[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019

[tanstaafl]

Trip: Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+

Trip Date: 08/15/2019

Trip Report:

 

Got out Friday on this new(ish) Nelson/Whitelaw route; if you're looking for a quick alpine hit you should give it a try. 

 

To find the start, go past the SW Face trad route and continue a short distance to a low angle corner with bolts.  Easy to find.

The route is generously bolted, no need for gear.  It's seven 30m pitches -- we combined 6&7 and you could easily combine 3&4 as well, but I think running 1&2 together would give you some unpleasant rope drag.  I skipped or unclipped a couple of bolts on P2 and still had a little drag at the end of the pitch.  P5 is the crux.  Rap the route with a 60 or downclimb the South Face and circle back around for your gear.

Fun day out and as I'm told "it's a good training route for anything on Hozomeen."

We ran into Jake the Brit as we were downclimbing the South Face, he said I should post a TR and he'd nag Whitelaw for a topo.  You really don't need one though, just follow the bolts.

 

Action shot looking down P2:

 

Gear Notes:
13 draws, rope

Approach Notes:
the usual

Edited August 20, 2019 by tanstaafl
typo

[CPesci]

Any topo or route information on this route? 

[Bronco]

On 8/20/2019 at 7:48 AM, tanstaafl said:

"it's a good training route for anything on Hozomeen."

Is this supposed to be an endorsement?

[tanstaafl]

yeah, that made me laugh too when Nelson said that.  Now that I've done it, I'm totally ready for Hozomeen!

CPesci, you really don't need any info that's not in my original post to do the route -- find the start by continuing on past the SW Face trad route to a low angle corner with bolts, then follow the bolts. You're not going to get lost on it, unless you're highly skilled at not seeing bolts!  But if it helps, the bolt count is as follows:  P1 6 bolts. P2-13. P3-5. P4-7. P5-9. P6-5. P7-1.  

 

 

[CPesci]

Tanstaafl, Thanks for the info!

[Woodcutter]

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm good post Taanstafil. It was very nice to see you & dude.

Jim has a splendid topo that Mr Whitelaw drew. Where's that topo Jim?

Jake das Brit.

[pms]

Dave says topo's are aid. Good times up there Mr. Evans. A real treat for me to hang with, and watch David (the tooth fairy) Whitelaw at work. 

[tanstaafl]

Nice pics -- Whitelaw kind of looks like an action figure in that second shot. 

[JasonG]

DAMN.  So....many....Legends.  All in one spot.  CC.com lives!

[JasonG]

On 8/21/2019 at 10:14 AM, tanstaafl said:

I'm totally ready for Hozomeen!

You are, at least by the "standard" routes (is anybody ever ready for @rat and @lunger routes?  Are even they?).  Both summits are worthy and should get more attention, if only to get away from the IG masses.

[tanstaafl]

Yeah, but now that we know the Zorro Face is a mere 5.9, can any self-respecting climber just do the standard route?

 

 

[JasonG]

 I lost respect for my climbing ability many years ago.

[emauksch]

Long time lurker, but figured I'd respond to this since I don't think this thing gets climbed that much. Thank you to the developers on this!

Climbed Tooth Fairy this morning and was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the climbing! Loose and lichen-y, but neither as loose nor as covered in lichen as I had expected.

[ivan]

of all the trip reports i've read, this is one of them!!!

[bigeo]

Muy bueno. Muchas gracias Senores!

[Szyjakowski]

Awesomesauce!

looks and sounds like fun... it also sounds like a topo could really add to the adventure. I thought Whitelaw liked making topo maps?

 

[dberdinka]

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[bigeo]

Not that helpful Mr Berdinka, since it only gets you partway through pitch 5. Did you even climb/finish the route?

[Szyjakowski]

Thanks @dberdinka. That too is exactly what I mean- adds to the adventure.

[curtveld]

Actually, Darin is just reposting the topo he made for Mile High Club....

[Mikekindofabaddaddavies]

Had an Absolute blast on this route yesterday. Could see from baker to mt Adams, what a treat.   Super fun, consistent climbing, plum repelling. We tied pitches 2-3,4-5, and 6,7.   A few loose blocks on some of the roofier moves, but all and all a fantastic stress free day out.     

Moderate, bolted, alpine climbs, humans love those!

[Otto]

Thanks for the report, tanstaafl, this must be done soon.

And the thread includes a topo, cool!

[DPS]

Has anyone taken a serious look at the SE Buttress of the Tooth?  I've looked at it long and hard for a route over the years and have not seen any obvious crack or dihedral systems.  The roofs on the East Face would tend to push one towards the South Face, but perhaps there is a line to be had on the crest of the SE Buttress if it were protected with bolts/thin pitons? 

[Grant789]

Went up there yesterday. Great climb and thanks to the developers.

Some thoughts:

Very well bolted and not as dirty as I expected. 5.9 felt like an appropriate grade. 

The approach in the early season was a bitch interesting. Jump down into the moat between the snow and rock and scramble over to the start.

Pitch 2: Took a second to figure out where it was going after shifting left to get on the top of the face. Keep gaining the ledges, going east along the top of the face, cant see some of the bolts while climbing below, but they are there.   

Pitch 3: is missing a hanger on the second bolt, felt like 5.7 with some lichen.

Pitch 5: A loose block to gain the first roof.

Pitch 7: Took some searching to find the single bolt.  Look to the right for a left facing dihedral/block that goes up to the summit. Couldn't find anchors/chains on the summit for the life of me, but it is relatively easy to downclimb/scramble. I used a #0.4 and #0.5 C4 and slung a rock to make an anchor.

 

Great views all around, good holds, fun climb.

Edited June 19, 2020 by Grant789

[Michael Telstad]

I rope soloed this a few months ago. Due to the impossibility of rope drag in the solo system I was able to link pitches and do the whole route in 3 long pitches and some soloing to the top. I can't speak for the first 20 feet as it was under snow, but the rest of the route was pretty quality. The crux was running with water but there were enough good holds to make it totally manageable.  Raps are straightforward. The skiing in and out was bad...