Fifty (or more) Favorite Climbs in the PNW

[dberdinka]

Guidelines

 

• One route per person
  
• No duplication
  
• Short Description
  
• 1-3 good photos
  
• Spray elsewhere
  

Edited December 4, 2009 by dberdinka

[dberdinka]

The Sphinx - North Ridge - II 5.9

 

The Sphinx is a relatively small granitic peak located in the remote and lightly traveled heart of Garibaldi Provincial Park. Gettingg there is every bit as appealing as the climb itself and involves a long but straighforward approach through forest, meadow, volcanic moonscapes, high passes and multiple glaciers. The north ridge is a short but highly enjoyable rock climb on sound granite. The climbing gets progessively more difficult and ends with a spectacular pitch of vertical to overhung jam cracks (5.8+). See SW BC Select Guide for more information.

 

Approaching the North Ridge

 

 

Mid-5th class slabs low on the North Ridge

 

The Sphinx & Garibaldi from high camp

[Rad]

I'd say Grand Wall, but plenty of others will choose that. So instead I'll plug a route I was fortunate enough to do with Blake this year:

 

Fire on the Mountain. Sloan SW Face. 5.10+, 8 pitches. A scenic and easy approach via Bedal Creek trailhead leads to a stunning alpine wilderness area. The climbing is really fun, solid, and protectable. The belays are comfy and the views are excellent. Notably, the route finishes at the top of a very prominent glaciated peak with 360 views. Finally, the descent is straightforward and the route should be dry and accessible for a pretty long window each year. For those seeking adventure, this wall holds more fun lines. Go get some! TR with all you need to know to do the route

 

 

[olyclimber]

Davis Holland -Lovin Arms

 

Index Index Index Index

 

First Pitch 5.9 Wet Fun

Second Pitch 5.10 Fun

Third Pitch 5.10 Super Fun

Fourth Pitch hardest for me

Fifth Pitch FUN!

Sixth Pitch Exposed Scramble

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White

[genepires]

nice topic Darin! Maybe we can leave off the usual suspect like Nelson guide climbs.

[DPS]

One of my favorite climbs not in the Nelson guides is the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak.

 

Good description in Beckey guide.

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White

[Crillz]

NEWS Northwest Corner

5.9. III

 

I know Red Fred has a description, but here's what I remember doing:

 

Pitch 1: 5.7 pretty chill with some scrambling & rope drag

Pitch 2: 5.9 take the corner all the way to the horn belay.

Pitch 3: 5.9 "offwidth" corner

Pitch 4: 5.9 continue to almost the top (unrope and scramble to the summit)

 

Edited December 6, 2009 by Crillz

[Pete_H]

E Face of Whitehorse. Classic moderate northwest ice and mixed climbing in an exposed, great position to spectacular summit. Probably forms up fairly consistently.

 

 

 

[Wakaranai]

 

Mithral Dihedral- Not a very long route overall but man that corner is one of my favorites for sure. The elevation adds to the appeal not to mention views of the highest lake in the states (Im told). Bring a 100m rope to do the corner in one pitch (not me in pic, borrowed from supertopo)

[Wakaranai]

Sorry- you said PNW.

WF CBR,or Passenger WA pass

[stevetimetravlr]

What peak is Mithal Dihedral on? That looks stellar!

[genepires]

mithral is on mt russel right next to whitney.

[johndavidjr]

You said "favorites" rather than classic, which are obvious.

I'd say east face of Mix-Up. Most likely to get done only through lack of judgment. Relatively solid rock and turf, mainly quite easy. A truly pointless, pleasant route to nowhere if one doesn't acutally bother struggling to summit.

[wayne]

Mongo for me was the route that I undersold as a classic. It was truly amazing as a climb and experience. It would be very cool to see it repeated someday, but given the remoteness, not a very realistic expectation?

[Le Piston]

If I have to avoid Nelson, my pick would be Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge (II, 5.5) It doesn't have the best rock and the approach on the Gmoser Highway is downright scary, but it is a beautiful peak in a gorgeous area.

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White

[wimsey]

Does Castle Crags count as PNW?

East Face of Castle Dome is one of the most outstanding rock climbs around.

[layton]

Back of Beyond Buttress, SW BC Kokapie (sp?) creek drainage

My 1st rock FA, and still favorite (only alpine route i've ever repeated). I miss you Jordan and Kat

3-4 pitches splitter 10b finger cracks on a smooth granite face, 5~ pitches to 5.10 on a clean granite ridge to an unlcimbed summit. F n A

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/136backofbeyond14.jpg[/img]

 

[img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/136IMG_1094.JPG[/img]

 

link to the original TR and the cc.com good old days

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/61928/site_id/1

[skyclimb]

The North Face of Mt. Cramer was one of the most memorable climbs I have done in the PNW. The quality, difficulty, and adventure where very high.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/828111/TR_Sawtooths_Mt_Cramer_North_F#Post828111

[Pete_H]

I don't think Alberta or Idaho count as PNW. Nice try though.

[Blake]

Salish Peak - Flight of the Falcon

 

Long enough to feel like you climbed something, short enough to not require climbing with packs or boots. Beautiful area, shortish approach, and a peak you wouldn't otherwise bother with. And a cunning line up a steep aspect on the peak's stellar granite.

 

Salish Peak above the Roan Wall

 

 

Starting the route, 20' up pitch #1 due to snow.

 

 

 

Darin having fun! Cant believe we left our beds in Bellingham this morning and are on pitch #14 already...

 

 

Higher on the route:

 

 

[Wakaranai]

Thats a great pic of the whole link up. I wanna do that next year, though from Martha's Place, not car to car like you animals.

[jshamster]

Although I got rained out both times I went to climb Roan/Salish, Martha's Place is an awesome bivy. There's two bolted routes on the bivy boulder as well!

I'll be back.

[el jefe]

is the rock on salish peak as clean as it looks in these photos? looks amazing.

[dberdinka]

Salish is an amazing climb. The rock quality is top notch and the scenery is just incredible. Definitely one of the top ?10 alpine rock climbs in Washington. "animals" ha! I don't think that adjective has been attached to my name before.

 

Come on people, gene, offwhite, all you sprayers, post up! Nothing wrong with a little on topic content.

Edited December 7, 2009 by dberdinka

[denalidave]

Great thread topic. My tic list just keeps getting longer.