bigeo

Pretending you"re Ueli Steck seems like a bad idea.

You guys nailed it. Nice work!

To paraphrase a saying commonly (but probably erroneously) attributed to Mark Twain: Ice climbing is a good winter hike spoiled.

Strong work lads! While it seems like you had things well in hand, second guessing your decisions, even after a successful outing, will help to make your alpine careers long and productive.

I've been thinking the same thing. PMed you.

Not that helpful Mr Berdinka, since it only gets you partway through pitch 5. Did you even climb/finish the route?

Buy that pass. https://cliffmass.blogspot.com

Muy bueno. Muchas gracias Senores!

"If" I don't profess to know and was making a point about risk in general versus risk on the individual level.

If the objective danger hasn't changed over time, then the risk to a given individual/party isn't greater simply because more people are climbing the route (other than the risks imposed by those sharing the route with you).

This brings up a question that I have long wondered about. I have been carrying snow "flukes" rather than pickets since I was a teenager climbing with my dad. They are a lot less awkward to carry and, based on intuition, l believe they have greater holding power in a wider variety of snow conditions. I have weighted them when set as an anchor, but never subjected one to a fall-type load. Does anyone have experience or know of any testing that indicates how flukes stack up against pickets? Found this, but it doesn't really answer the question: https://www.msrgear.com/blog/gear-archives-diving-deep-evolution-msr-snow-fluke/ and there's this:

Having eyed the flows above Melakawa Lakes while doing the Chair Pk circumnav on multiple occasions, I would say they form often, if not every winter. I believed they would offer some fun climbing, but, being a bit long in approach for a day trip in the short daylight hours of winter, and the prospect of hauling camping gear and ice climbing kit seeming like excessive effort, I contented myself with admiring them as I skinned by. I might have to reconsider. Hats off to you guys for getting after it.

bump for more books

This weather isn't much good for getting into the mountains. It's a good time to read/plan/dream about exploits to come. I have several decades worth of collected climbing "literature" to unload. Make an offer on anything that strikes your fancy. The more you buy, the better price you're gonna get. Will ship for cost. A few books that are either rare or current I'm going to hold out for $$. Smith Rock Guide $20 Red Rocks Guide $50 Waterfall Ice make an offer (lowest price on Amazon is $360!) And for something totally amazing: Every issue of Off Belay magazine (Jan. 1972 - February 1981) plus a few duplicates. Good condition, with a hint of mustiness to insure authenticity make an offer I will ship for cost. Prefer Venmo for payment. I live in Edmonds and you can pick up at my house.

Andreu, sent you a PM