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John Frieh

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Everything posted by John Frieh

  1. Sorry to disappoint but this is not a thread about getting together and pooling money for a group rate on a hooker in NE… (but what you do afterwards is your business) This is a thread for anyone who: - has come to the conclusion that though you spent way more on a pair of ice tools than just about any other piece of equipment you own (rock shoes, etc) you use them way less (if not the least) - has decided that the best place to learn how to dry tool is probably on TR and not 30’ above a bullshit picket somewhere off route on Hood - would like to the chance to “accidentally” drop an ice tool on mine or anyone else’s head from this site you find annoying and/or stupid (sorry I can’t guarantee Iain is going to show ) - need a reason to justify buying new crampons to the wife (look… they’re bent! and dull! please?!?) - are a cute single female who finds bandanas and/or leather vests attractive and additionally has googled the name Michael Layton prior to attending (google block!) - are a scrawny 140 lb boulder who in lieu of the fact that you post numerous pics of your crimp fest exploits and could out crank anyone from this site (if the approach isn’t longer than ¼ mile) for the life of you still can’t seem to impress fellow lady climbers and need to find a more impressive type of climbing - are burnt out on the gym - is just interested in trying out dry tooling… no prior experience required! Bottom line: Myself and a few other social inept have been dry tooling at rock butte for the past few months and thought we’d extend the invite to anyone (lurkers included) interested. Honestly we are a bunch of bumbles so don’t sweat us publicly heckling you if you can’t send M4. This is a great chance to pump your self silly all while trying out yet another type of climbing and meeting some fellow turds from cc.com… think of it as alpiners anonymous… Details: First annual drytool night will be this Wednesday, January 12. Ivan will likely be there first at 3:30ish… I should be there by 4. We generally stay at least a few hours unless people want to come but can’t be there until 6 then I am willing to stay… let me know. We will be climbing c. 150’ climbers left of the silver bullet wall. If you don’t know where this is just follow these instructions: After 3 speedbumps the road bends right and passes a big tan dome building. Park past the big tan dome building (look for a silver pickup), cross the road into the woods and walk c. 100’. You should immediately pass a tunnel on your right that goes underneath the road (good warm up area is you are early). Walk c. 100’ along the top of the cliff looking for some TR anchors/listening for the sounds of shitty footwork with crampons on (screech!) and Ivan’s famous lead mouth . I will put some green glow sticks on the TR anchors so we are more easily identified and it will scare away the bums. If you start to head significantly downhill you have gone too far. What to bring: - helmet (preferable with a face shield or other eye protection… though if you have good looks to spare unlike the rest of us don’t worry about it) If you don’t have one or one with a face shield but would like to have a face shield let me know… we can rotate. - harness with belay device - ice tools if you have them. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. - crampons: preferable something with longer points (i.e sabertooths, sarkens, etc). shorter points are okay but you’re going to have to work a little harder. Again if you don’t have them but want to borrow let me know. - boots: leathers climb better but if you want to try and simulate alpine conditions wear what you would in the alpine. Bring ice cubes if you want me to drop them on you if you really want to stimulate alpine conditions. What ever you bring make sure you can get pons on them. - headlamp. If you don’t have a pair let me know and it shouldn’t be a problem. We stay well after sunset so be prepared! - warm jacket (it gets cold), rain gear - beverage of choice (thermos of hot coffee is highly recommended and a good way to make friends and send hard shit ) - either tight fitting full fingered gloves or a lot of tape and band aids (ask Ivan ) With everything you bring don’t bother with your fancy stuff… its muddy and most likely wet… no reason to trash your goretex taking swingers… insulated Carhartt work great. This especially applies to gloves… you will beat on them so what ever they are make sure they aren’t your new pair. And if people want to try out different tools (especially leashless) or crampons (monos) this would be a good opportunity… I am happy letting people test drive my ergos or monos (let me know if this is the case)… I hope others don’t mind sharing too. What to do prior to showing up - pm me and let me know you’re coming so I can determine how many TRs we need - tell your boss you have a dentist appointment or something and need to leave work tomorrow early (or skip your classes if you are a student… that means you OSU!) - if your crampons have two front bail positions move the bail back so you get as much front point showing as possible (and make sure your pons are sized to the boots you plan on wearing - remove your adze unless you are brave enough to cam it - if you have multiple picks put in your most beat up pair… they should be negative-clearance picks… don’t sweat the point of the tool being sharp… just make sure the initial set of teeth are somewhat sharp. If you have your choice put in 4mm picks. Bring an extra pick just in case - take off your antibott plates (especially if you have plastic ones like those on the sarkens)… they unfortunately don’t keep the used condoms from balling up on your pons. Finally Generally we hit burrito loco # 3 afterward for some cheap authentic grub and the chance to cauterize any wounds you incur with the hot sauce there (ask Ivan) and talk shit about routes you found biners on. PM me if you will be joining us!
  2. [TR] Sloan Peak - Corkscrew 11/17/2018

