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Colin

first winter ascent [TR] Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk 3/12/2007

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Trip: Mt. Huntington - Nettle-Quirk

 

Date: 3/12/2007

 

Trip Report:

On March 10th, Jed Brown (Fairbanks, Alaska) and I flew from Talkeetna to the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington. On March 12th we climbed to the summit of Mt. Huntington via the West Face Couloir (Nettle-Quirk), and descended via the same route, in just under 15 hours roundtrip. We believe this might have been the first ascent of Huntington during the winter season. Although many teams descend from the top of the ice ramp, we found it to only be half-way to the summit, in terms of time and effort. Conditions and weather were excellent, although the temperatures were quite cold; we both frostnipped a few digits. After a few days contemplating other objectives, we gave in to the cold nights and flew out of the range on March 16th.

 

A few lessons learned:

-bring two pee bottles instead of one

-bring mittens that you can actually do technical climbing in

-bring a face mask that covers your nose

-bring a sleeping bag rated to -30F instead of -10F

-bring a larger than 2-person tent to basecamp

-bring a thermarest to basecamp

-muffins are very difficult to bite at -20F

-bring basecamp down booties

-don't go to Alaska before April! :)

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COLIN! YES! You did get the first winter ascent. Nicely done man! That has been attempted by so many people in the winter, way to keep racking up these coveted summits!

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High Five!

Borat_happy_time.jpg

 

That sucks about some of the cold-weather problems, but on the bright side, maybe it's better to get those things figured out now and be more ready for similar conditions in Pakistan this summer.

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Sweet!

 

I recall when you were in Pakistan a few years ago, you had gotten frostnip earlier in the season on Andromeda Strain. Did the frostnip bother you on Nanga Parbat? Do you think the frostnip will affect your summer plans?

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Colin, you da man.

 

Looking forward to pics. Winter in the AK range has gotta make for some sweeeet pics.

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Damn - NICE pics dude. Slick move making your partner tote the camera so you get all the hero shots!

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Hell yeah!!!! For those of you not up here... last week was insanely cold all over the state! At 1500' on the Kenai it dipped to -25; I cannot imagine what the AK Range was like!

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Great pics! Thanks for the stoke and motivation to finish the last month of training hard before my trip North.

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it looks like you're sporting the new Vipers...how do we get our hands on those, eh?

 

More importantly, where do we get our hands on the Yard O'Beef? Is that a sponsorship? Impressive stuff . . . and so is the climb, of course :fahq:

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