John Frieh Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Trip: 7 days - Ice in 3 states Date: 1/14/2007 Trip Report: Summary: Jan 8th - 11th: Colorado - Bird Brain Boulevard (BBB), Mixed climbing Jan 12th: Utah - Stairway to Heaven (S2H) Jan 13th/14th: Oregon - Gorge Ice Ummm... where to start? Marcus and I had planned on a week somewhere the second week of Jan... we were tentatively planning on Cody but conditions lead us to CO. We left da Pearl last Sunday at 4 amish and 19 hours later were in Ouray. Welcome to Utah: This is the statue in Ouray (not kidding): I will let you draw your conclusions about Colorado kids On Monday we hit the ice park... it was ice festival week/weekend so we knew if we wanted to get on any of the routes we had in mind we had to do it early in the week. We both pumped ourselves stupid on Dizzy with the Vision and one of Helgi's routes (forget the name). We ran into Tom Tom and Philonius (don’t worry Phil… your secret is safe with us )... see their TR here: TR On Tuesday we headed for BBB... the more or less objective of the trip. I had heard of BBB before but didn't know too much about it where as Marcus has a long, storied history with as he calls it "the albatross". If you are like me and haven't heard of BBB for a little history/background (and some great pics) Jared Ogden recently wrote a great article on it: click me Basically BBB follows a chimney system more or less (in a few places you leave it) for 1200' and is generally done in 7 pitches (we simuled 4 and 5 so we did it in 6 pitches). When in the chimney system it varies in width but never gets wider than a wing span. In a few places it narrows down to a foot or so across so taller people (hint hint... Marcus is 6'7") or fat people (hint hint… I like doughnuts) find the climbing much more challenging then shorter people. BBB: BBB marked: But yeah... I'm no world ice travler but BBB is one of the coolest mixed ice routes I have ever done! We didn't get a ton of pics as while climbing it you can see each other for the first 10' or so off each belay and then they disappear into the chimney. But yeah... a few: MD starts pitch 2: start of pitch 3: MD following pitch 3: simuling 4 and 5: start of pitch 6 (for us #5): the 5.8 exit pitch: So on BBB day the car almost didn't start but I suspect the fact that I made many many many offerings to the ice gods the weekend prior in Hyalite (see puked my guts out and lost my wallet) the car started after a few fuse checks. We climbed BBB in 5:20... we could have gone sub 5 but a rope clusterfuck at one belay + Marcus having to channel his aid climbing placement experience for one anchor + someone (ummm... okay me) dropping one of their tools and having to downclimb 20' to it on the crux pitch cost us some time. But really... who cares? BBB will numb yer ballz... go do it! We ran into BillA and Brendon (spelling??? sorry man!)... the next day (Wednesday) the four of us headed up to the Skylight area. Bill and Brendon on p 2 of skylight: Marcus sampling some fine mixed climbing: BillA: Brendon: On Thursday Marcus and I drove to SLC... cheers to Kim for letting us dirtbag On Friday we climbing Stairway to Heaven (S2H): When fully formed S2H is 7 pitches long… only the first 5 were in when we did it. S2H is like 20 minutes on a paved asphalt trail from the car… maybe… if stop to have a sandwich… it took us like 10 minutes. Talk about urban climbing! Even better: S2H sports multiple mixed options on the side of almost every pitch so you could climb it differently every time We only did the first 4 pitches as I was having a major gaper day… embarrassing to say the least. I’m hoping to go back and get all 5 (if not all 7 if they all come in) sometime. Great route! After S2H we drove home. If you drive fast enough you can make the sunset last longer headed west: On Sat I caught up on work and did some laundry while Marcus checked out the gorge. On Sunday (today!) we headed out and did Starvin Marvin... Starvin Marvin: MD: After Starvin we hit Dog River Coffee in Hood River where the cutest barista ever hooked us up with stumptown and smiles… All great trips start and/or end at Dog River Gear Notes: Hair bender in the morning Los Delirious in the evening Approach Notes: da Pearl to Ouray: 19 hours da scenic route back Music Notes: Rilo Kiley, Arctic Monkeys, Johnny Cash (complete Folsom Prison is out!), Lucinda, etc etc etc Edited to add title. Quote
layton Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Did you gear up at the Patagonia Store in the Pearl to outfit yourselves with your true to form "Patagonia LifeStyles" type trip reports? Quote
John Frieh Posted January 15, 2007 Author Posted January 15, 2007 Where is Starvin' Marvin? Out of your league :lmao: Just kidding dude! Sorry couldn't resist! Check yer PMs for location Quote
Chad_A Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Where is Starvin' Marvin? Out of your league :lmao: Just kidding dude! Sorry couldn't resist! Check yer PMs for location Haha! You're not sayin' much, because it doesn't take much to be out of my league, heh heh....I'll check the PM. Thanx! Quote
John Frieh Posted January 15, 2007 Author Posted January 15, 2007 Did you gear up at the Patagonia Store in the Pearl to outfit yourselves with your true to form "Patagonia LifeStyles" type trip reports? Sorry you didn't like the "Patagonia LifeStyles" TR Mike... I'm not good at hyperbole TRs so this is the best I could do Quote
pope Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Bird Brain Boulevard looks like the shizzle. Nice report, enjoyed your photos. Quote
Hendershot Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Massive kudos. Thanks for sharing, very inspiring. Quote
DanielHarro Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 you guys make any dolphins?? Or swans?? What about the penguin pump, was is used? Good time, nice photos. Quote
G-spotter Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 BBB looks like a dream route! Is this in 50 Favorite Climbs? I seem to recall.. Quote
DirtyHarry Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Nice jorb guys! BBB looks like a gem. Dru - it is a 50 Favorite, but I can't remember of whom. Quote
iain Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 good tale! But I hope you're not wasting that hairbender on a french press...belongs as espresso for sure. Quote
ZimZam Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 I'm with envy. Pretty awesome stuff. Way cool pics too. :tup: Quote
John Frieh Posted January 15, 2007 Author Posted January 15, 2007 you guys make any dolphins?? Or swans?? What about the penguin pump, was is used? Good time, nice photos. Nope... only your bro is qualified and talented enough to craft such fine ice sculptures I did use the penguin pump as well as every other trick I knew in the gorge but I still got barfies It gets cold! Quote
sweatinoutliquor Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Photos are great! Awesome job John and Markus! Quote
billcoe Posted January 15, 2007 Posted January 15, 2007 Photos are great! Awesome job John and Markus! Ditto, massive traveling. Quote
BillA Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 Nice! Good times, good times. Here's a pic of John drytoolin' at skylight: Quote
sill Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 (edited) BBB is one of my favorite routes anywhere. It is in the best condition I've ever seen it. Over a thousand feet of mixed climbing twenty minutes from the car, pretty awsome. Not to many other routes of it's quality in the lower 48. Edited January 16, 2007 by sill Quote
BRenDanHoDGe Posted January 16, 2007 Posted January 16, 2007 Nice TR John! Any more photos of Bill and I? Quote
tyree Posted January 17, 2007 Posted January 17, 2007 DOOD- BBB looks like a kick in the pants! I dont really ice climb (cept for shit in the mtns.) but looking at those picks of that route make me want to sell my skis and get some tools of my own. (Well mabey not sell my skis, that was more for dramatic effect.) Nice TR! Thanx for sharing. Quote
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