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Everything posted by BillA
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[TR] Wolf Rock - Back to Mordor - Morgul Vale 6/21/2015
BillA replied to YocumRidge's topic in Oregon Cascades
Nice Anastasia! I did the second ascent of Morgul Vale with Tyler a couple weeks after he and Chris finished it. Love that climb! For history sake, it follows (very) roughly the same route as Gigantor, which was put up back in the 70's by Dean Fry and Wayne Arrington and had like one 1/4" bolt per pitch. I believe Tyler and Chris talked to Wayne about their plans and he said it was cool. No one is really sure where Gigantor went anyway, but hard to believe they could find a 5.8 route through some of that terrain. Anyway, psyched to see Tyler's routes get some traffic. He was proud of Morgul Vale, rightfully so, as it's one of the best (if not the best) long moderate route in Oregon. Now you should go to the Menagerie and climb some of his routes there! -
[TR] Mt Thielsen - East Face, "Brainless Child" 3/22/2014
BillA replied to treekiwi's topic in Oregon Cascades
Hell yeah guys, super awesome! Stoked that your dedication paid off! -
NW Alpine new website and special offer!
BillA replied to BillA's topic in On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
Just a heads up, promotion ends on the 15th. Thanks for the support everyone! -
NW Alpine new website and special offer!
BillA replied to BillA's topic in On-Line/Mail-Order Gear Shops
Thanks Jon, really stoked about it! Kevin, check out http://nwalpine.com/blog/archives/208 for pant sizing. We're currently redoing our size charts to make them look pretty, but this will give you a good idea for sizing. E-mail info@nwalpine.com if you have any other questions! -
Hello everyone! So we recently launched our new website at www.nwalpine.com. To celebrate we'd like to offer CascadeClimbers.com members a 20% discount and free limited edition t-shirt on orders over $100. Just use the discount code: CASCADECLIMBERS13 at check out. If you do end up ordering, make sure to include your t-shirt size in the order comments. We really appreciate all the support we've received from the NW climbing community over the past few years! If you've got the time you should also check out Daniel Harro's blog post on his trip to the Alaska Range, Jason Stuckey's report from his trip to the Revelations and beyond, and Matt Van Biene's near miss in Patagonia.
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No need for a topo, just walk to the end of the big ledge, climb up some mossy 5.8 past some newly replaced bolts to another ledge and belay. Traverse climber's right for the money pitch (obvious) which is awesome, and probably slightly sandbagged at 5.10a, then follow the ridge to the top.
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first ascent [TR] Mt Burkett - NW Face "Can't Knock the Hustle" (FA) 10/6/2012
BillA replied to John Frieh's topic in Alaska
"Can't knock the baby blue salopette" Nice work gentleman, stoked! Doug's ever increasingly hideous color combinations are an inspiration to us all. -
Psyched, come say hi at the NW Alpine table!!!
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I've got some used BD Vipers I need to get rid of. Picks still have quite a bit of life left in them, $275 for the pair. Located in Portland, I'll ship if need be.
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Not every route one bolts has to be sprayed to death on the internet and included in a guidebook. I recently visited a couple of the areas included in the new Northwest Oregon guidebook and was astonished that anyone would bother climbing there let alone including them in a guidebook. But hey, if you're having fun, go for it, but the rest of the world probably doesn't need to know. Eliminating the hype would eliminate a lot of potential negative issues with land managers AND a lot of the bickering associated with bolting within the community.
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Congrats Bill, super stoked! So when does this mean we'll see it in stores???
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Went skiing up Newton Creek a couple weeks ago and there was no ice on the spider at all...
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Howdy guys! So The Mountain Shop in Portland is going to have a limited selection of our gear starting this Spring (as in very soon!) and will have the full Fall/Winter 2012 lineup. We're also going to be in other select retailers around the US starting in the Fall. Feel free to e-mail us at info@nwalpine.com if you've got any other questions and friend us on Facebook if you use it because we update it fairly often. We've also got a mailing list you can sign up for here: http://nwalpine.com/archives/757 that we send updates to every few months.
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I've got no skin in the game, don't care one way or the other, but, correct me if I'm wrong, don't most people use the compressor route to descend Cerro Torre? A little hypocritical to use Maestri's bolts when you need a quick safe descent, but decry their use when you don't need them... From what I know (which is admittedly not much)any other descent off CT is significantly longer and more difficult. So will the haters still use the compressor route to descend? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Nice Steve, good work! Sounded sketchy when Tyler was telling me about it! Let's get out soon...
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Nice Tim! Good work!
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So did it get climbed or what?
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Yeah, not a good idea. PM me if you want beta.
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Howdy, I pretty much agree with what everyone else has said, they're useful for carrying when chances are you won't need an ice screw, but want to carry one just in case. Or for bailing. They're definitely crap for water ice climbing, but they're super light and increasingly hard to find. We've only got a few of the pins and screws left and once they're gone, they're gone for good. Check out this http://nwalpine.com/cascadeclimbers link for half off pitons and screws for CC.com members. Just include your username in the comments section when you're checking out. If you do order, they won't ship for about a week, as we're leaving to go on vacation today. Happy climbing! -Bill
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And who pulled that tick out of your nipple? Good times! You'll get better soon, so much choss to climb!