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johnkelley

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About johnkelley

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  • Location
    Anchorage Alaska
  1. Denali climb- June 2014 -

    Hahaha you want someone to give you $5,000, a down j jumpsuit, a high end sleeping pad, etc.... For the West Butt? Hahaha really? Are you serious? Hahaha
  2. Nepal

    Looking for a partner to do some climbing the fall/winter. I'd like to try some steeper faces on a few trekking peaks. I can leave in late November/early December and I won't have to be back until the summer.
  3. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Aklove - thanks for sensible reply Kelsey Gay - don't send me PMs. Post it on here so everyone can read it. Want to buy your bolt hangers back? I'm done talking about. Time for action
  4. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Sounds like I got the right route
  5. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    It's the big dihedrial/chimney ish thing that starts off of the ledge to the right of the big snow couloir. It starts lookers left of the top of 4th pitch of Mixed Inhibitions. I think Tobins route, the chockstone block thing, also tops out here. To get thre you go up the snow couloir, the big one, for a few hundred feet and take a right. I know which one it is. I have a photo somewhere
  6. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    While you're there check out the brand new bolts on Sunshine Ridge too. I third classed it the other and saw four new ones. They still had rock dust around the holes. Mostly near the top and one at an anchor about half way up. I know a few are replacments but I don't remember the others being there. Do you know where the origional bolts were placed? I can't remember. Maybe all of them are replacments but I don't think so.
  7. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    32 and Beautiful is way easier. Sonkiss even third classed it. Sometime in 01 or 02. Not even comparable. My flailing attempts? I've only done it once, in 04 I think. Onsighted every pitch. Maybe you're thinking about someone else or a different line? Ptarmigan is cool though. Better gear for the most part, easy approach. It's got a few climbes that are a few grades harder then 32 and Beautiful too. No BS about the Fundamentalist Cut. He put three bolts on the 5.10 left of Degrees of Fruit. Origionally there was only one. Check out the ASCA's webpage and go take a look.
  8. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    The comments on Nantina no longer make any sense. They were in reference to a photo that Finley has removed. Yeah, I do think it is the most difficult line in the park. Go repeat it and find out for yourself. What do you think the hardest one is? No, there isn't any fixed gear on any of the lines I've done. No slings, no pins, no fixed gear at all. Kelsey back to retro bolting too. Go check out the Fundamentalist Cut. Mile marker 112. He even takes credit for it on the ASCA website. I'm serious, go see for yourself.
  9. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    No, the CSP doesn't know exactly where the boundry is. Call and find out for yourself if you thinks thats BS. One thing Finley did get right is the phone number.
  10. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Here's another example of the misinformation being spread by Finley's flier... He claims that ALL of the climbs on Turnagain Arm are on CSP property. The reality of it is that very few, if any, are on CSP land. Most, if not all, are located on DOT right of way not on CSP property
  11. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Why are these peaks listed as if they would be affected by this ban? THey would not be. It's poor style to use misinformation to influence peoples opinions. Claiming that Yukla or Pioneer would be affected is a flat out lie. Kelsey... name calling? Sorry I meant to say fucking retro bolter not rap bolter but both work really. The photo credit is the important thing, right?
  12. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Pioneer Peak doesn't require a rappel. What's it doing on your flier? Again, get your facts straight. A big huge Kelsey Gay photo credit is poor style. Really, the fucking rap bolter gets a photo credit? A very poor choice.
  13. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    I can see why you would want to use Yukla as an example but the reality of it is that it would be totally uneffected by an anchor ban. There are no fixed anchors on it. Why is it on your flier? Get your facts straight.
  14. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    There's no fixed gear on Nantina either, just the hardest line in the park. There is no fixed gear on any of the lines I've done here. As usuall you ignore the facts. Take your our advice. As for me... Two new lines in the last two weeks, a grade IV and a grade V. I wish I could do more but that all I have in me. You call it ego but it's a fact. In the last two weeks I've put up more pitches, bolt free, then you have done in your entire lifetime. Another fact. How would this effect Yukla? THere are no fixed anchors on Yukla.
  15. Chugach State Park Permanent Anchor Ban

    Finley - How would this ban have any effect on Yukla? Out of all the new lines I've done there (seven lines) NONE HAVE ANY FIXED GEAR! I do the my best to leave no trace. You should take that off of your flier.
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