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Posted

I've only taken a handfull of serious whippers on my trad gear, but I seem to rely on the red alien when I need it the most. What's your favorite piece for the runout moves?

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Posted

these are the pieces I've taken the longest falls on "successfully"

 

#2 Camalot

blue alien

green alien

Smileys/Black Diamond screw

 

these are the pieces that were not up to snuff (i.e. broke)

 

Black Diamond #1 wired nut (ground fall)

yellow alien (ground fall)

Posted

I have taken several long falls on my pink and blue Tri cams I almoooost like them more than regular cams. They dont walk and after they are set if they are placed well they have always been bomber for me.

Posted

Hybrid Alien

 

...either Blue/Green or Yellow/Green

 

Can't tell you how many times I've plugged one of those in a nice pin scar to prevent a long fall after being run out on cam hooks for a while. I hate to leave them behind on a pitch, but sometimes it is the only sane thing to do...

Posted

Whipper...... never taken one. What are you wankers whining about now? the_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gif

 

on runouts though... give a giant hex that's been jerk set nice and tight any day. Besides, then you can use it stand on as you climb by! wink.gif

Posted

I think my two longest falls were held by a #10 hex and a 1/4" bolt.

 

I double the comment about the finger through the hanger. Getting "de-gloved" is no laughing matter.

Posted

the blue alien and #00 TCU have both held falls for me. Like Minx my yellow alien is a favorite on my rack.

 

Back in 95 when I first started climbing, my partner took a 25' whipper on the last pitch of Lady Bug at Lover's Leap. A chicken head broke off and the only thing that kept him from serious injury was a #3 brass nut. The whole deal scared the sh!t out of me, being that it was my first multipitch climb and my partner was too scared to lead us out. I learned how to lead real quick...

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