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wfinley

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Everything posted by wfinley

  1. Looking for a pair of Dynafit Cho Oyu skis in 182. I just need one... so if you just have one I'll buy it. But if you have a pair I’ll take the set. Thx!
  2. Sobo posted a message today that made me realize that I had once joined him for an afternoon of ice climbing when he was up north about 10 years ago. I've climbed with a lot of random people over the years; most of whom I've forgotten and probably wouldn't recognize - however for some reason certain encounters stand out. Climbing with sobo was memorable for 2 reason... We climbed well into the dark and upon topping out on the second climb (Ripple - a classic mellow ice route that forms fat and sticky every year from October - March) I turned around and saw the comet Hale-bop glowing on the horizon above the canyon wall. It was a beautiful sight -- the stars glowing bright and this huge burning comet right in front of me. I think of the comet everytime I climb Ripple (which is at least a few times / season)... and only many occasions I've sat at the belay anchors and described the sight to various climbing partners. The second reason it was memorable was because sobo had a space blanket taped inside his helmet and when I asked him why he told me a long story about a forced bivy on some Cascade wall. I went home and taped my own space blanket inside my helmet and lo and behold a few years later found myself stuck on a route well after dark. It was cold as shit and after we dug a little ledge in the snow I pulled off my helmet and with pride showed my partner the space blanket that was still taped inside. Apart from sobo I've experienced a couple other memorable climbs with random people - including a rather frightening experience where some random guy whom I had never met till that morning (I called a random number posted on a bulletin board) decided to solo an ice route. Half way up his pick broke and he hung on one tool freaking out and screaming obscenities for 15 minutes until he got up the nerve to downclimb to a ledge where he could replace his pick and finish his solo. All the while I was standing at the base mentally preparing myself to watch a guy fall 100' to his death. Random climbing partners are kind of like one night stands... if the climbing or company was good then you'll have a clear recollection. Likewise if the climbing or company really sucked you'll remember the story for years! Any good stories out there about random people you've met and climbed with???
  3. RIP Fred Beckey

    Rest in peace Mr. Beckey. May your stories be told on bivy ledges for hundreds of years. May your corniced ridges terrify climbers for generations to come.
  4. Nice writeup and rant. Climbers should surrender their right to complain about crowds when they choose to climb one of the 50-classics on a nice summer weekend. You're on one of the 50 classics - crowds and inconsiderate climbers are expected. Try climbing in France where passing climbers will use your fingers as handholds as they pass .... or in Nepal where they'll use your body as a rap anchor.
  5. Considering sending in my (La Sportiva Nepal) boots to Dave Page for a third resole. This time they'll need a full rand / sole rebuild. The boots are almost 15 years old and while they see a fair amount of use... they don't see that much given I have plastics for the winter and lighter boots for the summer. How many times do you guys resole your boots before deciding it's time to buy a new pair?
  6. Thanks. Didn't even think about ebay!
  7. Trip: Four Days in Boston Basin Date: 8/1/2017 Trip Report: Anchorage is having a normal summer (rainy cloudy crappy) so we bought tickets to Seattle. Flew out Thursday afternoon, were at the Marblemount Ranger Station at 10pm where we scored the #2 ticket (thanks to CC.com for the numbers tip!) and then crashed for a few hours of sleep. Back to the ranger station in the AM where we scored a permit for 4 nights at Boston Basin. Then up to Boston Basin where it was sunny and hot and the horseflies were hungry for human flesh. A nice night of sleep and then the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. There was only one other party on it that morning and they were well ahead of us so we had the route to ourselves for both the up and the down. The next day we climbed Sahale Peak and on our last day we tried Torment but we turned around right before the summit ridge because we were tired and didn't want to risk a bivy which would have meant we'd miss our flight. Nothing to say about these routes that hasn't already been said a million times so I'll just share some select photos. If you're interested in seeing all my photos I've uploaded them to my site . This was a great trip and I've fallen in love with the North Cascades. Scheming on ways to get down there every time it starts raining. Route notes: - if the rangers say the west couloir is out, listen to them. - you can get off forbidden with 1 rope if you keep going down the gully instead of jumping across to the far (climbers right) gully partially down the 3rd rap. Note that the last rap station is pretty much in the middle of the gully and you're really exposed to rockfall if anyone is above you. - the anchor on the top of Sahale is gone. We downclimbed but people descending the other side used my anchor to rap down to the anchors on the E side. - you can get off the S ridge of Torment with one rope as long as you do the traversing raps and hunt around for the intermediate anchors. - the marmots are vicious. - the NPS has approved the latest version of the Ursack . Depending on what ranger you get they will argue with you about using it - but it's been approved. * * * The camp views were pretty awesome. The rangers told us the couloir was out but I didn't believe them. There was a nice moat 1/3 of the way up which required some wet crampon rock moves and a creative picket aid move. Next time I'll listen the rangers. Top of the couloir. The weather here rocks! I took about a zillion photos on this route. These guys were on the summit after climbing the E Ridge and shouted "Take a photo". I did and I'm posting it here in case anyone knows them. My wife at the notch. There was much less cursing that I imagined there would be. LOST Sapphire on the west ridge. Reward! There was lots of cursing and weeping and wailing when my wife showed me her wedding ring. It was me doing the cursing and weeping. Damn Party of 5 coming down the gullies well after dark. The next morning I told them I took some photos of their epic and they shouted "IT WASN'T AN EPIC!!" Sahale Peak - super fun mellow climb. This is why you shouldn't start glacier climbs at 2pm. 19 people on Sahale.... and why you shouldn't start glacier climbs at 6am. Double exposure showing how much this route traverses. My wife doing the traversing downclimb / rap off Torment. Goodbye sunny granite. We'll be back!
  8. [TR] Four Days in Boston Basin 8/1/2017