    Great TR. How long did the approach take before you broke out of the brush? How was the road to where you parked?
  3. Trip: Mount Temple - Greenwood Jones Trip Date: 08/03/2017 Details: Given the reputation and lore select Canadian Rockies north faces hold I've always wanted to climb one but never had the opportunity minus a failed attempt on GCC on Kitchner way back in the late fall of 2008. High my list was/is any route on Mount Temple but avy conditions in the winter and grizzly conditions in the summer/fall had prevented me from ever trying. My understanding is most years the CAN parks require (communists ) a minimum party size of 4 for anyone entering the area below the north face or risk BIG fines (and possibly a grizzly encounter ). As finding another team of 2 keen on an alpine start that was also willing to climb a different route was pretty much impossible I never have had a chance to try. However in August of 2017 I heard they made the party size a recommendation and not a requirement. Lucky for me Daniel Harro was also keen so we pointed it north. Based on dawn & sunrise times and our plan to filter water at the lake we settled on a 3:30 departure. We started the face slightly later than I had hoped and wandered around trying to make sense of the beta before settling into the route. Everything you heard is true: choss to perfection and everything in between. Not the worst rock I have climbed but Oregon volcano climbers have a high threshold. Managed to climb it without placing pins but we definitely clipped a few along the way. All in all an awesome route and deserving of the status. I definitely want to come back for Greenwood Locke (in colder temps) and the Cardiac Arete on the Grand Sentinel looks awesome. We found this TR in conjunction the most useful for route finding but even then we scratched our heads more than once and I had to reverse/downclimb a few false starts. Pins can show the way as well as get you way off route If you try to do it in a day (which I recommend as it makes the packs more manageable) you need to save as much daylight as possible for the descent; I would expect attempting to follow the cairns down in the dark even with a headlamp challenging at best especially if you go back to your car via Paradise Valley. A google search will turn up more than a few TRs that detail a night spent out high on the mountain. Gear Notes: Standard rack. Took pins but didnt use them. Crampon and mini ice axe. Approach Notes: Opted for the car to car option
  4. Trip: Strobach - Jatinga (FA) Trip Date: 01/30/2018 Summary: First Ascent of Jatinga WI4 35m John Frieh and Joel Campeau January 30 2018 Details: Joel and Jen did a recon trip the weekend prior and baited me with photos of what appeared to be unclimbed ice climbers right of "First on Right." Even better it looked extremely similar to the Hyalite classic "The Thrill is Gone." Two days later Joel and I returned and made good time to the base drafting the trail he and Jen had punched in a few days prior. I saddled up and with a cool head and creative ice screw placements was able piece it together before finally getting good rock gear higher up. Finally "interesting" thin climbing (classic Strobach) guarded the top out. We rapped off a tree climbers right of the top out. Joel followed and we then ran a lap on what apparently was the very first route ever climbed at Strobach "First on Right" which we both found to be very steep off the ground before easing higher up. Joel and I did some recon hiking after that and found some other possabilities that Jen and he climbed the weekend after that. Hopefully they post a TR soon! Shout and a BIG thanks to Alex Krawarik for always being willing and able to answer all my Strobach questions! You the man! Gear Notes: Rock gear + stubbies recommended (required?) Approach Notes: Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide
  5. GPS struggled at times on the face but it give you a good general idea of the route. SuuntoMovie.mp4
  6. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @jon I clip them on my neutrinos. And they save ones face a little when someone forgets the sunscreen
  7. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @JasonG the chockstone pic is the actual crux; ice or no ice. Looking at the guidebook and the few other pics I could find usually the ice forms a curtain over the chockstone which I could see making it a little easier...? Either way it was a fun day out for us
  8. [TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

    @olyclimber Air France and Alaska Air love me but not for my climbing travel
  9. first ascent [TR] Strobach - Jatinga (FA) 01/30/2018

    Thanks @JasonG I've got a Mt Temple Greenwood Jones TR and a Montana/Wyoming trip in the works.
  10. Trip: Canadian Rockies - Ghost Date: 1/3/2016 Trip Report: First time in the ghost. AMAZING! Big thanks to Tim Banfield for the tour and place to stay in Calgary. World Class. Climbed in the Valley of the Birds and Beowulf first day and Sorcerer on day 2. All photos by Tim or Nate Goodwin Daniel Harro on Yellow Bird Beowulf Truly one of the all time best Gear Notes: Standard kit Approach Notes: Stock Toyota Tundra no lift.
  11. PORTLAND! Tonight, Wednesday, at 7 pm at Arcteryx on NW 23rd Radek will share photos from this trip and others. FREE BEER, Arcteryx prizes and international climbing radness. Hope to see you there!
  12. New, extended Enchantment Area permit season

    Just in time for the new guidebook
  13. Food on the Ruth Glacier

    I usually take a 0 for basecamp. The -20 is probably the safe bet unless you can borrow a 0 from someone.
  14. Food on the Ruth Glacier

    20 will work unless you go in early April... Early and late April are often very different.
  15. Yes they have. Brunckhorst guide book
  16. Trip: Wyoming - Leaning Tree Date: 1/9/2016 Trip Report: I have to say this one lived up to the hype. Best WI3... ever? Quite possibly. So pleased I finally found some time and a partner to get this one done. Many thanks to Joe Josephson for the beta and Aaron Mulkey for the personal guided tour. Approach Notes: Don't fall in the river
  17. Hyalite/Bozeman beta

    +1 for Royal 7. Great spot
  18. [TR] Canadian Rockies - Ghost 1/3/2016

    [video:youtube] Unless driving conditions are ideal I wouldn't suggest it.
  19. [TR] Canadian Rockies - Ghost 1/3/2016

    Unless driving conditions are ideal I wouldn't suggest it.
  20. Place to rent in Portland?

    I might have something for you on SW Corbett. Let me check.
  21. Alpinist magazine back issues GONE!!!

    Ill take them. PM sent
  22. Denali pricing

    Great reply Mark. Some great points here.
  23. Petzl harness b*tchfest

    I crag in the new Adjama and I like it. Check out the Aquila if you want a super padded harness that still climbs well or the Sitta for super lightweight performance. The Sitta is amazingly comfortable for weighing what it does. The FL 365 from Arcteryx is a fairly sweet harness also. Leg loops aren't adjustable but not a deal breaker for me.
  24. AK flight pricing

    Talkeetna Air Taxi is worth every penny and one of the best in the entire state. Fly with them a few times and they will start giving you serious discounts on your flights. The owner is an actual climber so he can give you real beta instead of vague speculation. Cant say enough good things about them.
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