Sphinx Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Good thing Dru is so reticent: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=214706&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1&vc=1 and again: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=217718&Forum=All_Forums&Words=357&Match=Username&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=217718&Search=true#Post217718 STFU Dru. Yeah, you climb some good routes, and spray far more than your share, so don't piss on other peoples' non-chest beating TRs. You suck. Eat ballz, asseyes. Stick it up your ass. As for the Picketeers: you guys rock! Nice job. Quote
skykilo Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Congratulations, guys. Isn't it hard to concentrate on other stuff? Quote
Dru Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 i will be at rope up in october for anyone who wants to bitch slap me Quote
Marko Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Other stuff???? You lost me. (Just kidding Cathi!) Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Congratulations all three of you. Wayne, now I am really, really looking forward to your upcoming slideshow. I can't wait. Quote
Lowell_Skoog Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Thanks for your note, Wayne. I appreciate your enthusiasm about the climb. If we were all having this conversation in person, there would probably not be any controversy. E-forums can be dangerous when people get excited. Your "detest" comment got me a little excited, and that's unfortunate. I really would like to congratulate you guys on envisioning and pulling off this climb. I made a list of potential ridge traverses in the Cascades a few years ago, and put the southern Pickets on it, but never really thought about it seriously. Reading your reports, and knowing the area, it sounds like about the coolest climbing outing I've heard of in the Cascades. Regarding modesty versus bravado, it is something any enthusiastic climber grapples with. If climbing was divorced from real life, maybe it wouldn't matter. But climbing is not divorced from the rest of life, and style counts in both worlds. I participate in a local paragliding mailing list, and there is venerable tradition in that community of the "gloat" post. It's an art form to make your friends green with envy with a "you shoulda been there" story. But there's a fine line between gloating (okay) and boasting (not okay). In essence, the difference is this: Gloat: It was awesome. Boast: I was awesome. Treading too close to this edge increases one's exposure to a leader fall. Quote
AlpineK Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Congratulations on your climb guys!!! Wayne, you are being overboastfull. Sorry, but your comments are over the top. JoshK you are one of the most negative posters on cc, So STFU Quote
Jens Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Wayne is the real deal. He's Mr. Solid as I found out on a previous attempt of the thing. Cut the guy some slack. He's psyched! Quote
Lizzy_Hawker Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 sweet climb but how about that suggestions of pics for those of us not in striking distance of the slide show ......?? Quote
Mtguide Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 I heartily concur with MattP's comment re "reticent hardmen".I've known Wayne for almost 13 years and have never known him to be other than completely open-handed and genuine,a straight shooter,always himself,and that includes ebullient and enthusiastic,as well as one hell of a climber.Wonderful accomplishment; raise the glass high,mates. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Sounds like a cool adventure. The bullshitters can fuck off. Would like to see the slides some time but you'll not catch me in church Quote
Marko Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Thanks y'all! Photos en route... Still smiling. Quote
Thrashador Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Yeeemotherbleepinghaaaa! Naysayers... How bouts a pdx slide show?!?! Combined with some TG that'd be one wicked bash. Quote
wayne Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 Thanks all ( Alp K too) I always seem to put my own foot too near my mouth .I apologize for relateing the route so much through me, poor style no doubt. Oh well. Please lets get over the Wayne stuff and focus on the important stuff. Most of my words are about the actual route. I would like to keep it that way, unless you would like to discuss the great set of partners that I had the honor to do this with, A better start to a career,I have never seen as I have with young Colin. Mark is one of the funniest people I have ever met. I couldnt wait to hear the next thing he said. Jens will deal with this route in great style given another chance at it. Dbb my apologies for the spot, you handle it much better than I would have. Everyone who put up with my obssesion with this thing. (especialy my best gal) So. back to the route.. There had to be others who thought of this . It is facinating to hear it. I couldnt talk about it as much as I wanted to. It was becoming the worst secret I ever tried to keep, I was simply too excited about it. It has got to be the the most amazing ridge line in the area..I always thought it was so obvious. With the Croft style traverses in style now. To absolutly stay on the " Ridge" would be a very hardcore way to do it. Unless time was spent drilling rehehsing etc. We tried to stay within a 20 degree circumfrence of the natural ridge feature. I havent got to into this " Travers vs. Enchainment "discussion . It is great how naturally the line leads you. On the unexplored parts it seemed like a classic line done hundreds of times before. Quote
Dru Posted July 30, 2003 Posted July 30, 2003 wayne1112 said: Thanks all ( Alp K too) I always seem to put my own foot too near my mouth .I apologize for relateing the route so much though me, poor style no doubt. Oh well. Please lets get over the Wayne stuff and focus on the important stuff. Most of my words are about the actual route. I would like to keep it that way, unless you would like to discuss the great set of partners that I had the honor to do this with, A better start to a career,I have never seen as I have with young Colin. Mark is one of the funniest people I have ever met. I couldnt wait to hear the next thing he said. Jens will deal with this route in great style given another chance at it. Dbb my apologies for the spot, you handle it much better than I would have. Everyone who put up with my obssesion with this thing. (especialy my best gal) So. back to the route.. There had to be others who thought of this . It is facinating to hear it. I couldnt talk about it as much as I wanted to. It was becoming the worst secret I ever tried to keep, I was simply too excited about it. It has got to be the the most amazing ridge line in the area..I always thought it was so obvious. With the Croft style traverses in style now. To absolutly stay on the " Ridge" would be a very hardcore way to do it. Unless time was spent drilling rehehsing etc. We tried to stay within a 20 degree circumfrence of the natural ridge feature. I havent got to into this " Travers vs. Enchainment "discussion . It is great how naturally the line leads you. On the unexplored parts it seemed like a classic line done hundreds of times before. well said Wayne Quote
