dberdinka Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) Guidelines One route per person No duplication Short Description 1-3 good photos Spray elsewhere Edited December 4, 2009 by dberdinka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted December 4, 2009 Author Share Posted December 4, 2009 The Sphinx - North Ridge - II 5.9 The Sphinx is a relatively small granitic peak located in the remote and lightly traveled heart of Garibaldi Provincial Park. Gettingg there is every bit as appealing as the climb itself and involves a long but straighforward approach through forest, meadow, volcanic moonscapes, high passes and multiple glaciers. The north ridge is a short but highly enjoyable rock climb on sound granite. The climbing gets progessively more difficult and ends with a spectacular pitch of vertical to overhung jam cracks (5.8+). See SW BC Select Guide for more information. Approaching the North Ridge Mid-5th class slabs low on the North Ridge The Sphinx & Garibaldi from high camp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I'd say Grand Wall, but plenty of others will choose that. So instead I'll plug a route I was fortunate enough to do with Blake this year: Fire on the Mountain. Sloan SW Face. 5.10+, 8 pitches. A scenic and easy approach via Bedal Creek trailhead leads to a stunning alpine wilderness area. The climbing is really fun, solid, and protectable. The belays are comfy and the views are excellent. Notably, the route finishes at the top of a very prominent glaciated peak with 360 views. Finally, the descent is straightforward and the route should be dry and accessible for a pretty long window each year. For those seeking adventure, this wall holds more fun lines. Go get some! TR with all you need to know to do the route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) Davis Holland -Lovin Arms Index Index Index Index First Pitch 5.9 Wet Fun Second Pitch 5.10 Fun Third Pitch 5.10 Super Fun Fourth Pitch hardest for me Fifth Pitch FUN! Sixth Pitch Exposed Scramble Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 nice topic Darin! Maybe we can leave off the usual suspect like Nelson guide climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) One of my favorite climbs not in the Nelson guides is the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak. Good description in Beckey guide. Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crillz Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 (edited) NEWS Northwest Corner 5.9. III I know Red Fred has a description, but here's what I remember doing: Pitch 1: 5.7 pretty chill with some scrambling & rope drag Pitch 2: 5.9 take the corner all the way to the horn belay. Pitch 3: 5.9 "offwidth" corner Pitch 4: 5.9 continue to almost the top (unrope and scramble to the summit) Edited December 6, 2009 by Crillz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 E Face of Whitehorse. Classic moderate northwest ice and mixed climbing in an exposed, great position to spectacular summit. Probably forms up fairly consistently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Mithral Dihedral- Not a very long route overall but man that corner is one of my favorites for sure. The elevation adds to the appeal not to mention views of the highest lake in the states (Im told). Bring a 100m rope to do the corner in one pitch (not me in pic, borrowed from supertopo) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 Sorry- you said PNW. WF CBR,or Passenger WA pass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 What peak is Mithal Dihedral on? That looks stellar! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted December 5, 2009 Share Posted December 5, 2009 mithral is on mt russel right next to whitney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndavidjr Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 You said "favorites" rather than classic, which are obvious. I'd say east face of Mix-Up. Most likely to get done only through lack of judgment. Relatively solid rock and turf, mainly quite easy. A truly pointless, pleasant route to nowhere if one doesn't acutally bother struggling to summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Mongo for me was the route that I undersold as a classic. It was truly amazing as a climb and experience. It would be very cool to see it repeated someday, but given the remoteness, not a very realistic expectation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 (edited) If I have to avoid Nelson, my pick would be Mt. Assiniboine, North Ridge (II, 5.5) It doesn't have the best rock and the approach on the Gmoser Highway is downright scary, but it is a beautiful peak in a gorgeous area. Edited December 7, 2009 by Off_White Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Does Castle Crags count as PNW? East Face of Castle Dome is one of the most outstanding rock climbs around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 Back of Beyond Buttress, SW BC Kokapie (sp?) creek drainage My 1st rock FA, and still favorite (only alpine route i've ever repeated). I miss you Jordan and Kat 3-4 pitches splitter 10b finger cracks on a smooth granite face, 5~ pitches to 5.10 on a clean granite ridge to an unlcimbed summit. F n A [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/136backofbeyond14.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/136IMG_1094.JPG[/img] link to the original TR and the cc.com good old days http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/61928/site_id/1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 The North Face of Mt. Cramer was one of the most memorable climbs I have done in the PNW. The quality, difficulty, and adventure where very high. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/828111/TR_Sawtooths_Mt_Cramer_North_F#Post828111 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 I don't think Alberta or Idaho count as PNW. Nice try though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Salish Peak - Flight of the Falcon Long enough to feel like you climbed something, short enough to not require climbing with packs or boots. Beautiful area, shortish approach, and a peak you wouldn't otherwise bother with. And a cunning line up a steep aspect on the peak's stellar granite. Salish Peak above the Roan Wall Starting the route, 20' up pitch #1 due to snow. Darin having fun! Cant believe we left our beds in Bellingham this morning and are on pitch #14 already... Higher on the route: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wakaranai Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Thats a great pic of the whole link up. I wanna do that next year, though from Martha's Place, not car to car like you animals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Although I got rained out both times I went to climb Roan/Salish, Martha's Place is an awesome bivy. There's two bolted routes on the bivy boulder as well! I'll be back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 is the rock on salish peak as clean as it looks in these photos? looks amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 (edited) Salish is an amazing climb. The rock quality is top notch and the scenery is just incredible. Definitely one of the top ?10 alpine rock climbs in Washington. "animals" ha! I don't think that adjective has been attached to my name before. Come on people, gene, offwhite, all you sprayers, post up! Nothing wrong with a little on topic content. Edited December 7, 2009 by dberdinka Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Great thread topic. My tic list just keeps getting longer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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