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Skiing down from Illumination Saddle yesterday (Sunday, 4/29) my tele binding popped off and my ski sailed off into never never land. I know...tele clips. I'm an idiot. I tracked it downhill on foot for about 1000 feet toward Paradise Park but in the end I gave up defeated. I retreated up over Zig Zag canyon and back to timberline, wearing the shame of my one remaining ski on my pack the whole way. Anyway, if anyone is harvesting corn in Paradise Park this spring, keep an eye out for a lonely Orange BD Verdict. Beer, cash, and karma to the hero who rescues my lost friend. -Scott 503 708-9072 Approximate location:

You crack me up, Bill! C'mon - Rabbit Ears isn't that bad. A little adventure is good for the soul. I think you're right, scraping moss would be more fun if it was in pursuit of FA's. Sounds awesome! Wayne, not sure what this route was like back in the day, but there's a fair bit of moss and some ferns now. Probably not as bad as I made it out to be. I'm kind of a whiner

Trip: Pillars of Hercules - Vertical Vegetables? Date: 6/19/2011 Trip Report: I've driven by this random column of basalt in the Gorge many times and often wondered what's up there. RPC's information page on SP.org here whet my appetite years ago but only finally got around to it this weekend for a quick father's day adventure. My unwitting accomplice, Steve, had no idea what I was getting him into other than I promised an 'adventure' but he was a good sport. After parking at the Bridal Veil pullout, we bushwhacked through neck-high stinging nettles down to an old railroad grade and approached the pillar from the east. As promised, the route was fully vegetated, but looked easy enough: After 80' of vertical vegetable-wallowing the route crests a ridge and then traverses 20' to a belay tree on the freeway side. A fixed tri-cam and old knifeblade protect a couple easy moves and then a mossy offwith leads up to the spacious top. While lounging on top, we enjoyed victory honks from passing traffic and excited waves from suprised tourons at the Bridal Veil overlook. Steel cables slung around a 'mystery heap' of dirt and weeds and a duct tape "locking" carabiner made a comforting rap anchor for the descent back through the tree canopy which mercilessly tangled our ropes. Gotta love Gorge adventure climbs! Gear Notes: Pro in the 2-4 inch range. 2 ropes for the rap. Round up for the weeds. Approach Notes: Machete. Seriously. And long pants/sleeves for the stinging nettles.

That's not true. PMR's position has always been and still is in opposition to legislation requiring specific equipment. We also have always supported the (intellegent) use of MLU and PLB technology. If anything has changed, it's that we are taking a more active role in trying to get PLB technology available in the Portland market. And that is where Kevin Stoltz and PLBRentals.com can help. Also - here's a link to PMR's recommendation on how locating devices fit into the overall 'Safety Plan' for climbing Mt. Hood. http://www.pmru.org/safetyed/Climb_Safe.html

Click here to vote NO: http://www.katu.com/ Well, vote whatever you like. But know that Portland Mountain Rescue opposes such measures: http://www.pmru.org/pressroom/headlines/20091213PMRStatementRegardingMissions.html Also see PMR statement against 2007 proposed legislation I hate to even bring this up during this tragic time, but this controversial issue appears to be back in the media forefront once again.

This topic comes up every time there's a high-profile rescue so here's a pre-emptive strike at the 'charge for rescue' crowd: Mountain Rescue Association opposes charging for search and rescue

Here's a link to the story: http://www.oregonlive.com/news/index.ssf/2009/12/three_climbers_reported_missin.html PMR has several teams up there right now. Fingers crossed for a good outcome and positive vibes to worried friends & family.

Reports from the field on Sunday indicated he suffered an open femur fracture after being stuck in the leg by a rock. Ouchy! Glad he made it off OK!

Hey guys - a bit of friendly advice here. There's no reason to go all the way up/over the bergie unless you are heading to the pearly gates. For the standard Old Chute option it's safer to stay low across Hot Rocks and then climb straight up the chute. Climbing over the bergie and then doing a high-traverse over to the Old Chute needlessly exposes you to 1) ice fall from the cliffs immediately above you 2) a long tumble if you slip while traversing 3) a crevasse fall into the bergie Traversing low across Hot Rocks before heading up the Old Chute significantly lessens these risks. That' why most (if not all) guided groups are doing the low traverse this year. Stay safe and see you up there!

Sounds like there was another accident up there today as well. Details still sketchy, but it sounds pretty bad. Here's hoping for another good outcome...

Bummer about the wasted trip, Brewer. I guess the last-minute change in the forecast turned out pretty accurate, which is unfortunate. Sounds like you made the right call with a parking-lot high point. I ended up going to MRNP and climbed Unicorn Peak with some buds Saturday afternoon. Weather was mild and drizzly most of Saturday with snow and moderate wind for the summit pitch. Felt alpine-y. Saturday night weather was crap and we spent the evening drinking mountain margaritas in a snow/tarp shelter while the rain/sleet fell. Sunday morning was beautiful for the hike out.

Looks like the forecast took a turn for the worse today. Calling for the front to split up and the first chunk to come through Saturday morning about summit time. Think I'm going to bail and opt for something a little less exposed to the elements. Maybe go play in the Tatoosh or something. Brewer - if you go, stay safe!