AlpineK Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Way to go Wayne Let others, myself included, talk you up. Quote
TimL Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 congrats guys You guys rock! Way to finish an exciting project! Quote
Colin Posted July 31, 2003 Author Posted July 31, 2003 I posted some pictures up in the gallery: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?thumb=1&stype=2&si=Colin&cat=500&sort=1&ppuser=160 Only my second roll was scanned, so there aren't any pictures up yet from the first half of the climb. Quote
Billy Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Yea Wayne, way to go. I just gotta ask the question...was it as committing as the Turkey Monster? The Pickets rule! I'd love to hear the timeline on how it all went....you know, just to get an idea of how fast the second ascentionists need to move. Quote
wayne Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 The actual leads on the Monster are more serious, but at least you know whats ahead. What we did: Day 1: Hike in and do al the Macs, Seems big but not that bad with an early start. Day 2,Get over all peaks till you get over the blob. Good bivy on w. summit. Day 3: the only real issues are on E twin and Himml, interesting getting around to Frenz. Get out as far as you can. We bivvied in Crescent Basin. Day 4 Chopping block and over the barrier and out.I think it could be done in 1 less day , Maybe. It seems the issue is how many nights on the ridge? Fast, light team , Maybe 1 night on. The way out is long too. I would love to topo it . Sounds like alot of work though. Quote
dbb Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 wayne1112 said: Thanks all ( Alp K too) I always seem to put my own foot too near my mouth .I apologize for relateing the route so much through me, poor style no doubt. Oh well. Please lets get over the Wayne stuff and focus on the important stuff. Most of my words are about the actual route. I would like to keep it that way, unless you would like to discuss the great set of partners that I had the honor to do this with, A better start to a career,I have never seen as I have with young Colin. Mark is one of the funniest people I have ever met. I couldnt wait to hear the next thing he said. Jens will deal with this route in great style given another chance at it. Dbb my apologies for the spot, you handle it much better than I would have. Everyone who put up with my obssesion with this thing. (especialy my best gal) So. back to the route.. There had to be others who thought of this . It is facinating to hear it. I couldnt talk about it as much as I wanted to. It was becoming the worst secret I ever tried to keep, I was simply too excited about it. It has got to be the the most amazing ridge line in the area..I always thought it was so obvious. With the Croft style traverses in style now. To absolutly stay on the " Ridge" would be a very hardcore way to do it. Unless time was spent drilling rehehsing etc. We tried to stay within a 20 degree circumfrence of the natural ridge feature. I havent got to into this " Travers vs. Enchainment "discussion . It is great how naturally the line leads you. On the unexplored parts it seemed like a classic line done hundreds of times before. Thanks Wayne... Just glad you guys had fun and knocked that thing off thing, I got some good ridge climbing in that weekend anyhow. Nice freakin work! Quote
David_Parker Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Sorry if this is a little late or repetative; I've been gone a week. Having the priveledge to be the occaisional partner of Wayne I can say he is not a chestbeater and only guilty of being overly excited about sharing his successes with his friends. Since this is a climbers board and Wayne probably considers us all his friends, his report is not chestbeating. Chestbeating is telling someone who doesn't know much about what he just did how awesome it was. I'm sure Wayne's co-workers have no idea what he just did. If you're not impressed with this accomplishment, you too don't know much about what these 3 just did. It will be interesting to see when it will be repeated. I can venture to say it will be another local climber. The fact Wayne hooked up with Colin and Marko took away the liklihood of it happening soon as they were "racing" for it. This is not a climb where you just pick a time and fly in from out of town and wip it off. Many attempts will no less be made in the years to come, but it could potentially take on the same impressive stature similar to that of the original Ptarmigans route. In the years to come, I predict there will be many more failures than successes on this route. This is the Stanley Cup of the North Cascades; congrats to Colin, Marko and Wayne for the championship! And like the Stanley Cup, it still stands to be won by others, year after year. Who's gonna get it next? Quote
Jim Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Wow! This is inspiration - good trip report. This may even make me drive to Everett for the show. No problem with your description - you're obviously stoked over the acomplishment - you should be!! Congrats and keep it up. Quote
bunglehead Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 AWESOME TRIP. Hearty congrats to you guys on a very strong effort and amazing accomplishment. The trip pics are heady to look at, and simply inspiring. Wow. I don't know what else to say except again, congratulations. I would not be able to resist talking nonstop about something like this! Quote
Off_White Posted July 31, 2003 Posted July 31, 2003 Hey Wayne/Colin/Marko: Brilliant usage of the amazing solid weather pattern and a team of good climbers. I think the group photos in the gallery just emphasize what a giddy outing this was, kudos to all. What do you say to the idea of repeating the slideshow at Rope-up for those of us unlikely to make the earlier show? Quote
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