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Everything posted by skykilo

  1. Herman fatality?

    This is sad. I feel for his family.
  2. PDX Beer Run Trip Report

    That's amazing.
  3. Pipeline - Squamish Climbing

    Ditto to all of Marc's info. I did it with a #9 VG and it's the right size but cams like that can be prone to rotation and it's still a lot of distance with one piece of pro. Also, second the comment about Wild Turkey -- that is a classic and I will be much more likely to repeat it than Pipeline! And you can get good gear the whole way.
  4. Climb: Mt Shuksan-Price Glacier Couloir Date of Climb: 5/13/2004 Trip Report: Ben Kaufman and I climbed and skied Price Glacier Couloir yesterday. It provides the easiest bergschrund bypass route for the Price Glacier. We found a nice icy debris gully that made for easy climbing in the steep couloir next to Nooksack Tower. We found small amounts of powder on the glacier . Northeasterly exposures had a bit more slush wallowing after early sun and maybe wind deposits during the last storm. When we skied around 1pm, we were quite pleased to find perfect conditions everywhere, ranging from shallow-enough-slush to corn to powder. No sideslipping necessary, and we were able to scope a nice route down the gut of the glacier that still allowed us to exit from the notch below Nooksack Tower. This was an amazing ski descent, better than I would have hoped. Here is a route photo, the purple line is what I think Ben Manfredi and I skied last year after much study from every angle, and the red route is yesterday's pleasant romp. Gear Notes: Crampons, one tool, skis... Approach Notes: I don't know if there is a log to cross the river right now. We didn't look. Who would want to avoid a refreshing wade through ice cold water?
  5. Thanks, very nice. That put some new spots on my radar.
  6. Thanks for info. Facebook is lame as a public discussion forum -- why do they need my info so badly? Not that anybody cares what I think but here's my vote to have such a discussion somewhere like CascadeClimbers instead.
  7. Can somebody copy and paste or provide a different link? Facebook wants login.
  8. Accident on NF of Shuksan today?

    Very sad. RIP to a super nice guy and condolences to his family.
  9. Chad Kellogg gone

    This is really sad. My thoughts are also with Jens Holsten and Chad's friends and family.
  10. Usage at CC.com in decline

  11. Trip: West McMillan Spire - West Ridge Date: 1/28/2007 Trip Report: During an exploratory day-trip descent of Lost Marbles Couloir last Wednesday, it was hard not to notice that the Southern Picket Range was holding a lot of snow on the south side. Skiing a southern aspect near Hidden Lake Peaks later that same day, the snowpack was already in decent spring condition. The universe was coming into alignment for a weekend trip to the Pickets. Jason and Phil had another objective, but I convinced them to come with me. The prospect of a summit ski descent in the Southern Picket Range is hard to resist. We left Seattle at 3:30 am Saturday morning. Jason skis the trail so early in the morning. This part of the approach is much more pleasant without the all the greenery. We were delighted to be on skis from the gravel pit near Newhalem . The road to Goodell Campground, like so many others in the North Cascades, has a new washout from the November rains. It was lovely to ski the Goodell Creek Trail, which minimized our battles with blowdown and brush. The upper portion of the approach, making a rising traverse below the ridge, was much easier with the large snowpack. Dazzling views of T-Bone Ridge during our ascending traverse and comments from Phil had us contemplating the overwhelming sickness of a 6500 vf, 6-mile tram from Newhalem to the top of Big Devil Peak. It would be like a Washington version of Chamonix, with haute route access to Backbone Ridge and Marble Creek Cirque. Actually, I think I prefer the difficult access and its corresponding isolation and tranquility. Jason skins toward the notch with T-Bone Ridge in the background. Jim has been whispering in my ear about this 19 oz. bivy/down sleeping bag combo for a few months. This trip gave me the impetus to try it. I managed to squeeze everything in a tiny day pack. Somehow I didn't freeze at night, even with a breeze at 5,800'. The whiskey probably helped. Sure that the snow would need time to soften, we started after sunrise. It felt incredible to ski up a glacier in a t-shirt, wearing neither hat nor gloves. What a wonderful dose of spring in January! Jason was so happy that he even broke some trail. Jason skins Terror Glacier. The exposure increased exponentially as we climbed the ridge above the 7,400' col. The snow was alternating between soft and icy, depending on aspects and rockbands. We were able to link soft sections most of the way. A small rock step posed an obstacle to the summit ridge. Phil boots along the exposed summit ridge of West McMillan Spire. Jason on the summit in his t-shirt. This is where we started our ski descent. I wanted to check a possible alternate descent route. It looked like it might be easier, but it featured a much longer section of drastic exposure to the north face. Booting down it in my crampons, I found it much too rocky. The way I'd climbed would be best. I climbed my original line again. I removed my backpack to see how wide the snow was between the rocks. It was about a foot narrower than the length of my skis. Phil told me that Jason was snapping into his skis, so I returned to the summit. Phil downclimbed to just below the bulge, where the slope turned into nice corn. Jason was ready to go and he'd had enough of the exposure, so I told him to be careful and snapped a photo. Jason skis on the summit ridge of West McMillan Spire. Fall: 1,000' cliff on the left or 2,500' cliff on the right? Jason's skis were just short enough for him to sidestep through the bulge on snow until he could point them into the corn. Hooray for Jason. I kept my ice ax in my upper (left) hand and sidestepped down a few rocks. Below the bulge, I stowed the ax and enjoyed the exposure. Inspiration, Pyramid, Degenhardt, Baker, Terror, Shuksan! Jason tele-attacks The Mt Fury. Jason skis near the col. The south-facing slopes down to the 5,400' outlet of the deeply-gorged lake were a sticky, creamy corn. Somehow, the snow didn't get too mushy for the skin to camp. We took a long break to ogle, hoot, holler, eat, and pack camp. How could it be so good? I'm very happy and high on coffee and adrenaline and I can't wait to see Jason's photos. Thanks for the great times, Lefty and Fatboy. Enjoy! Gear Notes: Try not to take any; it helps. Approach Notes: Thank you maritime snow gods!
  12. Site Slowness and Problems

