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ryland_moore

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Everything posted by ryland_moore

  1. New Speed Record on Mt. Hood. Third Party Timers?

    Hi Hans, It happened and there were third party timers. He was with a crew of folks. Aaron Sales is a good dude. Not a climber but awesome kiteboarder and snow kiter. Real deal, not some H-person who shall still remain unnamed after all of these years, wannabe
  2. Gorge Ice is in!

    Ainsworth looks awesome, Cape Horn has some flow but looks in on several lines, Mist is misty, Crown Jewel is not in too much flow, and even falls to the right of Multnomah is in. 84 is clear to Ainsworth until Friday afternoon. This weekend will be bad on 84, especially Sunday. Be safe, assess each climb before jumping on and have fun!
  3. first ascent FA Wind Walker Columbia Gorge

    Great work! With the amount of time below freezing and moisture in the ground, it has been the perfect opportunity for FAs coming in.
  4. Gorge Ice is in!

    Couple of more days left! Was 22 when going through this morning at Ainsworth. AInsworth area best I have ever seen since I moved here in 1999. Ainsworth Left and Right are incredible with a few more days of below freezing temps and new flow that I have not had a chance to explore a few drainages west is in as well. Also a large flow further east of Ainsworth is in from what I can see behind truck stop but not sure if there is private property to cross to access. Not sure what this one is called or if it has ben climbed. Was 25 degrees coming back from Crown Point and everything is in. Crown still has higher flow than usual, but could be climbed on the left side. The gorge (84/14) road conditions are amazing compared to roads in Portland.
  5. Gorge Ice is in!

    Looked even better today and did not see a single person out there when driving through at 9am. Get it while the gettin's good! Saturday late afternoon is supposed to turn to a Sh*t show with ice/freezing rain into Sunday.
  6. Saw climbers on Crown Jewel yesterday and today on my daily commute from Hood River. Ice is much better further east. Temps were in the mid to high 20s this morning through Exit 35. High 20s at Multnomah Falls and then right at freezing or a little above at Crown Point. Ice should be good tomorrow as well.
  7. Gorge Ice

    Drive in from Hood River to PDX every day and have watched the ice form all this week. Crown Jewel filled in quite a bit from yeaterday and almost completely iced over (few holes). Conditions get better further east. Mist falls looks thin but I think the weekend should be good. Stay safe. Saw 3 rollovers on the way in this morning! Sorry if there is another post on this. Just trying to pass the time while stuck in traffic.
  8. Gorge Ice

    Just drove HR to PDX to hopefully catch my flight tomorrow. Saw climbers topping out on Crown at about 4:30pm. It was 32 degrees when I went through. Watch overnight temps tonight and take it slow. Good job on Ainsworth Powderhound.
  9. Gorge Ice

    Come on you Sallys! No one was out this morning when I drove through at 9:30am and the road was clear. I did 60 mph in a Honda Accord from HR to PDX this morning. Looked like I saw some specs across the way on the sunny side in WA. At least WA climbers are hard! Ice has been forming up well. Everything looked in, but a little thin. Even crown jewel was in fully but thin on the lower 1/2. Climb to the right of mist looked in if you start the upper falls on left side and work up and right. Ainsworth looked good, but was being blasted by spindrift from a truck as I went by. Get out there! Should be even better tomorrow and it has not been above freezing since Tuesday. Was 19 when I went by this morning and zero wind. I think the wind aspect will change when this new system comes in....
  10. [TR] Strobach Ice - 1/27/2007

