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AaronB

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Everything posted by AaronB

  1. I have a Black Diamond Eldorado for sale. It has been used only a few times, and is in excellent condition. $300 email me ajbailey555@gmail.com
  2. I have a pair of never worn, new in box, size 48 Baruntse. $400. I am also willing to trade for a size 49. Email me ajbailey555@gmail
  3. Hey All. Selling off some delightful Aid and non aid gear. Good stuff. Hauling setup: Petzl Pro Traxion (used once) Black Diamond Rotor Swivel (never used) Brand new 7mm 35' lower-out bag line Complete set offset x4 Cams Off set superlight rocks A lot of pins, hooks, rivet hangers, etc. Yates wall ladders C3 000 and 00 I put them up on Craigslist http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/5441286474.html Craigslist add for wonderful and amazing aid gear
  4. Sold

    Anyone headed to the valley for Rocktober? I have a Black Diamond Cliff Cabana double ledge (used once, and I mean literally one night), and a never used fly with pole to go with it. Both for $550. (Retail for both is $1000) email me at: ajbailey555@yahoo.com
  5. Climb: Yosemite Valley-Various Crags Date of Climb: 4/23/2004 Trip Report: The trip was pretty last minute. I decided to go and just went. I had one reply from someone in Boise, ID. I drove down from Spokane to pick him up on Friday. We got to Yosemite on Saturday after I displayed amazing endurance in eathing 54 pieces of sushi at an "all you can eat" sushi bar in Reno. We got there pretty late so no climbing on Saturday. I was very anxious to get down to it on Sunday though. To my dismay my partner was much less enthusiastic. It took much coaxing to get him to accompany me on some rock climbing?? WTF were we down there for? While packing for the climb, I noticed his pack was incredibly small.. That was because he only had a harness and shoes.. Uh Oh.. a little communication error's on the phone. He forgot his rope I Guess and didn't really have any other gear. No worries, off we went. We warmed up on after 7 to finish the crag on after 6. We did the first pitch of nutcracker, then went to Sunnyside bench. We did the two short pitches of the Jamcrack. I felt strong enough to lead Lazy Bum, a easier 10c or 10d, not sure.. But I kept popping at the crux. I had 2 bomber nuts in though. I didn't feel too secure in my belay though.. Since I fell 3 different times trying to top it out.. and everytime I fell at the same spot, but ended up about 7 feet away from the prior landing spot? We ended the day there. Next day was even harder to get Jared going. He kept wanting to go on a hike. Eventually we got going and did Bishops Terrace. The whole time he didn't look like he was having any fun.. WTF it was the coolest 5.8 I've ever done. I managed to get him to be my belay slave at the base of el cap, he didn't even want to follow.At this point I had the talk with him, and told him I would find a new partner, and he could go on his hikes.. He wasn't disapointed at all.. I was though. But shortly after I posted a note on the bullutin board, I got a response. I settled into a bottle of Tequilla with this guy and we decided to do Son's of Yesterday. I was very excited, I had to bail on this route 8 years ago, and was happy to see if my cam was still there "ya fukin right". Anyways.. the bottle of Tequilla emptied quickly, so I broke out a bottle of Port.. Somehow, I managed to find my sleeping bag and passed out. I woke early to search out my new partner, ignoring the ache in my head. I couldn't find him anywhere. I went to the camp4 bathroom to do my buisness, and heard the most awefull sounds coming out of a stall. I almost called YOSAR to help put this poor soul out of his misery. It was coming out of both ends by the sounds of it. I was super frightened, it might be someone dying of EBOLA and ran for it. About 10 minutes later, watching from a safe distance, I gazed at the pitiful soul coming from the bathroom.. OH SHIT! It was my new partner! I guess the Shitty Mezcal, and Australian Port didn't go to well with his system. I was once again Fucked. I pacified myself with the comfort that I didn't feel like that guy. I left eary from the Valley, drove straight through for 22 hours.. and got home just to find out I work 2 11 hour nights in a row at the bar, and get to do it all over again! Who's not working this week! Here Is Jared the lazy hippie following Bishops Terrace Gear Notes: Don't forget Sunblock, The village store only had this gel stuff for "Scuba Diving?" Approach Notes: Tioga pass will open May 15th? Or just a rumour?
  6. These are assorted sized and come with a V-Thread tool and an OR screw holder. Everything for $150
  7. I have a used set of metolius TCUs for sale. 100$ for the set of 6
  8. Hey all. I have a never used double ledge for sale. Black Diamond Cliff Cabana. Bought it new in May and only set it up once in the park. $430
  9. Bump! Don't make me put this eBay! ajbailey555 at gmail
  10. NR Baker Conditions

