wildbillc Posted July 9, 2004 Posted July 9, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Quote
Otto Posted July 12, 2004 Posted July 12, 2004 I just read through this whole thread, and my favorite chimney has not been mentioned. Namely, Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock near LeavenWorth. Â A great day can be had doing what I've liked to call the Offwidth Tour of Midnight/Castle: The Fault, Damnation Crack, Easter Overhang, The Flame, Rollercoaster Chimney. Quote
specialed Posted July 12, 2004 Posted July 12, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Â Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 12, 2004 Posted July 12, 2004 Epinephrine, Red Rocks,You can just do the first 8 pitches of the chimneys or the whole 21 pitches (can be done in 15 - 17 pithces, but thats not the NW. Â Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Quote
dberdinka Posted July 12, 2004 Posted July 12, 2004 Fuck that. We did it in six pitches. Â I think there is an entire forum set aside at www.rockclimbing.com where people can stroke themselves over how many pitches less they did Epenephrine in than the next guy. You should check it out! Quote
billcoe Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 What OW are at Smith? Â Â Anyone......... Â Anyone......... Â I don't think King Kong would be valid, but how about the 5th pitch of the route that goes up Parking lot wall, Free lunch? Â Anyone? Quote
ken4ord Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 I recall AlpineK wrestled one down in Smith in the gorge last year. Quote
skyclimb Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 CBR- chimney pitch Backbone ridge-standard O/W pitch, and then the 7" offwidth higher up and off route on the fin... N. Ridge on stuart White satin-first pitch....not to nice of a pitch Anyone done Last Gasp at smith Quote
JosephH Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 Sounds like all you need is 100 feet of black 1/4'' steel cable and a come a long. retail cost: $200 Â WTF??? Hey all you need is 5/8" cable and a comealong and then clip into that baby and start walking across it. Get out your static 11mm's in the meantime and start practice walking them until its installed... Quote
chirp Posted January 14, 2005 Posted January 14, 2005 NW by NE... TAD, great route...great band. Quote
Cairns Posted January 16, 2005 Posted January 16, 2005 Likely to be memorable: Â Clean Corner at Squamish for chimney OW pitch on Memorial Pillar Quote
Sol Posted January 27, 2005 Posted January 27, 2005 Hey, nobody mentioneed Blue Autumn at Vantage. Looks to be a bit more accesible now that that pesky tower got knocked down. Anybody climb this one? I've had my eye on it for a while I just need to round up all the big gear. Quote
catbirdseat Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 What area is it in and what is the rating? Quote
MCash Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 It's left of Party In Your Pants, and is 10B offwidth. The book says 4 stars. A friend of mine has climbed it and like it very much. He said it is much cleaner and more sustained than Steel Grill. Quote
gyselinck Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 Hey, nobody mentioneed Blue Autumn at Vantage. Looks to be a bit more accesible now that that pesky tower got knocked down. Anybody climb this one? I've had my eye on it for a while I just need to round up all the big gear. Â I did it yesterday,...well at least half of it before I ran out of big gear and lowered. The smallest pieces it takes is around 3 inches. I found it surprisingly hard. Much harder then Bob's Your Uncle, Shrinking Ball Disease, and Stems and Seeds on lead. Hell, it even seemed harder then Red M&M...but maybe I am not an offwidth kind of guy. Quote
John Frieh Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 (edited) Tube chocks are your friend! Â Edited January 28, 2005 by NOLSe Quote
TimL Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 anyone ever climb the ape and ballerina at index, guidebook says pitch 1 is a fist crack that overhangs by 25ft. now if only i could talk someone into hiking up there. Â I've walked past this route. Looks really nice, but really, really dirty with a tree growing out of it. Bet it would be a fine route if someone wanted a cleaning project. Quote
TimL Posted January 28, 2005 Posted January 28, 2005 The last pitch of Narrow Arrow at Index is a short, full on OW. Bring something bigger than a 4 to protect it! Quote
lancegranite Posted January 29, 2005 Posted January 29, 2005 We rappeled Apes and Ballerinas, I remember it being beautiful!...and maybe not as dirty as TimL suggested. There is some amazing country up there.... The Terry/ Michael might be the most "out there" 11c at Index! ( I have not sampled that forbidden gem) Quote
wimsey Posted January 30, 2005 Posted January 30, 2005 immediately right of this climb is an amazing offwidth: Â http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=8216 Â Redsides: gradually widens from splitter fingers to splitter 8" over 100 feet. 2 moves of every crack technique. The crag is an offwidth/chimney lovers dream. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.