wildbillc Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 What is "cbr west face"? cbr? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Colchuck Blue Ribbon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 I just read through this whole thread, and my favorite chimney has not been mentioned. Namely, Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock near LeavenWorth. Â A great day can be had doing what I've liked to call the Offwidth Tour of Midnight/Castle: The Fault, Damnation Crack, Easter Overhang, The Flame, Rollercoaster Chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Â Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Â Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Â I think there is an entire forum set aside at www.rockclimbing.com where people can stroke themselves over how many pitches less they did Epenephrine in than the next guy. You should check it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 What OW are at Smith? Â Â Anyone......... Â Anyone......... Â I don't think King Kong would be valid, but how about the 5th pitch of the route that goes up Parking lot wall, Free lunch? Â Anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 I recall AlpineK wrestled one down in Smith in the gorge last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 CBR- chimney pitch Backbone ridge-standard O/W pitch, and then the 7" offwidth higher up and off route on the fin... N. Ridge on stuart White satin-first pitch....not to nice of a pitch Anyone done Last Gasp at smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 Sounds like all you need is 100 feet of black 1/4'' steel cable and a come a long. retail cost: $200 Â WTF??? Hey all you need is 5/8" cable and a comealong and then clip into that baby and start walking across it. Get out your static 11mm's in the meantime and start practice walking them until its installed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chirp Posted January 14, 2005 Share Posted January 14, 2005 NW by NE... TAD, great route...great band. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted January 16, 2005 Share Posted January 16, 2005 Likely to be memorable: Â Clean Corner at Squamish for chimney OW pitch on Memorial Pillar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted January 17, 2005 Share Posted January 17, 2005 ...are for the masochistic. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 Hey, nobody mentioneed Blue Autumn at Vantage. Looks to be a bit more accesible now that that pesky tower got knocked down. Anybody climb this one? I've had my eye on it for a while I just need to round up all the big gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 What area is it in and what is the rating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 It's left of Party In Your Pants, and is 10B offwidth. The book says 4 stars. A friend of mine has climbed it and like it very much. He said it is much cleaner and more sustained than Steel Grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 Hey, nobody mentioneed Blue Autumn at Vantage. Looks to be a bit more accesible now that that pesky tower got knocked down. Anybody climb this one? I've had my eye on it for a while I just need to round up all the big gear. Â I did it yesterday,...well at least half of it before I ran out of big gear and lowered. The smallest pieces it takes is around 3 inches. I found it surprisingly hard. Much harder then Bob's Your Uncle, Shrinking Ball Disease, and Stems and Seeds on lead. Hell, it even seemed harder then Red M&M...but maybe I am not an offwidth kind of guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 (edited) Tube chocks are your friend! Â Edited January 28, 2005 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 anyone ever climb the ape and ballerina at index, guidebook says pitch 1 is a fist crack that overhangs by 25ft. now if only i could talk someone into hiking up there. Â I've walked past this route. Looks really nice, but really, really dirty with a tree growing out of it. Bet it would be a fine route if someone wanted a cleaning project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 The last pitch of Narrow Arrow at Index is a short, full on OW. Bring something bigger than a 4 to protect it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 Charlies Chimney at Smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted January 28, 2005 Share Posted January 28, 2005 NOLSe - what route is that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted January 29, 2005 Share Posted January 29, 2005 We rappeled Apes and Ballerinas, I remember it being beautiful!...and maybe not as dirty as TimL suggested. There is some amazing country up there.... The Terry/ Michael might be the most "out there" 11c at Index! ( I have not sampled that forbidden gem) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wimsey Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 immediately right of this climb is an amazing offwidth: Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8216 Â Redsides: gradually widens from splitter fingers to splitter 8" over 100 feet. 2 moves of every crack technique. The crag is an offwidth/chimney lovers dream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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