Ivan is right on. The secret to getting off Hood in a white out is to use the different 'catch' features like the Palmer cat track, chair lift, or even White River Canyon or tree line. Use your compass and altimeter to estimate where you are and which way to go, and plan a route that bumps you into a catch feature and then follow that home. Ivan's idea to intentionally descend to the west of the Palmer chair and then traverse left until you find the chairlift would certainly work. Just use your altimeter to make sure you descend far enough that your travese won't go over the top of chairlift and take you into White River canyon. This happened to group of folks a couple years back and turned into a big SAR event. Also, make sure you understand the effects that weather have on air pressure and by extention your altimeter. Maybe I'll see you up there!

I've been closely eyeing the forecast this weekend as well in the hopes of dragging up some newbie friends who will be in town. My take is that an early Saturday morning climb would be reasonable but you damn well better know what you're doing and how to get back down in a whiteout in case that storm comes in earlier than expected.

[font:Arial]NWAC Avi Forecast from Friday:[/font] [font:Courier New]* MT HOOD AREA- …AVALANCHE WARNING FRIDAY… Friday: High avalanche danger above 5000 feet and considerable below. Friday night: Avalanche danger temporarily decreasing. Saturday: High avalanche danger above 6000 feet and considerable below. Saturday night: Avalanche danger temporarily decreasing.[/font] [font:Arial]Skiing a south-facing slope on a warm day with a 'HIGH' avi danger forecast Those guys are lucky to have gotten off with just a 'warning'[/font]

Good work on the self-rescue! As I'm sure you know now, SAR takes several hours to drive up from town, get organized, and climb up to the scene. Often, self-reliance, self-rescue, and help from other climbers is the best way to resolve the situation. Bummer your bro had an accident, but kudos to you and the folks who helped you for handling it responsibly without the need for a major SAR event.

Catch some flicks and show some love to the guys who just might save your butt someday. Portland State University Outdoor Program is once again hosting the Telluride MountainFilm Festival and graciously donating the proceeds from ticket sales to Portland Mountain Rescue. As you may know, PMR is an entirely volunteer organization that receives no government funding so the few bucks you drop on a ticket pays for equipment and training that just may help you some day. Who's Involved Telluride MountainFilm is dedicated to educating and inspiring audiences about issues that matter, cultures worth exploring, environments worth preserving and conversations worth sustaining. PSU Outdoor Program Since 1966, the Outdoor Program has been helping PSU students find great ways to get outdoors. Portland Mountain Rescue is dedicated to saving lives through rescue and mountain safety education.

Mist was sweet today. Fat, plastic ice and no wind to drive the waterfall down on top of us. Great climbing with you Plaidman! And glad your v threads held us both!

Ha ha! Nice, Gary! I was just about to post that exact same picture but I guess you beat me to it.

GREAT NEWS! News Story According to the article, he was found alive at 6,000 feet and appears to have suffered a broken ankle. Hopefully he is otherwise OK. I bet he has one heck of a story to tell. and all that....

RE: 'West Unicorn' - I've heard this referred to as Mt. Gesswick. Not sure if that's accurate or not and I've personally never considered it part of the traverse. I have always been interested in climbing it though. How have others done it? Just ascend the exposed heather/snow slopes from Unicorn saddle?

The Traverse should be in fine shape this time of year, though you'll need to suffer through some boulder hopping in the Unicorn basin. There should be meltwater from the Unicorn Glacier available. There's also a small lake/mudhole between Foss & Castle and then Cliff Lake between Lane & Wahpenayo. Not a whole lot of flat terrain for camping but the flats between Foss & Castle (by the mud-hole) would be OK. I'm doing the traverse (including Stevens) this weekend and can post beta when I return. The only question remaining in my mind is whether or not there will be enough snow between Unicorn and Stevens to warrant crampons? I hate the idea of hauling those things around for 2 days only to use them for 15 minutes.

Nice work! Last time I tried the complete traverse I had to bail on Stevens too. But, I'm heading up there next weekend for another go at it and hope to redeem myself. Did you encounter much snow? Did you bring (or wish you brought) crampons or ice axe? Last question: is there still water between Foss & Castle?

Worm Flows/Swift Creek route is in fine shape right now with snowpack more reminiscent of January than June. Lots of activity yesterday with climbers, skiers, and snowmobiles on the summit and helicopters and airplanes buzzing around all day. THere were 2 avalanches very near the climbers route yesterday. Both triggered naturally around 2:30 PM and involved the ~1 foot slab of snow that accumulated on the SE side of Monitor ridge earlier in the week. A small slide actually crossed part of the climbing route (some folks were splitting off to the right and heading to a low spot on the crater rim rather than gaining Monitor ridge and following that up). A large slide came down just to climbers left of the route on a face that was skied about an hour earlier: Fortunately, no one was caught in either slide but still a sobering reminder that Mount Saint Helens is not immune to avalanches - even in June!

No kidding. A pretty big slide triggered naturally at about 2:30PM today on St. Helens. SE aspect at around 7500 feet. Hopefully today's warm temps will have concolidated the snowpack for the climbing crowd tomorrow.