wildbillc

I currently use a mini traxion for a top rope solo belay device. In the past I have used a jumar and a shunt, but the mini traxion gives me the most confidence, especially on the overhangs. The m-traxion is a hauling device, am I out of control using it for TR soloing???

I need to get in shape for a couple of upcoming trips, looking for someone interested in lead climbing or cleaning behind me. I lead up to 10+. Great chance to get some gear handling in even if you don't lead that hard... Any takers? Cody

Hey retired and Corvallisclimb, noticed corvallis is interested in replacing bolts... beings the menagerie is a ground up bolting ethic and I would gues the route does not have alot of bolts on it anyway, whats the call on replacement of bolts? Certainly no additional bolts should be added.

Isn't the Salathe a bit of a stretch for ones first big wall, seems more reasonalbe to get on something like the west face of leaning tower and earn your badge prior to the real deal.

Think I got it covered for red rocks, turns out I only have the 19th available, thanks for the responces. Hey Retired, how much do I owe you for those comments, or what scrary pitches will you make me lead???

Hey Mellisa, I posted, climbing partner, "Red Rocks mid March", check it out. I may be up for a day in the canyons and never say no to a party. Cody

I am going to be in Vagas mid march and hope to hook up with someone for a day of climbing. I lead sport 11- and trad 10+ , enjoy climbing at all levels. Have climbed: Levitation 29, Eagle dance, solor slap, bulahs book Epenephrine, Dream of the wild turkeys, Yellow brick road, refried brains, Crimpson... Would love to climb prince of darkness or hook up for a afternoon of single pitch sport climbing. Last time I hooked up with a unknown partner at red rocks I draged him up the first three pitches of prince of darkness prior to bailing, Hope to avoid reliving that experience. Cody

OK, I am no mountaineer but assuming the leader is not seriusly hurt seems the easiest and safest method would be for him to self rescue by simply jug out. Hauling off a snow anchor (up to 3X anchor load) to pull the leader out seems like a last resort, especially with a two man team. But then I gues you wouldn't get to practice your rescue rescue system and isn't that what mountaineering is all about?

Many of those are impressive routes to be done alone in a day, Impressive link ups. I used to go to red rocks and climb as many routes as I could per day, after 3 days of hard climbing my trip was pretty much over. Now days I take a week and start out slow, take warm up day of easy sport, a long multi pitch route, a rest day, hard multi pitch day... My objective is to get alot of routes in durring the whole trip, but then I am just a mortal climber.

The sp is a nice devise for self belay lead climbing but seems much less versatal then the gri for aid. In aid the gri is used for self belay leading, belaying, and jugging, when short fixing you can leave it on the rope all day long whether you are leading or following. The sp is a bit of a hassle putting on and off the rope and the aspect of having to gain some fall speed prior to locking it up can shake you up a bit. Either one you choose will work, the key with bothe is to ALLWAYS TIE A BACK UP KNOT (thats allso the key to them feeding correctly). CP

Hey, I can be human allso, I just have big plans for the end of Sept and have some lost time to make up for. No takers? Good trad leading practice, even if you just want to follow/clean.

5.10 trad leader looking for early morning partner for the columns . The routine will be fast and furius, 6 leads and a couple of TR's, and then limp to work, can that be done in 1.5 hours? Sept 6th - Sept 22. Let me know if your up to it. Cody

Two grade IV in two days... Most likely you could but it might be more fun to get used to the rock on a couple of sport climbs and something tasty like Dark Shadows (5.8 trad 3 pitches)for your first day and then do one of the five star long routes the second day. I don't think it is nessasary to spend the night on any of the grade IV, allways seems like alot more work to bring the bivy gear and as chanard says for epinephrine "if you bring bivy gear you will use it..." just leave camp early and have a turn around time.

Nice long routes there, what grade are you looking for? Bulas book into sollar slab can be combined for a total of 10+ pitches and goes at 5.9 - 5.6, Refried brains 5.9 for 7+ pitches, frog land 5.8 (never done it due to traffic) Epinephrine 5.9 grad V? climb to the top of the tower for 8 pitches (by the book) or top out by doing all pitches 15 -20. eagle dance 5.10 7 pitches... The list goes on and on at red rocks. If your going prior to late october try to pick long routes in the shade. Unless your planning on spending the night on a route you should make sure that you have a turnaround time, for instance top of the 6 pitch by 2pm or wrap off. don't take my ratings or pitch numbers to seriusly Im sure theres some errors. Give me a belay and I will break out the red rocks select. Mon or Wed mornings early work well.

Sorry to see you didn't get a partner for the trip, I would love to make it to the bugs in the next couple of years.

Tyler, How about next wend night at the colums. We could work on cam hooks, jugging, and maybe some short fixing if your up to it. I am down for a couple more weeks with a knee injury but would enjoy "couching" and belaying. Send me a PM if your interested.

Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW.

Insults will get you no where.

I have the time and the 10 year parters/good freind to climb with, but thats kinda reclusize, my free is spent climbing in "remote arias" with the same partners. I feel the need to get out in the climbing comunity a bit more, or should I just say I would like to make some new freinds. Why a women, and yes I am a male, seems my relationship with guys I climb with is limited to climbing.

No you are not thinking of the right guy. I am the guy getting in 10 laps and hitting the road. No time to spray and no burley chest to show.

OK, I am in a rut, been climbing with the same old guys for years and know lots of special climbing arias but looking to share them with a someone new. I have 15+ years of climbing experience, climb 5.11, done a elcap aid route (the Zodiac in april). I Know my way around fag stone, wolf rock, the menagerie, hills creek, and yes of course the columns. Enjoy trips to Smith, Red Rocks, the Valley. Knee injury keeping me down for a bit but would love to just get out to belay or a cup of coffee.

So drill new 1/4" holes vs drill out exesting holes to 3/8"? Or is there some type of glue in 1/4" that would fit well in a tapered hole? Im not sure if every one understands the nature of the rock on the route, it is not granit.

I made the original post on rockclimbing.com and am looking for some imput on replacing a few bolts, about 12' of the bolt ladder is gone and should be replaced, any comments on what should go in the holes? I would like to reuse the existing holes but this would require drilling them out for 3/8". Some imput I have recieved is original diameter bolts should be used, I still think 3/8" would be best for perserving the route in the long run. And Yes the route is the West Face Aid Route of Monkey Face. The condition of the route was posted in January on Smithrocks.com in the missing bolts section.