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Everything posted by Sol

  1. Ride of the Valkyries @ Purina

    Jens tried it a number of years back (10?) but the ancient pins? he saw kept him from really comitting to it. He said it could use a bolt or two to be safe but looked cool.
  2. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Dragons of Eden 07/19/2019

    DOE takes no prisoners!!! Glad to see folks getting after it, not an easy route...! On the 2nd ascent of the route Jens and I broke the headwall into 3 pitches and he onsighted from a semi hanging belay near the wide section thru the roof to the belay your using on the upper headwall. No way in hell we could have freed that upper bit without the scrubbing we did on our next mission.
  3. I made a blog post detailing the most current training plan i'm using for rock climbing, I also talk about my home climbing dojo and touch a bit on trying to be performance rock climber while being a dad to two young children. Climbing Training Fall 2016 - Conjugate Periodization
  4. New crux! WHOA! Thanks for the TR, it's on the list but I am intimidated!
  5. How much fire haze on WA Pass?

    I climbed on the East Face of LIberty Bell on Wednesday and it was damn near perfect. MUCH worse down valley in Mazama. Couldn't see the wine spires for most of the day but up at the pass itself condition were good. Worth noting I'm an east-sider and quite use to smoke. Unless my eyes are burning and i'm coughing I dont really notice it.
  6. Outer Space altered on SCW

    I heard the whole shield fell off and the handcrack is no more..!
  7. Trying this conjugate rock training stuff

    Sounds legit.
  8. Trying this conjugate rock training stuff

    What exactly is muscular endurance training? One thought, if it ain't broke... you know the rest.
  9. Trying this conjugate rock training stuff

    BOOM! Nice work! Always interesting to hear how folks get on with this stuff. A couple thoughts on dealing with the aches and pains in your body of an intense training load is like you said, to build a bigger base more gradually, but also to take 3-7 days off of training every 3-4 weeks. What now?
  10. Cramps

    Not likely. There are two kinds of strokes: ischemic (loss of oxygen to the brain, which is usually due to arterial vessel blockage) and hemorrhagic (bleeding). Both cause irreversible damage in proportion to the size/area affected. As a long shot, this could be a temporary vessel occlusion (blockage) that is released within minutes of stopping the descent. That would be very unlikely. Add that no permanent effects have yet been detected and it seems even more unlikely to explain this. Maybe Dr Phil can help... I'm a certified Neurologic RN who works with acute stroke victims and I will say that these symptoms are consistent with a Transient Ischemic Attack (TIA or Mini-stroke) which only last 1-30 minutes and then completely resolve.. Might be worth a quick Head CT or MRI to rule out any type of vascular abnormalities.
  11. Trip: Mt Stuart - FA: King Kong - Gorillas in the Mist Direct Direct Date: 9/9/2016 Trip Report: On September 9th I completed a long-term project on the West Face Wall of Mt Stuart: King Kong, AKA Gorillas in the Mist Direct Direct AKA The Joe Puryear Memorial Route - 11d, 900ft. It took multiple attempts over many years and is my most meaningful first ascent to date. This climb was a tribute to fallen alpinist Joe Puryear who died in Tibet in 2010. A lengthy trip report can be found on my blog which recounts not only this ascent but the first ascents of Gorillas in The Mist, Gorillas Direct, and my many failures/attempts in between: Sol Wertkin Blog
  12. Wish I could have made it over. You guys ever think about having one over here in Leavenworth? I imagine we could get a great turnout.
  13. A new route of you guys's that my wife might actually let me go repeat! Thanks for keeping the true North Cascades adventure STOKE alive!
  14. Mikey Likes Rocks

  15. I've said it many times before and I'll say it again, an ascent of Mt Stuart should never be underestimated! Nice work getting out of there with your partners bum knee! RIP 59er Diner (it will be rebuilt)
  16. Sounds like your back in the game Max, nice work on your rehab! EPIC adventure up there, WOW! I've always enjoyed being the friendly local, you end up with lots more friends and six-packs (from loaning your gear, giving beta, offering shower/hottub/places to crash, etc.). Geuss those dudes dont like friends or beer..