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Bill_Simpkins

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Everything posted by Bill_Simpkins

  1. Heh. His rolled up jacket rolled way down the hill through the woods, he was getting it back. I left what he was actually doing to the imagination. I can see where your imagination led you
  2. I love Erie. Nice views and sometimes better weather than Bellingham. Orange Wall, Powerlines, Snag Buttress and I even like Sunset Slabs. I could hang out there all day and just lay on the rocks.
  3. I figured there isn't much video of this area, so me and my friend dug up some old video tape of our trip from 2003 and made a quick edit. There is a good shot of that sweet wall on the approach hike. Enjoy.
  4. Once we took the road on the west side then followed a trail at the end of the 2nd switchback which turned into a major schwackfest. It was the most brutal schwacking I've ever done. We then took large talus to Steinbok and easier ground up to the col, then ascended the slabs to the top. Was a really long day of mostly brush. I'd reccommend getting to the old growth as fast as possible via Dru's way.
  5. It is getting too crowded up there on the weekends. It can be hard to find a place to stay sometimes without reservations. Need an easier way than walking to get from the bars to the campground at 2 am when I put down a few more than I should have. They should put up those pay telescopes in the parking lots so tourists(and climbers) can watch people on the Chief. All the Chief hikers and pad people walk on the road. There should be a path on the cliff side of the road from the highway to the Chief trailhead. More bathrooms. They also need a public bathroom over by the Starbucks.
  6. The glacier travel is minimal. The glacier is really mellow and almost flat everywhere. Steep snow on Colonial and a couple "steepish" slopes between the glacier and summit on Pyramid and the Stump. On Pyramid, no ropes needed for the walk up route. Ice ax(for sure) and crampons(if icy) this time of year. Stash some tennis shoes at the end of the approach ridge(before you drop down the gully) for the hike out. You'll thank me later. The crux of that whole trip is the approach!!! Water might be scarse between the lake and the glacier. Oh, BTW. The best approach this time of year is to go all the way to lake and take a trail (one on left of lake and one on right), to get to the top of the ridge. Follow the steep trail on the top of the ridge(no water, I'd save two liters for the ridge, 3 if camping on it) all the way to just before the ridge end (you can bypass some of the humps on trails on the right). On the last little hump at the ridge end, there is a gully that traverses down and left(rock on the right, trees on the left). This will take you to slopes leading up to the glacier. There is usually running water where the glacier starts.
  7. Ideally, lead it. I don't mean to sound like a smartass(I do my fair share of top ropes), but a setup like is most likely designed to be lead and rapped from. Now realistically, sometimes you can clip underneathe the chains on the bolt(vs on top) and the biner fits in a lot nicer.
  8. 1. Depends on the road. Some roads really serve a purpose, some are just leftovers from a different era. If an entire area is cut off when a road is decommissioned, I'm not really for it, but if there are other roads going to the general area, I don't mind so much. 2. I love remote areas, but I hate to see a really useful road go. My father is too old to hike long distances and his only real enjoyment is driving these old roads. 3. More hiking. More of a hassle to get out (may have to take time from work etc ...). Good luck.
  9. Larrabee Whistler Peak(Rainy Pass) Pugh Hadley Wallabee (sp?) Needle Peak (BC) Lady Peak (BC)
  10. You are right Matt. What I said is what works for me. It's up to each person to decide what works for them.
  11. You should try it sometime. It's kind of like blended raw oysters.
  12. I get bored when I go out sometimes. I think I would rather be at home watching TV. When I'm at home watching TV, I'd rather be out climbing. Sometimes climbing feels like going to work, it's the days it feels like a vacation that make it worth while to take the chance and find out.
  13. It's not up in the meadows, but the East Bank trail of Ross lake is a good one.
  14. That is a real nice hike. The wind damage to the forest is amazing (just before hitting the lake).
  15. I'm amazed how much time the road "improvement" saves.
  16. We were wondering where you were. we didn't hear a peep from you guys after you passed us by the creek.
  17. It is scary and yet strangely satifiying, even on an easy climb when you have a section without really any positive holds and just friction or something. I don't do it to show off or anything. I usually do it because I don't have a partner or I don't want to spend 30 minutes messing with all the gear to do a 1 minute route. I mean, you can get up the route before the rope is flaked out.
  18. Scramble, no hardware, one day: A pack over 15 pounds has stuff you don't need in it. Glacier, overnight: A pack over 25 pounds has stuff you don't need in it. Rock, overnight: A pack over 35 pounds has stuff you don't need in it. A warm sleeping pad is VERY important. Use a 3/4 or 1/2 length. Use your rope and pack and put them under your head and feet. Store the pad inside your pack by rolling it up and letting it unravel inside. Stuff your sleeping bag (which is in a bivy sack) to the bottom (no stuff sack) then pack everything else on top. Try a frameless pack. The only things that should be outside your pack is: ice axe crampons(maybe) picket rope(maybe). Don't have a bunch of stuff dangling around. Relax and take a deep breath on the steep slopes, it will save you a lot of energy. Stressing out on the scary stuff is a huge energy drain. Learn how to hike properly. I see people walking on their toes up steep trails. Turn sideways(ish), relax and walk flat-footed. Take the toilet paper off the roll and roll it up and put in zip lock with other first aid stuff. Roll a foot or two of duct tape(over a single spot) up close to your handles on your poles. Good for first aid and repairs. Take a foot or so of floss for that beef jerky. Cheese lasts a few days in the pack. Quick easy snack. Most peaks in the Cascades can be done with sneakers after the Winter snow melts off. Usually when I leave the car at an alpine start I'm freezing my ass off in my t-shirt and my buddies have a bunch a crap on. 5 minutes later up the trail they are stopping for 10 minutes while they take everything off! Big waste of time. I've gotten by for 16 years without carrying a knife with me. It's up to you. A sharp rock, an ice axe or even my buddies knife has been enough. Take a cotton bandana to wipe off sweat. Synthetics suck at this. Bring a cloth to clean your glasses. Drink plenty of water. Most of the time that tired exhausing headachy feeling when you are driving back home is because you didn't drink enough water. There is always that person that takes forever to do things, like change clothes, drink water, set up a belay etc... Don't be that person. Tents suck unless someone else carries it. Use a bivy sack. If someone askes you to carry the rope or the tent, take the rope. You shouldn't have room for the tent anyways because you took the smallest pack possible. I don't filter or boil my water. Don't be stupid but don't be shy.
  19. I've tried this and they are slick. Bad idea. Cord is so lite anyways and cheaper. If your trying to pull your buddy out of a crack with that and it slips and they get hurt or die, you're going to feel really stupid.
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