    What are people's thoughts on NR Baker conditions right now?
  11. NR Baker Conditions

    I'm looking for real beta. Anyone been up there this weekend? Road opened Friday?
  12. Trip: Dragontail - Backbone Ridge Date: 9/1/2013 Trip Report: I've known Oleg for years but have never climbed with him. It turned out to be a treat. We met at Colchuck lake for dinner and whiskey around 5pm on Saturday. Woke up a little after 530am and were hiking by 630. We both were feeling the whiskey and no joke brought 8 liters of water! We brought our gear and planned on a bivy around the summit or back at the lake. The climbing was very straightforward for the most part and on very clean secure rock. He had already led the offwidth on a prior trip and let me have that lead. I was surprised that it wasn't that hard. It was strenuous, but very straightforward and secure. We brought two number 5 cams and a number 6 so I didn't have to move the cams up very much and could climb past them as the pitch isn't that long. I didn't feel run out. The pack was very heavy with all the water so we tried to drink as much as possible. It felt weird not to ration and actually have too much water and food. We kept eating and drinking and it almost felt like cragging over alpine. The climbing is relaxing and enjoyable with no really hard moves. We did notice several bivy spots along the way, with some awesome ones on top of backbone ridge. Getting to the fin, it looked mostly blank from below. I didn't really have any beta on the climb and Oleg left the pictures and descriptions in the car. We kind of guessed where to start climbing and it was so good. I really can't describe how enjoyable the pitches were with such great exposure and afternoon sun. The last pitch to the top of the fin felt run out as we used the #5 cams for the belay. So it was a runnout foot traverse with great exposure. We did have one very sketchy rappel off the mountain. We went down to the East on the descent since we only had tennis shoes and wanted to avoid the steep snow. The first single rappel was straightforward, but the second was sketchy. It barely covered a tiny horn (if you could call it that). I am a lot bigger so I went first with Oleg keeping an eye on it. We backed it up with two cams in case it popped. Unfortunately it went on an overhang and ended up being 12 feet too short to a big ledge. I placed a cam and did the crazy bounce testing to see if the rappel would fail for oleg. It held and I let the ends go through the rope and was able to reach a place to downclimb. We then made another rappel to the snow and descended to a good bivy site. Great climb and great partner. Here are some photos. This is me towards the top of the offwidth Oleg on the pitch above it. The great bivy spots on top of the BB Me on the fin somewhere low Oleg on the second to last pitch Oleg at his belay Looking down on Oleg from the top of the fin Gear Notes: You don't need two #5's but what the hell right? And #6 8 Liters of water double cams to .4 to #3 with some small stuff too 10 alpine draws and 3 doubles 2 hangovers
  13. Trip: Torment Forbidden Traverse - TFT Date: 7/13/2013 Trip Report: Left the car Saturday morning with perfect weather which continued the entire climb. I did this route 9 years ago and climbed torment via the SE face.. I wish I had done that this time. We chose to climb the gully and spent hours and hours fooling around on the SW face. We climbed way too high and had to rap down to the SE face anyway to access the ledges to the col for the start of the traverse. My recommendation is to just go straight up the SE face.. so much less of a hassle. And route finding is much more straight forward. The route was in great shape and the snow was perfect styrofoam. It was really secure. We bivied on a small ledge just before the 2nd and steep snow traverse as we wasted so much time on Torment (we also skipped bagging the summit). The bivy was beautiful but we had a stove malfunction and ended up not getting a hot dinner and having only 2 liters of water total melted (couldn't find a drip). That and my thermarest popped in the first 5 minutes of sleep. Ouch! The snow the next morning was icy and very secure. We didn't bring pickets but the snow would have been easily protected with them. The ridge was just as exposed and memorable as I remember with great views. We were a little tired and thirsty (no coffee or oatmeal) and only 1 liter of water each for the day. When we got to Forbidden col we counted 13 people on the west ridge and decided to bail as we have both done the W Ridge before and I was cranky thirsty. We rapped the gully in super speed time and raced to the the first water we found and OMG it tasted so good. Great fun and great partner. Did experience some nasty rock fall and took a big hit on my thigh ripping my pants and skin a little.. but mostly just a big bruise. Careful! Snow was perfect and no need to bypass. Overall we just needed to figure out a better system for simul climbing. We experienced too much rope drag. If I did it again, I think I'd just take a 60m half rope and half it so we would have only 30m between us. I'd be interested to hear thoughts on that? We were moving too slow I felt and was a little bummed not to join the clusterf*** of people on the W. Ridge of Forbidden. Oh, and don't count on drips. I don't remember the first traverse being this steep, maybe the camera angle? Gear Notes: 7 cams .4 to #2 with doubles of .75 and 1, 9 nuts (5-12 with a double of lucky 7) ice axe and extra tool (helpful but not essential) 17 single slings and 5 doubles only need one rope.. Approach Notes: Boston Basin
  14. Goatboy, I seem to remember running into you on the w ridge of forbidden the last time I did the traverse. (9 years ago?)You had just climbed the e ridge direct. The rope on the snow was sort of phycological protection. My partner didn't have much experience on steeper snow and wanted to be roped in. It gave her more confidence with the idea she would have a belay for the last 200 feet. Basically seemed worth the risk for her to feel more confident. That and I already had a 60m rope in my pack most of the climb after trying to manage two ropes the first day. Didn't feel like squeezing another in . Also, I feel these pictures make it look steeper than it really is? Good for making us look cool, but bad for beta. Almost all the rockfall was climber caused including the big guy that nailed me and tore my precious pants. There is a nasty loose section as you are climbing to gain the ridge after the second snow traverse.
  15. Saw a giant snaffle sitting on my helmet 4 inches from my face. I blew him a kiss goodnight and let him have his way with my stuff. I didn't notice any damage or missing food. Maybe your battle scared the future generations into submission. The stove fiasco involved what I think was screwing on the canister with the valve on and not noticing it. By the time it was noticed, the fuel was desperately low. Just enough for 3 liters of water. Rookie mistake. Climbing sans water while surrounded by snow is pretty annoying. No coffee = depressing.
  16. Climbing Partner Needed!