  13. Cool. I should go ski that one of these years. It's not that far from here and it's on my way to A$$pen (if Independence Pass is open). It would be a slightly longer drive but there's better alpine climbing near Crestone on Kit Carson, Crestone Peak or Crestone Needle if you're looking for a more technical experience on more rugged 14ers (when RMNP is closed).
  14. Multi day ski mountaineering packs

    Whichever one didn't piss you off most recently. In my experience, no matter how much I like a pack for multi-day ski trips initially, eventually I will hate it. Is it big enough to hold everything you might want? Then it's too big to ski well. Is it small enough to ski well? Then it will be annoying packing or unpacking it. It will probably even explode somewhere when you overstuff it for the umpteenth time. I usually like them best after one or two trips. So a pack that's been tested by only one or two trips. The Wild Things Ice Sac was probably my most enduring favorite for a few years there.
  15. quiver killers?

    I also like to tap by hand on a lathe or a five-axis milling machine. But I've never done that with my skis.
  16. [TR] Squamish BC - Polaris 8/6/2008

    Epic route with great variety! That little stub in the crack on the 4th pitch is now far from confidence inspiring, at least for me. I didn't even consider putting a sling on it. It doesn't look nearly as good as in your photo and I shuddered as I stood on it. Whoever made the comments: these guys did not bolt it into submission! I found the bolts to be quite judicious and commendable. I wish the first two pitches and particularly the second pitch weren't so moist but such is life at Squamish.
  17. Looks like a fun trip! Is this a case of confusion between Friend sizes and Camalot sizes? I've certainly made that mistake.
  18. Open source alpinism

    Great idea, Joseph: National Sport Climbing Day! Te he he.
  19. 2012 Top 5

    I never would have anticipated such a sweet year of climbing. *Needles: Atlantis and Romantic Warrior with Ross *Black Canyon: Astrodog with Layton *Moab: a post-Thanksgiving four-day feast: Jah Man, Fine Jade, Three Penguins & Washer Woman *Sandias: tough call between Wizard of Air and Voodoo Child on Torreon, both so good *Squamish: sampling the Calling and Tantalus Wall with Wehrly Good times, many thanks to all who shared them.
  20. Attempting to start a blog...

    Oh yeah, I wondered about those ropes when I saw them.
  21. New forum look

    Go ahead and get an attitude about it, but it does in fact suck to deal with IE when designing web pages. Over the years they have often rendered standards-compliant markup into unseemly web pages, whereas the other browsers render standards compliant markup much better. It is a real nuisance when the rules to the game get changed. Sure, IE is a large share of the browser market; it's just too bad they don't adhere to the standards as well as others.
  22. Theme Photo Post, Post Your Pics

    Enough of this alpine nonsense; how about sporty moves on a mono?
  23. DMM Offsets

    I use #2 and #3 while free climbing on basalt and granite. If the placement is good then 6 kN seems like plenty of strength to me. The #3 has definitely caught falls. I regularly carry #2 brass through #9 or 10 offset.
  24. Debunk this.

    There's no way anybody on this website has a PhD. PhD people don't even know about the internet.
  25. Staying Dry

    All of New Mexico is dry and sunny with perfect sending temps right now and for the foreseeable future!