    Trip: Strobach Ice - Date: 1/27/2007 Trip Report: Me and four buddies headed to Strobach on Saturday looking for ice after reading various reports over the last two weeks. We scored a sled for the long 6 miles in and left Portland at 4:30am. It took us longer than we estimated to get to the FS road and arrived around 8:30am. We geared up and tried to figure out how to fit 5 guys plus gear on one sled. We were able to make this work by having the driver wear his pack and two others on each side standing on the rails while pulling two skiers. Amazingly this worked very well. At the junction of FS Rd. 570 and 1201 (and after missing 570 completely and realizing our mistake at the junction of 1202 and Tieton Rd) we stopped to consult the map to make sure we were turning onto Rd. 1201. When we went to get back on the sled, it would not go. We thought the breaks were on, messed with the drive train, and even bled the break fluid foregoing breaks in hopes to get the sled to go but to no avail. Finally we got the bright idea of checking the tread to see if it had frozen, and of course that was the problem. At least we knew it was cold enough for the ice to still be around! We headed on up and after taking FS Rd. 1201 to the end and realizing our mistake again, we doubled back to Rd. 609 turn-off and headed up to the end, but not before blowing the belt on the sled. Luckily we had a spare (although it was an old one). We slogged in for about 45 mins. and finally reached the ice. Being that it was now 1:00pm, we decided not to head too far into the motherload and jump on the first ice that looked appealing. We decided on a nice line going at WI 4+ and a full 60 meters, that looked to have a serious second pitch of around WI 5+/6 and slightly overhanging pillar at the bottom. I think this may be "Second on the Left". Even though the guidebook says "unclimbed" I am sure someone has done this first pitch, because it was so classic. It starts with fairly steep ice and only eases back one time until finishing with a steep and completely vertical section for about 40 feet to the top of the ledge. Tim Garland led it in style and Jesse Woods and I followed. Meanwhile, Matt Wills and Scott Kastengren were climbing First on the Left. They did the first pitch and did not have time to venture up one of the various options for the second pitch. We rapped off just as night was falling and we did not make it to the woods after the boulder field before we were turning on the headlamps. We made it back out to the sled under clear skies and a nice bright moon. Tim and I skied down while the other three rode the sled. We made it back at the same time as the sled (due to the sled not having breaks and missing the turnoffs and having to turn around each time) as you can ski the entire way down with only minimal polling. I never had to take the skis off once. We made it back to the car around 7pm and to some really cold beers. We loaded everything up and headed to Naches for some Nachos (Mexican food and beer) and rolled back into PDX around midnight. Thoughts on the Trip: This place is amazing with a ton of lines in right now. These routes collectively blow Leavenworth out of the water and are on par with Banks Lake. There are a lot of climbs close together and there is a ton of area yet unexplored. We will be going back, with a sled, and will stay for a weekend at a minimum. Even if we had been dialed in and got to the area sooner, we likely would have stayed until dark, so the trip time would not have been shorter, we just would have climbed more ice. We ran into a group of two climbers in the parking lot who were going in on foot. They had turned around after the first mile because they said it was just too far to get in there and climb. I would have to agree. Unless going in for a weekend, or if you really have the trip dialed and are fast, it would be more enjoyable over a weekend. Or simply take the second appraoch mentioned in the guidebook if going in on foot. Notes on Ice and conditions: The ice we saw and climbed was amazing. Sun did get on 2nd on Left and Third on Left and other climbs closer to the woods like Primus Sucks. There appeared to be a new line not mentioned in the guidebook between Primus Sucks and 3rd on the Left. There is also a shorter line that came in between 2nd on Left and 1st on Left, but very short. It's second pitch would be a wild mixed line. The first pitch of Second on Left was awesome. The ice was very plastic and was a little deteriorated at the very top, where it gets the most sun. The deathcicles looming above on the second pitch did not let loose (except a little when the sun first hit it) and were dripping with water until the sun set, then abruptly stopped and were likely re-freezing. Matt and Scott reported ice on First on Left a little different. They reported very hard ice that dinner plated even on face ice and took 3-5 strikes just to sink the tool and to clear the few top layers of ice. Matt, who leads WI 5 comfortably, stated the ice was in layers and very brittle as it never sees sun. When Scott got on the TR, the whole line shuddered and settled at which point they both quickly got off and cleaned the route and headed back. All in all, this was as much an exploratory trip as anything else. We learned a lot about the area and will be back again. It is in an awesome setting, you feel totally removed from anything and the views over to Rainier are incredible. We had stellar High Pressure weather and it remained cold the entire day. This ice should be around for a while, especially those on the right side of Separation gulley, which did not see sun the entire day. I would say that a day trip from Portland (20 hrs. for us) can be a little much and a full weekend would be perfect for this place. Plus, there is so much ice we would not have left if we had the gear. One note to Alex and Jason. The route description of Second on Left states, "Climb a short, low angle flow to a steep pillar above." I would say that this first full rope-length flow is neither short nor low-angle. It is solid WI 4 and fully vertical at the top as you can see from the pictures. Either that or we have no clue what we were climbing! I would say this is an accurate description for Third on the Left. Finally, go get out there! It does rival almost any other ice climbing area in the Pacific Northwest! Thanks to Sobo and Alex for quality beta.
  11. Gorge Ice