    I've climbed with mountainmb and vouch for an awesome experience. Be fit though because she will kick your ass on those car to cars and drink all your beer before you are halfway down.
  17. Just bought this pack in June for a trip and would prefer to never see it again. Great pack, no rips and still in new condition. I don't want it. I would consider a trade, but cash would be better unless your trade cost $350 a month ago. Thanks! Aaron 206-979-1982 Oh, and I'm in Seattle. Green Lake/Wallingford area. http://www.mountainhardwear.com/BMG™-105/OU4059,default,pd.html
  18. We got back from climbing around 4am and slept until 730am. Somehow one of our helmets got picked up in that time span. A purple black diamond helmet that looked pretty new. The only people to leave during that time were two guys that arrived at the hut at 230am from Paradise to do the climb in a push, but were deterred by the winds. They crashed down below where we were in the shelter and left at 6am to go back down. Are you one of those guys? Did you grab a helmet? Accident or not, uncool to wake up to find it missing. We weren't done climbing.. Please return it.
  19. Hey there, at what level did you encounter snow on the approach? Thanks!
  20. I have 2 black diamond Shrike Ice tools for sale with Grivel leashes $160 takes both. Grivel 12 point 2f crampons with antibots $70. Mountain Hardware subzero down jacket large with stuff bag $40. GoreTex Burton AK Shell large $40.
  21. Looking to do something tomorrow (Wednesday) NR Baker? Leavenworth Rock? Email me: ajbailey555@gmail.com I'm free until 5pm on Thursday.
  22. Squamish Tomorrow 8/19

    I'm going to be up there tomorrow and would like a partner.
  23. Climbing road trip

    I'm job free and have some new rock toys that I'm anxious to put to use. Thinking City of Rocks for a few days and then to the Tetons. I could be convinced to do something else too if you have a good idea. You don't need to be a rockstar as I'm not, just try not to drink all the beer, and shit at every belay (unless you have IBS and then I am sorry). However I've heard that if you do have IBS you can get a prescription for Medical Marijuana now. Hey Hey! Not so bad after all!
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