it was the beginning of some fun things to come! photos to come soon..thanks for reading.. "Full moon Fever"- New route? IV,AI4R,50',5.8,3000' West Face of Sloan Peak 7835' Braden downey,Will hinkley,Kevin hogan 12/10/2011-lunar eclipse Gear Notes: 3 pins set of stoppers .00,green alien,orange tcu,.75,1,2,3 8 screws 7 draws-3 alpine,3normal,1dbl lentgh Approach Notes: Mt.loop Hwy> FR 4906> Bedal basin trail to bottom of face rd 4906= packed snow and ice,4x4 with some balls or chains reccomended Bedal basin trail= broken trail inn now No flotation needed Edited December 13, 2011 by Taluscat 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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