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Everything posted by jkrueger

  1. CC.com Factions

    Vote yourself into a faction so we know who is in the majority here and can revolt accordingly.
  2. Dear moron,

    Did you try *asking* for help?
  3. [TR] prusik peak- west ridge 7/3/2005

    Nice outing! I've been wanting to do that one, but haven't found anyone to carry my pack for me . . .
  4. favorite bumper stickers of all time?

    This land is my land This land is your land That explains all of the lawsuits
  5. Climbing Etiquette question

    When climbing sport, it is generally accepted that a send on hanging draws still counts as a redpoint. It's not full value, per se, but a redpoint just the same. That would be silly.
  6. What's on your iPod?

    As of late he's getting airplay on the Halo 2 video game. It's probably his biggest audience since he went toe to toe with Ralph Macchio in Crossroads.
  7. Return2Sender

    Return2Sender -- 2005 Spring Tour http://www.return2sendermovie.com/ Big-air antics of free climbing pro Timmy O’Neill in the Peter Mortimer film Return2Sender . . . Washington Seattle: April 26, 7:00pm, Neptune Theater British Columbia Vancouver: April 27, 7:00 & 9:00pm, Macmillan Planetarium Oregon Portland: May 4, 7:00pm, Hollywood Theatre Eugene: May 5, 7:00pm, UofO/177 Lawrence Hall Bend: May 6, 7:00pm, Tower Theater -- There are 3 video clips from Parellojams (shot at Indian Creek) online at: http://www.bigupproductions.com
  8. Can anybody substantiate/dismiss the rumor that Hydrotube, the classic line at Flagstone, has been retrobolted? I'm beginning to fear that there really are no ethics in climbing -- especially in Oregon!
  9. how/why do you choose what you climb?

    Ah . . . not bitching or complaining; just fleshing out some of the grey areas by providing some counterpoint to your arguments, Rudy. I have the utmost respect for Adam as a climber and a person. He is exactly who he is and makes no apologies or justifications to anybody for it. However, I'm not entirely convinced that chipping is an acceptable means of route development. But at the same time, I realize that there are no absolutes. I don't expect anybody to live up to the same standards as me, hold the rock sacred, or even see chipping as a controversial issue. What I do is my choice, and what you do is yours. No, I haven't developed anything at Smith. But I have developed trad routes in Oregon that involved copious amounts of trundling, prying, scrubbing, and destruction of plant and tree life. I made a decision as to what means I would use to justify my ends. Route development is, ultimately, a selfish act. And yes, it can be a lot of work. I have even been told to be "less aggressive" in my cleaning tactics, which I'm taking on suggestion.
  10. how/why do you choose what you climb?

    I'm not living in la la land. Quite the opposite. I'm well aware there are chipped routes at Smith. I've probably even climbed a few. I know a person that has pried away huge blocks and chipped nearly entire routes there. Granted, the lines and moves look good. But at what point does it become justifiable to debase the rock for the sake of creating a route?
  11. how/why do you choose what you climb?

    Ah, this is not surprising coming from the man who once proclaimed "There are no ethics in climbing." Though I disagree (about the ethics thing), I do respect your consistency. I have yet to encounter the route that was established with such disregard to the established ethics of the area as to dissuade me from stepping up to it. Which isn't to say it isn't out there . . . On the one hand, climbing a chipped route isn't going to change the fact that it is a chipped route. But on the other hand, climbing a chipped route is, in effect, condoning the act of chipping in the first place. It becomes a (difficult) question of the ends justifying the means.
  12. how/why do you choose what you climb?

    Perhaps personal ethics are defined as much by what you won't climb as by what you will . . . Is there a line which you absolutely will not cross, regardless of a climb's recommendations, stars, popularity, or aesthetic appeal?
  13. What're Ya Reading Now?

    Voters' Pamphlet -- Volumes 1 & 2 I'm sensing a liberal bias as evidenced by their use of the term pamphlet . . .
  14. Poll: Making noise at the Grasslands

    In all fairness, they should have also informed the bugling elk of the official regulations. Damn, they were loud!
  15. Smith Carnival

    Thought that was Jim Bridwell I passed in the parking lot. Ah yes, the carnival . . . that explains it!
  16. Smith Roll Call!!

    Thought that was you! I would have stayed and chatted, but I'd already been subjected to so much nonstop senseless chatter in the area that I just had to get out of there. My favorite was when the guy said, "Those guys ahead of us are moving really slow, but we'll be moving at a pretty good clip." We then climbed our route, came back down Misery Ridge, and I swear those same two guys were still in the same exact place talking about the same damn thing! Peking was good, especially that first pitch. I caught the leader ahead of you on Moscow at the top of the 2nd pitch -- he asked if I knew where the rap anchors were and I politely suggested he do the walk off, at which point they brought up their trail line and carried it the rest of the way. I was looking out for you!
  17. Smith Roll Call!!

    Hey Chelle ~ Were you over at Red Wall on Sunday going up Moscow to give a couple of newbie guys a tongue lashing for trailing a rope?
  18. Red Rocks - Grade IV

    An opportunity has crossed my path and I have a few questions and concerns . . . 1. What exactly is a Grade IV route? 2. What are the Grade IV routes at Red Rocks? 3. How feasible is it to do two Grade IV routes in Red Rocks over the course of a weekend?
  19. [TR] Dragontail - - Backbone 8/21/2004

    Mr. Radon & JDog -- Ryland and I were the party you passed on the hike in. We arrived behind a party on Serpentine Arete, who were likely the ones you speak of summiting Dragontail. I was about a third of the way up the route, sitting on a ledge, looking at the weather, contemplating the fact that above that point (the tree line) the only way down was to go up when a sudden gale of cold wind and a few rain drops hit me -- I took it as a sign, listened to intuition, and we decided to bail. The rain hit with force soon after we reached the base of the climb and were making our way down the scree. For us, it was the right decision -- climbing in the rain is never appealing, nor is a bivy without proper gear (a helmet, rain shell, and helmet only go so far) in the freezing rain throughout the night. I was hoping you two were out of harm's way when I looked up and saw the entire top third of the mountain engulfed by weather! Glad you made it out okay. Impressive work and determination -- that's one hell of a long day!
  20. Paul Hamm

    The judging was crazy from beginning to end: giving the exact same score to four people in a row, refusing to award a perfect score, not rewarding gymnasts who pushed the envelope, changing scores, and on and on -- the scoring seemed almost arbitrary! I was impressed by Alexi Nemov's decorum, tact, and respect following his highbar routine.
  21. Red Rocks - Grade IV

    Thanks for the info! My invite to Red Rocks is from someone who knows the area and asked me along with the specific goal of doing two grade IV routes in a weekend. Having never been there, I thought it would be a good idea to see what I was looking at before committing to the trip. It sounds like the main issues are approaches, route finding, and getting out before the gates close. On the bright side, it seems like the goal is a definite possibility!
  22. favorite bumper stickers of all time?

    The problems in this world will not be solved by the minds that created them.
  23. Jessica wants to become a cc.com chica too!

    Yeah, she might be able to do a Prana top justice.
  24. Girly climbing attire and other LEGITIMATE ?'s

    Not sure if you're trying too hard, or hardly trying?