tyree

Came across this post randomly! Well, remember the problems I was having with my ski on this trip? It turns out I had a broken binding. I found this out after skiing the Park HW on the Watson traverse!!! Barely made it back....dyna-fiddles... Lesson learned? Check Dynafit bindings VERY closely for cracks. It was super hard to see but when I flexed the pins in the heel piece, the crack opened up. I had about a half inch of heel travel on that ski. No wonder I was skiing like shit!

SOLD!

Garmont Adrenaline size 28. I wear a size 11. They fit me well. email me at tyreecjohnson@gmail.com I never really check out this site anymore. I live in the sound area. pics upon request

I climbed the DOE tis summer. I can say that its proabally a grade V to the top. Why not...Liberty Crack is a grade V and way shorter/faster. The last part of the route is a long meandering ridge that if climbed directly on the ridge the entire way would certainly be at least grade V. Its a big comlex face with many options to choose from. One thing to consider is that it is very out of character with the rest of the route; considering that I climbed it in my approach shoes(recommended). Next time I will proabably rap off after the hard pitches because those are the goods. The ridge certainly adds to the experience of the route- to climb a big peak like D-tail. But inn hindsight the first part of the route is the best. The rest...well you can decide for yourself.

If you still want the beta let me know. D has my number or I might see you at the Y this fall. Sorry to hear about your wife getting covered with another man's spray...

until the whole damn thing crashes down on the unlucky fucker who happens to be there. the best crag in wa is a secret, and only 1.5 hours from seattle. "was" a secret... Speaking of which: Were is this Equinox Wall everyone's been spraying about? Close to Mt. Vernon? Help a brother out. If it were up your ass you would know...jesus. If you are serious give berdinka a call, he's got my number.

until the whole damn thing crashes down on the unlucky fucker who happens to be there. the best crag in wa is a secret, and only 1.5 hours from seattle. "was" a secret...

hOOOOOOOOOOh!!!

Hey there Bobby. I think that the chimneys may be dry enough to climb by now. Its been pretty dry and unless you plan on doing the 5.12 corner you should be OK by doing the 10d sketchy(not that bad really). All the other stuff will be dry. Super awsome finish to the Grand Wall! Another option is to finish on the retro-bolted/cleaned Upper Black Dyke.

Flash check your PM's

Who wants to go climbing tomorrow? Index or some other place? 10's-11's. I'm driving from Bellingham. tyreecjohnson@gmail.com

Great TR Sol. Idylic is the way I would describe the week for sure, perfect weather with NO BUGS, until the last day... The bolts on the passenger are not set up to aid or even frenchy with. I suppose you could try to do some pendulum friction/tension but I think that you would have better luck trying to free it than mess with shenanigans like that. Thanks for all of the stoak!

Climbed it yesterday with 1 #4 C4... pretty usless, I was run out essentially the entire pitch but the climbng was very easy for 5.9 OW. A #5 might help a bit, but if you really want to protect it you should bring a #6.

The Bellinghm climbing scene suks!!! ask anybody on this site, especially if you are coming from p-town or seattle. There was a thread on this a year or two ago; do a search and you can see for your self...search: bellingham climbing scene sucks.

Mt Baker BC stokey

I went out there a long time ago and got turned around by weather/lack of time. Beautiful area and nice looking route. Nice work!

The way to make DHLA "better" is to do the 2p.(11b/c,11a) Sensless Thoughts of Paranoia variation. Travese right from the top of p.3 of DHLA to some hard face climbing on bolts to a 5.11 crack. Then the next pich starts out thin crack to a bulge then more fun face climbing on bolts. Very good, I recomend STOP as a good alternative to the regular DHLA if you are up to it.

Nice pics Blake, the weather sucks for big stuff this year...

Just rappel down Heavens Gate with one 70m fromthe top. From the top get on the trial and head down about 200 yards and look for a clearing in the trees next to the cliff. Follow the trai to the clearing and peer over the edge, go around the tree and clip into the anchor then downclimb to the fat ledge. Four single rope rappels easily take you to the bottom. this is much nicer that rapping off DHLA or walking down the trail to the gully to rap (got the rope stuck once a long time ago) .

Very nice TR! I had a blast when I was up there this year... the first few hunrded feet arent that good but the rest is stellar. Nice job guys!!!

PS- has anybody climbed the labor day route or the 1937 rt on the summit pyramid? Any beta on either would be appriciated...

Yeah I'm glad that I didnt know about how sketchy the snow fin was until I was already commited to the rappel. That was THIN! I proabally wouldnt have gone up there if I had known. Sol was saying, "dude, do you realize that you are on a super thin snow fin?" as I was digging the bollard. I remember thinking to myself "whatever Dad- I dont need the lecture" but once underneath it I realized how fucked up it really was...I wish we had a pic of it. Good times- and thanks for picking out yet another gem Darrin. Whats next?

Dude!- what are you waiting for? Post a TR already... Moses will approve I'm sure

Mabey you were abducted by aliens on the way down!!! Nice route, i like the name too...