johnkelley

Hahaha you want someone to give you $5,000, a down j jumpsuit, a high end sleeping pad, etc.... For the West Butt? Hahaha really? Are you serious? Hahaha

Looking for a partner to do some climbing the fall/winter. I'd like to try some steeper faces on a few trekking peaks. I can leave in late November/early December and I won't have to be back until the summer.

Aklove - thanks for sensible reply Kelsey Gay - don't send me PMs. Post it on here so everyone can read it. Want to buy your bolt hangers back? I'm done talking about. Time for action

Sounds like I got the right route

It's the big dihedrial/chimney ish thing that starts off of the ledge to the right of the big snow couloir. It starts lookers left of the top of 4th pitch of Mixed Inhibitions. I think Tobins route, the chockstone block thing, also tops out here. To get thre you go up the snow couloir, the big one, for a few hundred feet and take a right. I know which one it is. I have a photo somewhere

While you're there check out the brand new bolts on Sunshine Ridge too. I third classed it the other and saw four new ones. They still had rock dust around the holes. Mostly near the top and one at an anchor about half way up. I know a few are replacments but I don't remember the others being there. Do you know where the origional bolts were placed? I can't remember. Maybe all of them are replacments but I don't think so.

32 and Beautiful is way easier. Sonkiss even third classed it. Sometime in 01 or 02. Not even comparable. My flailing attempts? I've only done it once, in 04 I think. Onsighted every pitch. Maybe you're thinking about someone else or a different line? Ptarmigan is cool though. Better gear for the most part, easy approach. It's got a few climbes that are a few grades harder then 32 and Beautiful too. No BS about the Fundamentalist Cut. He put three bolts on the 5.10 left of Degrees of Fruit. Origionally there was only one. Check out the ASCA's webpage and go take a look.

The comments on Nantina no longer make any sense. They were in reference to a photo that Finley has removed. Yeah, I do think it is the most difficult line in the park. Go repeat it and find out for yourself. What do you think the hardest one is? No, there isn't any fixed gear on any of the lines I've done. No slings, no pins, no fixed gear at all. Kelsey back to retro bolting too. Go check out the Fundamentalist Cut. Mile marker 112. He even takes credit for it on the ASCA website. I'm serious, go see for yourself.

No, the CSP doesn't know exactly where the boundry is. Call and find out for yourself if you thinks thats BS. One thing Finley did get right is the phone number.

Here's another example of the misinformation being spread by Finley's flier... He claims that ALL of the climbs on Turnagain Arm are on CSP property. The reality of it is that very few, if any, are on CSP land. Most, if not all, are located on DOT right of way not on CSP property

Why are these peaks listed as if they would be affected by this ban? THey would not be. It's poor style to use misinformation to influence peoples opinions. Claiming that Yukla or Pioneer would be affected is a flat out lie. Kelsey... name calling? Sorry I meant to say fucking retro bolter not rap bolter but both work really. The photo credit is the important thing, right?

Pioneer Peak doesn't require a rappel. What's it doing on your flier? Again, get your facts straight. A big huge Kelsey Gay photo credit is poor style. Really, the fucking rap bolter gets a photo credit? A very poor choice.

I can see why you would want to use Yukla as an example but the reality of it is that it would be totally uneffected by an anchor ban. There are no fixed anchors on it. Why is it on your flier? Get your facts straight.

There's no fixed gear on Nantina either, just the hardest line in the park. There is no fixed gear on any of the lines I've done here. As usuall you ignore the facts. Take your our advice. As for me... Two new lines in the last two weeks, a grade IV and a grade V. I wish I could do more but that all I have in me. You call it ego but it's a fact. In the last two weeks I've put up more pitches, bolt free, then you have done in your entire lifetime. Another fact. How would this effect Yukla? THere are no fixed anchors on Yukla.

Finley - How would this ban have any effect on Yukla? Out of all the new lines I've done there (seven lines) NONE HAVE ANY FIXED GEAR! I do the my best to leave no trace. You should take that off of your flier.

Kelsey - Sunshine ridge STILL has around 20 retro bolts on it. Five pitches of retro bolts were added. Many have been chopped but there is still about 20 left

Let's see... There was no problem then you (Kelsey) come along and drill a bunch of bolts and now there is a proposed anchor ban. Hum...?

Yeah Bryan he's doing good. Here's a few more shots of him from this weekend.

Trip: Yukla - Most People are DJs Date: 10/10/2011 Trip Report: Most People are DJs goes at IV M4 AI4. It's located on the ramp just left of The History of Things to Come. Fourteen hours round trip from the boulder bivy. Here's a few shots of Thrasher. Approach Notes: Icicle Creek

Finley you need to get your head out of your ass. Sunshine Ridge got over 20 retro bolts placed on it. Crack in Woods got around 10 or so. Pivot point recieved around 20 retro bolts. For you to imply that I am the cause for this ban is complete horse shit. The idea that I like climbing on old bolts is retarded. As for Kelsey. He gave us a very poorly written guide book, retro bolts on Crack in The Woods, on and on.

The crux pitch was about 170 feet and had a single lost arrow for pro about 120 feet above the belay. The pro was pretty spaced out on all of the pitches but the belays are solid so you won't hit the ground. The pitches were pretty sustained too. Lots of grade 5 climbing with big runouts. Seems like that's how it goes on Yukla. Out of the five new lines I've done there four were very runout. I didn't have a rope on the other one so I wasn't looking for gear. The rock on Yukla is harder to protect than on any other peak I've been on in the CSP.

Here's some Steve Stein took of the North Couloir in October of 2009. I don't have any from this trip. Varney had the only camera and he left for the valley today. I'll put some up later when I get them. Who broke your leg?

It's a snow climb in the spring but it's awsome alpine ice in September and October. Before it gets covered up.

Here's a photo of it taken from the North Couloir.

Trip: Yukla - No Call No show Date: 10/8/2011 Trip Report: Varney and I headed up to check out the conditions two weekends ago. The North Couloir was in execellent shape. I've done that line a few times now and was always hoping to catch the coulior/smear that branches off at 2/3 hight in climable condition. This time we lucked out. No Call No Show goes at V M5/6 X AI5 X. Lots of long runouts. We climbed it in twelve pitches and about 600 ft of simul climbing. The line tops out just west of the summit. I mean just west, about 15 feet away. It took us about 50 hrs round trip from our high camp at the boulder bivy. The best bivy in CSP? We bivied once at the top of pitch four, topped out at dusk the next day and spent all night decending and then walking back to the boulder. Gear Notes: Not much Approach Notes: Climb to about 2/3 height on the North Couloir. A route that should see more traffic. It's a snow slog in the winter and spring but in the fall before the snow it's all ice. The "Black Ice" of the Chugach. Just after the crux take the ice smear to the right.