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Winter

What piece has saved your ass?

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I've only taken a handfull of serious whippers on my trad gear, but I seem to rely on the red alien when I need it the most. What's your favorite piece for the runout moves?

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for no reason what so ever, when it comes to smaller stuff, if i'm feeling sketched, i grab the yellow alien.

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which ever one is the most bomber!!

 

I've managed to whip on most everything from 00's to #3 camalots. They are all my favorite

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Slung Trees and the larger nuts BD (10 - 13) inspire the most confidence from me.

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these are the pieces I've taken the longest falls on "successfully"

 

#2 Camalot

blue alien

green alien

Smileys/Black Diamond screw

 

these are the pieces that were not up to snuff (i.e. broke)

 

Black Diamond #1 wired nut (ground fall)

yellow alien (ground fall)

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my pink tricam caught my first whipper and i dont' leave the ground without it now.

pink is such a nice pretty color.

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I have taken several long falls on my pink and blue Tri cams I almoooost like them more than regular cams. They dont walk and after they are set if they are placed well they have always been bomber for me.

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Hybrid Alien

 

...either Blue/Green or Yellow/Green

 

Can't tell you how many times I've plugged one of those in a nice pin scar to prevent a long fall after being run out on cam hooks for a while. I hate to leave them behind on a pitch, but sometimes it is the only sane thing to do...

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Whipper...... never taken one. What are you wankers whining about now? the_finger.gifthe_finger.gifthe_finger.gif

 

on runouts though... give a giant hex that's been jerk set nice and tight any day. Besides, then you can use it stand on as you climb by! wink.gif

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I think my two longest falls were held by a #10 hex and a 1/4" bolt.

 

I double the comment about the finger through the hanger. Getting "de-gloved" is no laughing matter.

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the blue alien and #00 TCU have both held falls for me. Like Minx my yellow alien is a favorite on my rack.

 

Back in 95 when I first started climbing, my partner took a 25' whipper on the last pitch of Lady Bug at Lover's Leap. A chicken head broke off and the only thing that kept him from serious injury was a #3 brass nut. The whole deal scared the sh!t out of me, being that it was my first multipitch climb and my partner was too scared to lead us out. I learned how to lead real quick...

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