    Saw some guys in a silver Audi heading in to crown jewel on my way to work. Further east and the ice is as good as. I have seen it in a decade. There is a line east of aims worth due south of the truck weigh station mp 45 that is the first time I have seen it look climb able. Get it while Ito is still around!
  12. Gorge windshield observations

    Came through the gorge this morning as I so daily for my commute. Ice is forming well and dare I say that some lines MAY go at exit 35. Crown Jewel is close and best its been all season but not in yet. Lines east of Multnomah forming nicely. If up for some adventure, tomorrow looks like best opportunity as warm weather moving in tomorrow afternoon. Cascade Locks has been colder than PDF and hood river by a few degrees. Low tonight is supposed to be around 20 with freezing rain moving in around 6am. Be careful out there!
  13. Gorge windshield observations

    Great work! Glad someone got out! The approach in the dark must have been the crux! You may be the only one to get on Ainsworth all year! Looked pretty wet today. Such is ice in the gorge!
  14. Gorge windshield observations

    Still looked good as of 7am. No one out that I saw. Ainsworth was the best of the bunch. Also some smaller rarely forming flows just west of mist may go. Crown may go but thin and open flows in middle. Would be spicy and likely not much pro above first anchor on left.
  15. ICE??

    I moved out to HR but work in Portland so drive by all of the regulars every day. As of Friday afternoon (even with the big freezing rain episode), some stuff may go but very thin. The main issue is that it is way above freezing during the day and there is a lot of flow. Some of the seeps further east look good and stuff around Exit 35. But I wouldn't even waste my time with mist or Crown Jewel. My only caveat is that I have not been by since 5pm on Friday, so if it stayed really cold all day today, some ice may go tomorrow early. I wouldn't get on it, but maybe I have become an ice snob in my old age, especially when you have some stellar ice not too far north in WA.
  16. Climber Lost in Whiteout on Mt Hood

    Ummm, He has GPS and posted coordinates on Facebook asking friends where he was!
  17. Brings back memories! The Great Arch was my first experience on rock ever (outside of a gym) back in 1992. I've never been the same since.
  18. New route on Mt. Rainier!

    Sunset Amphitheatre area. Sounds like a classic line if you can get in there! http://mountrainierconditions.blogspot.com/2011/06/sunset-amphitheatre.html
  19. Disaster on Denali

    Maybe for this year, but I always prefer May as the weather seems more stable on average. A little colder yes, but I went up and down in mid-May in 13 days without a single weather day. Just is something that cannot be controlled.
  20. Mt Rainier - Skier in crevasse, rescue underway

    Why would they not have had any rescue gear with them? Relying on an AAI group to perform the rescue? Hopefully there is more to the story so I will hold off any critiquing until more of the story is known. Hopefully, the skier is ok.
  21. While this was discussed on this board in Feb 2008 when Ueli broke his own speed record (2hr47m), I have never seen this video. He is not human: http://www.flixxy.com/speed-soloing-eiger-record-ueli-steck.htm
  22. Palouse Falls

    Saw a recent picture out there and the entire walls surrounding the falls is coated in ice. Probably not classic water ice but more like spray ice like you see forming up out in the gorge and that intro area. Looks like it will be cold for quite a while out there!
  23. Nice work guys! Love Lee Vining. FYI, many of those climbs are a little sporty as at the top they have fixed chain anchors. For example, no need to set an anchor of the tree on Chouinard as there are bomber anchors at the top as long as you know where to look and which gully to go up!
  24. Awesome! I did a very similar trip after graduating from college in 1998. Headed to Quito and acclimated on GuaGua, then climbed Cayembe, Cotopaxi and Chimbo. Then headed down to Bolivia to climb Illimani, then to Peru to the Inca trail and then down to Argentina to climb Aconcagua. Finished off the trip doing the circuit in Los Glaciers, hanging with Steve Schneider after his first solo ascent of the central tower of Torres and hitchhiking down the Carreterra Astral getting fropped off to flyfish untouched Patagonian rivers. You will have very few chances in life to do a trip like that again once settled into a career, family anld responsibilities. Enjoy it while you can. I took money from savings to do the trip. When my Dad, who was a stock broker, questioned me on my return on my investment for the trip vs. keepingit invested. I simply replied that it was "priceless." I still feel that way today, 13 years later.
  25. Love those runouts! That was actually my first climbing on rock! Cool place and even better approach!
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