    The NPS says models certified by IGBA are approved. The list of approved canisters is here: http://igbconline.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/170811_Certified_Products_List.pdf Specifically... Ursak Model S29 AllWhite & Model AllMitey
  9. It shows. The images are excellent. I admire people who suck it up and carry their full dSLR setup on an extended climbing trips.
  10. Thanks. Uppers are mostly sound. Waterproof is questionable... but I think it might be more a matter of leaking around the rand than the actual leather.
  11. The uppers are in decent shape. I use them enough to justify a resole... I'm more concerned about how many times I can resole before the boot self destructs.
  12. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    ursaeagle... I believe these pix are of you. One looking down at you from the summit and one from the start of your "not an epic" descent.
  13. Hi all. Our local weather sucks so we booked a flight to Seattle where apparently the weather is amazing. Anyways.... (like everyone else) I'd love to climb Forbidden but am completely lost as how the permit process works and the chances of obtaining a permit. Likewise I've only climbed in the Cascades once so I'm totally open to other suggestions. What is the likelihood of obtaining a permit for Boston Basin if we were to arrive at the Ranger station first thing Friday morning? If everything is completely booked what are some good moderate day routes in the same vicinity that don't require a permit?
  14. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    Nice tip. Thx!!
  15. question Clogged MSR Whisperlite International

    I've sent at least 3 stoves back to MSR over the years for a full rebuild. $35 will pretty much get you a new stove after they're done with the cleanup. Well worth it.
  16. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    Thanks for the info. In regards to forbidden in a day... I'm sure it's doable, but when I'm unfamiliar with area and don't even know what the trailhead looks like, long days have a tendency to turn into late night snuggles on a rock ledge.
  17. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    So tempting. We have so little shrubbery and choss up here it would be a novelty.
  18. Here's getting onto the glacier in July 2001. I recall getting onto the glacier to be a pain but the bergschrund was a nonissue. I always just assumed the guidebook author deliberately left off key portions like "how to access the climb" and "how to get off the climb" so you could have an adventure. We found the route to be pretty straightforward compared to the access and descending to the AA col.
  19. The best ultralight tent for climbing

    $850 for a tarp tent? You can find a megamid for around $200 - is it really worth that much? PS - nice web site!
  20. Strava vs Gaia vs ? + device

    Gaia on the iphone for wilderness navigation. I too have stopped carrying a GPS in favor of the phone. I've found I can do up to 5 days with an old phone battery and no recharges if I'm using GPS sparingly and diligent about turning the phone off when not in use. If I think I might navigate with it for extended periods I carry a little charger that is good for 1 1/2 charges. For tracking I have a Garmin Edge 25 that lasts up to 10hrs. Super tiny and synchs to the phone / strava without hassle. I like that it's so tiny and that I don't have to carry my phone with me - but if I lived somewhere where there were more roads for riding I'd probably get a larger one that has a built in navigation screen.
  21. Local boy done good

    Article here: http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/drew-ruana-16-sends-le-cadre-nouvelle-5-14d-in-ceuse His stick the crux yell sounds just like his dad 20+ years ago.
  22. Trip: Mt. Shuksan & Mt. Baker - Sulphide Glacier & North Ridge Date: 6/5/2016 Trip Report: Wanted to post a thanks to all who have posted TRs for Shuksan and Baker in the past. We flew down on a whim and managed to climb two great routes with little planning other than googling trip reports while driving on I-5. Choice pix below - all my pix are here: http://www.akmountain.com/index.cfm/2016/06/03/Mt-Shuksan-Sulphide-Glacier-and-Mt-Baker-North-Ridge There are toads in Washington. (woot!) Kind of scary to see something like this when you're coming into an area with zero knowledge of snowpack! Like good alpinist we ignored it & it never bothered us. The trade routes in Washington come with preset rap anchors! (woot!) Seattle traffic can be really bad at times. Only had to stay up till 10pm for a sunset pic. (woot!) It gets dark in Washington! Luckily I remembered my headlamp. At the ice cap I took the ramp climbers left that turned out to be a touchy snow bridge over a mean looking crevasse. I didn't fall in but I kicked a bunch of holes in it so my partner could fully appreciate the complexity of ice climbing on a glacier. Ice climbing in the sun is pretty awesome. Almost fun. (woot!) To make things really fun we climbed under those seracs at noon. They were dripping and groaning & I remembered my oath from 2015 that I would never again climb a route threatened by serac fall. We were going to go rock climbing in Leavenworth but we ended up drinking beers & eating sausages at some German restaurant and then killing a six pack at the campground. The next day we were so hungover we bailed off a 5.7 slab, drove to the airport and flew home.
  23. We rapped the whole thing. The snow was soft and the warming sun was sending a bunch of chunks down so we were glad to have the rope. We had a single 70 and a couple of the stations required a short unroped downclimb. With snow it was pretty straight forward (nothing for the rope to get caught on etc.) but I can see how it would be a pain if the gully was dry. Maybe just belay your buddy down?
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