[TR] Sawtooths - Mt. Cramer-North Face- 5.11a C2- 8/13/2008

[skyclimb]

Trip: Sawtooths - Mt. Cramer-North Face- 5.11a C2-

 

Date: 8/13/2008

 

Trip Report:

My friend Jimmy Watts and I sent this line. I have been eyeing it for a year now, and when I met Jimmy in the Bugaboo's this spring, I knew that the partner had finally arrived for this endeavor. Jimmy is from Boise, and I usually am around Idaho in the summers looking at timber, so plans were hatched.

I knew the line was steep, and I knew the rock should be solid, but when we got to the face the roofs, and dihedrals were so big, I have to admit we were a little apprehensive.

The line takes the obvious massive dihedral system for 3 long pitchs, and then works right through a roof out onto the face into another beautiful diheadral. From here blast straight up to the top.

Pitch 1- 5.10 C1 65 meters

Pitch 2- 5.10 C2- 59 meters

Pitch 3- 5.10 C2- 30 meters

pitch 4- 5.9 65 meters

pitch 5- 5.11a 58 meters

pitch 6- 5.7 ( a few moves) 55 meters

 

We don't know if this has been done before, all my research and talking with locals has turned up nothing. This route is sustained at the grades, the rock is immaculate, and is a real canidate for being freed ( we aided about 25 feet of the 1,000 ft.). I couldn't have asked for a more headstrong, solid partner. A very memorable day in the hillz!

 

Gear Notes:

Doubles, with one #4 and #5 camelot....rp's very useful on crux free pitch

 

Approach Notes:

Take the boat across redfishake, and hike about 6-8 miles to cramer lake.

[pc313]

Rock on!!

[sparverius]

hell yeah Nick. Good to see you back at it. The rib healed up ok?

[Sol]

that shit looks sick!

 

[powderhound]

Nice work gents. Is that on the same face as Dowdell's: The only dance there is, V 5.10+ 13 pitches?

[skyclimb]

I have not heard of this route you speak of powderhound? It quite possibly could be the same wall. Any info would be great.

The ribs are strong again J, thanks for asking. Hope you are sending strong this summer!

Hey Sol, were you in IC in April? I think I climbed with your buddy Jesse from Grand Junct. for a few days?

[wayne]

Job!

[powderhound]

Look at the Perch. Its a Dowdell route on the Northwest Face and appears to start on the far right and asscend the most prominent sheild.

[mccallboater]

I looked and looked at the N Face of Cramer a week and a half ago on my 12 day trip through the Sawtooths. Even picked out the line on the face that these two did. All I can say is Way to GO! Just getting there is a job, with climbing gear in tow. My cousin and I were hauling nothing extra: my pack weighed about 16 lbs without food and water. No climbing gear at hand for a 90 mile backpack.

 

The face is way up at the end of the Redfish creek drainage. 15 miles maybe of trail from the lake drop off. I believe the 5.10-11 rating.